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‘We’re Completely Lost’: Coronavirus Hits N.Y. Restaurants ‘We’re Completely Lost’: Coronavirus Hits N.Y. Restaurants
(2 days later)
New York City’s renowned restaurant and nightlife industries — global destinations and trendsetters for generations — awoke Monday to a devastating new world, finding themselves all but shut down in an open-ended battle against a microscopic threat.New York City’s renowned restaurant and nightlife industries — global destinations and trendsetters for generations — awoke Monday to a devastating new world, finding themselves all but shut down in an open-ended battle against a microscopic threat.
From storied steakhouses to humble corner saloons, owners, waiters, chefs and bartenders arrived for work on Monday as if for a funeral, hours after Mayor Bill de Blasio ordered them to close by Tuesday morning.From storied steakhouses to humble corner saloons, owners, waiters, chefs and bartenders arrived for work on Monday as if for a funeral, hours after Mayor Bill de Blasio ordered them to close by Tuesday morning.
“We’re completely lost,” said Odalys Rivera, pouring coffee at a new taqueria, Cena, which opened in Brooklyn’s Windsor Terrace just last year and is the if-we-can-make-it-here dream of Ms. Rivera’s brother and her cousin, the owners.“We’re completely lost,” said Odalys Rivera, pouring coffee at a new taqueria, Cena, which opened in Brooklyn’s Windsor Terrace just last year and is the if-we-can-make-it-here dream of Ms. Rivera’s brother and her cousin, the owners.
The shutdown promises to affect all strata of the industry, from the owners and their celebrity chefs to the waiters and waitresses, bar-backs and busboys, who effectively are facing layoffs and may be unable to pay their rent.The shutdown promises to affect all strata of the industry, from the owners and their celebrity chefs to the waiters and waitresses, bar-backs and busboys, who effectively are facing layoffs and may be unable to pay their rent.
About 154,400 people work in the city’s bars, restaurants, cafes and food trucks, earning $4.7 billion in wages a year, according to a 2019 city study. The city’s comptroller, Scott M. Stringer, estimated on Monday that restaurant sales would decline by 80 percent during the shutdown, a figure that will cripple some businesses.About 154,400 people work in the city’s bars, restaurants, cafes and food trucks, earning $4.7 billion in wages a year, according to a 2019 city study. The city’s comptroller, Scott M. Stringer, estimated on Monday that restaurant sales would decline by 80 percent during the shutdown, a figure that will cripple some businesses.
“We have never experienced something like this,” said Daniel Boulud, the chef and restaurateur who owns Daniel. “Everybody is on temporary leave and we hope to bring them back as soon as the green light will come, but we have no idea when.”“We have never experienced something like this,” said Daniel Boulud, the chef and restaurateur who owns Daniel. “Everybody is on temporary leave and we hope to bring them back as soon as the green light will come, but we have no idea when.”
Under the mayor’s order, restaurants would be allowed to serve takeout meals or deliveries, but the bars could face a complete loss. Never has the future appeared so uncertain: The coronavirus will almost surely do what neither a catastrophic storm nor terrorist attacks could, wiping out many of the places New Yorkers have turned to for comfort and company.Under the mayor’s order, restaurants would be allowed to serve takeout meals or deliveries, but the bars could face a complete loss. Never has the future appeared so uncertain: The coronavirus will almost surely do what neither a catastrophic storm nor terrorist attacks could, wiping out many of the places New Yorkers have turned to for comfort and company.
“Totally an out-of-body experience,” said Pepe Zwaryczuk, a bartender of 46 years at McSorley’s Old Ale House in the East Village, the venerable watering hole. “My feeling is we’re going to be closed for a while. We’ve been told two weeks, and that’s already telling me it’s a month, which means it’ll be closer to two months.”“Totally an out-of-body experience,” said Pepe Zwaryczuk, a bartender of 46 years at McSorley’s Old Ale House in the East Village, the venerable watering hole. “My feeling is we’re going to be closed for a while. We’ve been told two weeks, and that’s already telling me it’s a month, which means it’ll be closer to two months.”
Others had an even grimmer outlook. Many bars and restaurants with daunting rents exist on a margin as thin as a paring knife and may never return from March 16, 2020.Others had an even grimmer outlook. Many bars and restaurants with daunting rents exist on a margin as thin as a paring knife and may never return from March 16, 2020.
“The problem with modeling this is that there’s no sense of what the time is going to be,” said Andrew Carmellini, the chef-owner of the Dutch, Locanda Verde and the owner or co-owner of 12 other restaurants. “There’s the time when people are going to come out of self-quarantine, and then there’s the time of economic recovery. It’s not that in one day, restaurants are going to be full again and people are spending money.”“The problem with modeling this is that there’s no sense of what the time is going to be,” said Andrew Carmellini, the chef-owner of the Dutch, Locanda Verde and the owner or co-owner of 12 other restaurants. “There’s the time when people are going to come out of self-quarantine, and then there’s the time of economic recovery. It’s not that in one day, restaurants are going to be full again and people are spending money.”
