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Migrant Farmworkers Whose Harvests Feed Europe Are Blocked at Borders | Migrant Farmworkers Whose Harvests Feed Europe Are Blocked at Borders |
(about 16 hours later) | |
PARIS — When Europe tightened its borders to prevent the spread of the coronavirus, France’s biggest farmers sounded an alarm: The workers they rely on from other countries to harvest much of the nation’s food could no longer make the trip. | PARIS — When Europe tightened its borders to prevent the spread of the coronavirus, France’s biggest farmers sounded an alarm: The workers they rely on from other countries to harvest much of the nation’s food could no longer make the trip. |
The concern is widespread. In Britain, farmers are struggling to find people to pick raspberries and potatoes. Part of Germany’s prized white asparagus crop risks rotting in the ground. And in Italy, over a quarter of the strawberries, beans and lettuce ripening in coming months may lack harvesters. | The concern is widespread. In Britain, farmers are struggling to find people to pick raspberries and potatoes. Part of Germany’s prized white asparagus crop risks rotting in the ground. And in Italy, over a quarter of the strawberries, beans and lettuce ripening in coming months may lack harvesters. |
European governments have declared food supplies a matter of national security as millions flock to supermarkets to brace for prolonged home confinement. But border lockdowns have immobilized legions of seasonal workers from Eastern Europe who toil in fields from Spain to Sweden, forcing a rapid rethink of how to supply labor to those farms. | European governments have declared food supplies a matter of national security as millions flock to supermarkets to brace for prolonged home confinement. But border lockdowns have immobilized legions of seasonal workers from Eastern Europe who toil in fields from Spain to Sweden, forcing a rapid rethink of how to supply labor to those farms. |
France’s agriculture minister this week trumpeted what sounded like a surreal call for hairdressers, waiters, florists and others temporarily unable to work at their mothballed businesses to head to the nation’s fields and start picking. | France’s agriculture minister this week trumpeted what sounded like a surreal call for hairdressers, waiters, florists and others temporarily unable to work at their mothballed businesses to head to the nation’s fields and start picking. |
“I’m calling on this shadow army, on the many men and women who want to work,” Didier Guillaume, the minister, said on BFM television on Tuesday. “We have to produce to feed the French.” | “I’m calling on this shadow army, on the many men and women who want to work,” Didier Guillaume, the minister, said on BFM television on Tuesday. “We have to produce to feed the French.” |
Europe isn’t about to run out of food. Truckloads of pasta, tomatoes and other goods continue to cross the continent, with bottlenecks at some borders. But the widening clarion call to citizens underscores an uncomfortable reality: Without low-cost mobile labor from Eastern Europe, the breadbaskets of Europe’s wealthier economies risk losing their harvest. | Europe isn’t about to run out of food. Truckloads of pasta, tomatoes and other goods continue to cross the continent, with bottlenecks at some borders. But the widening clarion call to citizens underscores an uncomfortable reality: Without low-cost mobile labor from Eastern Europe, the breadbaskets of Europe’s wealthier economies risk losing their harvest. |
Malte Voigts grows the creamy pale asparagus celebrated in Germany as “white gold” and harvested each spring to much fanfare. But as the days grow warmer and stalks begin peeking from the mounds of earth on the farm he runs in Kremmen, 30 miles northwest of Berlin, he and neighboring farmers are struggling with limited numbers of seasonal workers and more stringent housing conditions to allow for social distancing. | Malte Voigts grows the creamy pale asparagus celebrated in Germany as “white gold” and harvested each spring to much fanfare. But as the days grow warmer and stalks begin peeking from the mounds of earth on the farm he runs in Kremmen, 30 miles northwest of Berlin, he and neighboring farmers are struggling with limited numbers of seasonal workers and more stringent housing conditions to allow for social distancing. |
Normally he relies on a force of about 170 mostly Romanian workers for the asparagus harvest. Right now, about half that number are on hand, most of them having arrived before the Czech Republic and Hungary blocked travel through their countries. | Normally he relies on a force of about 170 mostly Romanian workers for the asparagus harvest. Right now, about half that number are on hand, most of them having arrived before the Czech Republic and Hungary blocked travel through their countries. |
Germany relies on 300,000 seasonal workers to plant and harvest produce throughout the spring and summer. Like many growers in Brandenburg State, where about 24,000 tons of asparagus is raised each year, Mr. Voigts said he would need more people for the high season, which starts in late April. | Germany relies on 300,000 seasonal workers to plant and harvest produce throughout the spring and summer. Like many growers in Brandenburg State, where about 24,000 tons of asparagus is raised each year, Mr. Voigts said he would need more people for the high season, which starts in late April. |
