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The Nuance of an Emerald Green Watch Brand The Nuance of an Emerald Green Watch Band
(17 days later)
When World War I trench warfare made the pocket watch impractical, the wristwatch became popular.When World War I trench warfare made the pocket watch impractical, the wristwatch became popular.
And so did leather watch straps. Strong, damage resistant and supple, leather was easy to work with, and to mass produce.And so did leather watch straps. Strong, damage resistant and supple, leather was easy to work with, and to mass produce.
Today, the traditional techniques of leather work are still practiced in the ateliers of Groupe Créations Perrin, produced by 160 craftsmen — or, rather, craftswomen.Today, the traditional techniques of leather work are still practiced in the ateliers of Groupe Créations Perrin, produced by 160 craftsmen — or, rather, craftswomen.
“If you’re looking at parity in our company, forget about it,” said Eric Anthonioz, 53, the director general. “Men are in the minority. About 90 percent of our artisans are women.” They are more skillful, he said, in operating the machinery as well as doing handwork.“If you’re looking at parity in our company, forget about it,” said Eric Anthonioz, 53, the director general. “Men are in the minority. About 90 percent of our artisans are women.” They are more skillful, he said, in operating the machinery as well as doing handwork.
The company traces its origins to 1869, in Le Locle, Switzerland, when Samuel Schweizer opened a leather bookbinding atelier. He later teamed with Edouard Schoepf to create leather watch straps, using the label Schweizer & Schoepf. Then, in 1984, the French master saddle maker Jean-Claude Perrin established Créations Perrin in the Picardy region of France to make straps and small leather goods.The company traces its origins to 1869, in Le Locle, Switzerland, when Samuel Schweizer opened a leather bookbinding atelier. He later teamed with Edouard Schoepf to create leather watch straps, using the label Schweizer & Schoepf. Then, in 1984, the French master saddle maker Jean-Claude Perrin established Créations Perrin in the Picardy region of France to make straps and small leather goods.
Finally, in 2012, the companies merged to create what is today Groupe Créations Perrin, with three workrooms in France (Tergnier, Allenjoie and Orchamps-Vennes) and one in Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds).Finally, in 2012, the companies merged to create what is today Groupe Créations Perrin, with three workrooms in France (Tergnier, Allenjoie and Orchamps-Vennes) and one in Switzerland (La Chaux-de-Fonds).
Perrin supplies the top end of the luxury watch market, but it will not disclose how many straps it makes annually.Perrin supplies the top end of the luxury watch market, but it will not disclose how many straps it makes annually.
Its straps end up all over the world, however, and they are particularly popular in Japan. Takami Anai, a representative of the luxury watch shop Ginza Rasin in Tokyo, said he was impressed with Perrin’s quality and particularly the colors.Its straps end up all over the world, however, and they are particularly popular in Japan. Takami Anai, a representative of the luxury watch shop Ginza Rasin in Tokyo, said he was impressed with Perrin’s quality and particularly the colors.
“This variation of colors on leather is something that’s impossible to achieve in Japan,” he said. “Take emerald green, for example — they have so many nuances.“This variation of colors on leather is something that’s impossible to achieve in Japan,” he said. “Take emerald green, for example — they have so many nuances.
“It’s handmade, hand sewn, and the condition of the leather is so high, which makes a difference in how the color appears,” he said.“It’s handmade, hand sewn, and the condition of the leather is so high, which makes a difference in how the color appears,” he said.
His shop has a small selection of Perrin ready-to-wear straps, but it primarily sells custom-made options. “They appeal to serious watch collectors, the experts, usually of the older generation, as they appreciate the quality,” Mr. Anai said. “Japanese customers usually love the black or dark brown colors. And those experts can tell that there’s even nuance variations within those black and dark brown tones since the Perrin quality is so high.”His shop has a small selection of Perrin ready-to-wear straps, but it primarily sells custom-made options. “They appeal to serious watch collectors, the experts, usually of the older generation, as they appreciate the quality,” Mr. Anai said. “Japanese customers usually love the black or dark brown colors. And those experts can tell that there’s even nuance variations within those black and dark brown tones since the Perrin quality is so high.”
Perrin’s men’s and women’s straps come in skins such as alligator, caiman, ostrich, shark, calf and python, and range from basic colors to custom hues, which also may have custom embroidery. An alligator strap, for example, sells for about 100 euros ($117), but a custom order can be much more.Perrin’s men’s and women’s straps come in skins such as alligator, caiman, ostrich, shark, calf and python, and range from basic colors to custom hues, which also may have custom embroidery. An alligator strap, for example, sells for about 100 euros ($117), but a custom order can be much more.
The company prides itself in its handmade, locally produced leather bands, which qualify to use Made in France and Swiss Made labeling. “Sure, those are nice labels,” Mr. Anthonioz said, “but if you look behind the curtain at other manufacturers, some only cut their leather in France then send everything abroad to be assembled, yet those items are still labeled Made in France.”The company prides itself in its handmade, locally produced leather bands, which qualify to use Made in France and Swiss Made labeling. “Sure, those are nice labels,” Mr. Anthonioz said, “but if you look behind the curtain at other manufacturers, some only cut their leather in France then send everything abroad to be assembled, yet those items are still labeled Made in France.”
