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Trying to stay safe in Haiti Trying to stay safe in Haiti
(2 days later)
As the United Nations decides to keep its peacekeepers in Haiti for another 12 months, Nick Caistor travels to the country to find out how dangerous the situation is for himself.As the United Nations decides to keep its peacekeepers in Haiti for another 12 months, Nick Caistor travels to the country to find out how dangerous the situation is for himself.
The Republic of Haiti is the Caribbean's poorest nationThe Republic of Haiti is the Caribbean's poorest nation
Whenever possible, I like to travel into Haiti by bus from the neighbouring Dominican Republic.Whenever possible, I like to travel into Haiti by bus from the neighbouring Dominican Republic.
It is a long seven-hour ride, but it allows me to take the political temperature at the border and to see if there is any improvement in the crippling poverty immediately obvious in the Haitian countryside before I am submerged in the sprawling mess of the capital, Port-au-Prince.It is a long seven-hour ride, but it allows me to take the political temperature at the border and to see if there is any improvement in the crippling poverty immediately obvious in the Haitian countryside before I am submerged in the sprawling mess of the capital, Port-au-Prince.
I also get to meet interesting travel companions and this time was no exception.I also get to meet interesting travel companions and this time was no exception.
The man I fell into conversation with was Charles, a retired engineer from New York State. Since his retirement, Charles told me, he has been spending his time on projects sponsored by the International Rotary Club.The man I fell into conversation with was Charles, a retired engineer from New York State. Since his retirement, Charles told me, he has been spending his time on projects sponsored by the International Rotary Club.
At the moment, he is working hard in Haiti to bring proper drinking water to some 200,000 school children who at present - like most of the Haitian population - have no access to safe water.At the moment, he is working hard in Haiti to bring proper drinking water to some 200,000 school children who at present - like most of the Haitian population - have no access to safe water.
This was interesting enough but it was Charles's other news that particularly caught my attention.This was interesting enough but it was Charles's other news that particularly caught my attention.
Random ransomRandom ransom
The last time he had been in Haiti, he said, he had been kidnapped.The last time he had been in Haiti, he said, he had been kidnapped.
While his car was held up in one of the inevitable Port-au-Prince traffic jams, four men had pulled up alongside in a jeep, fired shots underneath his vehicle and forced him out.While his car was held up in one of the inevitable Port-au-Prince traffic jams, four men had pulled up alongside in a jeep, fired shots underneath his vehicle and forced him out.
They held him for several days, while they tried to get somebody to pay a ransom.They held him for several days, while they tried to get somebody to pay a ransom.
They called all his Rotarian friends and anyone else whose business card he happened to have on him.They called all his Rotarian friends and anyone else whose business card he happened to have on him.
When the first group of kidnappers was unsuccessful, they passed him on to others who tried again. In the end, though, all they got was the money he had in his wallet, and his captors set him free.When the first group of kidnappers was unsuccessful, they passed him on to others who tried again. In the end, though, all they got was the money he had in his wallet, and his captors set him free.
As Charles proudly told me, the US embassy reckoned his was the only case of someone being released by kidnappers in Haiti without a ransom being paid. When I asked why he thought he was an exception, Charles modestly reckoned that it was because the gangs got fed up with him talking so much.As Charles proudly told me, the US embassy reckoned his was the only case of someone being released by kidnappers in Haiti without a ransom being paid. When I asked why he thought he was an exception, Charles modestly reckoned that it was because the gangs got fed up with him talking so much.
Returned criminalsReturned criminals
But he also confirmed what many people in Haiti believe - that his captors, who spoke English, were people who had been deported back to Haiti from jails in the United States.But he also confirmed what many people in Haiti believe - that his captors, who spoke English, were people who had been deported back to Haiti from jails in the United States.
My own slender guarantee against being kidnapped is my Haitian driver, Jean-Pierre, who speaks CreoleMy own slender guarantee against being kidnapped is my Haitian driver, Jean-Pierre, who speaks Creole
The Bush administration has been sending back an average of 50 Haitians a month and, although this may ease their prison population problems, many of the returnees are wreaking havoc in the slums of Port-au-Prince.The Bush administration has been sending back an average of 50 Haitians a month and, although this may ease their prison population problems, many of the returnees are wreaking havoc in the slums of Port-au-Prince.