Hoping to fill the gaps, he put out a call for help on his company’s website. “Hundreds of people have called in, even a mother, saying her two teens could help out — which we don’t allow,” he said. “I almost get goose bumps.” | Hoping to fill the gaps, he put out a call for help on his company’s website. “Hundreds of people have called in, even a mother, saying her two teens could help out — which we don’t allow,” he said. “I almost get goose bumps.” |
Thousands of Germans have also logged on to a national website offering to help farmers or nurseries needing workers. The jobs pay the German minimum wage of 9.35 euros (about $10.25) an hour — the same wage paid to foreign harvesters. But with only 16,000 applicants so far, the agriculture minister has urged the government to also grant refugees who have not qualified for a work permit the right to help in the fields. | Thousands of Germans have also logged on to a national website offering to help farmers or nurseries needing workers. The jobs pay the German minimum wage of 9.35 euros (about $10.25) an hour — the same wage paid to foreign harvesters. But with only 16,000 applicants so far, the agriculture minister has urged the government to also grant refugees who have not qualified for a work permit the right to help in the fields. |
Until this week, seasonal workers who could bypass travel restrictions and get to the German border would be allowed in. But on Wednesday, farmers faced a further squeeze after the Interior Ministry announced that Germany would bar all seasonal workers from entering the country, citing concerns by the public that they could bring the coronavirus with them. | Until this week, seasonal workers who could bypass travel restrictions and get to the German border would be allowed in. But on Wednesday, farmers faced a further squeeze after the Interior Ministry announced that Germany would bar all seasonal workers from entering the country, citing concerns by the public that they could bring the coronavirus with them. |
In France, the government said Thursday that 40,000 people had already applied on a website that matches willing hands with farms that need them. France’s major supermarket chains have pledged to source produce only from French farms, part of a government-backed plan to support farmers. | In France, the government said Thursday that 40,000 people had already applied on a website that matches willing hands with farms that need them. France’s major supermarket chains have pledged to source produce only from French farms, part of a government-backed plan to support farmers. |
But with 200,000 field and dairy hands needed across the country, attracting enough French nationals — most of whom have never experienced the muddy work of picking, pruning and milking — seemed to be a herculean task. | But with 200,000 field and dairy hands needed across the country, attracting enough French nationals — most of whom have never experienced the muddy work of picking, pruning and milking — seemed to be a herculean task. |
Even if they come, people must be trained and have endurance to uproot vegetables, pluck strawberries or collect peaches quickly and in large quantities without damage. | Even if they come, people must be trained and have endurance to uproot vegetables, pluck strawberries or collect peaches quickly and in large quantities without damage. |
Mr. Voigts, the German asparagus grower, said that while the offer of help from citizens was a relief, he was realistic about how many people would be able to master the job. | Mr. Voigts, the German asparagus grower, said that while the offer of help from citizens was a relief, he was realistic about how many people would be able to master the job. |
“Many people think it is easy to cut asparagus, but once they try it, they realize how difficult it really is,” he said. “It’s not fun.” | “Many people think it is easy to cut asparagus, but once they try it, they realize how difficult it really is,” he said. “It’s not fun.” |
Véronique Marchesseau, a cattle breeder in Brittany, said the government would do better to pay out-of-work people to help care for the children of workers who already know how farms operate. “Not everyone can do what we do,” she said. | Véronique Marchesseau, a cattle breeder in Brittany, said the government would do better to pay out-of-work people to help care for the children of workers who already know how farms operate. “Not everyone can do what we do,” she said. |
Updated June 22, 2020 | Updated June 22, 2020 |
A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. | A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. |
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. | The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. |
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. | The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. |
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. | So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. |
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. | Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. |
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. | A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. |
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April. | The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April. |
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people. | States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people. |
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. | Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. |
