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France’s Bistros Close, in a Frenzy of Donated Cheese and Pâté | France’s Bistros Close, in a Frenzy of Donated Cheese and Pâté |
(7 days later) | |
PARIS — Xavier Denamur is used to bustling between the five popular bistros he owns in the Marais neighborhood of central Paris, managing a team of nearly 70 waiters and chefs and keeping tabs on the phalanx of patrons who crowd his tables, elbow-to-elbow, year round. | PARIS — Xavier Denamur is used to bustling between the five popular bistros he owns in the Marais neighborhood of central Paris, managing a team of nearly 70 waiters and chefs and keeping tabs on the phalanx of patrons who crowd his tables, elbow-to-elbow, year round. |
But on Monday, Mr. Denamur, 57, was scrambling to deal with a situation that he said resembled wartime conditions: overseeing the abrupt closure of his businesses as President Emmanuel Macron prepared to move France to a quarantine. It was soon official: The quarantine will start at noon Tuesday. | But on Monday, Mr. Denamur, 57, was scrambling to deal with a situation that he said resembled wartime conditions: overseeing the abrupt closure of his businesses as President Emmanuel Macron prepared to move France to a quarantine. It was soon official: The quarantine will start at noon Tuesday. |
By midnight, Mr. Denamur would have to empty his refrigerators of almost €20,000 worth of chèvre cheese, boeuf bourguignon, pâté and other delicacies that would spoil by the time any quarantine ended, and would now have to be given away. | By midnight, Mr. Denamur would have to empty his refrigerators of almost €20,000 worth of chèvre cheese, boeuf bourguignon, pâté and other delicacies that would spoil by the time any quarantine ended, and would now have to be given away. |
“We knew there would probably be a shutdown, but I didn’t think things would happen so fast,” he said, pressing two cellphones to his ears as he and a handful of employees hurried to empty refrigerators and wipe the bistros down before shuttering indefinitely. | “We knew there would probably be a shutdown, but I didn’t think things would happen so fast,” he said, pressing two cellphones to his ears as he and a handful of employees hurried to empty refrigerators and wipe the bistros down before shuttering indefinitely. |
As governments across the world shut cities and close borders in a race to stay ahead of the coronavirus epidemic, Mr. Denamur was among thousands of business owners trying to manage the chaos and help his employees, while calculating how to stay afloat. | As governments across the world shut cities and close borders in a race to stay ahead of the coronavirus epidemic, Mr. Denamur was among thousands of business owners trying to manage the chaos and help his employees, while calculating how to stay afloat. |
Outside his flagship bistro, Les Philosophes, the normally traffic-clogged rue Vieille-du-Temple was empty under a leaden sky, save for a few people with suitcases rushing to catch trains and hail taxis to flee Paris. On Monday night, Mr. Macron announced a 15-day lockdown on all but “essential” outings, starting Tuesday. | Outside his flagship bistro, Les Philosophes, the normally traffic-clogged rue Vieille-du-Temple was empty under a leaden sky, save for a few people with suitcases rushing to catch trains and hail taxis to flee Paris. On Monday night, Mr. Macron announced a 15-day lockdown on all but “essential” outings, starting Tuesday. |
“It’s a catastrophic situation,” Mr. Denamur said, surveying the ghostly interior of Les Philosophes, where cane-backed chairs and marble-topped round tables, normally outside on the sidewalk, were piled into teetering stacks. “I need to make sure that everything is taken care of.” | “It’s a catastrophic situation,” Mr. Denamur said, surveying the ghostly interior of Les Philosophes, where cane-backed chairs and marble-topped round tables, normally outside on the sidewalk, were piled into teetering stacks. “I need to make sure that everything is taken care of.” |
Similar scenes of frenzy have unfolded across France at restaurants, stores and commerce of all stripes after the government late Saturday ordered all nonessential businesses closed until further notice. | Similar scenes of frenzy have unfolded across France at restaurants, stores and commerce of all stripes after the government late Saturday ordered all nonessential businesses closed until further notice. |
France’s corporate giants were swept up in the tide ahead of Mr. Macron’s announcement Monday. Big employers including the automakers Renault and PSA Peugeot Citroën, as well as the tiremaker Michelin, announced they would halt French factory operations. Air France said it would put all its employees on part-time work for six months. | France’s corporate giants were swept up in the tide ahead of Mr. Macron’s announcement Monday. Big employers including the automakers Renault and PSA Peugeot Citroën, as well as the tiremaker Michelin, announced they would halt French factory operations. Air France said it would put all its employees on part-time work for six months. |
If the prospect of an extended clampdown left companies reeling, it is especially daunting for smaller employers like Mr. Denamur, who have little time to prepare for potentially large losses and ensure workers aren’t left in precarious straits as they are forced to stay home. | If the prospect of an extended clampdown left companies reeling, it is especially daunting for smaller employers like Mr. Denamur, who have little time to prepare for potentially large losses and ensure workers aren’t left in precarious straits as they are forced to stay home. |
“It would have been more intelligent to warn us earlier,” said Mr. Denamur, who had just stocked up on cheeses, meat and vegetables that he suddenly had to get rid of and count as a loss. | “It would have been more intelligent to warn us earlier,” said Mr. Denamur, who had just stocked up on cheeses, meat and vegetables that he suddenly had to get rid of and count as a loss. |
