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Never-ending story: rare flower gatherers of Diamantina Never-ending story: rare flower gatherers of Diamantina
(33 minutes later)
Gatherers of a rare Brazilian flower find their way of life – and incomes – are under threat. Ana Caroline de Lima, recipient of the Joan Wakelin Bursary, explains whyGatherers of a rare Brazilian flower find their way of life – and incomes – are under threat. Ana Caroline de Lima, recipient of the Joan Wakelin Bursary, explains why
In the heart of Minas Gerais, Brazil, lies Diamantina, a city where tradition merges with the vibrant tapestry of nature. Every weekend its main square is transformed by a mesmerising display of flowers, making it appear like a garden in bloom.In the heart of Minas Gerais, Brazil, lies Diamantina, a city where tradition merges with the vibrant tapestry of nature. Every weekend its main square is transformed by a mesmerising display of flowers, making it appear like a garden in bloom.
Diamantina’s main square.
Diamantina’s main square.
Spread out on the cobblestones are crafts made of flowers, ranging in colour from the most radiant hues to tender pastels. The flowers seem fresh and full of life, yet upon closer inspection are surprisingly dry.Spread out on the cobblestones are crafts made of flowers, ranging in colour from the most radiant hues to tender pastels. The flowers seem fresh and full of life, yet upon closer inspection are surprisingly dry.
Known as sempre-vivas, Portuguese for everlasting flowers, the species grows in shallow, sandy soil. What makes it special is that once removed from its natural habitat its delicate buds maintain their lifelike appearance, even after it dries out. Sometimes, decades after the flower was harvested, a drop of water will result in it closing its petals. Left to dry out again, the bloom reopens as if it is still living.Known as sempre-vivas, Portuguese for everlasting flowers, the species grows in shallow, sandy soil. What makes it special is that once removed from its natural habitat its delicate buds maintain their lifelike appearance, even after it dries out. Sometimes, decades after the flower was harvested, a drop of water will result in it closing its petals. Left to dry out again, the bloom reopens as if it is still living.
Nearby, the artisans sit on a bench observing tourists and answering questions about the authenticity of the flowers. Every weekend Ivanete Borges, 55, talks to visitors unfamiliar with sempre-vivas. “People ask how long the crafts will last, or if I’m sure the flowers aren’t made of plastic,” she says. “There are many things I don’t know in life but I can guarantee the flowers are real.” She laughs, holding a small bouquet she made the night before.Nearby, the artisans sit on a bench observing tourists and answering questions about the authenticity of the flowers. Every weekend Ivanete Borges, 55, talks to visitors unfamiliar with sempre-vivas. “People ask how long the crafts will last, or if I’m sure the flowers aren’t made of plastic,” she says. “There are many things I don’t know in life but I can guarantee the flowers are real.” She laughs, holding a small bouquet she made the night before.
It’s not rare to find ancient drawings in the rocks. Most of the paintings haven’t been studied yet. Ivanete remarks on ‘how wonderful it is to think that those who draw these paintings could also be collecting flowers, like us. I always like to understand the animals they draw. I can identify some species, but others I have no idea … maybe those are species which doesn’t exist in the region any more.’
It’s not rare to find ancient drawings in the rocks. Most of the paintings haven’t been studied yet. Ivanete remarks on ‘how wonderful it is to think that those who draw these paintings could also be collecting flowers, like us. I always like to understand the animals they draw. I can identify some species, but others I have no idea … maybe those are species which doesn’t exist in the region any more.’
The questions may be frequently asked, but the trade in sempre-vivas is far from new. According to Dr Renato Ramos, a biologist, botanist and researcher, the flowers have been sold commercially since the early 1900s.The questions may be frequently asked, but the trade in sempre-vivas is far from new. According to Dr Renato Ramos, a biologist, botanist and researcher, the flowers have been sold commercially since the early 1900s.
“At the end of the 1970s, the exported volume was about 1,000 tonnes, with nominal values reaching $3.5m,” he says. “During that time the trade mainly comprised flowers. As of 2022, products have been diversified and the export volume is about 200 tonnes with nominal values of $2m. The leading consumer countries are the Netherlands, the United States and Italy.”“At the end of the 1970s, the exported volume was about 1,000 tonnes, with nominal values reaching $3.5m,” he says. “During that time the trade mainly comprised flowers. As of 2022, products have been diversified and the export volume is about 200 tonnes with nominal values of $2m. The leading consumer countries are the Netherlands, the United States and Italy.”
