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Under Montserrat's volcano Under Montserrat's volcano
(1 day later)
By Orin Gordon BBC News, MontserratBy Orin Gordon BBC News, Montserrat
Twelve years ago, after lying dormant for centuries, the volcano on the island of Montserrat erupted. Two years later, two-thirds of the island was devastated by a further eruption. Now, over half of the population has left and those who remain still have much work to do to restore their country.Twelve years ago, after lying dormant for centuries, the volcano on the island of Montserrat erupted. Two years later, two-thirds of the island was devastated by a further eruption. Now, over half of the population has left and those who remain still have much work to do to restore their country.
Nineteen people were killed in 1997As the small propeller aircraft descended towards Montserrat's airstrip, Jasmine, sitting next to me, closed her eyes tightly and appeared to be saying a silent prayer.Nineteen people were killed in 1997As the small propeller aircraft descended towards Montserrat's airstrip, Jasmine, sitting next to me, closed her eyes tightly and appeared to be saying a silent prayer.
The plane touched down, none too gently, and immediately the pilot started braking because the runway - even for an aircraft that seats 19 people - is not that long.The plane touched down, none too gently, and immediately the pilot started braking because the runway - even for an aircraft that seats 19 people - is not that long.
A few days later I was looking down on the airport from one of Montserrat's highest hills. I had been taken there by the head of the local government, chief minister Lowell Lewis, who also puts in time as a medical doctor.A few days later I was looking down on the airport from one of Montserrat's highest hills. I had been taken there by the head of the local government, chief minister Lowell Lewis, who also puts in time as a medical doctor.
Dr Lewis does not do fancy chauffer-driven cars. He himself wrestled his old Toyota up the boulder-strewn road to the top of the hill. From there, a perfect view of the north, but also a full appreciation of the size of the task rebuilding the country.Dr Lewis does not do fancy chauffer-driven cars. He himself wrestled his old Toyota up the boulder-strewn road to the top of the hill. From there, a perfect view of the north, but also a full appreciation of the size of the task rebuilding the country.
There is on Montserrat an airport that would serve the island's needs perfectly. The problem is that it sits abandoned near the volcano in the evacuated zone in the south.There is on Montserrat an airport that would serve the island's needs perfectly. The problem is that it sits abandoned near the volcano in the evacuated zone in the south.
Those who remained have had to uproot families and livelihoodsThose who remained have had to uproot families and livelihoods
What was once the main harbour in the old capital Plymouth also lies deserted under volcanic dust and other debris.What was once the main harbour in the old capital Plymouth also lies deserted under volcanic dust and other debris.
The rough waters of the north make docking ships a tricky and even dangerous business and the ferry service from the nearby island of Antigua, which had been a lifeline with the patchy air service, no longer operates.The rough waters of the north make docking ships a tricky and even dangerous business and the ferry service from the nearby island of Antigua, which had been a lifeline with the patchy air service, no longer operates.
Flat land is scarce and the new airport is built on a low hill, the top of which has been flattened. But its size restricts the number of tourists, goods and material that can be brought into Montserrat.Flat land is scarce and the new airport is built on a low hill, the top of which has been flattened. But its size restricts the number of tourists, goods and material that can be brought into Montserrat.
The only way to lengthen the airstrip would be to build an elevated runway across a valley. That would take a lot of money. As would carving out a proper harbour in the safe zone.The only way to lengthen the airstrip would be to build an elevated runway across a valley. That would take a lot of money. As would carving out a proper harbour in the safe zone.
Moving awayMoving away
Before the eruption, Montserrat had been doing fine financially, the majority of its income coming from tourism.Before the eruption, Montserrat had been doing fine financially, the majority of its income coming from tourism.
Montserrat's capital, Plymouth, was covered in volcanic ashMontserrat's capital, Plymouth, was covered in volcanic ash
At that time most islanders lived in the south, which had tremendous views of one of the Caribbean's natural wonders, the Soufriere Hills volcano. But those majestic views came at a price. The steepness of it became clear once the sleeping giant awoke.At that time most islanders lived in the south, which had tremendous views of one of the Caribbean's natural wonders, the Soufriere Hills volcano. But those majestic views came at a price. The steepness of it became clear once the sleeping giant awoke.