“We aim to be completely transparent,” he said, “and we have no problem saying, ‘Come to our ateliers, you can see how it’s made, as your orders will be made here in France and Switzerland, and not elsewhere’.” (Perrin is allowed to use the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant, or Living Heritage Companies, label — the French government acknowledges artisanal and industrial savoir-faire by permitting qualifying companies to use the label for five-year periods.)“We aim to be completely transparent,” he said, “and we have no problem saying, ‘Come to our ateliers, you can see how it’s made, as your orders will be made here in France and Switzerland, and not elsewhere’.” (Perrin is allowed to use the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant, or Living Heritage Companies, label — the French government acknowledges artisanal and industrial savoir-faire by permitting qualifying companies to use the label for five-year periods.)
The company has said it complies with the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, or CITES, a multilateral treaty that protects endangered plants and animals to ensure that international trade does not threaten the survival of species. Perrin also requires its suppliers to verify that they meet European Union regulations for chemical standards and other processes.The company has said it complies with the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, or CITES, a multilateral treaty that protects endangered plants and animals to ensure that international trade does not threaten the survival of species. Perrin also requires its suppliers to verify that they meet European Union regulations for chemical standards and other processes.
Crafting each strap requires a minimum of 65 operations; on average, 80. If all those operations are done consecutively, Perrin said, it takes about an hour to complete a single strap. It specializes in two finishes: the sellier coupé (the strap’s cut edges are tinted, waxed and sewn with a thick thread) and the rembordé (the top layer of leather is folded around a lining). “Everything is handmade, every stitch is hand-sewn,” Mr. Anthonioz said.Crafting each strap requires a minimum of 65 operations; on average, 80. If all those operations are done consecutively, Perrin said, it takes about an hour to complete a single strap. It specializes in two finishes: the sellier coupé (the strap’s cut edges are tinted, waxed and sewn with a thick thread) and the rembordé (the top layer of leather is folded around a lining). “Everything is handmade, every stitch is hand-sewn,” Mr. Anthonioz said.
“You can witness a particular emotion in our ateliers, to see the work on our bracelets, the smell of the leather,” he said. “Our craftsmen pour their soul in the fabrication of bracelets. We succeeded in perpetuating the savoir-faire, both on the Swiss and French sides, of our master saddlers.”“You can witness a particular emotion in our ateliers, to see the work on our bracelets, the smell of the leather,” he said. “Our craftsmen pour their soul in the fabrication of bracelets. We succeeded in perpetuating the savoir-faire, both on the Swiss and French sides, of our master saddlers.”
The company has adopted 3-D printing and laser cutting, and is considering the use of robots. The workers perform gestures that “can be very repetitive and cause musculoskeletal troubles,” Mr. Anthonioz said. “Those machines don’t replace the traditional gestures, but simply assist them.”The company has adopted 3-D printing and laser cutting, and is considering the use of robots. The workers perform gestures that “can be very repetitive and cause musculoskeletal troubles,” Mr. Anthonioz said. “Those machines don’t replace the traditional gestures, but simply assist them.”
As part of its efforts to address such issues, the company holds a daily 10-minute morning warm-up session for the artisans, similar to the calisthenics often done in factories and businesses in Asia. “A physiotherapist came to meet all the staff individually and recommended exercises,” Mr. Anthonioz said, “some communal and some specific to each person.”As part of its efforts to address such issues, the company holds a daily 10-minute morning warm-up session for the artisans, similar to the calisthenics often done in factories and businesses in Asia. “A physiotherapist came to meet all the staff individually and recommended exercises,” Mr. Anthonioz said, “some communal and some specific to each person.”
Perrin celebrated its 150th anniversary last year before the pandemic turned the world upside down. The spread of the virus, and the efforts to control it, hindered sales.Perrin celebrated its 150th anniversary last year before the pandemic turned the world upside down. The spread of the virus, and the efforts to control it, hindered sales.
“We have stocks because our clients did not sell during lockdown,” he said. “We have to go through both an economic crisis and the unsold stocks of our clients, as they won’t order again until they sell those.”“We have stocks because our clients did not sell during lockdown,” he said. “We have to go through both an economic crisis and the unsold stocks of our clients, as they won’t order again until they sell those.”
The pandemic, however, has had a positive side for the company. “It forced us to take a step back and set up a strategy. Not a 10-year one, that’s over. But five years maximum,” Mr. Anthonioz said, noting that the plans include new strap materials, after-sales service and an expansion of its small leather goods sector.The pandemic, however, has had a positive side for the company. “It forced us to take a step back and set up a strategy. Not a 10-year one, that’s over. But five years maximum,” Mr. Anthonioz said, noting that the plans include new strap materials, after-sales service and an expansion of its small leather goods sector.
The pandemic is unlikely to destroy leather work as a craft, Mr. Anthonioz said, particularly because “young people were interested in métiers d’art.The pandemic is unlikely to destroy leather work as a craft, Mr. Anthonioz said, particularly because “young people were interested in métiers d’art.
The company recruits graduates from schools such as École Boudard and Lycée Les Huisselets in France, which have renowned leather handicraft programs, and then gives those new hires additional training. “These trades had been denigrated for a while, but they’re coming back,” Mr. Anthonioz said. “Youth today are aware of the concept of pleasure and don’t want to be stuck in a boring job. My generation was not educated like that.”The company recruits graduates from schools such as École Boudard and Lycée Les Huisselets in France, which have renowned leather handicraft programs, and then gives those new hires additional training. “These trades had been denigrated for a while, but they’re coming back,” Mr. Anthonioz said. “Youth today are aware of the concept of pleasure and don’t want to be stuck in a boring job. My generation was not educated like that.”
There are young people working for the company now, he said. “It feels good. They force us to think outside the box and step out of our comfort zone.”There are young people working for the company now, he said. “It feels good. They force us to think outside the box and step out of our comfort zone.”