Historically, restaurants and bars have been celebrated for reopening after catastrophes and have been treated as barometers of the city’s recovery. But in the fight against the virus, they find themselves treated like pariahs and spreaders of disease.Historically, restaurants and bars have been celebrated for reopening after catastrophes and have been treated as barometers of the city’s recovery. But in the fight against the virus, they find themselves treated like pariahs and spreaders of disease.
“For those of us that were here for 9/11, once everyone started to come out of the fog, you wanted to socialize,” Mr. Carmellini said. “You wanted to go get drunk, you wanted to get a burger, you wanted to see your friends to feel safe and comfortable.”“For those of us that were here for 9/11, once everyone started to come out of the fog, you wanted to socialize,” Mr. Carmellini said. “You wanted to go get drunk, you wanted to get a burger, you wanted to see your friends to feel safe and comfortable.”
“This,” he said, “is the opposite of that.”“This,” he said, “is the opposite of that.”
For many of city’s leading chefs, opening a successful restaurant in Manhattan was the fulfillment of a dream. Seeing it all go dark overnight seemed to many of them like an existential threat.For many of city’s leading chefs, opening a successful restaurant in Manhattan was the fulfillment of a dream. Seeing it all go dark overnight seemed to many of them like an existential threat.
“This crisis is the equivalent of a war,” said Eric Ripert, a chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin. “In a war, you never know when the world is going to end. You never know what’s going to happen. You see everything that you have created being destroyed.”“This crisis is the equivalent of a war,” said Eric Ripert, a chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin. “In a war, you never know when the world is going to end. You never know what’s going to happen. You see everything that you have created being destroyed.”
In Harlem, at the restaurant FieldTrip, just nine months old, the threat of going out of business was even more pressing.In Harlem, at the restaurant FieldTrip, just nine months old, the threat of going out of business was even more pressing.
“We just started getting into our flow,” said JJ Johnson, the restaurant’s chef and founder. “You might have money in the bank for a month? For, like, shortfalls? But not for a major gunshot to the head.”“We just started getting into our flow,” said JJ Johnson, the restaurant’s chef and founder. “You might have money in the bank for a month? For, like, shortfalls? But not for a major gunshot to the head.”
For workers, many of whom live paycheck to paycheck, the mayor’s order threw their livelihoods into doubt overnight.For workers, many of whom live paycheck to paycheck, the mayor’s order threw their livelihoods into doubt overnight.
Jake Murphy, 27, an actor and a server who was laid off from Perry St., one of the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s properties, walked home from that job on Monday morning with an armload of produce from the kitchen and 20 hours’ minimum wage pay, but none of the tips he usually relies on.Jake Murphy, 27, an actor and a server who was laid off from Perry St., one of the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s properties, walked home from that job on Monday morning with an armload of produce from the kitchen and 20 hours’ minimum wage pay, but none of the tips he usually relies on.
“I don’t know what the future holds,” Mr. Murphy said. “There’s no timeline for anything. How do you budget your savings when you don’t know when this will end?”“I don’t know what the future holds,” Mr. Murphy said. “There’s no timeline for anything. How do you budget your savings when you don’t know when this will end?”
In Harlem, Alysha Navarro, 30, a single mother and waitress at Melba’s on Frederick Douglass Boulevard, lives paycheck to paycheck.In Harlem, Alysha Navarro, 30, a single mother and waitress at Melba’s on Frederick Douglass Boulevard, lives paycheck to paycheck.
“This is my career — this is not my side job,” she said. “If I only have experience in restaurants, how do I branch out?”“This is my career — this is not my side job,” she said. “If I only have experience in restaurants, how do I branch out?”
Across the East River in Queens, Quy Tran, a 55-year-old waiter and delivery man for a Vietnamese restaurant in Jackson Heights, said he had two or three weeks of cash in the bank. “I feel nervous, scared,” he said, “not about the sickness but about money.”Across the East River in Queens, Quy Tran, a 55-year-old waiter and delivery man for a Vietnamese restaurant in Jackson Heights, said he had two or three weeks of cash in the bank. “I feel nervous, scared,” he said, “not about the sickness but about money.”