The Haitian army was demobilised in 1995, after the United States intervened to help overthrow the last military dictatorship. This was a good move, except for the fact that the Haitian state now has no monopoly on force or weapons in the country.The Haitian army was demobilised in 1995, after the United States intervened to help overthrow the last military dictatorship. This was a good move, except for the fact that the Haitian state now has no monopoly on force or weapons in the country.
The small police force is hopelessly outgunned and will hardly ever venture into the worst slums of the capital, where gangs and drug-runners are in control.The small police force is hopelessly outgunned and will hardly ever venture into the worst slums of the capital, where gangs and drug-runners are in control.
Troops on tour?Troops on tour?
The threat from the criminal gangs is the main reason why the United Nations force of 7,000 soldiers from many different countries is staying on in Haiti for another year.The threat from the criminal gangs is the main reason why the United Nations force of 7,000 soldiers from many different countries is staying on in Haiti for another year.
The UN troops' lack of local knowledge has earned them the nickname of 'tourists'The UN troops' lack of local knowledge has earned them the nickname of 'tourists'
They are the only ones with the weapons and the logistical backup to be able to take on the criminals and win. So far, though, their success has been strictly limited.They are the only ones with the weapons and the logistical backup to be able to take on the criminals and win. So far, though, their success has been strictly limited.
Recently one patrol was caught out when their armoured vehicle broke down in Cite Soleil - or Sun City - the ironically named vast, dark slum down near the capital's seafront.Recently one patrol was caught out when their armoured vehicle broke down in Cite Soleil - or Sun City - the ironically named vast, dark slum down near the capital's seafront.
The UN contingent apparently ran off, leaving their armoured vehicle and its heavy machine-guns to the crooks. The United Nations was then forced into embarrassing negotiations just to get their own weapons back.The UN contingent apparently ran off, leaving their armoured vehicle and its heavy machine-guns to the crooks. The United Nations was then forced into embarrassing negotiations just to get their own weapons back.
My own slender guarantee against being kidnapped is my Haitian driver, Jean-Pierre, who speaks Creole.My own slender guarantee against being kidnapped is my Haitian driver, Jean-Pierre, who speaks Creole.
Jean-Pierre says that the biggest problem for the UN troops is their lack of local knowledge, which has earned them the nickname of "tourists".Jean-Pierre says that the biggest problem for the UN troops is their lack of local knowledge, which has earned them the nickname of "tourists".
Whenever they raid the slums, the Haitian gangs simply hide their weapons, secure in the knowledge that none of their neighbours will dare give them away.Whenever they raid the slums, the Haitian gangs simply hide their weapons, secure in the knowledge that none of their neighbours will dare give them away.
Faith in a fast carFaith in a fast car
But Jean-Pierre also says there is a political point behind many of the apparently random kidnappings. Supporters of Jean-Bertrand Aristide, who was ousted from power in February three years ago, claim he was "kidnapped" by the United States and France, the old colonial power.But Jean-Pierre also says there is a political point behind many of the apparently random kidnappings. Supporters of Jean-Bertrand Aristide, who was ousted from power in February three years ago, claim he was "kidnapped" by the United States and France, the old colonial power.
So the gangs are replying in kind and are trying to destabilise the government which, under President Rene Preval, has been making some timid progress.So the gangs are replying in kind and are trying to destabilise the government which, under President Rene Preval, has been making some timid progress.
Jean-Pierre's own tactics are to drive as quickly as he can, to avoid the slums whenever possible and to make sure we are back in a safe area before nightfall.Jean-Pierre's own tactics are to drive as quickly as he can, to avoid the slums whenever possible and to make sure we are back in a safe area before nightfall.
So far it has worked but, as the bus out of Haiti crosses the border back into the Dominican Republic, I still give thanks to Papa Legba - or any other voodoo deity I can think of - for protecting me, at least until now.So far it has worked but, as the bus out of Haiti crosses the border back into the Dominican Republic, I still give thanks to Papa Legba - or any other voodoo deity I can think of - for protecting me, at least until now.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 10 February, 2007 at 11.30 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the HREF="http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/3187926.stm">programme schedules for World Service transmission times. From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 10 February, 2007 at 1130 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the class="inlineText" href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/3187926.stm">programme schedules for World Service transmission times.