By Tom Geoghegan BBC News Magazine With the loss-making Little Chef is sold to new owners, the former king of roadside cuisine has one last chance to turn itself around. But how? One food critic samples the fare and has a few helpful suggestions.
By Tom Geoghegan BBC News Magazine With the loss-making Little Chef in new hands, how can one of Britain's best-known brands win customer back? A food critic samples the fare and has a few helpful suggestions.
"We're open and we're happy," is the chirpy telephone response from Little Chef in Hockliffe, on day one of life in the hands of its new owners.
"We're open and we're happy," is the chirpy telephone response from Little Chef in Hockliffe, on day one of life in the hands of its new owners.
Thirty-nine of the 235 branches had closed overnight, including food critic Nigel Barden's first choice for brunch, Bricket Wood in Hertfordshire, where a notice stuck on a locked door told the sorry tale in a dozen words.
Thirty-nine of the 235 branches had closed overnight, including food critic Nigel Barden's first choice for brunch, Bricket Wood in Hertfordshire, where a notice stuck on a locked door told the sorry tale in a dozen words.
But the Hockliffe branch, a 30-minute drive up the M1 into Bedfordshire, is open for business, nestled, as it is, alongside a Travelodge on the A5.
But the Hockliffe branch, a 30-minute drive up the M1 into Bedfordshire, is open for business, nestled, as it is, alongside a Travelodge on the A5.
The menu needs a revamp, says food critic Nigel Barden
The menu needs a revamp, says food critic Nigel Barden
Everything looks just as it did as a child, with wooden partitions separating the tables, a speckled carpet, checked curtains, clean toilets, an open kitchen and a friendly waitress.
Everything looks just as it did as a child, with wooden partitions separating the tables, a speckled carpet, checked curtains, clean toilets, an open kitchen and a friendly waitress.
The look is borrowed from the US diners which inspired Sam Alper to open the first Little Chef in Reading in 1958.
The look is borrowed from the US diners which inspired Sam Alper to open the first Little Chef in Reading in 1958.
"Even the curtains are 'mum's apple pie'. It's home-on-the-range, the Waltons-meets-Little Chef," says Barden, who believes the firm's consistency - "you know what you're getting" - is one of its strengths.
"Even the curtains are 'mum's apple pie'. It's home-on-the-range, the Waltons-meets-Little Chef," says Barden, who believes the firm's consistency - "you know what you're getting" - is one of its strengths.
But there are only three other customers dotted around the dining area - a shadow of the clamouring crowds one might expect, given it is one of Britain's best-known brands.
But there are only three other customers dotted around the dining area - a shadow of the clamouring crowds one might expect, given it is one of Britain's best-known brands.
'Processed'
'Processed'
What has also changed is the menu. Still wedded to the fry-up, it makes some concessions to more contemporary tastes, with ciabatta sandwiches and toasted paninis. Both, however, are off today's menu because the deliveries have not arrived.
What has also changed is the menu. Still wedded to the fry-up, it makes some concessions to more contemporary tastes, with ciabatta sandwiches and toasted paninis. Both, however, are off today's menu because the deliveries have not arrived.
Little Chef's famed Olympic Breakfast looks like it could feed a family for a week. And at £6.99, it's not bad value, although the menu is, apparently, seen as over-priced by many customers. But is the Olympic a podium winner for our expert?
Little Chef's famed Olympic Breakfast looks like it could feed a family for a week. And at £6.99, it's not bad value, although the menu is, apparently, seen as over-priced by many customers. But is the Olympic a podium winner for our expert?
"It's not the most exciting but it's how I imagined," says Barden. "It's a bit processed but the sausage is tastier than I thought. At least they don't use a lot of oil because they cook it on a griddle pan."
"It's not the most exciting but it's how I imagined," says Barden. "It's a bit processed but the sausage is tastier than I thought. At least they don't use a lot of oil because they cook it on a griddle pan."
THE OLD... Olympic breakfast £6.99 (above)Pie of the day £6.99Classic burger £5.99
THE OLD... Olympic breakfast £6.99 (above)Pie of the day £6.99Classic burger £5.99
This is a sachet-free restaurant, so full marks for the bottled sauces. And while Barden is impressed by the chicken in the Caesar salad, he thinks the dish "over-dressed" and the oily croutons lack crunch.
This is a sachet-free restaurant, so full marks for the bottled sauces. And while Barden is impressed by the chicken in the Caesar salad, he thinks the dish "over-dressed" and the oily croutons lack crunch.