Serra do Espinhaço is among the most diverse plant sites in the world, boasting high rates of endemism. Located within Brazil’s Cerrado biome, it is classified by Unesco as one of the planet’s 34 biodiversity hotspots. Among the endemic species found are various types of sempre-vivas, including the most well-known, Pé-de-ouro (Comanthera elegans). According to Brazil’s ministry of the environment, this species has been at risk of extinction since 1997.Serra do Espinhaço is among the most diverse plant sites in the world, boasting high rates of endemism. Located within Brazil’s Cerrado biome, it is classified by Unesco as one of the planet’s 34 biodiversity hotspots. Among the endemic species found are various types of sempre-vivas, including the most well-known, Pé-de-ouro (Comanthera elegans). According to Brazil’s ministry of the environment, this species has been at risk of extinction since 1997.
Landscape in Sempre Vivas national park. Created in 2002, the park is controlled by ICMBio (Instituto Chico Mendes de Conservação da Biodiversidade) and is struggling with a lack of budgetary resources. Earlier in July, ICMBio and IBAMA workers went on strike, asking for better pay and working conditions.
Landscape in Sempre Vivas national park. Created in 2002, the park is controlled by ICMBio (Instituto Chico Mendes de Conservação da Biodiversidade) and is struggling with a lack of budgetary resources. Earlier in July, ICMBio and IBAMA workers went on strike, asking for better pay and working conditions.
In the 1990s the creation of protected areas began, driven by widespread recognition of Espinhaço’s status as a biodiversity hotspot. In 2002 the Sempre-Vivas national park was founded over an area of 124,156 hectares. Conservation strategies, though, have led to restrictions on local practices such as the gathering of sempre-vivas flowers. Consequently, conflicts have emerged between local families and environmental authorities, highlighting the challenges of balancing conservation with socioeconomic realities.In the 1990s the creation of protected areas began, driven by widespread recognition of Espinhaço’s status as a biodiversity hotspot. In 2002 the Sempre-Vivas national park was founded over an area of 124,156 hectares. Conservation strategies, though, have led to restrictions on local practices such as the gathering of sempre-vivas flowers. Consequently, conflicts have emerged between local families and environmental authorities, highlighting the challenges of balancing conservation with socioeconomic realities.
Currently, flower harvesting happens in fields outside the park boundaries where the flowers grow naturally. These areas are often privately owned, and the proprietors charge for access and harvesting rights. The question is, can local communities find sustainable ways to continue flower collection so they can still make a living?Currently, flower harvesting happens in fields outside the park boundaries where the flowers grow naturally. These areas are often privately owned, and the proprietors charge for access and harvesting rights. The question is, can local communities find sustainable ways to continue flower collection so they can still make a living?
One of the answers lies in the community of Galheiros, where Ivanete was born. In the late 1990s, driven by the looming extinction of sempre-vivas, the NGO Terra Brasilis approached the community to discuss new ways to generate income.One of the answers lies in the community of Galheiros, where Ivanete was born. In the late 1990s, driven by the looming extinction of sempre-vivas, the NGO Terra Brasilis approached the community to discuss new ways to generate income.
“Terra Brasilis, IBAMA (the Brazilian Institute of Environment and Renewable Natural Resources) and other partner institutions like Emater-MG advised us on ways to add value to our products,” says Ivanete. “They proposed solutions to mitigate the impact on income caused by the creation of the national park, which restricted our access to the fields we had used since we were children.“Terra Brasilis, IBAMA (the Brazilian Institute of Environment and Renewable Natural Resources) and other partner institutions like Emater-MG advised us on ways to add value to our products,” says Ivanete. “They proposed solutions to mitigate the impact on income caused by the creation of the national park, which restricted our access to the fields we had used since we were children.