To minimize waste, he asked his employees to come in Monday to grab whatever food they could. Neighborhood residents lined up as he donated the rest. | To minimize waste, he asked his employees to come in Monday to grab whatever food they could. Neighborhood residents lined up as he donated the rest. |
While the quarantine is set for two weeks, Mr. Denamur said the situation was so uncertain that he didn’t count on reopening before June. “The Roquefort cheese might last that long, but the rest of our food won’t make it,” he said, adding that he had called his suppliers to cancel all orders until further notice. | While the quarantine is set for two weeks, Mr. Denamur said the situation was so uncertain that he didn’t count on reopening before June. “The Roquefort cheese might last that long, but the rest of our food won’t make it,” he said, adding that he had called his suppliers to cancel all orders until further notice. |
President Macron said he would do “whatever it takes” to support workers and especially the small and midsize businesses that form backbone of the economy. “No French company will be exposed to the risk of collapsing,” he said Monday. | President Macron said he would do “whatever it takes” to support workers and especially the small and midsize businesses that form backbone of the economy. “No French company will be exposed to the risk of collapsing,” he said Monday. |
He announced €300 billion in state guarantees for companies’ loans, tax exemptions and a suspension of rents and electricity bills for struggling small businesses. The state will pay firms to keep people partly employed so as not to swell the jobless rolls as Europe stares down the barrel of a recession. | He announced €300 billion in state guarantees for companies’ loans, tax exemptions and a suspension of rents and electricity bills for struggling small businesses. The state will pay firms to keep people partly employed so as not to swell the jobless rolls as Europe stares down the barrel of a recession. |
The pledges are part of a concerted scramble by European Union countries to prevent uncontainable damage to the economy as businesses shutter at alarming rates. The European Commission and governments have unveiled fiscal support measures worth nearly €1 trillion combined. | The pledges are part of a concerted scramble by European Union countries to prevent uncontainable damage to the economy as businesses shutter at alarming rates. The European Commission and governments have unveiled fiscal support measures worth nearly €1 trillion combined. |
But guarantees sounded like so much noise early Monday as Mr. Denamur assessed the future of his business. As of midnight Saturday, his employees were put on temporary unemployment, with just four hours’ notice following the government decree. | But guarantees sounded like so much noise early Monday as Mr. Denamur assessed the future of his business. As of midnight Saturday, his employees were put on temporary unemployment, with just four hours’ notice following the government decree. |
Mr. Denamur, who acquired his first restaurant on the street, Le Petit Fer au Cheval, 30 years ago, was in the Lot-et-Garonne region of southern France, where he sources produce, cheeses and meats, when he heard the news. He rushed to book a train to Paris on Sunday. | Mr. Denamur, who acquired his first restaurant on the street, Le Petit Fer au Cheval, 30 years ago, was in the Lot-et-Garonne region of southern France, where he sources produce, cheeses and meats, when he heard the news. He rushed to book a train to Paris on Sunday. |
Many of his employees have worked at the bistros for years. Mr. Denamur said he would continue to pay their salaries, which he reckoned he could afford for about two months. He encouraged them to use up paid vacation first, after which they would be eligible for technical unemployment, which pays the equivalent of France’s monthly minimum wage. | Many of his employees have worked at the bistros for years. Mr. Denamur said he would continue to pay their salaries, which he reckoned he could afford for about two months. He encouraged them to use up paid vacation first, after which they would be eligible for technical unemployment, which pays the equivalent of France’s monthly minimum wage. |
Updated July 7, 2020 | |
The coronavirus can stay aloft for hours in tiny droplets in stagnant air, infecting people as they inhale, mounting scientific evidence suggests. This risk is highest in crowded indoor spaces with poor ventilation, and may help explain super-spreading events reported in meatpacking plants, churches and restaurants. It’s unclear how often the virus is spread via these tiny droplets, or aerosols, compared with larger droplets that are expelled when a sick person coughs or sneezes, or transmitted through contact with contaminated surfaces, said Linsey Marr, an aerosol expert at Virginia Tech. Aerosols are released even when a person without symptoms exhales, talks or sings, according to Dr. Marr and more than 200 other experts, who have outlined the evidence in an open letter to the World Health Organization. | |
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. | Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. |
Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles. | Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles. |
A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. | A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. |
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. | The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. |
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. | The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. |
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. | So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. |
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. | Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. |