Updated June 1, 2020 Updated June 2, 2020
Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
More than 40 million people — the equivalent of 1 in 4 U.S. workers — have filed for unemployment benefits since the pandemic took hold. One in five who were working in February reported losing a job or being furloughed in March or the beginning of April, data from a Federal Reserve survey released on May 14 showed, and that pain was highly concentrated among low earners. Fully 39 percent of former workers living in a household earning $40,000 or less lost work, compared with 13 percent in those making more than $100,000, a Fed official said.More than 40 million people — the equivalent of 1 in 4 U.S. workers — have filed for unemployment benefits since the pandemic took hold. One in five who were working in February reported losing a job or being furloughed in March or the beginning of April, data from a Federal Reserve survey released on May 14 showed, and that pain was highly concentrated among low earners. Fully 39 percent of former workers living in a household earning $40,000 or less lost work, compared with 13 percent in those making more than $100,000, a Fed official said.
Yes, but make sure you keep six feet of distance between you and people who don’t live in your home. Even if you just hang out in a park, rather than go for a jog or a walk, getting some fresh air, and hopefully sunshine, is a good idea.
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
Charity Navigator, which evaluates charities using a numbers-based system, has a running list of nonprofits working in communities affected by the outbreak. You can give blood through the American Red Cross, and World Central Kitchen has stepped in to distribute meals in major cities.
And in a restaurant on Columbus Avenue, as the owners sat around a table trying to figure out how to convert to takeout and delivery, a dishwasher swept the floor nearby. He said he still owed $5,000 to the person who helped him cross the border from Mexico last year.And in a restaurant on Columbus Avenue, as the owners sat around a table trying to figure out how to convert to takeout and delivery, a dishwasher swept the floor nearby. He said he still owed $5,000 to the person who helped him cross the border from Mexico last year.
“I’m not scared to come into work,” the dishwasher said. “I need the job.”“I’m not scared to come into work,” the dishwasher said. “I need the job.”
At Bar Tabac, a longtime bistro in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, Roman Kologov, a waiter, set up water glasses on empty tables as if in a trance. “Basically serve whoever wants to still eat,” he said when asked about the last day before closing. “Would you want to eat out?”At Bar Tabac, a longtime bistro in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, Roman Kologov, a waiter, set up water glasses on empty tables as if in a trance. “Basically serve whoever wants to still eat,” he said when asked about the last day before closing. “Would you want to eat out?”
It’s a question that could linger beyond the shutdown. Once the crisis passes, chefs and restaurateurs do not expect business to immediately return. After what might be months of time away, diners might be initially wary of public gatherings or might still be out of the habit of dining out.It’s a question that could linger beyond the shutdown. Once the crisis passes, chefs and restaurateurs do not expect business to immediately return. After what might be months of time away, diners might be initially wary of public gatherings or might still be out of the habit of dining out.
“Everyone is going to have to make an effort,” Mr. Ripert, the co-owner of Le Bernadin, said. “We are going to see some drastic changes in the restaurant industry. Whatever was yesterday will be difficult to recreate.”“Everyone is going to have to make an effort,” Mr. Ripert, the co-owner of Le Bernadin, said. “We are going to see some drastic changes in the restaurant industry. Whatever was yesterday will be difficult to recreate.”
Mr. Boulud agreed. “We are going to work on zero margins for a long time, I’m sure,” he said. “We need to be able to make the guests feel more comfortable to go out.”Mr. Boulud agreed. “We are going to work on zero margins for a long time, I’m sure,” he said. “We need to be able to make the guests feel more comfortable to go out.”
Until then, several restaurants, hugely famous or humble, will see their inventory donated to City Harvest and food banks.Until then, several restaurants, hugely famous or humble, will see their inventory donated to City Harvest and food banks.
The timing of the shutdown carried a particular sting for bars and Irish pubs, arriving on the eve of St. Patrick’s Day, a windfall they count on. New Year’s resolutions and “Dryuary” often make for a slow first quarter.The timing of the shutdown carried a particular sting for bars and Irish pubs, arriving on the eve of St. Patrick’s Day, a windfall they count on. New Year’s resolutions and “Dryuary” often make for a slow first quarter.
“We operate in the red this time of the year,” said Matt Hogan, an owner of the Irish Haven pub in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. “We don’t start really ramping up until this week.”“We operate in the red this time of the year,” said Matt Hogan, an owner of the Irish Haven pub in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. “We don’t start really ramping up until this week.”
Bill Raftery, a bar owner, was more blunt in his frustration, at Malachy’s on the Upper West Side. “We’re losing the biggest day,” he said. “If you lose the nightlife in the city, you lose the city.”Bill Raftery, a bar owner, was more blunt in his frustration, at Malachy’s on the Upper West Side. “We’re losing the biggest day,” he said. “If you lose the nightlife in the city, you lose the city.”
Azi Payparah and Elaine Chen contributed reporting. Susan Beachy contributed research.Azi Payparah and Elaine Chen contributed reporting. Susan Beachy contributed research.