“Planting it is certainly a solution. We buy the seeds from exporters who cultivated large fields even before we started our own and it’s costly. Since we have limited space to collect native flowers we must cultivate it. To do this we need a large quantity of seeds and, therefore, a lot of money.”“Planting it is certainly a solution. We buy the seeds from exporters who cultivated large fields even before we started our own and it’s costly. Since we have limited space to collect native flowers we must cultivate it. To do this we need a large quantity of seeds and, therefore, a lot of money.”
A bunch of sempre-vivas.
A bunch of sempre-vivas.
Ivanete has roamed the rocky fields of Serra do Espinhaço to gather flowers since she was a girl. “I have such vivid memories of those days almost as if they happened yesterday,” she says. “As kids we had an absolute blast going out to collect flowers. We were familiar with the fields bursting with the most beautiful blooms, so we’d get everything ready for our ‘caves’ and turn it into our cosy little home.”Ivanete has roamed the rocky fields of Serra do Espinhaço to gather flowers since she was a girl. “I have such vivid memories of those days almost as if they happened yesterday,” she says. “As kids we had an absolute blast going out to collect flowers. We were familiar with the fields bursting with the most beautiful blooms, so we’d get everything ready for our ‘caves’ and turn it into our cosy little home.”
The ‘caves’ Ivanete mentions are lapas, Portuguese for small grottos, that were used by families as a shelter to keep them warm and safe from animals like jaguars and wolves. “I used to be terrified of snakes but we’ve all got used to them,” she says. “We no longer have to camp out to gather flowers – we’ve established our own cultivation. Let me show you.”The ‘caves’ Ivanete mentions are lapas, Portuguese for small grottos, that were used by families as a shelter to keep them warm and safe from animals like jaguars and wolves. “I used to be terrified of snakes but we’ve all got used to them,” she says. “We no longer have to camp out to gather flowers – we’ve established our own cultivation. Let me show you.”
Once we reach Ivanete’s family plantation, sisters Ivete Borges and Maria de Jesus Borges, also known as Nenzinha, scan the ground for any blooms that may have been overlooked. “The harvesting seasons are changing,” says Ivete. “For a long time the peak flowering period was predictable, but now we can’t rely on that.”Once we reach Ivanete’s family plantation, sisters Ivete Borges and Maria de Jesus Borges, also known as Nenzinha, scan the ground for any blooms that may have been overlooked. “The harvesting seasons are changing,” says Ivete. “For a long time the peak flowering period was predictable, but now we can’t rely on that.”
Suddenly, Ivete and Nenzinha head towards a small house. “Let me show you my mother’s garage.” As we reach the garage of Maria Vieira Araújo, 95, it becomes clear why her daughters wanted me to see it. A couch covered with sempre-vivas dominates the room. The golden-toned stems contrast with the dimly-lit space.Suddenly, Ivete and Nenzinha head towards a small house. “Let me show you my mother’s garage.” As we reach the garage of Maria Vieira Araújo, 95, it becomes clear why her daughters wanted me to see it. A couch covered with sempre-vivas dominates the room. The golden-toned stems contrast with the dimly-lit space.
There seem to be plenty of blooms, but the haul is insignificant compared with what will be collected during peak harvest season.There seem to be plenty of blooms, but the haul is insignificant compared with what will be collected during peak harvest season.
“When it is harvesting season, people’s room are filled with flowers – it’s very beautiful,” says the matriarch, looking fondly at one of her many bouquets.“When it is harvesting season, people’s room are filled with flowers – it’s very beautiful,” says the matriarch, looking fondly at one of her many bouquets.
Lia sitting surrounded by her daughters.
Lia sitting surrounded by her daughters.
Lia remembers raising her eight children with income from sempre-vivas. “It’s good work but very tiring,” she says. “We had to walk up and down hills while bringing the children along and sleeping in the caves on improvised mattresses made of grass.”Lia remembers raising her eight children with income from sempre-vivas. “It’s good work but very tiring,” she says. “We had to walk up and down hills while bringing the children along and sleeping in the caves on improvised mattresses made of grass.”
She explains that, despite efforts to cultivate sempre-vivas, flower collectors still need to go to privately owned fields to harvest the blooms.She explains that, despite efforts to cultivate sempre-vivas, flower collectors still need to go to privately owned fields to harvest the blooms.
