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Dynamite sticks and gem stones | Dynamite sticks and gem stones |
(about 11 hours later) | |
Hundreds work in the gloom, enduring poor air quality By Martin Patience BBC News, Panjshir valley, Afghanistan | Hundreds work in the gloom, enduring poor air quality By Martin Patience BBC News, Panjshir valley, Afghanistan |
It all felt a bit ominous. With a rucksack packed with five litres of water I was struggling my way up the Hindu Kush mountain range, thousands of feet above sea-level. | It all felt a bit ominous. With a rucksack packed with five litres of water I was struggling my way up the Hindu Kush mountain range, thousands of feet above sea-level. |
Behind me was a man carrying a yellow sack - a yellow sack packed with explosives, that is. | Behind me was a man carrying a yellow sack - a yellow sack packed with explosives, that is. |
And then on the way up the narrow path, I spotted three or four green Islamic flags marking a gravestone. | And then on the way up the narrow path, I spotted three or four green Islamic flags marking a gravestone. |
What happened there, I wondered. Well, it seemed that someone had been taking a rest - his last as it turned out - when he was struck by a rock fall. | What happened there, I wondered. Well, it seemed that someone had been taking a rest - his last as it turned out - when he was struck by a rock fall. |
But the reason for all the pain and high-altitude panting was simple: we were heading to the emerald mines. | But the reason for all the pain and high-altitude panting was simple: we were heading to the emerald mines. |
Flying stones | Flying stones |
The journey had started three hours earlier in the village of Kheng. | The journey had started three hours earlier in the village of Kheng. |
It was the kind of place that seemed strange even by Afghan standards. | It was the kind of place that seemed strange even by Afghan standards. |
Most of the shops were a neat row of shipping containers. And almost everyone seemed to have slips of white paper they would unwrap for you to reveal emeralds. | |
The stones weren't dazzling; in fact, they looked like dull shards of glass. They only shine after they are cut and polished. | The stones weren't dazzling; in fact, they looked like dull shards of glass. They only shine after they are cut and polished. |
The mountains here are like Swiss cheese, burrowed with mine shafts | The mountains here are like Swiss cheese, burrowed with mine shafts |
But for the few hundred villagers of Kheng - it meant money - and lots of it. | But for the few hundred villagers of Kheng - it meant money - and lots of it. |
The source of that wealth, the mines, was above the snowline. | The source of that wealth, the mines, was above the snowline. |
At first, there wasn't a lot to look at - apart from flying stones that hurtled their way down the slopes. | At first, there wasn't a lot to look at - apart from flying stones that hurtled their way down the slopes. |
But once you had caught your breath, and looked closer, you saw it for what it was: a frontier post perched high on a mountain. | But once you had caught your breath, and looked closer, you saw it for what it was: a frontier post perched high on a mountain. |
Parts of the mountain were like Swiss cheese - burrowed with mineshafts. | Parts of the mountain were like Swiss cheese - burrowed with mineshafts. |
About 300 men worked up here - living in caves, or, if they were lucky, in mud houses. Some stayed up here for weeks on end. | About 300 men worked up here - living in caves, or, if they were lucky, in mud houses. Some stayed up here for weeks on end. |
They worked in teams - miners, diggers, explosive experts, cooks, and suppliers. They shared the profits of any emeralds that were found. | They worked in teams - miners, diggers, explosive experts, cooks, and suppliers. They shared the profits of any emeralds that were found. |
'Need luck' | 'Need luck' |
You could buy in as part of a syndicate - and provide, say, a donkey-load of rice which would guarantee you a share. | You could buy in as part of a syndicate - and provide, say, a donkey-load of rice which would guarantee you a share. |
But you needed luck in this place if you wanted to get rich. | But you needed luck in this place if you wanted to get rich. |
Mohammed, the manager of one of the mines, told me that he had seen people work for 10 years and find absolutely nothing. | Mohammed, the manager of one of the mines, told me that he had seen people work for 10 years and find absolutely nothing. |
Some miners strike lucky quickly - others not at all | Some miners strike lucky quickly - others not at all |
And then he had seen people mining for two weeks walking away with a haul of the precious stones. | And then he had seen people mining for two weeks walking away with a haul of the precious stones. |
More worryingly, Mohammed told me that 30 miners had been killed or seriously injured by explosions or fumes in the mineshafts in the past 10 years. | More worryingly, Mohammed told me that 30 miners had been killed or seriously injured by explosions or fumes in the mineshafts in the past 10 years. |
Unsurprisingly, there wasn't a great deal of science or safety considerations when it came to mining here. | Unsurprisingly, there wasn't a great deal of science or safety considerations when it came to mining here. |
At the entrance to one of the operational mines, four miners, looking like sooty moles, appeared to be enjoying the daylight after hours of darkness. | At the entrance to one of the operational mines, four miners, looking like sooty moles, appeared to be enjoying the daylight after hours of darkness. |
Armed only with a torch, I walked into their gloom. I was forced to scramble up steep inclines. The air quality got worse and worse the further I went. It felt like walking into a smoker's lung. | Armed only with a torch, I walked into their gloom. I was forced to scramble up steep inclines. The air quality got worse and worse the further I went. It felt like walking into a smoker's lung. |
After walking for a few minutes, the noise of a drill started echoing through the rough-cut tunnel. | After walking for a few minutes, the noise of a drill started echoing through the rough-cut tunnel. |
There were two young men. They packed the drilled hole with explosives scooped out of a plastic bag. And then fitted it with a charge. | There were two young men. They packed the drilled hole with explosives scooped out of a plastic bag. And then fitted it with a charge. |
Hasty turn | Hasty turn |
I didn't fancy hanging about to see the explosion going off. | I didn't fancy hanging about to see the explosion going off. |
So I made the hastiest turn of my life and half-stumbled down the mineshaft, trying to mind my head and trying not to drop my torch. | So I made the hastiest turn of my life and half-stumbled down the mineshaft, trying to mind my head and trying not to drop my torch. |
I then shouted at Mahfouz - the BBC's ever-patient producer - that we needed to stick together - it's very dangerous! We can't be messing about at times like this. | I then shouted at Mahfouz - the BBC's ever-patient producer - that we needed to stick together - it's very dangerous! We can't be messing about at times like this. |
Accidents have killed or wounded 30 miners in the past decade | Accidents have killed or wounded 30 miners in the past decade |
A few seconds later he arrived - face puffing - and calmly said: "Martin you're going the wrong way." | A few seconds later he arrived - face puffing - and calmly said: "Martin you're going the wrong way." |
When the explosions went off - I wasn't actually out of the mine. Instead, I was at a so-called "safe" distance. | When the explosions went off - I wasn't actually out of the mine. Instead, I was at a so-called "safe" distance. |
I didn't really hear very much - it was so loud - I just felt a rush of dust passing over my face and then my ears popped. | I didn't really hear very much - it was so loud - I just felt a rush of dust passing over my face and then my ears popped. |
After the dust and my nerves started to settle, I asked one of the miners how he felt when he saw an emerald. He told me that he forgot the hardship and fatigue of a year's work. | After the dust and my nerves started to settle, I asked one of the miners how he felt when he saw an emerald. He told me that he forgot the hardship and fatigue of a year's work. |
He then motioned to go back up the shaft to see whether the explosion had hit a seam of emeralds. | He then motioned to go back up the shaft to see whether the explosion had hit a seam of emeralds. |
But I decided not to take him up on the offer. | But I decided not to take him up on the offer. |
To be perfectly honest, I'd had enough for one day - emeralds or no emeralds. | To be perfectly honest, I'd had enough for one day - emeralds or no emeralds. |
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