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| What does the inauguration’s authoritarian-chic fashion tell us? Designers are suddenly eager to dress the Trumps | |
| (about 3 hours later) | |
| The first time round, high fashion shunned the president’s family. Now industry figures are flocking to them | The first time round, high fashion shunned the president’s family. Now industry figures are flocking to them |
| Mussolini once said that “any power whatsoever is destined to fail before fashion. If fashion says skirts are short, you will not succeed in lengthening them, even with the guillotine.” For that reason, far-right authoritarian movements have long attempted to capture the fashion system. We can argue endlessly about whether the new Trump administration can be compared to fascism. I think that it meets most of the key traits identified by Umberto Eco, but others will disagree. Regardless of your stance, it’s fair to say that the women of the Republican party have deployed fashion in ways that send a political message. | Mussolini once said that “any power whatsoever is destined to fail before fashion. If fashion says skirts are short, you will not succeed in lengthening them, even with the guillotine.” For that reason, far-right authoritarian movements have long attempted to capture the fashion system. We can argue endlessly about whether the new Trump administration can be compared to fascism. I think that it meets most of the key traits identified by Umberto Eco, but others will disagree. Regardless of your stance, it’s fair to say that the women of the Republican party have deployed fashion in ways that send a political message. |
| Though men especially like to highlight fashion’s supposed vapidity (tell that to Roland Barthes, I always think) it is an art form and a visual language that has much to tell us about the state of the world, and is as worthy of analysis as any other aspect of culture. The rise of the tradwife – and the modest, floral prairie dresses so beloved by these rightwing influencers, which then trickled down to the high street – has mirrored the shift in the US much further to the right. As this new administration inevitably comes to roll back more women’s rights, I wonder how it will be reflected in fashion. Prairie dresses are on the way out, but there are other styles to replace them. | Though men especially like to highlight fashion’s supposed vapidity (tell that to Roland Barthes, I always think) it is an art form and a visual language that has much to tell us about the state of the world, and is as worthy of analysis as any other aspect of culture. The rise of the tradwife – and the modest, floral prairie dresses so beloved by these rightwing influencers, which then trickled down to the high street – has mirrored the shift in the US much further to the right. As this new administration inevitably comes to roll back more women’s rights, I wonder how it will be reflected in fashion. Prairie dresses are on the way out, but there are other styles to replace them. |
| We seem to be seeing an even greater shift towards sartorial sharpness (see Ivanka Trump’s green outfit, eerily reminiscent of Handmaid’s Tale villain Serena Joy) and conservative tailoring or even, dare I say, the uniform dressing so beloved by the political far right. Much has been made of how Melania’s stark get-up contrasted to her Jackie O cosplay at the last inauguration. This time there was no attempt at demure people pleasing: she looked positively authoritarian. It was a merciless hat that said: “Resistance is futile, and I won’t make eye contact if you try to beg.” | We seem to be seeing an even greater shift towards sartorial sharpness (see Ivanka Trump’s green outfit, eerily reminiscent of Handmaid’s Tale villain Serena Joy) and conservative tailoring or even, dare I say, the uniform dressing so beloved by the political far right. Much has been made of how Melania’s stark get-up contrasted to her Jackie O cosplay at the last inauguration. This time there was no attempt at demure people pleasing: she looked positively authoritarian. It was a merciless hat that said: “Resistance is futile, and I won’t make eye contact if you try to beg.” |
| Just as significant is the fact that designers were far more willing, this time around, to work with the women of the Trump administration. LVMH owners the Arnaults were present at the inauguration. LVMH owns Givenchy – which dressed Ivanka for the inauguration ball in a gown reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn’s in Sabrina – and Delphine Arnault is CEO of Christian Dior Couture. Fashion was not only wary of dressing the Trumps during the last administration but was actively hostile, with Marc Jacobs saying: “I have no interest whatsoever in dressing Melania Trump … Personally, I’d rather put my energy into helping out those who will be hurt by [Donald] Trump and his supporters.” This time around, though, the fashion industry seems less resistant, a worrying sign of just how much of a profound shift to conservative values has taken place in the US. | Just as significant is the fact that designers were far more willing, this time around, to work with the women of the Trump administration. LVMH owners the Arnaults were present at the inauguration. LVMH owns Givenchy – which dressed Ivanka for the inauguration ball in a gown reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn’s in Sabrina – and Delphine Arnault is CEO of Christian Dior Couture. Fashion was not only wary of dressing the Trumps during the last administration but was actively hostile, with Marc Jacobs saying: “I have no interest whatsoever in dressing Melania Trump … Personally, I’d rather put my energy into helping out those who will be hurt by [Donald] Trump and his supporters.” This time around, though, the fashion industry seems less resistant, a worrying sign of just how much of a profound shift to conservative values has taken place in the US. |
| There are economic reasons for this newfound amenability, according to the Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck. He suggested this week that the fashion world is “afraid” of the president. Terrified of the impact that Trump’s tariffs could have on their brands, the industry is reportedly scared to speak out against him. One wonders what the industry’s many LGBTQ+ workers make of the designers working with an administration that is actively hostile to members of its community. Fashion may have had a dark history, but it has also been a way of showing resistance. Such is the diversity and creativity of the industry that I have a feeling not everyone is going to be so willing to toe the line. | There are economic reasons for this newfound amenability, according to the Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck. He suggested this week that the fashion world is “afraid” of the president. Terrified of the impact that Trump’s tariffs could have on their brands, the industry is reportedly scared to speak out against him. One wonders what the industry’s many LGBTQ+ workers make of the designers working with an administration that is actively hostile to members of its community. Fashion may have had a dark history, but it has also been a way of showing resistance. Such is the diversity and creativity of the industry that I have a feeling not everyone is going to be so willing to toe the line. |
| Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett is a Guardian columnist | Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett is a Guardian columnist |
| Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett is a Guardian columnist | Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett is a Guardian columnist |
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