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| Taylor verdict absorbed by a region that can forget, but not forgive | Taylor verdict absorbed by a region that can forget, but not forgive |
| (6 days later) | |
| Twenty-odd miles from Sierra Leone's seaside capital of Freetown, the tiny hamlet of Grafton lies off a rutted dirt track. In a clearing surrounded by a cluster of low, sand-coloured buildings, three old men idle their time away under the shade of a mango tree, watching goats and chickens wandering past. It's a sleepy rural scene – marred only by the fact all three are missing an arm or leg. | Twenty-odd miles from Sierra Leone's seaside capital of Freetown, the tiny hamlet of Grafton lies off a rutted dirt track. In a clearing surrounded by a cluster of low, sand-coloured buildings, three old men idle their time away under the shade of a mango tree, watching goats and chickens wandering past. It's a sleepy rural scene – marred only by the fact all three are missing an arm or leg. |
| The men are a lingering reminder of the war that gripped this tiny nation of 5 million for over a decade, ending only in 2002. Sorie Sawanah, a former taxi driver, rarely speaks about the day he became one of the statistics of the brutal "Operation No Living Thing", when drug-crazed child soldiers rampaged through Freetown in 1999. | The men are a lingering reminder of the war that gripped this tiny nation of 5 million for over a decade, ending only in 2002. Sorie Sawanah, a former taxi driver, rarely speaks about the day he became one of the statistics of the brutal "Operation No Living Thing", when drug-crazed child soldiers rampaged through Freetown in 1999. |
| On the eve of Charles Taylor's conviction for "aiding and abetting" such attacks as he and his allies sought control of lucrative diamond fields, Sorie maintained his silence. "I don't want to recall them days," Sorie said, covering his face with a shaking hand. | On the eve of Charles Taylor's conviction for "aiding and abetting" such attacks as he and his allies sought control of lucrative diamond fields, Sorie maintained his silence. "I don't want to recall them days," Sorie said, covering his face with a shaking hand. |
| Sorie's son Ibrahim had nightmares for years about the scene he witnessed cowering behind a bush. "A child soldier give my father 'short sleeves'. A boy 10 years of age carrying a long military knife. He say, I dey chop your arm, your arm go fly! Then he mark," Ibrahim mimes a machete tapping at his elbow, "one, two, three – cut arm final! But the arm no cut right, so he cut again." | Sorie's son Ibrahim had nightmares for years about the scene he witnessed cowering behind a bush. "A child soldier give my father 'short sleeves'. A boy 10 years of age carrying a long military knife. He say, I dey chop your arm, your arm go fly! Then he mark," Ibrahim mimes a machete tapping at his elbow, "one, two, three – cut arm final! But the arm no cut right, so he cut again." |
| "Today it is like we are free. I will sleep well, well today. All these years Taylor lived well, but I can never go to school because my father cannot earn money. Today we can forget, even if we never forgive," Ibrahim said. | "Today it is like we are free. I will sleep well, well today. All these years Taylor lived well, but I can never go to school because my father cannot earn money. Today we can forget, even if we never forgive," Ibrahim said. |
| Like many in the country ravaged by 10 years of war, money was too scarce to make the short trip to the Freetown-based Sierra Leone special court where several hundred had quietly cheered the downfall of Taylor. Instead, Ibrahim received the news from a friend in the capital, and in turn set about passing the news by text message. | Like many in the country ravaged by 10 years of war, money was too scarce to make the short trip to the Freetown-based Sierra Leone special court where several hundred had quietly cheered the downfall of Taylor. Instead, Ibrahim received the news from a friend in the capital, and in turn set about passing the news by text message. |
| Others did likewise. Under a fading billboard emblazoned "Love One Another" – the slogan of a reconciliation campaign following the war which pitched neighbour against neighbour – Abou Dawana smiled as he called his mother in Kono, the diamond-rich heartland that fuelled much of the conflict. Both she and his two sisters had been raped by Taylor-allied rebels, he said. "I thank God for today," Abou said. | Others did likewise. Under a fading billboard emblazoned "Love One Another" – the slogan of a reconciliation campaign following the war which pitched neighbour against neighbour – Abou Dawana smiled as he called his mother in Kono, the diamond-rich heartland that fuelled much of the conflict. Both she and his two sisters had been raped by Taylor-allied rebels, he said. "I thank God for today," Abou said. |
| Years of waiting for the verdict muted much of the rage in Sierra Leone as ordinary folk turned instead to the more immediate business of piecing their lives together. Still, a vocal crowd of several hundred attended the proceedings – some carrying placards. "Orphans, widows, widowers, rape victims, amputees and all the war wounded, wipe your tears as the day of justice has come," one said. | Years of waiting for the verdict muted much of the rage in Sierra Leone as ordinary folk turned instead to the more immediate business of piecing their lives together. Still, a vocal crowd of several hundred attended the proceedings – some carrying placards. "Orphans, widows, widowers, rape victims, amputees and all the war wounded, wipe your tears as the day of justice has come," one said. |
