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Modest cabaret divides Morocco | Modest cabaret divides Morocco |
(about 7 hours later) | |
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See the Folies de Marrakech in action | See the Folies de Marrakech in action |
By James Copnall BBC News, Marrakech | |
Say the word cabaret, and you think straight away of lines of scantily-clad can-can girls kicking their legs in the Moulin Rouge or Folies Bergeres in Paris. | Say the word cabaret, and you think straight away of lines of scantily-clad can-can girls kicking their legs in the Moulin Rouge or Folies Bergeres in Paris. |
But now cabaret has come to Morocco - and there is not a topless girl in sight. | But now cabaret has come to Morocco - and there is not a topless girl in sight. |
Folies de Marrakech has been toned down to fit in better with local cultural norms in this Muslim country. | Folies de Marrakech has been toned down to fit in better with local cultural norms in this Muslim country. |
But even so the dancers have been kicking up controversy. | But even so the dancers have been kicking up controversy. |
You have to forget the G-string - forget, forget, forget. But that's not what is important to me Claude ThomasCabaret performer | You have to forget the G-string - forget, forget, forget. But that's not what is important to me Claude ThomasCabaret performer |
Claude Thomas, a veteran of cabarets in France, Las Vegas and Reno, is the creative inspiration behind the show. | Claude Thomas, a veteran of cabarets in France, Las Vegas and Reno, is the creative inspiration behind the show. |
He cultivates a reverence for Jonny Halliday, and there are several pictures of the ageing French rocker stuck up in his dressing room. | He cultivates a reverence for Jonny Halliday, and there are several pictures of the ageing French rocker stuck up in his dressing room. |
He says he had to sacrifice a few cabaret favourites to the taste of the performers and the public. | He says he had to sacrifice a few cabaret favourites to the taste of the performers and the public. |
"Here you have to forget the G-string - forget, forget, forget," he exclaims, with perhaps a touch of regret. | "Here you have to forget the G-string - forget, forget, forget," he exclaims, with perhaps a touch of regret. |
"But that's not what is important to me. I need my staff to be very happy." | "But that's not what is important to me. I need my staff to be very happy." |
Change of image | Change of image |
The performers trained for nearly a year before the doors first opened, and Mr Thomas said he took into account some of their reservations about the risque nature of some of the routines. | The performers trained for nearly a year before the doors first opened, and Mr Thomas said he took into account some of their reservations about the risque nature of some of the routines. |
The performers come from diverse backgrounds - some were professional dancers, others students; one was a member of the national gymnastics team; and several came from a circus school for street children. | The performers come from diverse backgrounds - some were professional dancers, others students; one was a member of the national gymnastics team; and several came from a circus school for street children. |
Dancers here, especially oriental dancers, they are not accepted, because they are attractive AminaDancer | Dancers here, especially oriental dancers, they are not accepted, because they are attractive AminaDancer |
Mr Thomas proudly says they all receive a regular and decent wage, which is not always the case in the arts world here. | Mr Thomas proudly says they all receive a regular and decent wage, which is not always the case in the arts world here. |
But all the same many of the performers had to think twice before joining the cabaret. | But all the same many of the performers had to think twice before joining the cabaret. |
The word itself has negative connotations in Morocco, conjuring up images of seedy late-night revues which merge with brothels in the popular imagination - and often in reality. | The word itself has negative connotations in Morocco, conjuring up images of seedy late-night revues which merge with brothels in the popular imagination - and often in reality. |
The staff of the Folies de Marrakech have been told to refer to it as "music hall" rather than cabaret to escape this trap. | The staff of the Folies de Marrakech have been told to refer to it as "music hall" rather than cabaret to escape this trap. |
But that hasn't taken away the stigma. | But that hasn't taken away the stigma. |
Amina, a young dancer, couldn't face telling her father she was leaving her studies to join the cabaret - so she pretended she had a job as a waitress. | Amina, a young dancer, couldn't face telling her father she was leaving her studies to join the cabaret - so she pretended she had a job as a waitress. |
"Dancers here, especially oriental dancers, they are not accepted, because they are attractive. It's difficult. We are Muslims, and we cannot attract people except our husbands." | "Dancers here, especially oriental dancers, they are not accepted, because they are attractive. It's difficult. We are Muslims, and we cannot attract people except our husbands." |
Folies de Marrakech has been criticised for its dance routines, and because alcohol is served at the venue - though the latter can be said of many place in Morocco. | Folies de Marrakech has been criticised for its dance routines, and because alcohol is served at the venue - though the latter can be said of many place in Morocco. |
"I think that the Moroccan audience, that the majority of Moroccans, don't appreciate this kind of cabaret," says Youness Benslimane, from the moderate Islamist PJD party. | "I think that the Moroccan audience, that the majority of Moroccans, don't appreciate this kind of cabaret," says Youness Benslimane, from the moderate Islamist PJD party. |
"People like dancing and singing. But a style of cabaret like the Moulin Rouge, I don't think Moroccans are ready to accept this kind of show." | "People like dancing and singing. But a style of cabaret like the Moulin Rouge, I don't think Moroccans are ready to accept this kind of show." |
Smile | Smile |
All the same, the fact the cabaret is here at all is testimony to Marrakech's open nature. | All the same, the fact the cabaret is here at all is testimony to Marrakech's open nature. |
The city's monuments, history, scenic location and - yes - nightlife attract millions of people every year. It's not quite Moulin Rouge but it is racy for Morocco | The city's monuments, history, scenic location and - yes - nightlife attract millions of people every year. It's not quite Moulin Rouge but it is racy for Morocco |
Tourism is a big part of Morocco's economy, and this regular influx of foreigners, combined with a slow change in Moroccan society, encouraged the cabaret owners to set up here. | Tourism is a big part of Morocco's economy, and this regular influx of foreigners, combined with a slow change in Moroccan society, encouraged the cabaret owners to set up here. |
It probably would not have been possible a few years ago. | It probably would not have been possible a few years ago. |
Folies de Marrakech is a giant venue, which seats more than 1,000 people, on the road out of Marrakech. It isn't always full. | Folies de Marrakech is a giant venue, which seats more than 1,000 people, on the road out of Marrakech. It isn't always full. |
But those who go - a mixture of wealthy Europeans, Gulf Arabs and Moroccans - have positive things to say. | But those who go - a mixture of wealthy Europeans, Gulf Arabs and Moroccans - have positive things to say. |
"It's Western, but it's also Moroccan, it's also Persian, it's a mix. And here in Morocco we love mixing things," points out a young man in a suit and tie. | "It's Western, but it's also Moroccan, it's also Persian, it's a mix. And here in Morocco we love mixing things," points out a young man in a suit and tie. |
"You can always find people that will criticise it and say it is un-Islamic, but I don't think it will be a majority - I really hope not," adds a woman with a smile. | "You can always find people that will criticise it and say it is un-Islamic, but I don't think it will be a majority - I really hope not," adds a woman with a smile. |
Folies de Marrakech's ambition is sizeable. | Folies de Marrakech's ambition is sizeable. |
However for all the show tunes and the sparkle, Morocco's first cabaret still hasn't proved it can succeed commercially. | However for all the show tunes and the sparkle, Morocco's first cabaret still hasn't proved it can succeed commercially. |
But the very fact it is here at all is a sign of how the country is changing. | But the very fact it is here at all is a sign of how the country is changing. |
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