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I Used to Run 20 Miles at a Time. Now I’m Tracing a GPS Snail. I Used to Run 20 Miles at a Time. Now I’m Tracing a GPS Snail.
(8 days later)
FORCALQUIER, France — Last Saturday, I got pulled over by the police for the first time ever. I was running, not driving, when the dark blue van pulled up behind me and the officer told me to stop on the side of a dusty road in Provence. My heart was already pumping hard from the steady incline, but my breath quickened when they asked where I lived and requested my “attestation.”FORCALQUIER, France — Last Saturday, I got pulled over by the police for the first time ever. I was running, not driving, when the dark blue van pulled up behind me and the officer told me to stop on the side of a dusty road in Provence. My heart was already pumping hard from the steady incline, but my breath quickened when they asked where I lived and requested my “attestation.”
I struggled to free the small slip of paper from the teeth of the zipper of my shorts’ pocket, declaring “on my honor” that I’d left the house for one of the seven permitted reasons.I struggled to free the small slip of paper from the teeth of the zipper of my shorts’ pocket, declaring “on my honor” that I’d left the house for one of the seven permitted reasons.
From my attestation, the officers verified my address and what time I had left home (11:38 a.m.). It was only 12:02 p.m., so I was well within my allotted daily hour of outdoor exercise, but I was pushing the permitted one-kilometer radius from home. According to my watch, I was still in range, but the French police officers said they knew distances in this small rural town better than the GPS.From my attestation, the officers verified my address and what time I had left home (11:38 a.m.). It was only 12:02 p.m., so I was well within my allotted daily hour of outdoor exercise, but I was pushing the permitted one-kilometer radius from home. According to my watch, I was still in range, but the French police officers said they knew distances in this small rural town better than the GPS.
Still, they let me go with a warning, so long as I turned around “à la courbe de la route.”Still, they let me go with a warning, so long as I turned around “à la courbe de la route.”
The officers drove off, heading toward Les Mourres, a nearby regional open space where locals were still sneaking away to hike and run. Once the police car disappeared, I sprinted, cutting across the empty town square and ending my run early. I was so relieved to avoid a $145 fine. I’m in grad school; I can’t afford that.The officers drove off, heading toward Les Mourres, a nearby regional open space where locals were still sneaking away to hike and run. Once the police car disappeared, I sprinted, cutting across the empty town square and ending my run early. I was so relieved to avoid a $145 fine. I’m in grad school; I can’t afford that.
The first week after France imposed its national quarantine on March 17 was sort of bliss — if you’re a runner. Everything was canceled but the trails remained open. Then France tightened restrictions. Outdoor exercise is now permitted once per day, alone, within one-kilometer (0.6 mile) of your home.The first week after France imposed its national quarantine on March 17 was sort of bliss — if you’re a runner. Everything was canceled but the trails remained open. Then France tightened restrictions. Outdoor exercise is now permitted once per day, alone, within one-kilometer (0.6 mile) of your home.
Pre-lockdown, as a student in Paris, I ran between three and 20 miles a day. During quarantine, I wanted to keep moving, safely within the new constraints. So I started drawing shapes with my routes, mapping the GPS data using the fitness app Strava. Since I’m spending the quarantine in Provence, I started with a snail, for the signature local escargot. My route has cobblestones, dirt roads, single-track trails and stairs. To draw the spiral shell, I ran to the citadel on top of the hill. A bit of levity makes hill sprints more tolerable.Pre-lockdown, as a student in Paris, I ran between three and 20 miles a day. During quarantine, I wanted to keep moving, safely within the new constraints. So I started drawing shapes with my routes, mapping the GPS data using the fitness app Strava. Since I’m spending the quarantine in Provence, I started with a snail, for the signature local escargot. My route has cobblestones, dirt roads, single-track trails and stairs. To draw the spiral shell, I ran to the citadel on top of the hill. A bit of levity makes hill sprints more tolerable.
The moose is my second favorite drawing, but the route is less enjoyable. I ran across two grocery store parking lots, a closed gas station and a dump for that one.The moose is my second favorite drawing, but the route is less enjoyable. I ran across two grocery store parking lots, a closed gas station and a dump for that one.
For inspiration, I’ve asked my friends to send me shape requests. The praying mantis went less well — I’ll call it abstract art — and I haven’t quite figured out how to draw a portrait of my friend Griffin’s face.For inspiration, I’ve asked my friends to send me shape requests. The praying mantis went less well — I’ll call it abstract art — and I haven’t quite figured out how to draw a portrait of my friend Griffin’s face.
In solidarity, I’m exchanging StravART with Marie Aufrere, a fellow runner quarantined in France. Marie and I met last winter in my hometown in Colorado. Originally from the French Alps, Marie returned to be with her family when the pandemic grew serious. We reconnected during quarantine through Strava.In solidarity, I’m exchanging StravART with Marie Aufrere, a fellow runner quarantined in France. Marie and I met last winter in my hometown in Colorado. Originally from the French Alps, Marie returned to be with her family when the pandemic grew serious. We reconnected during quarantine through Strava.
“I’m very active, so I started to panic when I heard ‘confinement,’” she told me. “But I love drawing. It gives me a goal when I don’t have a goal.”“I’m very active, so I started to panic when I heard ‘confinement,’” she told me. “But I love drawing. It gives me a goal when I don’t have a goal.”
