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| These Days, Even a Michelin Star Chef Has to Sell Takeout | These Days, Even a Michelin Star Chef Has to Sell Takeout |
| (32 minutes later) | |
| For nearly three years, the chef T.J. Steele refused to offer delivery at Claro, his Michelin star restaurant in the Gowanus neighborhood of Brooklyn. | For nearly three years, the chef T.J. Steele refused to offer delivery at Claro, his Michelin star restaurant in the Gowanus neighborhood of Brooklyn. |
| He ignored the constant entreaties from online delivery companies like Grubhub and DoorDash, which were sometimes sent to his personal email address. Creating a delivery operation would have required a time-consuming overhaul of the menu. It just wasn’t worth the effort. | He ignored the constant entreaties from online delivery companies like Grubhub and DoorDash, which were sometimes sent to his personal email address. Creating a delivery operation would have required a time-consuming overhaul of the menu. It just wasn’t worth the effort. |
| But because of the coronavirus, Mr. Steele has had to make some compromises to stay in business. He has signed up with Grubhub and Caviar, another delivery service. He has created a menu that eschews complex, hard-to-deliver items like tuna tostada in favor of homey offerings like chicken — a food he never thought he would serve. (He has always preferred turkey.) | But because of the coronavirus, Mr. Steele has had to make some compromises to stay in business. He has signed up with Grubhub and Caviar, another delivery service. He has created a menu that eschews complex, hard-to-deliver items like tuna tostada in favor of homey offerings like chicken — a food he never thought he would serve. (He has always preferred turkey.) |
| Mr. Steele has also had to get used to seeing delivery drivers mishandle his carefully assembled dishes. And he has learned to package certain orders in foil containers so the dishes do not have to be removed from their delivery vessels to be heated in the oven. | Mr. Steele has also had to get used to seeing delivery drivers mishandle his carefully assembled dishes. And he has learned to package certain orders in foil containers so the dishes do not have to be removed from their delivery vessels to be heated in the oven. |
| “Before, we were a Michelin star restaurant where people would have a bunch of mezcals and hang out for a while and spend money,” Mr. Steele said. “Now we’re sending chips and salsa and soup to people.” | “Before, we were a Michelin star restaurant where people would have a bunch of mezcals and hang out for a while and spend money,” Mr. Steele said. “Now we’re sending chips and salsa and soup to people.” |
| Before the coronavirus made delivery a necessity, restaurants across the country — from mom-and-pops to major chains like McDonald’s — were slowly beginning to reinvent themselves as logistics operations, using software to track orders on different delivery platforms or experimenting with containers and menu items designed to travel. | Before the coronavirus made delivery a necessity, restaurants across the country — from mom-and-pops to major chains like McDonald’s — were slowly beginning to reinvent themselves as logistics operations, using software to track orders on different delivery platforms or experimenting with containers and menu items designed to travel. |
| Now, what began as a steady evolution is taking place at warp speed, as even chefs and owners who had long resisted delivery, like Mr. Steele, adapt to the pandemic. | Now, what began as a steady evolution is taking place at warp speed, as even chefs and owners who had long resisted delivery, like Mr. Steele, adapt to the pandemic. |
| One day this month, Grubhub added more than four times as many restaurants to its app as it had on its previous record day. Demand has also spiked for Ordermark, a company in Los Angeles that provides hardware to help restaurants manage delivery orders. Last year, an average of roughly 300 restaurants signed up in a month. In March, more than 1,000 have joined. | One day this month, Grubhub added more than four times as many restaurants to its app as it had on its previous record day. Demand has also spiked for Ordermark, a company in Los Angeles that provides hardware to help restaurants manage delivery orders. Last year, an average of roughly 300 restaurants signed up in a month. In March, more than 1,000 have joined. |
| “Oftentimes, the restaurants weren’t set up for delivery — they don’t really have menus that are designed for takeout or delivery,” said Alex Canter, the chief executive of Ordermark. “They’re having to quickly make adjustments. And for those restaurants, it’s a life-or-death situation.” | “Oftentimes, the restaurants weren’t set up for delivery — they don’t really have menus that are designed for takeout or delivery,” said Alex Canter, the chief executive of Ordermark. “They’re having to quickly make adjustments. And for those restaurants, it’s a life-or-death situation.” |
| Even as deliveries have ballooned the last few years, their quality has been inconsistent. Often, the food arrives cold and soggy, in ripped paper bags or crumpled pizza boxes. Many restaurants consider delivery apps a necessary evil because of the large third-party commissions. And some restaurants lack the infrastructure to execute a successful delivery business. | Even as deliveries have ballooned the last few years, their quality has been inconsistent. Often, the food arrives cold and soggy, in ripped paper bags or crumpled pizza boxes. Many restaurants consider delivery apps a necessary evil because of the large third-party commissions. And some restaurants lack the infrastructure to execute a successful delivery business. |
