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An Intimate Look at Italy’s Saffron Harvest | An Intimate Look at Italy’s Saffron Harvest |
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With travel restrictions in place worldwide, we’ve launched a new series, The World Through a Lens, in which photojournalists help transport you, virtually, to some of our planet’s most beautiful and intriguing places. This week, Susan Wright shares a collection of photographs from a saffron harvest in the Abruzzo region of Italy. | With travel restrictions in place worldwide, we’ve launched a new series, The World Through a Lens, in which photojournalists help transport you, virtually, to some of our planet’s most beautiful and intriguing places. This week, Susan Wright shares a collection of photographs from a saffron harvest in the Abruzzo region of Italy. |
Italy’s Abruzzo region, although remote, has not been spared from the devastation of the coronavirus pandemic. The area has reported thousands of cases and hundreds of deaths. | Italy’s Abruzzo region, although remote, has not been spared from the devastation of the coronavirus pandemic. The area has reported thousands of cases and hundreds of deaths. |
A few years ago, though, in happier times, I traveled to this isolated corner of Italy, east of the Apennine Mountains, to photograph the annual autumn saffron harvest. | A few years ago, though, in happier times, I traveled to this isolated corner of Italy, east of the Apennine Mountains, to photograph the annual autumn saffron harvest. |
It was my first adventure across the country’s rugged central mountains — to the wilder side, away from the popular tourist spots, where the terrain is pristine and sleepy medieval villages are scattered throughout the pretty foothills. | It was my first adventure across the country’s rugged central mountains — to the wilder side, away from the popular tourist spots, where the terrain is pristine and sleepy medieval villages are scattered throughout the pretty foothills. |
Having grown up in a rural setting in Australia, I was fascinated by the Italian agricultural communities: their deep connection to centuries-old traditions, and the infusion of their land and culture with an infectious love and passion. | Having grown up in a rural setting in Australia, I was fascinated by the Italian agricultural communities: their deep connection to centuries-old traditions, and the infusion of their land and culture with an infectious love and passion. |
How wonderful that these rural communities throughout Italy come together for their annual festivals, known as sagre, which are often dedicated to a specific local food. | How wonderful that these rural communities throughout Italy come together for their annual festivals, known as sagre, which are often dedicated to a specific local food. |
Giovannina Sarra (often called the Saffron Queen) and her family hosted me and a handful of others at their home. Early in the morning, in the Navelli plateau, we fanned out among the misty, violet-tinged fields and participated in the harvest. | Giovannina Sarra (often called the Saffron Queen) and her family hosted me and a handful of others at their home. Early in the morning, in the Navelli plateau, we fanned out among the misty, violet-tinged fields and participated in the harvest. |
Saffron, which is taken from the stigmas of the saffron crocus, is a lucrative crop. Also called oro rosso, or red gold, it was first introduced into the region around the 13th century — an import from Spain. Prized as an exotic spice, it was sold in the wealthier regions and cities of Milan and Venice, and abroad in France, Germany and Austria. | Saffron, which is taken from the stigmas of the saffron crocus, is a lucrative crop. Also called oro rosso, or red gold, it was first introduced into the region around the 13th century — an import from Spain. Prized as an exotic spice, it was sold in the wealthier regions and cities of Milan and Venice, and abroad in France, Germany and Austria. |
Saffron is harvested in the hours just before sunrise, while the crocus petals remain closed; this makes the flowers easier to pick and helps protect their precious crimson-red stigmas. The delicate buds are handpicked and placed into baskets. | Saffron is harvested in the hours just before sunrise, while the crocus petals remain closed; this makes the flowers easier to pick and helps protect their precious crimson-red stigmas. The delicate buds are handpicked and placed into baskets. |
Later, on the same day, the stigmas — three tiny threads per flower — are separated from the moist petals. It’s a delicate process that takes hours with a skilled and patient hand. | Later, on the same day, the stigmas — three tiny threads per flower — are separated from the moist petals. It’s a delicate process that takes hours with a skilled and patient hand. |
In the evening, over an open wood fire, the bright threadlike stigmas are dried in wire baskets, a process that adds to the richness of both the color and the flavor. | In the evening, over an open wood fire, the bright threadlike stigmas are dried in wire baskets, a process that adds to the richness of both the color and the flavor. |
It takes roughly 4,000 flowers to make one ounce of saffron powder — which means there’s a staggering amount of labor packed into the tiny containers in which the spice is sold. | It takes roughly 4,000 flowers to make one ounce of saffron powder — which means there’s a staggering amount of labor packed into the tiny containers in which the spice is sold. |
Not long ago, when I sat down to a mouthwatering plate of Risotto alla Milanese (a dish that’s infused with saffron), I recalled the early misty morning I spent with Gina Sarra and her family. | |
Ms. Sarra, I was saddened to learn, died in 2018. The saffron cooperative she and her family helped organize in the early 1970s is struggling now with market closures. And it will be a long time before life in Italy — for many weeks the epicenter of the coronavirus outbreak in Europe — returns to normal. | Ms. Sarra, I was saddened to learn, died in 2018. The saffron cooperative she and her family helped organize in the early 1970s is struggling now with market closures. And it will be a long time before life in Italy — for many weeks the epicenter of the coronavirus outbreak in Europe — returns to normal. |
But there’s no doubt that families like the Sarras will one day return to the restorative power of their sagre — and to the many traditions that have endured for generations in the fields of the Navelli plateau and beyond. | But there’s no doubt that families like the Sarras will one day return to the restorative power of their sagre — and to the many traditions that have endured for generations in the fields of the Navelli plateau and beyond. |
Susan Wright is an Australian photographer based in Italy, where she has lived since 2003. | Susan Wright is an Australian photographer based in Italy, where she has lived since 2003. |