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As a Spanish City Lights Up for Christmas, So Does a Debate As a Spanish City Lights Up for Christmas, So Does a Debate
(30 minutes later)
VIGO, Spain — Before the holiday season, the mayor of this Spanish city bragged that his Christmas lights would outshine New York, which lies across the Atlantic on the same latitude.VIGO, Spain — Before the holiday season, the mayor of this Spanish city bragged that his Christmas lights would outshine New York, which lies across the Atlantic on the same latitude.
Holding up his cellphone at a news conference, Vigo’s mayor, Abel Caballero, jokingly predicted that he would soon get a call from his counterpart, Bill de Blasio, telling him that New Yorkers were feeling jealous because they could see that “the lights of Vigo are the best on the planet.”Holding up his cellphone at a news conference, Vigo’s mayor, Abel Caballero, jokingly predicted that he would soon get a call from his counterpart, Bill de Blasio, telling him that New Yorkers were feeling jealous because they could see that “the lights of Vigo are the best on the planet.”
New York’s mayor did not ring him. But tens of thousands of visitors have since responded to Mr. Caballero’s invitation, generating a Christmas tourism boom that has been a welcome change for Vigo. The city’s claim to fame in other seasons is as an industrial hub and Spain’s largest fishing port.New York’s mayor did not ring him. But tens of thousands of visitors have since responded to Mr. Caballero’s invitation, generating a Christmas tourism boom that has been a welcome change for Vigo. The city’s claim to fame in other seasons is as an industrial hub and Spain’s largest fishing port.
Mr. Caballero, 73, is an exuberant Socialist politician who also likes to call himself “the most popular mayor in Europe.” Still, some have wondered whether the mayor’s almost unparalleled enthusiasm for Christmas lights has gone over the top, giving him a certain notoriety in Spain.Mr. Caballero, 73, is an exuberant Socialist politician who also likes to call himself “the most popular mayor in Europe.” Still, some have wondered whether the mayor’s almost unparalleled enthusiasm for Christmas lights has gone over the top, giving him a certain notoriety in Spain.
The mayor spent 1 million euros, or about $1.1 million, decorating Vigo with 10 million Christmas lights this year, at a time when environmentalists want mayors like Mr. Caballero to reduce light pollution and the energy consumption required to fuel it.The mayor spent 1 million euros, or about $1.1 million, decorating Vigo with 10 million Christmas lights this year, at a time when environmentalists want mayors like Mr. Caballero to reduce light pollution and the energy consumption required to fuel it.
“It seems an absurd contradiction that Spain held a climate change summit just as Vigo competed with other Spanish cities for who could switch on the most Christmas lights,” said Serafín González Prieto, the president of the Galician Society of Natural History, a regional nongovernmental organization.“It seems an absurd contradiction that Spain held a climate change summit just as Vigo competed with other Spanish cities for who could switch on the most Christmas lights,” said Serafín González Prieto, the president of the Galician Society of Natural History, a regional nongovernmental organization.
It enraged environmentalists all the more that Mr. Caballero even spoke about Vigo as an urban environmental example at the United Nations conference in Madrid.It enraged environmentalists all the more that Mr. Caballero even spoke about Vigo as an urban environmental example at the United Nations conference in Madrid.
Vigo switched on its Christmas lights on Nov. 23, ahead of the long holiday weekend to celebrate Spain’s Constitution, during which Vigo’s hotels reported full occupancy. Two decades ago, hotels had an occupancy rate of 20 percent on the same Constitution holiday.Vigo switched on its Christmas lights on Nov. 23, ahead of the long holiday weekend to celebrate Spain’s Constitution, during which Vigo’s hotels reported full occupancy. Two decades ago, hotels had an occupancy rate of 20 percent on the same Constitution holiday.
“People see that I have been transforming Vigo, and not just because I have made sure that we are celebrating Christmas as the big feast that it should always be,” Mr. Caballero said in an interview.“People see that I have been transforming Vigo, and not just because I have made sure that we are celebrating Christmas as the big feast that it should always be,” Mr. Caballero said in an interview.
In a coastal city used to powerful Atlantic storms but not snow, the mayor has also deployed a dozen snow-making machines to spray flakes for two minutes every hour. On Sunday, children collected flakes as if they were drops of rain falling on a desert.In a coastal city used to powerful Atlantic storms but not snow, the mayor has also deployed a dozen snow-making machines to spray flakes for two minutes every hour. On Sunday, children collected flakes as if they were drops of rain falling on a desert.
“We have a Christmas that is bringing joy and has put Vigo on the map, what more could you ask for?” said José Ramón Amado Gabeiras, a welder, as he waved at his 4-year-old daughter each time she passed by on a children’s train ride.“We have a Christmas that is bringing joy and has put Vigo on the map, what more could you ask for?” said José Ramón Amado Gabeiras, a welder, as he waved at his 4-year-old daughter each time she passed by on a children’s train ride.
Christmas lights aside, Mr. Caballero is known for his publicity stunts, as well as for peppering his speeches with heavily accented English. To connect with Vigo’s youth, the mayor has not hesitated to show off his floss dancing skills in front of hundreds of schoolchildren, or risk falling off his bike while inaugurating a BMX competition.Christmas lights aside, Mr. Caballero is known for his publicity stunts, as well as for peppering his speeches with heavily accented English. To connect with Vigo’s youth, the mayor has not hesitated to show off his floss dancing skills in front of hundreds of schoolchildren, or risk falling off his bike while inaugurating a BMX competition.
Mr. Caballero served as Spain’s transport and tourism minister in the 1980s. In June, he started his fourth mandate as mayor, after a landslide election victory in which he won 67 percent of the votes in a city of just under 300,000 residents.Mr. Caballero served as Spain’s transport and tourism minister in the 1980s. In June, he started his fourth mandate as mayor, after a landslide election victory in which he won 67 percent of the votes in a city of just under 300,000 residents.