“The fields are the same but those outside the park now have owners so you have to pay to enter,” she says. “To collect them you have to bend down and gather the flowers one by one. They don’t grow in clusters – they’re scattered in the field. We come back home with crazy back pain.” She laughs, sitting in a chair surrounded by her daughters.“The fields are the same but those outside the park now have owners so you have to pay to enter,” she says. “To collect them you have to bend down and gather the flowers one by one. They don’t grow in clusters – they’re scattered in the field. We come back home with crazy back pain.” She laughs, sitting in a chair surrounded by her daughters.
Years of physical exertion climbing hills to harvest flowers have taken a toll on many of the flower collectors. Nair Borges Vieira, 61, has been unable to leave her house for the past three years due to severe joint wear in both legs. Her mobility has been significantly restricted.Years of physical exertion climbing hills to harvest flowers have taken a toll on many of the flower collectors. Nair Borges Vieira, 61, has been unable to leave her house for the past three years due to severe joint wear in both legs. Her mobility has been significantly restricted.
Nair’s vibrant house, with its charming pink walls, never fails to catch the eye of passersby. Amid the array of bouquets, Nair dedicates herself to the meticulous art of sorting the dried flowers – a labour of love passed down through generations of her family. With skilful and purposeful movements she creates striking bouquets and crafts to be sold in Diamantina.Nair’s vibrant house, with its charming pink walls, never fails to catch the eye of passersby. Amid the array of bouquets, Nair dedicates herself to the meticulous art of sorting the dried flowers – a labour of love passed down through generations of her family. With skilful and purposeful movements she creates striking bouquets and crafts to be sold in Diamantina.
Nair Borges Vieira, 61.
Nair Borges Vieira, 61.
During the day Nair is accompanied by her five-year-old granddaughter, Lorena. Shortly before sunrise her daughter, son-in-law and husband, João da Luz, leave for a different field, returning at sunset.During the day Nair is accompanied by her five-year-old granddaughter, Lorena. Shortly before sunrise her daughter, son-in-law and husband, João da Luz, leave for a different field, returning at sunset.
Nair’s deep connection to sempre-vivas goes beyond just being a source of income. For her, it’s a form of therapy.Nair’s deep connection to sempre-vivas goes beyond just being a source of income. For her, it’s a form of therapy.
“I truly believe that if I hadn’t discovered how to craft I would have spiralled into deep sadness and depression,” she says, her eyes glistening with tears. “I don’t know if I would have had the strength to carry on.“I truly believe that if I hadn’t discovered how to craft I would have spiralled into deep sadness and depression,” she says, her eyes glistening with tears. “I don’t know if I would have had the strength to carry on.
“When I immerse myself in creating these pieces, time seems to suspend, much like the days when I used to wander the fields. The only sounds I hear are the melodious chirping of birds. Even my granddaughter joins in, and I believe she’s finding joy in learning this craft alongside me.”“When I immerse myself in creating these pieces, time seems to suspend, much like the days when I used to wander the fields. The only sounds I hear are the melodious chirping of birds. Even my granddaughter joins in, and I believe she’s finding joy in learning this craft alongside me.”
That day, the rest of the family arrive home earlier than usual. Dark rain clouds loom, even though this is the dry season. Lorena rushes to help her father gather flowers that were drying in front of the house.That day, the rest of the family arrive home earlier than usual. Dark rain clouds loom, even though this is the dry season. Lorena rushes to help her father gather flowers that were drying in front of the house.
“We can’t let them get wet or they’ll spoil,” she says, carefully picking up some bouquets.“We can’t let them get wet or they’ll spoil,” she says, carefully picking up some bouquets.
As the rain begins everyone heads to the kitchen. Suddenly, everything goes dark as the electrical supply fails.As the rain begins everyone heads to the kitchen. Suddenly, everything goes dark as the electrical supply fails.
Nair laughs and says it feels like it did 20 years ago – electricity only reached the region around 2004.Nair laughs and says it feels like it did 20 years ago – electricity only reached the region around 2004.
“That’s why it didn’t make much difference whether I was at home or in the cave,” she says, and everyone laughs.“That’s why it didn’t make much difference whether I was at home or in the cave,” she says, and everyone laughs.
