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‘We’re Completely Lost’: Coronavirus Hits N.Y. Restaurants ‘We’re Completely Lost’: Coronavirus Hits N.Y. Restaurants
(21 days later)
New York City’s renowned restaurant and nightlife industries — global destinations and trendsetters for generations — awoke Monday to a devastating new world, finding themselves all but shut down in an open-ended battle against a microscopic threat.New York City’s renowned restaurant and nightlife industries — global destinations and trendsetters for generations — awoke Monday to a devastating new world, finding themselves all but shut down in an open-ended battle against a microscopic threat.
From storied steakhouses to humble corner saloons, owners, waiters, chefs and bartenders arrived for work on Monday as if for a funeral, hours after Mayor Bill de Blasio ordered them to close by Tuesday morning.From storied steakhouses to humble corner saloons, owners, waiters, chefs and bartenders arrived for work on Monday as if for a funeral, hours after Mayor Bill de Blasio ordered them to close by Tuesday morning.
“We’re completely lost,” said Odalys Rivera, pouring coffee at a new taqueria, Cena, which opened in Brooklyn’s Windsor Terrace just last year and is the if-we-can-make-it-here dream of Ms. Rivera’s brother and her cousin, the owners.“We’re completely lost,” said Odalys Rivera, pouring coffee at a new taqueria, Cena, which opened in Brooklyn’s Windsor Terrace just last year and is the if-we-can-make-it-here dream of Ms. Rivera’s brother and her cousin, the owners.
The shutdown promises to affect all strata of the industry, from the owners and their celebrity chefs to the waiters and waitresses, bar-backs and busboys, who effectively are facing layoffs and may be unable to pay their rent.The shutdown promises to affect all strata of the industry, from the owners and their celebrity chefs to the waiters and waitresses, bar-backs and busboys, who effectively are facing layoffs and may be unable to pay their rent.
About 154,400 people work in the city’s bars, restaurants, cafes and food trucks, earning $4.7 billion in wages a year, according to a 2019 city study. The city’s comptroller, Scott M. Stringer, estimated on Monday that restaurant sales would decline by 80 percent during the shutdown, a figure that will cripple some businesses.About 154,400 people work in the city’s bars, restaurants, cafes and food trucks, earning $4.7 billion in wages a year, according to a 2019 city study. The city’s comptroller, Scott M. Stringer, estimated on Monday that restaurant sales would decline by 80 percent during the shutdown, a figure that will cripple some businesses.
“We have never experienced something like this,” said Daniel Boulud, the chef and restaurateur who owns Daniel. “Everybody is on temporary leave and we hope to bring them back as soon as the green light will come, but we have no idea when.”“We have never experienced something like this,” said Daniel Boulud, the chef and restaurateur who owns Daniel. “Everybody is on temporary leave and we hope to bring them back as soon as the green light will come, but we have no idea when.”
Under the mayor’s order, restaurants would be allowed to serve takeout meals or deliveries, but the bars could face a complete loss. Never has the future appeared so uncertain: The coronavirus will almost surely do what neither a catastrophic storm nor terrorist attacks could, wiping out many of the places New Yorkers have turned to for comfort and company.Under the mayor’s order, restaurants would be allowed to serve takeout meals or deliveries, but the bars could face a complete loss. Never has the future appeared so uncertain: The coronavirus will almost surely do what neither a catastrophic storm nor terrorist attacks could, wiping out many of the places New Yorkers have turned to for comfort and company.
“Totally an out-of-body experience,” said Pepe Zwaryczuk, a bartender of 46 years at McSorley’s Old Ale House in the East Village, the venerable watering hole. “My feeling is we’re going to be closed for a while. We’ve been told two weeks, and that’s already telling me it’s a month, which means it’ll be closer to two months.”“Totally an out-of-body experience,” said Pepe Zwaryczuk, a bartender of 46 years at McSorley’s Old Ale House in the East Village, the venerable watering hole. “My feeling is we’re going to be closed for a while. We’ve been told two weeks, and that’s already telling me it’s a month, which means it’ll be closer to two months.”
Others had an even grimmer outlook. Many bars and restaurants with daunting rents exist on a margin as thin as a paring knife and may never return from March 16, 2020.Others had an even grimmer outlook. Many bars and restaurants with daunting rents exist on a margin as thin as a paring knife and may never return from March 16, 2020.
