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| Ralph Lauren apologises after Mexico indigenous 'plagiarism' claim | Ralph Lauren apologises after Mexico indigenous 'plagiarism' claim |
| (4 months later) | |
| Ralph Lauren has apologised for selling an item which allegedly copied Mexican indigenous designs. | Ralph Lauren has apologised for selling an item which allegedly copied Mexican indigenous designs. |
| The US fashion chain was accused of "plagiarism" by the wife of the country's president, Beatriz Gutiérrez, as well as a culture minister. | The US fashion chain was accused of "plagiarism" by the wife of the country's president, Beatriz Gutiérrez, as well as a culture minister. |
| Mexico has aimed similar complaints at other big brands in recent years. | Mexico has aimed similar complaints at other big brands in recent years. |
| Ralph Lauren said it was "surprised" to see the garment in question still on sale, having issued a "stern directive" months previously to remove it. | Ralph Lauren said it was "surprised" to see the garment in question still on sale, having issued a "stern directive" months previously to remove it. |
| In a statement, the clothing company said it was working to find out how the product ended up on the sales floor, and that it was "deeply sorry this happened". | In a statement, the clothing company said it was working to find out how the product ended up on the sales floor, and that it was "deeply sorry this happened". |
| News agency Reuters reported that it found the same item selling online for hundreds of dollars. | News agency Reuters reported that it found the same item selling online for hundreds of dollars. |
| In her Instagram post, Ms Gutiérrez shared an image of a long garment which featured stripes and patterns and hung in a shop sporting a Ralph Lauren label. | In her Instagram post, Ms Gutiérrez shared an image of a long garment which featured stripes and patterns and hung in a shop sporting a Ralph Lauren label. |
| She asserted that the brand was fond of designs inspired by indigenous textile traditions. But, she added, "copying" these patterns was a matter of plagiarism, which she described as "illegal and immoral". | She asserted that the brand was fond of designs inspired by indigenous textile traditions. But, she added, "copying" these patterns was a matter of plagiarism, which she described as "illegal and immoral". |
| Ms Gutiérrez, a writer and researcher, said this particular item appropriated the design of garments worn by the Contla and Saltillo people, and called for compensation for indigenous communities. | Ms Gutiérrez, a writer and researcher, said this particular item appropriated the design of garments worn by the Contla and Saltillo people, and called for compensation for indigenous communities. |
| A post shared by Beatriz Gutiérrez Müller (@beatrizgutierrezmuller) | A post shared by Beatriz Gutiérrez Müller (@beatrizgutierrezmuller) |
| Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto added her own criticism, describing it as a case of "cultural appropriation". | Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto added her own criticism, describing it as a case of "cultural appropriation". |
| The phrase is used to refer to an incidence when a particular tradition, like a hairstyle or clothing, is taken from a marginalised group and used in a different way by a dominant culture. | The phrase is used to refer to an incidence when a particular tradition, like a hairstyle or clothing, is taken from a marginalised group and used in a different way by a dominant culture. |
| There is a clear line between appreciation and appropriation, says Netherlands-based anthropologist Sandra Niessen. | There is a clear line between appreciation and appropriation, says Netherlands-based anthropologist Sandra Niessen. |
| "Taking inspiration from designs made by other people is as old as design itself," she says - adding that this is how cultures grow. | "Taking inspiration from designs made by other people is as old as design itself," she says - adding that this is how cultures grow. |
| But, she says, appropriation sometimes seen in contemporary fashion suggests power imbalances and "colonialism in practice". | But, she says, appropriation sometimes seen in contemporary fashion suggests power imbalances and "colonialism in practice". |
| In its statement, Ralph Lauren pointed to an announcement in June that promised greater "credit and collaboration" for new garments using indigenous motifs from summer 2023. | In its statement, Ralph Lauren pointed to an announcement in June that promised greater "credit and collaboration" for new garments using indigenous motifs from summer 2023. |
| It added that the company was deepening its "cultural awareness training" and broadening its work with indigenous communities. | It added that the company was deepening its "cultural awareness training" and broadening its work with indigenous communities. |
| Claims of this sort of exploitation frequently surface in the fashion industry, and Ralph Lauren is just the latest global brand to face accusations from Mexican officials. | Claims of this sort of exploitation frequently surface in the fashion industry, and Ralph Lauren is just the latest global brand to face accusations from Mexican officials. |
| In July, Chinese retailer Shein was taken to task over a product which, Mexico said, used the designs of the Mayan community - prompting the company to withdraw the product from sale. | In July, Chinese retailer Shein was taken to task over a product which, Mexico said, used the designs of the Mayan community - prompting the company to withdraw the product from sale. |
| Zara, Mango and Anthropologie are among numerous other Western labels to have come under fire - and in 2020, French designer Isabel Marant issued her own apology after appropriation accusations. | Zara, Mango and Anthropologie are among numerous other Western labels to have come under fire - and in 2020, French designer Isabel Marant issued her own apology after appropriation accusations. |
| Earlier this year, Mexico passed a law that pledged to give greater protections to the country's indigenous and Afro-Mexican people. | Earlier this year, Mexico passed a law that pledged to give greater protections to the country's indigenous and Afro-Mexican people. |
| Related Topics | |
| Clothing industry | |
| Mexico | |
| Fashion |