| Matt Le-Khac had always envisioned his restaurant in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood as a gathering spot — a place for people to share Vietnamese food in an intimate setting, with Vietnamese radio hits playing in the background. He never planned to offer his sautéed mushrooms and grilled shrimp lollipops on Grubhub or Uber Eats. | Matt Le-Khac had always envisioned his restaurant in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood as a gathering spot — a place for people to share Vietnamese food in an intimate setting, with Vietnamese radio hits playing in the background. He never planned to offer his sautéed mushrooms and grilled shrimp lollipops on Grubhub or Uber Eats. |
| But this month, Mr. Le-Khac converted the restaurant, Bolero, into a delivery and takeout operation, with a line of four tablets set up at the bar like a command center. Where he once stored dishes, he started keeping paper bags and plastic to-go containers. He also rewrote the menu, removing an intricate jellylike dish that would fall apart in transit and modifying a beef item to make it work for delivery. | But this month, Mr. Le-Khac converted the restaurant, Bolero, into a delivery and takeout operation, with a line of four tablets set up at the bar like a command center. Where he once stored dishes, he started keeping paper bags and plastic to-go containers. He also rewrote the menu, removing an intricate jellylike dish that would fall apart in transit and modifying a beef item to make it work for delivery. |
| The transition was painful. Sales fell 70 percent. His staff of 20 had to be cut down to just two. And Mr. Le-Khac had to give up control over the dining experience. | The transition was painful. Sales fell 70 percent. His staff of 20 had to be cut down to just two. And Mr. Le-Khac had to give up control over the dining experience. |
| “I’m not expecting the delivery guy to explain that this sauce goes with this beef wrapped in betel leaf,” he said. “So we mark the sauces. Once the customer receives the delivery, they can piece together what goes with what.” | “I’m not expecting the delivery guy to explain that this sauce goes with this beef wrapped in betel leaf,” he said. “So we mark the sauces. Once the customer receives the delivery, they can piece together what goes with what.” |
| The coronavirus has devastated the restaurant industry in the United States, especially the independent businesses, which make up about two-thirds of the dining landscape. Analysts estimate that 75 percent of independent restaurants that have been closed to protect Americans from the virus won’t survive the crisis. | The coronavirus has devastated the restaurant industry in the United States, especially the independent businesses, which make up about two-thirds of the dining landscape. Analysts estimate that 75 percent of independent restaurants that have been closed to protect Americans from the virus won’t survive the crisis. |
| “The first question that most restaurants are facing is, ‘Do I even try?’” said Scott Landers, who runs the food delivery consulting group Figure Eight Logistics. “Places with big front of house, if they don’t get rent reduction, it’s going to be a really difficult economic calculus even if you can do delivery.” | “The first question that most restaurants are facing is, ‘Do I even try?’” said Scott Landers, who runs the food delivery consulting group Figure Eight Logistics. “Places with big front of house, if they don’t get rent reduction, it’s going to be a really difficult economic calculus even if you can do delivery.” |
| Some restaurants were already refining their delivery operations, which better prepared them to weather the shutdowns in cities like New York and San Francisco. | Some restaurants were already refining their delivery operations, which better prepared them to weather the shutdowns in cities like New York and San Francisco. |
| Mexicue, a chain in New York, Connecticut and Washington, D.C., recently unveiled a streamlined delivery program, complete with eco-friendly packaging engineered to keep its tacos intact, as well as new menu items. | Mexicue, a chain in New York, Connecticut and Washington, D.C., recently unveiled a streamlined delivery program, complete with eco-friendly packaging engineered to keep its tacos intact, as well as new menu items. |
| The delivery operation was planned months ago as a supplement to Mexicue’s dine-in service, which accounted for more than 80 percent of the chain’s business. Now, rather than temporarily shutting down, Mexicue is relying on delivery to survive. | The delivery operation was planned months ago as a supplement to Mexicue’s dine-in service, which accounted for more than 80 percent of the chain’s business. Now, rather than temporarily shutting down, Mexicue is relying on delivery to survive. |
| “We thought there’d be demand out there,” said Thomas Kelly, a co-owner of Mexicue. “A lot of people who were finding themselves at grocery stores with empty shelves or with a pantry full of ingredients and needing a little break from cooking.” | “We thought there’d be demand out there,” said Thomas Kelly, a co-owner of Mexicue. “A lot of people who were finding themselves at grocery stores with empty shelves or with a pantry full of ingredients and needing a little break from cooking.” |
| For years, the major chains have recognized the importance of delivery, which could make up as much as 60 percent of restaurant sales by 2030, according to some analysts’ estimates. | For years, the major chains have recognized the importance of delivery, which could make up as much as 60 percent of restaurant sales by 2030, according to some analysts’ estimates. |
| At Shake Shack, the logistics of delivery have helped shape how the chain designs new burgers and sandwiches at its test kitchen in Manhattan. “We’ll say, ‘We love it — but will the sauce fall off if it gets delivered?’” Mark Rosati, the chain’s culinary director, said in an interview before the pandemic hit. “These are questions we’re starting to ask a little more as we create food.” | At Shake Shack, the logistics of delivery have helped shape how the chain designs new burgers and sandwiches at its test kitchen in Manhattan. “We’ll say, ‘We love it — but will the sauce fall off if it gets delivered?’” Mark Rosati, the chain’s culinary director, said in an interview before the pandemic hit. “These are questions we’re starting to ask a little more as we create food.” |