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. | A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. |
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) | If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) |
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. | If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. |
Despite the government’s pledge to backstop employers, Mr. Denamur said it wasn’t clear how or when he could obtain promised financial aid. | Despite the government’s pledge to backstop employers, Mr. Denamur said it wasn’t clear how or when he could obtain promised financial aid. |
“The government says it will reimburse businesses for putting people on reduced work schedules,” he said. “But my restaurants are closed — the employees can’t work at all,” he added. “The government needs to be more clear. Workers need to be reassured.” | “The government says it will reimburse businesses for putting people on reduced work schedules,” he said. “But my restaurants are closed — the employees can’t work at all,” he added. “The government needs to be more clear. Workers need to be reassured.” |
Mr. Denamur had arranged for his accountant and an inspector to hurry in Monday morning to assess his financial situation. | Mr. Denamur had arranged for his accountant and an inspector to hurry in Monday morning to assess his financial situation. |
He lifted a metal floor grate and descended to the basement to inspect a refrigerator. Thousands of euros’ worth of chèvre cheese had just been delivered, while milk, pork pâté and Spanish ham would expire in two days. Comté cheese the size of car wheels wouldn’t outlast a quarantine, either. | He lifted a metal floor grate and descended to the basement to inspect a refrigerator. Thousands of euros’ worth of chèvre cheese had just been delivered, while milk, pork pâté and Spanish ham would expire in two days. Comté cheese the size of car wheels wouldn’t outlast a quarantine, either. |
Those were suddenly sunk costs, and would have to be written off. Mr. Denamur had phoned Tout Autour du Pain, a boulangerie, to see if the bakery was willing to buy anything. Around 9 a.m. Monday, Benjamin Turquier, the owner, arrived in a small van. | Those were suddenly sunk costs, and would have to be written off. Mr. Denamur had phoned Tout Autour du Pain, a boulangerie, to see if the bakery was willing to buy anything. Around 9 a.m. Monday, Benjamin Turquier, the owner, arrived in a small van. |
Mr. Turquier bakes 2,000 baguettes a day, 1,600 of which go to restaurants, he said. When the order to close restaurants hit Saturday night, he lost that business instantly, and doesn’t know when it will return. | Mr. Turquier bakes 2,000 baguettes a day, 1,600 of which go to restaurants, he said. When the order to close restaurants hit Saturday night, he lost that business instantly, and doesn’t know when it will return. |
While his bakery can stay open because it is considered an essential business, “economically the hit is going to be huge,” he said. | While his bakery can stay open because it is considered an essential business, “economically the hit is going to be huge,” he said. |
Offers of credit hardly seemed useful at a time like this, Mr. Turquier added. “We are told the government has a plan for easy loans. But I wouldn’t take on a loan right now — how would that help?” | Offers of credit hardly seemed useful at a time like this, Mr. Turquier added. “We are told the government has a plan for easy loans. But I wouldn’t take on a loan right now — how would that help?” |
As he spoke, Mr. Denamur’s employees filtered in to take food emptied from the refrigerators. | As he spoke, Mr. Denamur’s employees filtered in to take food emptied from the refrigerators. |
“Keep your distance from one another, to maintain health safety, please!” he shouted as the employees converged on packs of salmon, meats and crates of milk and cheese. In the kitchen, two workers packaged up boeuf bourguignon and vats of pre-sliced potatoes. “This way you’ll be stocked up at home for the long haul,” Mr. Denamur said. | “Keep your distance from one another, to maintain health safety, please!” he shouted as the employees converged on packs of salmon, meats and crates of milk and cheese. In the kitchen, two workers packaged up boeuf bourguignon and vats of pre-sliced potatoes. “This way you’ll be stocked up at home for the long haul,” Mr. Denamur said. |
A bartender at La Belle Hortense, Mr. Denamur’s wine bar and bookstore — where he recently made Albert Camus’s “The Plague” a book of the month — wheeled her suitcase down the street and waved goodbye. | A bartender at La Belle Hortense, Mr. Denamur’s wine bar and bookstore — where he recently made Albert Camus’s “The Plague” a book of the month — wheeled her suitcase down the street and waved goodbye. |
Mr. Denamur would stay until his refrigerators were emptied of nearly everything. Should trains stop running in France, he was ready for a 10-hour ride on his motorcycle back home to hunker down with his son. | Mr. Denamur would stay until his refrigerators were emptied of nearly everything. Should trains stop running in France, he was ready for a 10-hour ride on his motorcycle back home to hunker down with his son. |
“In France, bistros are the parliaments of the people, and now they are closed,” he said. When the coronavirus crisis passes, he added, life, and quite possibly the world economy, won’t be the same. But the bistros will still be there. | “In France, bistros are the parliaments of the people, and now they are closed,” he said. When the coronavirus crisis passes, he added, life, and quite possibly the world economy, won’t be the same. But the bistros will still be there. |
“I’m telling everyone to keep fighting and to keep smiling,” he said. “We will reopen one day. And we will survive.” | “I’m telling everyone to keep fighting and to keep smiling,” he said. “We will reopen one day. And we will survive.” |