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Some sausages are more equal than others Some sausages are more equal than others
(10 minutes later)
By Megan Lane BBC News Magazine With organic meat now readily available, vegetarians who once shunned flesh because of concerns about factory farming find their resolve weakening. Mine has.By Megan Lane BBC News Magazine With organic meat now readily available, vegetarians who once shunned flesh because of concerns about factory farming find their resolve weakening. Mine has.
Roast duck. Lancashire suckling pig. Venison tenderloin. Welsh rabbit. Devilled lamb's kidneys. After 14 years of my eyes skating over such items on a menu, while dining out last month my interest was piqued by the fleshy riches on offer.Roast duck. Lancashire suckling pig. Venison tenderloin. Welsh rabbit. Devilled lamb's kidneys. After 14 years of my eyes skating over such items on a menu, while dining out last month my interest was piqued by the fleshy riches on offer.
Because I have started eating meat again, but only meat from animals who've enjoyed a happy life before being slaughtered. Unlike when I decided to eat neither beast nor fowl, organic and free-range meat is now easily available.Because I have started eating meat again, but only meat from animals who've enjoyed a happy life before being slaughtered. Unlike when I decided to eat neither beast nor fowl, organic and free-range meat is now easily available.
"Happy" pigs make for tasty pigsIt was having a baby that first made me question my meat-free diet; I wrestled with whether she would be vegetarian too (my omnivore partner having ceded the decision to me)."Happy" pigs make for tasty pigsIt was having a baby that first made me question my meat-free diet; I wrestled with whether she would be vegetarian too (my omnivore partner having ceded the decision to me).
Having low iron levels myself, despite a fondness for spinach, dhal and dried apricots, I decided that organic meat would be part of her diet. So why feed my baby something I'm not prepared to eat myself?Having low iron levels myself, despite a fondness for spinach, dhal and dried apricots, I decided that organic meat would be part of her diet. So why feed my baby something I'm not prepared to eat myself?
It took another year - and a bout of food poisoning from a tofu sausage - for meat to pass my lips. An organic pork and leek banger from the local butcher. It tasted good. My digestive system didn't crumble. My animal welfare issues were assuaged. And, since then, my iron levels have gone up.It took another year - and a bout of food poisoning from a tofu sausage - for meat to pass my lips. An organic pork and leek banger from the local butcher. It tasted good. My digestive system didn't crumble. My animal welfare issues were assuaged. And, since then, my iron levels have gone up.
Farmers' marketsFarmers' markets
The nation as a whole is being encouraged to eat better quality meat, less often, for the good of our health and the planet. Last April, researchers at the University of Chicago calculated that cutting meat intake by a few burgers a week would have the same effect on carbon emissions as switching from a four-wheel drive to a saloon car.The nation as a whole is being encouraged to eat better quality meat, less often, for the good of our health and the planet. Last April, researchers at the University of Chicago calculated that cutting meat intake by a few burgers a week would have the same effect on carbon emissions as switching from a four-wheel drive to a saloon car.
Demand for organic turkey shot up this ChristmasSupermarkets and farmers' markets do a brisk trade in organic products, with meat, eggs and dairy all popular. According to the Soil Association, consumption of organic poultry has risen by 55% since 2004 and concerns over GM food and processed meat have boosted sales of all organic meat.Demand for organic turkey shot up this ChristmasSupermarkets and farmers' markets do a brisk trade in organic products, with meat, eggs and dairy all popular. According to the Soil Association, consumption of organic poultry has risen by 55% since 2004 and concerns over GM food and processed meat have boosted sales of all organic meat.
But it remains a niche market, typically bought by those who decide to throw money at the problem. Organic products account for just 1.4% of red meat sales, up 14% on last year.But it remains a niche market, typically bought by those who decide to throw money at the problem. Organic products account for just 1.4% of red meat sales, up 14% on last year.
Chris Lamb, of the Meat and Livestock Commission, doubts that organic meat will ever dominate the market. "You couldn't turn over the whole of British production or consumption to being organic - it's unfeasible in terms of the amount of land available and the price."Chris Lamb, of the Meat and Livestock Commission, doubts that organic meat will ever dominate the market. "You couldn't turn over the whole of British production or consumption to being organic - it's unfeasible in terms of the amount of land available and the price."
Nor does he see a day when producers and marketers set out to woo wavering vegetarians.Nor does he see a day when producers and marketers set out to woo wavering vegetarians.
"But if there is someone who is vegetarian for ethical reasons, the fact that there are now organic, outdoor-produced, farm shops that make the whole thing look more acceptable, that gives them an easier access point back.""But if there is someone who is vegetarian for ethical reasons, the fact that there are now organic, outdoor-produced, farm shops that make the whole thing look more acceptable, that gives them an easier access point back."