| Updated June 22, 2020 | Updated June 22, 2020 |
| A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. | A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. |
| The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. | The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. |
| The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. | The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. |
| So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. | So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. |
| Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. | Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. |
| A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. | A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. |
| The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April. | The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April. |
| States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people. | States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people. |
| Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. | Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. |
| If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) | If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) |
| If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. | If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. |
| If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested. | If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested. |
| Last year, online orders accounted for about 20 percent of Chipotle Mexican Grill’s sales. That was partly because two of the chain’s most popular items — burritos and burrito bowls — travel relatively well. Its tacos, however, are a different story. | |
| “If they’re all wrapped together in foil and put at the bottom of the bag, they can get a little mashed up,” said Chris Brandt, the chief marketing officer at Chipotle. | “If they’re all wrapped together in foil and put at the bottom of the bag, they can get a little mashed up,” said Chris Brandt, the chief marketing officer at Chipotle. |
| So for the past few months, a team of about 10 employees has worked on developing improved packaging for the tacos, collaborating with experts from the fashion and footwear industries. | So for the past few months, a team of about 10 employees has worked on developing improved packaging for the tacos, collaborating with experts from the fashion and footwear industries. |
| Not long ago, it would have been hard to imagine a burrito chain’s seeking advice from shoe executives. But the rise of digital ordering has spawned a whole universe of delivery consultants and entrepreneurs. Ordermark provides hardware and consulting. Toast, a Boston company, makes point-of-sale equipment for restaurants. And in Los Angeles, ChowNow designs apps for restaurants that want to avoid hefty commission fees. | Not long ago, it would have been hard to imagine a burrito chain’s seeking advice from shoe executives. But the rise of digital ordering has spawned a whole universe of delivery consultants and entrepreneurs. Ordermark provides hardware and consulting. Toast, a Boston company, makes point-of-sale equipment for restaurants. And in Los Angeles, ChowNow designs apps for restaurants that want to avoid hefty commission fees. |
| For Mr. Landers, the consultant, mastering the logistics of food delivery has become something of an obsession. Before the pandemic, he would order from the delivery apps about twice a week, not unusual for a New Yorker. More unusual was what he did once the deliveries arrived: stick a thermometer into his food. | For Mr. Landers, the consultant, mastering the logistics of food delivery has become something of an obsession. Before the pandemic, he would order from the delivery apps about twice a week, not unusual for a New Yorker. More unusual was what he did once the deliveries arrived: stick a thermometer into his food. |
| “My wife would get to the point where she was like, ‘Can we eat now?’” Mr. Landers said. | “My wife would get to the point where she was like, ‘Can we eat now?’” Mr. Landers said. |
| Since the pandemic forced restaurants to close their dine-in areas, he has offered free consulting sessions to owners who are trying to improve their delivery operations. And he has warned clients to keep a close eye on the economics. | Since the pandemic forced restaurants to close their dine-in areas, he has offered free consulting sessions to owners who are trying to improve their delivery operations. And he has warned clients to keep a close eye on the economics. |
| “Make sure that you’re not losing two or three dollars on every order,” he said. “Because you’ll just go out of business even faster.” | “Make sure that you’re not losing two or three dollars on every order,” he said. “Because you’ll just go out of business even faster.” |
| At Bolero, Mr. Le-Khac said he was not sure whether he would continue offering delivery and takeout. It might not work financially, he said. And with New York now the epicenter of the pandemic, he’s concerned about the safety of his employees. | At Bolero, Mr. Le-Khac said he was not sure whether he would continue offering delivery and takeout. It might not work financially, he said. And with New York now the epicenter of the pandemic, he’s concerned about the safety of his employees. |
| Last week, he closed the restaurant to regroup and consider the implications of continuing to offer delivery. “The margin of error is so small right now,” Mr. Le-Khac said. | Last week, he closed the restaurant to regroup and consider the implications of continuing to offer delivery. “The margin of error is so small right now,” Mr. Le-Khac said. |
| If he decides to reopen, he said, he’ll probably switch from plastic containers to paper ones. | If he decides to reopen, he said, he’ll probably switch from plastic containers to paper ones. |
| Kitty Bennett contributed research. | Kitty Bennett contributed research. |