His longevity stands out at a time of political volatility and fragmentation in Spain’s politics. After its fourth election in four years in November, the country is still without a government, despite a tentative deal. Last month, the candidates of the five largest national parties were all men in their 30s or 40s.His longevity stands out at a time of political volatility and fragmentation in Spain’s politics. After its fourth election in four years in November, the country is still without a government, despite a tentative deal. Last month, the candidates of the five largest national parties were all men in their 30s or 40s.
‘‘Caballero is popular, sure, but he is also a populist who has portrayed himself as the only real defender of Vigo and blamed anything that goes wrong on others,’’ said Ignacio López-Chaves, a former conservative city politician in Vigo. “I personally would prefer more focus on reminding people about the real meaning of Christmas rather than just offering lights and fun.”‘‘Caballero is popular, sure, but he is also a populist who has portrayed himself as the only real defender of Vigo and blamed anything that goes wrong on others,’’ said Ignacio López-Chaves, a former conservative city politician in Vigo. “I personally would prefer more focus on reminding people about the real meaning of Christmas rather than just offering lights and fun.”
Carlos Príncipe, a Socialist mayor of Vigo in the 1990s, has more recently been one of the most outspoken detractors of Mr. Caballero, accused him of ignoring more important issues like a lack of social housing and the decline of the city’s shipbuilding activities. Carlos Príncipe, a Socialist mayor of Vigo in the 1990s, has more recently been one of the most outspoken detractors of Mr. Caballero, having accused him of ignoring more important issues like a lack of social housing and the decline of the city’s shipbuilding activities.
One of Vigo’s famous shipyards, Barreras, has been fighting against closing because of its debts and problems with a cruise ship contract. “These Christmas lights are like the orchestra playing on the Titanic,’’ Mr. Príncipe said. “You get people to dance while Vigo’s economy is sinking.”One of Vigo’s famous shipyards, Barreras, has been fighting against closing because of its debts and problems with a cruise ship contract. “These Christmas lights are like the orchestra playing on the Titanic,’’ Mr. Príncipe said. “You get people to dance while Vigo’s economy is sinking.”
But Mr. Caballero insisted that his electoral success showed he was helping sustain and modernize his city, notably by investing in escalators and elevators to help residents move up its hilly streets, while at the same time managing to improve the city’s financial management and erase public debt.But Mr. Caballero insisted that his electoral success showed he was helping sustain and modernize his city, notably by investing in escalators and elevators to help residents move up its hilly streets, while at the same time managing to improve the city’s financial management and erase public debt.
The mayor also staunchly defended his environmental record, saying that the city’s electricity consumption had fallen by about one quarter since he switched street lighting to LED, low-consumption bulbs.The mayor also staunchly defended his environmental record, saying that the city’s electricity consumption had fallen by about one quarter since he switched street lighting to LED, low-consumption bulbs.
“When I became mayor, Vigo still used some sodium vapor lights,” which consumed far more energy, he said. “The only complaint I have heard this Christmas is from people unhappy that I did not put beautiful lights on their own street.”“When I became mayor, Vigo still used some sodium vapor lights,” which consumed far more energy, he said. “The only complaint I have heard this Christmas is from people unhappy that I did not put beautiful lights on their own street.”
Indeed, environmental concerns did not seem to be much on the minds of holiday revelers who packed streets on Sunday evening, after three days in which severe winter storms brought havoc to the festivities.Indeed, environmental concerns did not seem to be much on the minds of holiday revelers who packed streets on Sunday evening, after three days in which severe winter storms brought havoc to the festivities.
Strong winds even forced the temporary dismantling of the Ferris wheel that is one of the main attractions of Vigo’s Christmas display.Strong winds even forced the temporary dismantling of the Ferris wheel that is one of the main attractions of Vigo’s Christmas display.
“Everything here has been well organized and under control, except the weather,” said Florentina Musa, who was running one of the market food stalls, selling a colorful assortment of dried fruit and nuts coated in chocolate. ‘‘However much people love Christmas, you cannot expect them to stroll across a market during a downpour.”“Everything here has been well organized and under control, except the weather,” said Florentina Musa, who was running one of the market food stalls, selling a colorful assortment of dried fruit and nuts coated in chocolate. ‘‘However much people love Christmas, you cannot expect them to stroll across a market during a downpour.”
The Christmas market was held for the first time in the Alameda, Vigo’s elegant downtown park. However, few of its wooden stalls sold specific Christmas decorations and gifts.The Christmas market was held for the first time in the Alameda, Vigo’s elegant downtown park. However, few of its wooden stalls sold specific Christmas decorations and gifts.
The food on offer was mostly waffles, crepes and hot dogs, as well as local specialties like boiled octopus, rather than the kind of Christmas confectionery that is the hallmark of famous European Christmas markets like those in Strasbourg, Cologne or Budapest.The food on offer was mostly waffles, crepes and hot dogs, as well as local specialties like boiled octopus, rather than the kind of Christmas confectionery that is the hallmark of famous European Christmas markets like those in Strasbourg, Cologne or Budapest.
Still, the bright lights seemed more than enough to make most visitors happy.Still, the bright lights seemed more than enough to make most visitors happy.
“I have never seen Vigo look so bright and cheerful,” said Javier Alvarez, a Swiss prison official who returns to Vigo every Christmas to spend time with family relatives. “Christmas is all about making people marvel, so I can’t see a better way of doing it than this.”“I have never seen Vigo look so bright and cheerful,” said Javier Alvarez, a Swiss prison official who returns to Vigo every Christmas to spend time with family relatives. “Christmas is all about making people marvel, so I can’t see a better way of doing it than this.”