As the rain clears the sky brightens a little and a shy rainbow appears between the clouds. João da Luz asks for a photo with his granddaughter. “Let’s show the future flower-gatherer!” he says, laughing. “Too bad my clothes are dirty, but you know how it is, our work is like that. Torn clothes are a source of pride.”As the rain clears the sky brightens a little and a shy rainbow appears between the clouds. João da Luz asks for a photo with his granddaughter. “Let’s show the future flower-gatherer!” he says, laughing. “Too bad my clothes are dirty, but you know how it is, our work is like that. Torn clothes are a source of pride.”
João da Luz with his five-year-old granddaughter, Lorena.
João da Luz with his five-year-old granddaughter, Lorena.
On the other side of the village, Antônio Borges, 75, repeats the same sentiment. Known as Totonho, he adjusts his hat before heading out to the plantation. “I’ve been wearing the same shirt for many years,” he says. “Some people laugh because it’s torn, but it’s so good. Why change it?”On the other side of the village, Antônio Borges, 75, repeats the same sentiment. Known as Totonho, he adjusts his hat before heading out to the plantation. “I’ve been wearing the same shirt for many years,” he says. “Some people laugh because it’s torn, but it’s so good. Why change it?”
Totonho appears warm-hearted and enjoys striking up conversations with others. The walls of his house are an interesting tone of green and yellow. “I painted it like this to bring a happier mood,” he says. He proudly shows a photograph, the edges worn from years of careful handling. In it, he stands beside his late wife and some of their children. “We raised all of them with a lot of effort,” he says. “When I was away my wife was here with them, in the flower fields. So I returned to be with them as well.”Totonho appears warm-hearted and enjoys striking up conversations with others. The walls of his house are an interesting tone of green and yellow. “I painted it like this to bring a happier mood,” he says. He proudly shows a photograph, the edges worn from years of careful handling. In it, he stands beside his late wife and some of their children. “We raised all of them with a lot of effort,” he says. “When I was away my wife was here with them, in the flower fields. So I returned to be with them as well.”
Totonho.
Nowadays, Totonho has scaled back his long walks and prefers to cover less than 5km at a time. “I try to avoid longer walks,” he admits. “Sometimes my legs give out a bit, which can be risky, you know. I always have a loyal dog by my side, but most importantly, I trust that God is watching over me.”Nowadays, Totonho has scaled back his long walks and prefers to cover less than 5km at a time. “I try to avoid longer walks,” he admits. “Sometimes my legs give out a bit, which can be risky, you know. I always have a loyal dog by my side, but most importantly, I trust that God is watching over me.”
As the sun sets, Totonho carefully gathers bundles of grass for his daughter to sell in Diamantina.As the sun sets, Totonho carefully gathers bundles of grass for his daughter to sell in Diamantina.
Totonho’s daughter Toca carefully prepares a bouquet made with a range variety of flowers.
Totonho’s daughter Toca carefully prepares a bouquet made with a range variety of flowers.
“Isn’t it wonderful to sell these beautiful things?” he says, adding pensively, “We must make the most of the beauty around us.”“Isn’t it wonderful to sell these beautiful things?” he says, adding pensively, “We must make the most of the beauty around us.”
Meanwhile, Ivanete walks home alongside her mother. The hands that once guided her daughter through the rocky fields full of sempre-vivas are now supported by Ivanete.Meanwhile, Ivanete walks home alongside her mother. The hands that once guided her daughter through the rocky fields full of sempre-vivas are now supported by Ivanete.
As with the flowers, the people of Galheiros are a profound lesson in resilience. While the wider world increasingly faces the fallout of climate breakdown and environmental degradation, this community is a reminder that life can withstand the most challenging conditions.As with the flowers, the people of Galheiros are a profound lesson in resilience. While the wider world increasingly faces the fallout of climate breakdown and environmental degradation, this community is a reminder that life can withstand the most challenging conditions.
The headline on this article was amended on 31 October 2024 to correct the spelling of Diamantina.The headline on this article was amended on 31 October 2024 to correct the spelling of Diamantina.
Administered by the RPS in partnership with the Guardian, the Joan Wakelin Bursary supports the production of a photographic essay on an overseas social documentary issue.Administered by the RPS in partnership with the Guardian, the Joan Wakelin Bursary supports the production of a photographic essay on an overseas social documentary issue.