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) | If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) |
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. | If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. |
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested. | If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested. |
Critics also questioned the wisdom of recruiting untrained citizens to gather crops as governments impose strict quarantines to prevent the coronavirus’s spread. | |
“In less than 24 hours, the minister of health tells us to stay at home to save lives, the prime minister tightens sanctions and the minister of agriculture tells the French to go to work in the fields,” Julien Odoul, a regional councilor for the far-right National Rally party, wrote on Twitter, referring to the French government’s appeal. “This government is confined to the kingdom of amateurism.” | |
That hasn’t stopped a call to arms that is spreading across Europe. | |
In the Spanish province of Huelva, Europe’s biggest producer of blueberries, the main farming union opened a recruitment drive for residents to make up for the expected loss of about 9,000 seasonal workers from Morocco, locked out by border closings. | |
Spain’s Almería Province, host to some of Europe’s largest greenhouse farms, is experiencing a boom in demand from supermarkets. Farmers there have a more steady supply of workers because the greenhouses operate year-round, allowing for a resident work force to live on-site, albeit in basic conditions. | Spain’s Almería Province, host to some of Europe’s largest greenhouse farms, is experiencing a boom in demand from supermarkets. Farmers there have a more steady supply of workers because the greenhouses operate year-round, allowing for a resident work force to live on-site, albeit in basic conditions. |
Italy, the epicenter of Europe’s coronavirus crisis, faces a steeper hurdle. Around a quarter of Italian food products are gathered by 370,000 foreign seasonal workers, mainly from Eastern Europe, according to Coldiretti, the country’s biggest agriculture association. | Italy, the epicenter of Europe’s coronavirus crisis, faces a steeper hurdle. Around a quarter of Italian food products are gathered by 370,000 foreign seasonal workers, mainly from Eastern Europe, according to Coldiretti, the country’s biggest agriculture association. |
The country needs at least 50,000 workers through spring. Around 2,000 people have applied to substitute for the seasonal workers. To attract more, Coldiretti says, the government must modify wage conditions to make it easier for students, retirees or the unemployed to receive pay while working in the fields. | The country needs at least 50,000 workers through spring. Around 2,000 people have applied to substitute for the seasonal workers. To attract more, Coldiretti says, the government must modify wage conditions to make it easier for students, retirees or the unemployed to receive pay while working in the fields. |
Farms in Britain had already confronted a labor shortage as Brexit discouraged migrant workers from arriving, and few British nationals were willing to take the jobs. | Farms in Britain had already confronted a labor shortage as Brexit discouraged migrant workers from arriving, and few British nationals were willing to take the jobs. |
In previous years, Britain’s agricultural sector has relied on about 27,000 people, and food manufacturers about 116,000 — year-round workers from European Union states. At peak harvest, a further 75,000 non-British workers flooded in. | In previous years, Britain’s agricultural sector has relied on about 27,000 people, and food manufacturers about 116,000 — year-round workers from European Union states. At peak harvest, a further 75,000 non-British workers flooded in. |
Farmers will face more dire prospects as travel is cut off altogether to contain the epidemic, said Sarah Boparan, operational director at HOPS, a recruiter that typically brings in workers from Romania, Bulgaria and other European Union countries. | Farmers will face more dire prospects as travel is cut off altogether to contain the epidemic, said Sarah Boparan, operational director at HOPS, a recruiter that typically brings in workers from Romania, Bulgaria and other European Union countries. |
“We urgently need a U.K. labor force who can help harvest crops to feed the nation,” she said. | “We urgently need a U.K. labor force who can help harvest crops to feed the nation,” she said. |
Despite the chaos, Ms. Boparan said she had seen at least one bright spot. In the past, her agency attracted interest from only about 20 British people a year to work on farms. As of earlier this week, hundreds of responses had rolled in. | Despite the chaos, Ms. Boparan said she had seen at least one bright spot. In the past, her agency attracted interest from only about 20 British people a year to work on farms. As of earlier this week, hundreds of responses had rolled in. |
“It’s been flabbergastingly fantastic,” she said. | “It’s been flabbergastingly fantastic,” she said. |
Liz Alderman reported from Paris, Melissa Eddy from Berlin and Amie Tsang from London. Raphael Minder contributed reporting from Madrid, Emma Bubola from Rome and Eva Mbengue from Paris. | Liz Alderman reported from Paris, Melissa Eddy from Berlin and Amie Tsang from London. Raphael Minder contributed reporting from Madrid, Emma Bubola from Rome and Eva Mbengue from Paris. |