Efforts to adapt to a modern audience are, however, clear. The sausages are "outdoor-reared", the eggs free-range and, in these brand-aware times, the logos of Heinz, Young's and New Covent Garden pepper the menu card.
Efforts to adapt to a modern audience are, however, clear. The sausages are "outdoor-reared", the eggs free-range and, in these brand-aware times, the logos of Heinz, Young's and New Covent Garden pepper the menu card.
Despite such efforts, the chips are most certainly down for the chain. Chief executive Simon Heath has said as much, seeing it as "out of date". The coffee poster on the wall could not have expressed the burning question any better: "Need a little pick-me-up?"
Despite such efforts, the chips are most certainly down for the chain. Chief executive Simon Heath has said as much, seeing it as "out of date". The coffee poster on the wall could not have expressed the burning question any better: "Need a little pick-me-up?"
...AND THE NEW Steak and caramelised onion ciabatta £6.45Grilled pepper and red onion panini £5.25New Covent Garden soup £2.99Warm poached salmon £6.45
...AND THE NEW Steak and caramelised onion ciabatta £6.45Grilled pepper and red onion panini £5.25New Covent Garden soup £2.99Warm poached salmon £6.45
But it will take more than a blueberry muffin and a passable cappuccino to steer Little Chef out of the doldrums.
But it will take more than a blueberry muffin and a passable cappuccino to steer Little Chef out of the doldrums.
Mr Heath says it has suffered at the hands of increased competition from revamped service stations and big names like Marks & Spencer expanding to the motorways.
Mr Heath says it has suffered at the hands of increased competition from revamped service stations and big names like Marks & Spencer expanding to the motorways.
Barden agrees. "They've been overtaken by culinary events. People look for a different style of dining," says the critic, who believes it wouldn't have a "prayer of survival" were it on any High Street.
Barden agrees. "They've been overtaken by culinary events. People look for a different style of dining," says the critic, who believes it wouldn't have a "prayer of survival" were it on any High Street.
"You could keep the breakfast on but you have to be seen to be offering something different. They should make the salads and healthy options as good as they can. Get produce as fresh as possible.
"You could keep the breakfast on but you have to be seen to be offering something different. They should make the salads and healthy options as good as they can. Get produce as fresh as possible.
"If you look around the walls, all the pictures are bacon and eggs and fresh puddings. There's nothing to suggest healthy options here."
"If you look around the walls, all the pictures are bacon and eggs and fresh puddings. There's nothing to suggest healthy options here."
Faded decor
Faded decor
Inspire the staff to push the other options, he adds, and get family-friendly with organic baby food and facilities for warming bottles up. And update the decor. "It looks a bit lived-in. The carpets and chairs have had quite a tough life."
Inspire the staff to push the other options, he adds, and get family-friendly with organic baby food and facilities for warming bottles up. And update the decor. "It looks a bit lived-in. The carpets and chairs have had quite a tough life."
Spirits remain high, despite the uncertainty
Spirits remain high, despite the uncertainty
But modernisation doesn't sit well with Little Chef's biggest fans - its mascot, Fat Charlie, survived a controversial plan to slim him down a few years ago. He represents a strong brand which customers like David Griffiths, 39, recognise.
But modernisation doesn't sit well with Little Chef's biggest fans - its mascot, Fat Charlie, survived a controversial plan to slim him down a few years ago. He represents a strong brand which customers like David Griffiths, 39, recognise.
Tucking into his toasted tea cakes on the way back from Heathrow to Northamptonshire, he says Little Chef is "good for a cup of tea and you can't beat the breakfast".
Tucking into his toasted tea cakes on the way back from Heathrow to Northamptonshire, he says Little Chef is "good for a cup of tea and you can't beat the breakfast".
"McDonalds are in-and-out places, here you get served at the table. It was a big treat when you're a kid and it hasn't changed. Maybe that's their downfall."
"McDonalds are in-and-out places, here you get served at the table. It was a big treat when you're a kid and it hasn't changed. Maybe that's their downfall."
But the week's events are not just about brands and balance sheets. As one member of staff noted, "imagine coming into work and being told you don't have a job tomorrow".
But the week's events are not just about brands and balance sheets. As one member of staff noted, "imagine coming into work and being told you don't have a job tomorrow".
Add your comments on this story, using the form below.
Add your comments on this story, using the form below.