“The problem with modeling this is that there’s no sense of what the time is going to be,” said Andrew Carmellini, the chef-owner of the Dutch, Locanda Verde and the owner or co-owner of 12 other restaurants. “There’s the time when people are going to come out of self-quarantine, and then there’s the time of economic recovery. It’s not that in one day, restaurants are going to be full again and people are spending money.”“The problem with modeling this is that there’s no sense of what the time is going to be,” said Andrew Carmellini, the chef-owner of the Dutch, Locanda Verde and the owner or co-owner of 12 other restaurants. “There’s the time when people are going to come out of self-quarantine, and then there’s the time of economic recovery. It’s not that in one day, restaurants are going to be full again and people are spending money.”
Historically, restaurants and bars have been celebrated for reopening after catastrophes and have been treated as barometers of the city’s recovery. But in the fight against the virus, they find themselves treated like pariahs and spreaders of disease.Historically, restaurants and bars have been celebrated for reopening after catastrophes and have been treated as barometers of the city’s recovery. But in the fight against the virus, they find themselves treated like pariahs and spreaders of disease.
“For those of us that were here for 9/11, once everyone started to come out of the fog, you wanted to socialize,” Mr. Carmellini said. “You wanted to go get drunk, you wanted to get a burger, you wanted to see your friends to feel safe and comfortable.”“For those of us that were here for 9/11, once everyone started to come out of the fog, you wanted to socialize,” Mr. Carmellini said. “You wanted to go get drunk, you wanted to get a burger, you wanted to see your friends to feel safe and comfortable.”
“This,” he said, “is the opposite of that.”“This,” he said, “is the opposite of that.”
For many of city’s leading chefs, opening a successful restaurant in Manhattan was the fulfillment of a dream. Seeing it all go dark overnight seemed to many of them like an existential threat.For many of city’s leading chefs, opening a successful restaurant in Manhattan was the fulfillment of a dream. Seeing it all go dark overnight seemed to many of them like an existential threat.
“This crisis is the equivalent of a war,” said Eric Ripert, a chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin. “In a war, you never know when the world is going to end. You never know what’s going to happen. You see everything that you have created being destroyed.”“This crisis is the equivalent of a war,” said Eric Ripert, a chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin. “In a war, you never know when the world is going to end. You never know what’s going to happen. You see everything that you have created being destroyed.”
In Harlem, at the restaurant FieldTrip, just nine months old, the threat of going out of business was even more pressing.In Harlem, at the restaurant FieldTrip, just nine months old, the threat of going out of business was even more pressing.
“We just started getting into our flow,” said JJ Johnson, the restaurant’s chef and founder. “You might have money in the bank for a month? For, like, shortfalls? But not for a major gunshot to the head.”“We just started getting into our flow,” said JJ Johnson, the restaurant’s chef and founder. “You might have money in the bank for a month? For, like, shortfalls? But not for a major gunshot to the head.”
For workers, many of whom live paycheck to paycheck, the mayor’s order threw their livelihoods into doubt overnight.For workers, many of whom live paycheck to paycheck, the mayor’s order threw their livelihoods into doubt overnight.
Jake Murphy, 27, an actor and a server who was laid off from Perry St., one of the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s properties, walked home from that job on Monday morning with an armload of produce from the kitchen and 20 hours’ minimum wage pay, but none of the tips he usually relies on.Jake Murphy, 27, an actor and a server who was laid off from Perry St., one of the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s properties, walked home from that job on Monday morning with an armload of produce from the kitchen and 20 hours’ minimum wage pay, but none of the tips he usually relies on.
“I don’t know what the future holds,” Mr. Murphy said. “There’s no timeline for anything. How do you budget your savings when you don’t know when this will end?”“I don’t know what the future holds,” Mr. Murphy said. “There’s no timeline for anything. How do you budget your savings when you don’t know when this will end?”
Updated June 24, 2020 Updated July 7, 2020
The coronavirus can stay aloft for hours in tiny droplets in stagnant air, infecting people as they inhale, mounting scientific evidence suggests. This risk is highest in crowded indoor spaces with poor ventilation, and may help explain super-spreading events reported in meatpacking plants, churches and restaurants. It’s unclear how often the virus is spread via these tiny droplets, or aerosols, compared with larger droplets that are expelled when a sick person coughs or sneezes, or transmitted through contact with contaminated surfaces, said Linsey Marr, an aerosol expert at Virginia Tech. Aerosols are released even when a person without symptoms exhales, talks or sings, according to Dr. Marr and more than 200 other experts, who have outlined the evidence in an open letter to the World Health Organization.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles.Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles.
A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico.A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico.