After the eruption most of the original population left for Britain, the United States and other parts of the Caribbean. Those who remained had to uproot families and livelihoods, and restart in the part of the island designated safe for habitation.After the eruption most of the original population left for Britain, the United States and other parts of the Caribbean. Those who remained had to uproot families and livelihoods, and restart in the part of the island designated safe for habitation.
Daniel used to be a windsurfing instructor at one of Montserrat's upmarket hotels. Today he runs a restaurant with his English wife Margaret in the safe zone.Daniel used to be a windsurfing instructor at one of Montserrat's upmarket hotels. Today he runs a restaurant with his English wife Margaret in the safe zone.
The restaurant is in their living room. Danny is a prize fisherman and the sea is in his blood. If he is unhappy about not being on the beach, he does not show it.The restaurant is in their living room. Danny is a prize fisherman and the sea is in his blood. If he is unhappy about not being on the beach, he does not show it.
He is chatty and full of stories about the famous people he taught to windsurf in the old days.He is chatty and full of stories about the famous people he taught to windsurf in the old days.
He and his wife have had to move several times, when there have been flows from the volcano, so he understands the deep frustration others feel about having to start all over again.He and his wife have had to move several times, when there have been flows from the volcano, so he understands the deep frustration others feel about having to start all over again.
Overseas aidOverseas aid
Many people in Montserrat think that the authorities are too strict in interpreting the data that the scientists give to them and are far too cautious in deciding how much of the island should be designated unsafe.Many people in Montserrat think that the authorities are too strict in interpreting the data that the scientists give to them and are far too cautious in deciding how much of the island should be designated unsafe.
We have been living with this volcano for many years, they tell me, and there is no way - and here they mention one of the areas just inside the unsafe zone - there is no way that place is in danger.We have been living with this volcano for many years, they tell me, and there is no way - and here they mention one of the areas just inside the unsafe zone - there is no way that place is in danger.
Jasmine, whom I met on the plane, has taken advantage of her British citizenship to come to live in the UK.Jasmine, whom I met on the plane, has taken advantage of her British citizenship to come to live in the UK.
But when it comes to the question of how much the mother country is doing to help, many of those back in Montserrat feel that Britain can do far more than they have done so far.But when it comes to the question of how much the mother country is doing to help, many of those back in Montserrat feel that Britain can do far more than they have done so far.
"Montserrat can pay its own way," Dr Lewis told me. But first they need the money to pay for the things - a bigger airport and a new harbour for a start - that will give them a fighting chance. It will cost about $200m (£100m)."Montserrat can pay its own way," Dr Lewis told me. But first they need the money to pay for the things - a bigger airport and a new harbour for a start - that will give them a fighting chance. It will cost about $200m (£100m).
Debra Barnes Jones, who has just finished her tour of duty as governor, told me much of that money will have to come from private sector investment.Debra Barnes Jones, who has just finished her tour of duty as governor, told me much of that money will have to come from private sector investment.
Britain cannot fund it in full. "Not even the chief minister expects that," she said.Britain cannot fund it in full. "Not even the chief minister expects that," she said.
More disruptionMore disruption
The whole thing was brought home to me as I prepared to leave.The whole thing was brought home to me as I prepared to leave.
Normal service had been disrupted and a smaller plane, with only seven seats, had been despatched to do the job.Normal service had been disrupted and a smaller plane, with only seven seats, had been despatched to do the job.
The pilot took one look at my equipment case and ordered it off the plane. I asked him why.The pilot took one look at my equipment case and ordered it off the plane. I asked him why.
"Every kilo counts," he said. "We have a short distance to get this up and if we don't...""Every kilo counts," he said. "We have a short distance to get this up and if we don't..."
"We go into the sea?" I asked him softly. "No," he said "we slam into another hill.""We go into the sea?" I asked him softly. "No," he said "we slam into another hill."
I saw the look on the other passengers' faces and shut up for duration of the half-hour hop to Antigua.I saw the look on the other passengers' faces and shut up for duration of the half-hour hop to Antigua.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday 28 July, 2007 at 1130 BST on BBC World Service . Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times. From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Monday 30 July, 2007 on the BBC World Service. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.