Holiday fareHoliday fare
Bella Jacobs, a mother of two from north London, was a vegetarian for 10 years - "I wore anti-vivisection badges, the lot" - but lapsed while on holiday in France six years ago.Bella Jacobs, a mother of two from north London, was a vegetarian for 10 years - "I wore anti-vivisection badges, the lot" - but lapsed while on holiday in France six years ago.
Loaves, yes. But fishes?"I was a bit bored with eating cheese sandwiches there, and realised that I no longer had my youthful horror of killing animals - not eating meat had become a habit, not a passion. So I succumbed. And it was easier than I thought.Loaves, yes. But fishes?"I was a bit bored with eating cheese sandwiches there, and realised that I no longer had my youthful horror of killing animals - not eating meat had become a habit, not a passion. So I succumbed. And it was easier than I thought.
"Now I eat mostly organic meat, and I try really hard to never to eat bog-standard chicken - I once worked in a chicken factory and it was just horrid the way the meat was treated. I've done the force-fed goose thing with fois gras, but I'd never eat veal, or pork from a country that keeps pigs in boxes.""Now I eat mostly organic meat, and I try really hard to never to eat bog-standard chicken - I once worked in a chicken factory and it was just horrid the way the meat was treated. I've done the force-fed goose thing with fois gras, but I'd never eat veal, or pork from a country that keeps pigs in boxes."
Organic or not, a Vegetarian Society spokeswoman says hardcore vegetarians will not weaken their resolve.Organic or not, a Vegetarian Society spokeswoman says hardcore vegetarians will not weaken their resolve.
"You would be hard-pressed to find a committed vegetarian who would switch back to being a meat-eater simply because a lamb or cow was bred on an organic farm. These animals are still killed whether they lived on an organic farm or not.""You would be hard-pressed to find a committed vegetarian who would switch back to being a meat-eater simply because a lamb or cow was bred on an organic farm. These animals are still killed whether they lived on an organic farm or not."
TASTE THE DIFFERENCE? Organic farming severely limits antibiotics and other chemicals; no growth hormonesStipulates smaller flock/herd sizes and other means of ensuring animal welfareOrganic meat and poultry are free-range, roaming outdoors and with spacious indoor areasFree-range/outdoor-reared products not organic unless stated - lower standards of welfare and chemical use Yet she partly undermines the point by admitting that many of the UK's three million vegetarians give up meat because of the cruelty and poor practices involved in factory farming.TASTE THE DIFFERENCE? Organic farming severely limits antibiotics and other chemicals; no growth hormonesStipulates smaller flock/herd sizes and other means of ensuring animal welfareOrganic meat and poultry are free-range, roaming outdoors and with spacious indoor areasFree-range/outdoor-reared products not organic unless stated - lower standards of welfare and chemical use Yet she partly undermines the point by admitting that many of the UK's three million vegetarians give up meat because of the cruelty and poor practices involved in factory farming.
"We are not criticising the more responsible methods employed by organic farmers in the way they run their livelihoods. I don't doubt that people who claim to eat only 'ethical' meat are clearly uncomfortable with the idea of causing pain and distress, but the only way to completely avoid that is by cutting out meat.""We are not criticising the more responsible methods employed by organic farmers in the way they run their livelihoods. I don't doubt that people who claim to eat only 'ethical' meat are clearly uncomfortable with the idea of causing pain and distress, but the only way to completely avoid that is by cutting out meat."
That is a step too far for many Britons, but 30% of the UK population is actively reducing their red meat intake.That is a step too far for many Britons, but 30% of the UK population is actively reducing their red meat intake.
Among them is the family of Rachael Deacon, a teacher in Blackburn, Lancashire. A vegetarian for 10 years, she lapsed after craving meat while pregnant, eight years ago. Today she cooks mostly vegetarian food but splashes out on organic chicken or lamb every so often.Among them is the family of Rachael Deacon, a teacher in Blackburn, Lancashire. A vegetarian for 10 years, she lapsed after craving meat while pregnant, eight years ago. Today she cooks mostly vegetarian food but splashes out on organic chicken or lamb every so often.
"You hear so many scare stories now about battery chickens. Because I don't buy much meat, I pay more to buy healthier food. I don't want my animals to be slaughtered horribly or to have a horrible life.""You hear so many scare stories now about battery chickens. Because I don't buy much meat, I pay more to buy healthier food. I don't want my animals to be slaughtered horribly or to have a horrible life."
For when it comes to meat, you gets what you pays for.For when it comes to meat, you gets what you pays for.

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Welsh Rarebit has meat in it now? I thought it was overly elaborate cheese on toast?Rob Walker, KidderminsterEd's note: It was rabbit. From Wales. Not rarebit.
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