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
In Harlem, Alysha Navarro, 30, a single mother and waitress at Melba’s on Frederick Douglass Boulevard, lives paycheck to paycheck.In Harlem, Alysha Navarro, 30, a single mother and waitress at Melba’s on Frederick Douglass Boulevard, lives paycheck to paycheck.
“This is my career — this is not my side job,” she said. “If I only have experience in restaurants, how do I branch out?”“This is my career — this is not my side job,” she said. “If I only have experience in restaurants, how do I branch out?”
Across the East River in Queens, Quy Tran, a 55-year-old waiter and delivery man for a Vietnamese restaurant in Jackson Heights, said he had two or three weeks of cash in the bank. “I feel nervous, scared,” he said, “not about the sickness but about money.”Across the East River in Queens, Quy Tran, a 55-year-old waiter and delivery man for a Vietnamese restaurant in Jackson Heights, said he had two or three weeks of cash in the bank. “I feel nervous, scared,” he said, “not about the sickness but about money.”
And in a restaurant on Columbus Avenue, as the owners sat around a table trying to figure out how to convert to takeout and delivery, a dishwasher swept the floor nearby. He said he still owed $5,000 to the person who helped him cross the border from Mexico last year.And in a restaurant on Columbus Avenue, as the owners sat around a table trying to figure out how to convert to takeout and delivery, a dishwasher swept the floor nearby. He said he still owed $5,000 to the person who helped him cross the border from Mexico last year.
“I’m not scared to come into work,” the dishwasher said. “I need the job.”“I’m not scared to come into work,” the dishwasher said. “I need the job.”
At Bar Tabac, a longtime bistro in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, Roman Kologov, a waiter, set up water glasses on empty tables as if in a trance. “Basically serve whoever wants to still eat,” he said when asked about the last day before closing. “Would you want to eat out?”At Bar Tabac, a longtime bistro in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, Roman Kologov, a waiter, set up water glasses on empty tables as if in a trance. “Basically serve whoever wants to still eat,” he said when asked about the last day before closing. “Would you want to eat out?”
It’s a question that could linger beyond the shutdown. Once the crisis passes, chefs and restaurateurs do not expect business to immediately return. After what might be months of time away, diners might be initially wary of public gatherings or might still be out of the habit of dining out.It’s a question that could linger beyond the shutdown. Once the crisis passes, chefs and restaurateurs do not expect business to immediately return. After what might be months of time away, diners might be initially wary of public gatherings or might still be out of the habit of dining out.
“Everyone is going to have to make an effort,” Mr. Ripert, the co-owner of Le Bernadin, said. “We are going to see some drastic changes in the restaurant industry. Whatever was yesterday will be difficult to recreate.”“Everyone is going to have to make an effort,” Mr. Ripert, the co-owner of Le Bernadin, said. “We are going to see some drastic changes in the restaurant industry. Whatever was yesterday will be difficult to recreate.”
Mr. Boulud agreed. “We are going to work on zero margins for a long time, I’m sure,” he said. “We need to be able to make the guests feel more comfortable to go out.”Mr. Boulud agreed. “We are going to work on zero margins for a long time, I’m sure,” he said. “We need to be able to make the guests feel more comfortable to go out.”
Until then, several restaurants, hugely famous or humble, will see their inventory donated to City Harvest and food banks.Until then, several restaurants, hugely famous or humble, will see their inventory donated to City Harvest and food banks.
The timing of the shutdown carried a particular sting for bars and Irish pubs, arriving on the eve of St. Patrick’s Day, a windfall they count on. New Year’s resolutions and “Dryuary” often make for a slow first quarter.The timing of the shutdown carried a particular sting for bars and Irish pubs, arriving on the eve of St. Patrick’s Day, a windfall they count on. New Year’s resolutions and “Dryuary” often make for a slow first quarter.
“We operate in the red this time of the year,” said Matt Hogan, an owner of the Irish Haven pub in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. “We don’t start really ramping up until this week.”“We operate in the red this time of the year,” said Matt Hogan, an owner of the Irish Haven pub in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. “We don’t start really ramping up until this week.”
Bill Raftery, a bar owner, was more blunt in his frustration, at Malachy’s on the Upper West Side. “We’re losing the biggest day,” he said. “If you lose the nightlife in the city, you lose the city.”Bill Raftery, a bar owner, was more blunt in his frustration, at Malachy’s on the Upper West Side. “We’re losing the biggest day,” he said. “If you lose the nightlife in the city, you lose the city.”
Azi Payparah and Elaine Chen contributed reporting. Susan Beachy contributed research.Azi Payparah and Elaine Chen contributed reporting. Susan Beachy contributed research.