| "Many of my people stayed home to listen to the radio today," said Musa Kallon, the traditional ruler of the largely rural Kailahun district. "People were panicking Taylor might be freed," Kallon said, dressed in a flowing blue and white traditional robe. | "Many of my people stayed home to listen to the radio today," said Musa Kallon, the traditional ruler of the largely rural Kailahun district. "People were panicking Taylor might be freed," Kallon said, dressed in a flowing blue and white traditional robe. |
| For some, though, relief at the verdict has been tempered by its limited scope – only a handful were tried out of hundreds of rebel commanders who directed atrocities. Those who escaped the court's attenton include Eldred Collins, leader of the political arm of the RUF guerrillas that Taylor used as proxy soldiers. Standing in front of the squat building, Collins rejected the court's authority. | For some, though, relief at the verdict has been tempered by its limited scope – only a handful were tried out of hundreds of rebel commanders who directed atrocities. Those who escaped the court's attenton include Eldred Collins, leader of the political arm of the RUF guerrillas that Taylor used as proxy soldiers. Standing in front of the squat building, Collins rejected the court's authority. |
| "How credible are those witnesses who testified in the trial just to make money? What happened during the war wasn't co-ordinated by Taylor or anyone – they were random acts that cannot be prevented during a war. Taylor will appeal and that is the right thing for him to do," the smartly-dressed Collins said, as amputees – some hobbling on crutches – streamed past him. | "How credible are those witnesses who testified in the trial just to make money? What happened during the war wasn't co-ordinated by Taylor or anyone – they were random acts that cannot be prevented during a war. Taylor will appeal and that is the right thing for him to do," the smartly-dressed Collins said, as amputees – some hobbling on crutches – streamed past him. |
| A few metres away, Mohammed Sarawu widened his eyes and crossed the withered stumps of his two arms protectively in front of him. "I felt bad when I saw Taylor [on television] today. I feel bad seeing his friend Collins who ordered so much raping and killing. I feel bad being near such people," he said quietly, before hurrying away. | A few metres away, Mohammed Sarawu widened his eyes and crossed the withered stumps of his two arms protectively in front of him. "I felt bad when I saw Taylor [on television] today. I feel bad seeing his friend Collins who ordered so much raping and killing. I feel bad being near such people," he said quietly, before hurrying away. |
| Not everyone followed the proceedings. "If Taylor goes to prison, okay. If Taylor goes free, okay. We are fatigued, it has been too long," said Fatoumata Sankoh, who hawks trinkets in front of the bullet-scarred, weed-covered Cape Sierra hotel the rebels used as a base during the war. | Not everyone followed the proceedings. "If Taylor goes to prison, okay. If Taylor goes free, okay. We are fatigued, it has been too long," said Fatoumata Sankoh, who hawks trinkets in front of the bullet-scarred, weed-covered Cape Sierra hotel the rebels used as a base during the war. |
| In the Liberian capital of Monrovia, emotions ran high. Specially-erected checkpoints across the city didn't stop crowds from thronging the streets. Supporters had hoped the trial would allow the former president to return to his homeland as a free man. "I'm too happy because my papay (Taylor) will be free," one man yelled in downtown Monrovia. Beside him, another held a poster proclaiming: "Pre-victory celebration for the freedom of the Messiah of Africa." | In the Liberian capital of Monrovia, emotions ran high. Specially-erected checkpoints across the city didn't stop crowds from thronging the streets. Supporters had hoped the trial would allow the former president to return to his homeland as a free man. "I'm too happy because my papay (Taylor) will be free," one man yelled in downtown Monrovia. Beside him, another held a poster proclaiming: "Pre-victory celebration for the freedom of the Messiah of Africa." |
| Taylor still commands large pockets of support in his homeland, with many dismissing the idea Sierra Leone's war was an overspill of Liberia's own civil conflict. An extravagant leader accused of looting millions from the state treasury, he routinely dished out bags of money to Liberians. | Taylor still commands large pockets of support in his homeland, with many dismissing the idea Sierra Leone's war was an overspill of Liberia's own civil conflict. An extravagant leader accused of looting millions from the state treasury, he routinely dished out bags of money to Liberians. |