Marie went off-roading to get her drawing right.Marie went off-roading to get her drawing right.
“I ran through a field so that I could get the cow’s tail. I hope no one saw me,” she laughed.“I ran through a field so that I could get the cow’s tail. I hope no one saw me,” she laughed.
Among trail runners, there’s a community solidarity, and professional athletes are sharing how they are adapting to their new realities. Elite runners like Hillary Allen and Killian Jornet started quarantine challenges to inspire runners everywhere to keep moving.Among trail runners, there’s a community solidarity, and professional athletes are sharing how they are adapting to their new realities. Elite runners like Hillary Allen and Killian Jornet started quarantine challenges to inspire runners everywhere to keep moving.
This week, Ms. Allen completed a workout with a carrot dangling from a stick in front of her face. Ms. Allen moved to France from Colorado to train in the Alps. She can run only up and down one kilometer along a dirt frontage road, so she’s using weird workouts to stay motivated.This week, Ms. Allen completed a workout with a carrot dangling from a stick in front of her face. Ms. Allen moved to France from Colorado to train in the Alps. She can run only up and down one kilometer along a dirt frontage road, so she’s using weird workouts to stay motivated.
“I want to be adventure-ready when this is over. Even chopping wood is good training,” she said.“I want to be adventure-ready when this is over. Even chopping wood is good training,” she said.
By some standards, one kilometer is generous. Britain, Italy and France all limit outdoor exercise. Like us in France, Britons can exercise outside only once per day. Italy’s rules are even stricter.By some standards, one kilometer is generous. Britain, Italy and France all limit outdoor exercise. Like us in France, Britons can exercise outside only once per day. Italy’s rules are even stricter.
When I told Tite Togi, an Italian mountain runner and yoga instructor, about the one-kilometer limit, she called me “lucky.” During the peak of the pandemic, she had only a 200-meter radius in the Veneto region. She would do the same loop around her small hut at the base of the Dolomites. When I told Tite Togni, an Italian mountain runner and yoga instructor, about the one-kilometer limit, she called me “lucky.” During the peak of the pandemic, she had only a 200-meter radius in the Veneto region. She would do the same loop around her small hut at the base of the Dolomites.
“It’s about being imaginative and adapting. I run the block two, five, 10, 20 times. The important thing is to keep doing it,” she told me.“It’s about being imaginative and adapting. I run the block two, five, 10, 20 times. The important thing is to keep doing it,” she told me.
We know we’re the lucky ones. In South Africa and some parts of Russia, including Moscow, outdoor exercise is banned. In France’s capital, there are even tighter limits than out here. As of April 7, Parisians can exercise only before 10 a.m. or after 7 p.m.We know we’re the lucky ones. In South Africa and some parts of Russia, including Moscow, outdoor exercise is banned. In France’s capital, there are even tighter limits than out here. As of April 7, Parisians can exercise only before 10 a.m. or after 7 p.m.
In Provence, spring is here. Small, daily changes emerge in my one-kilometer world. Yellow acacia and delicate white cherry blossoms mark the start of spring. I regularly pass the same elderly couple out on a walk. Today they were slowly collecting flowers and amassing a bouquet. We waved and said “bonjour.” A few moments later, I passed the Italian woman I usually see talking on the phone while walking her dog. This week, her mastiff started wearing a mask.In Provence, spring is here. Small, daily changes emerge in my one-kilometer world. Yellow acacia and delicate white cherry blossoms mark the start of spring. I regularly pass the same elderly couple out on a walk. Today they were slowly collecting flowers and amassing a bouquet. We waved and said “bonjour.” A few moments later, I passed the Italian woman I usually see talking on the phone while walking her dog. This week, her mastiff started wearing a mask.
Half a kilometer from home, there’s a secret single track trail through the trees that leads to an old stone church. When I first arrived, heavy rains muddied the path. Now the dirt is cracked and dusty. If the quarantine is prolonged, maybe I’ll be here during the hot, dry Provence summer, when it never rains and people hide from the midday sun in their stone houses. For now, it’s sunny and temperate. A few days ago it snowed. Sticky, fat flakes covered the terrace, and we made snow angels.Half a kilometer from home, there’s a secret single track trail through the trees that leads to an old stone church. When I first arrived, heavy rains muddied the path. Now the dirt is cracked and dusty. If the quarantine is prolonged, maybe I’ll be here during the hot, dry Provence summer, when it never rains and people hide from the midday sun in their stone houses. For now, it’s sunny and temperate. A few days ago it snowed. Sticky, fat flakes covered the terrace, and we made snow angels.
At times, one kilometer feels constricting. But for an hour every day, I can walk or run in open space. Or I can stand on the balcony, close my eyes and listen. The afternoon breeze carries birdsong and classical music and our neighbor’s deck saw. At six and eight minutes past the hour, the bells of the two nearby churches ring.At times, one kilometer feels constricting. But for an hour every day, I can walk or run in open space. Or I can stand on the balcony, close my eyes and listen. The afternoon breeze carries birdsong and classical music and our neighbor’s deck saw. At six and eight minutes past the hour, the bells of the two nearby churches ring.
Sophie Stuber (@sophiestube) is an American journalist based in France.Sophie Stuber (@sophiestube) is an American journalist based in France.
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