| Some, like 23-year-old Amara Sanoe, who grew up under his 14-year reign of terror in Liberia, feel life was easier under then. "I want Charles Taylor to be free," he said. "During his government in Liberia, we were living here happily. There was no stress on my parents from money." | Some, like 23-year-old Amara Sanoe, who grew up under his 14-year reign of terror in Liberia, feel life was easier under then. "I want Charles Taylor to be free," he said. "During his government in Liberia, we were living here happily. There was no stress on my parents from money." |
| Taylor's generosity and ruthlessness were equal parts of his horrific genius, according to Sierra Leone scholar Lansana Gberie. "Taylor talked about a 'Greater Liberia', which is a very old colonial idea. He liked to show people he had grand ideas. But he never named a building after himself, he never planted a Liberian flag anywhere. His ideas were mercenary. He was an egoist who was interested in the material gains of power – the young women, the popularity and power." | Taylor's generosity and ruthlessness were equal parts of his horrific genius, according to Sierra Leone scholar Lansana Gberie. "Taylor talked about a 'Greater Liberia', which is a very old colonial idea. He liked to show people he had grand ideas. But he never named a building after himself, he never planted a Liberian flag anywhere. His ideas were mercenary. He was an egoist who was interested in the material gains of power – the young women, the popularity and power." |
| As the verdict was read out in Monrovia and people began to realise their "papay" was never coming home, the mood soured. "Actually it makes me crazy," said Sanoe, while others denounced the trial as a "western conspiracy". "Why was Bush or Tony Blair never put on trial?" screamed one man. "Why is it only African leaders?" | As the verdict was read out in Monrovia and people began to realise their "papay" was never coming home, the mood soured. "Actually it makes me crazy," said Sanoe, while others denounced the trial as a "western conspiracy". "Why was Bush or Tony Blair never put on trial?" screamed one man. "Why is it only African leaders?" |
| Such sentiments have remained a contentious point as the trial unfolded. "'I feel hurt seeing people who anticipated his freedom become frustrated," said 35-year-old Boima Gray, who lived in Monrovia throughout the war. | Such sentiments have remained a contentious point as the trial unfolded. "'I feel hurt seeing people who anticipated his freedom become frustrated," said 35-year-old Boima Gray, who lived in Monrovia throughout the war. |
| But reactions ranged from anger to satisfaction across the region. Elsewhere, too, the ex-president has other supporters in the region where he held such devastating sway. Bassey Usoh, his personal assistant during his exile to the Nigerian beachside town of Calabar, said that his ex-boss was a "fine gentleman who is innocent". | But reactions ranged from anger to satisfaction across the region. Elsewhere, too, the ex-president has other supporters in the region where he held such devastating sway. Bassey Usoh, his personal assistant during his exile to the Nigerian beachside town of Calabar, said that his ex-boss was a "fine gentleman who is innocent". |
| "The Taylor I knew cannot hurt a fly," Usoh said. In the bustling seaside town where an upmarket villa served as a gilded prison, Taylor is fondly remembered among market traders who benefitted from his lavish patronage. | "The Taylor I knew cannot hurt a fly," Usoh said. In the bustling seaside town where an upmarket villa served as a gilded prison, Taylor is fondly remembered among market traders who benefitted from his lavish patronage. |
| Elsewhere in west Africa, there was quiet celebration. Keeping Taylor company at The Hague is his former arch-enemy Laurent Gbagbo, the Ivorian ex-president whose refusal to relinquish power after losing elections last year triggered six months of bloodshed. | Elsewhere in west Africa, there was quiet celebration. Keeping Taylor company at The Hague is his former arch-enemy Laurent Gbagbo, the Ivorian ex-president whose refusal to relinquish power after losing elections last year triggered six months of bloodshed. |
| Thierry Coulibaly, whose brother was killed during the Ivorian conflict, said he planned to celebrate today's verdict with his family. "What makes me rejoice is seeing how these leaders are nothing without the people they killed like chickens," he said. "People who think international courts are targeting Africans, that's their problem. I think this is a lesson for all those who think they are God." | Thierry Coulibaly, whose brother was killed during the Ivorian conflict, said he planned to celebrate today's verdict with his family. "What makes me rejoice is seeing how these leaders are nothing without the people they killed like chickens," he said. "People who think international courts are targeting Africans, that's their problem. I think this is a lesson for all those who think they are God." |
| Across Sierra Leone, many others agreed. Sorie Sawanah, reached by phone as dusk approached in Freetown, finally broke his silence. "Amen," the old man said quietly. | Across Sierra Leone, many others agreed. Sorie Sawanah, reached by phone as dusk approached in Freetown, finally broke his silence. "Amen," the old man said quietly. |
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