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The French Theaters Where the iPhone Is No Match for Guignol The French Theaters Where the iPhone Is No Match for Guignol
(1 day later)
PARIS — The children hurried with their parents past tree-lined promenades and sparkling fountains toward a jewel-box puppet theater in Luxembourg Gardens, the popular park at the center of Paris.PARIS — The children hurried with their parents past tree-lined promenades and sparkling fountains toward a jewel-box puppet theater in Luxembourg Gardens, the popular park at the center of Paris.
Around 40 pint-size spectators, ages 2 to 8, swarmed around a tiny ticket window, then clambered into a brightly lit hall with black walls and red leather benches, licking lollipops and pulling at cotton candy.Around 40 pint-size spectators, ages 2 to 8, swarmed around a tiny ticket window, then clambered into a brightly lit hall with black walls and red leather benches, licking lollipops and pulling at cotton candy.
iPhones were stowed and forgotten as they faced a miniature stage with red velvet curtains and posters of colorfully costumed French marionettes.iPhones were stowed and forgotten as they faced a miniature stage with red velvet curtains and posters of colorfully costumed French marionettes.
Françis-Claude Desarthis, 83, the theater’s rotund, cherub-faced owner, ambled down the aisles, swinging a brass bell to signal the start of the show. Françis-Claude Desarthis, 73, the theater’s rotund, cherub-faced owner, ambled down the aisles, swinging a brass bell to signal the start of the show.
“Silence!” cried a 4-year-old girl, raising a finger to her lips. “Guignol is coming!“Silence!” cried a 4-year-old girl, raising a finger to her lips. “Guignol is coming!
Mr. Desarthis, who had slipped behind the stage, pulled a three-foot tall wooden puppet with arched eyebrows, cherry-red cheeks and a brown coat on his arm. Guignol, a talkative, impulsive character who is a cultural icon in France, was instantly recognizable to this boisterous crowd.Mr. Desarthis, who had slipped behind the stage, pulled a three-foot tall wooden puppet with arched eyebrows, cherry-red cheeks and a brown coat on his arm. Guignol, a talkative, impulsive character who is a cultural icon in France, was instantly recognizable to this boisterous crowd.
Guignol defeats bad guys — on this day, an evil French chef — and defends the oppressed. On a starry set with Montmartre and the Eiffel Tower painted into the background, he dispensed justice to other wooden marionettes as the children cheered him on.Guignol defeats bad guys — on this day, an evil French chef — and defends the oppressed. On a starry set with Montmartre and the Eiffel Tower painted into the background, he dispensed justice to other wooden marionettes as the children cheered him on.
“The kids are completely transfixed,” said Patrice Seme, 54, who had brought his grandchildren, ages 2 and 4, from their home in Versailles to the Théâtre des Marionnettes du Luxembourg, one of the oldest in Paris.“The kids are completely transfixed,” said Patrice Seme, 54, who had brought his grandchildren, ages 2 and 4, from their home in Versailles to the Théâtre des Marionnettes du Luxembourg, one of the oldest in Paris.
“You can’t get this from an iPhone,” he added. “We are opening the doors to their imagination.”“You can’t get this from an iPhone,” he added. “We are opening the doors to their imagination.”
In an era of limitless on-demand entertainment, the timeworn art of French marionette theater continues to capture minds and hearts in this country in ways that smartphones, video games and the most seducing technologies can’t.In an era of limitless on-demand entertainment, the timeworn art of French marionette theater continues to capture minds and hearts in this country in ways that smartphones, video games and the most seducing technologies can’t.
About 600 marionette companies operate in France, with the biggest concentration of theaters — known as châtelets, or little castles — found in parks around Paris. Many operations, like Le Guignol de Paris, inaugurated in 1892 in the Buttes des Chaumont park, are run by the descendants of marionettists who passed down their savoir-faire.About 600 marionette companies operate in France, with the biggest concentration of theaters — known as châtelets, or little castles — found in parks around Paris. Many operations, like Le Guignol de Paris, inaugurated in 1892 in the Buttes des Chaumont park, are run by the descendants of marionettists who passed down their savoir-faire.
Mr. Desarthis is one of them. A second-generation puppeteer, he began learning from his father at age 6.Mr. Desarthis is one of them. A second-generation puppeteer, he began learning from his father at age 6.
“The marionette is an essential part of our culture,” said Mr. Desarthis, as he settled onto a theater bench after a show.“The marionette is an essential part of our culture,” said Mr. Desarthis, as he settled onto a theater bench after a show.
“They engage with the public, which feels connected to their stories,” he added, flexing his arms to get the blood flowing after wielding several six-pound puppets for an hour. “It’s a collective experience.”“They engage with the public, which feels connected to their stories,” he added, flexing his arms to get the blood flowing after wielding several six-pound puppets for an hour. “It’s a collective experience.”
In France, the culture of the puppet is complex.In France, the culture of the puppet is complex.
From Cinderella to working-class caricatures like Gnafron, a poor shoemaker, puppets in elaborate costumes animated by hand, string or stick keep audiences of every age rapt. They sing familiar songs, defy authority and confront life’s dramas in performances that mirror the nation’s psyche.From Cinderella to working-class caricatures like Gnafron, a poor shoemaker, puppets in elaborate costumes animated by hand, string or stick keep audiences of every age rapt. They sing familiar songs, defy authority and confront life’s dramas in performances that mirror the nation’s psyche.
Marionettes have also branched into the avant-garde, morphing into unconventional sizes, forms and materials. A sugar cube arranged on a chair may be considered a marionette if someone animates it with hands and voice. Fantastical creations appear in operas, musicals and plays, and are feted at the biennial World Puppet Theater Festival in the town of Charleville-Mézières.Marionettes have also branched into the avant-garde, morphing into unconventional sizes, forms and materials. A sugar cube arranged on a chair may be considered a marionette if someone animates it with hands and voice. Fantastical creations appear in operas, musicals and plays, and are feted at the biennial World Puppet Theater Festival in the town of Charleville-Mézières.
But they haven’t knocked Guignol from center stage.But they haven’t knocked Guignol from center stage.
Mr. Desarthis’s atelier near the Luxembourg Gardens is filled with 2,500 Guignol figures, from chimney sweeps to poodles, that he has lovingly fashioned over the decades. With four employees, he also paints the sets, records voices and arranges special effects on 80 projectors.Mr. Desarthis’s atelier near the Luxembourg Gardens is filled with 2,500 Guignol figures, from chimney sweeps to poodles, that he has lovingly fashioned over the decades. With four employees, he also paints the sets, records voices and arranges special effects on 80 projectors.
“Rain, snow, flames — we do it all,” he said.“Rain, snow, flames — we do it all,” he said.
Mr. Desarthis was smitten by marionettes as a boy, inspired by his father, Robert, a former toy seller and clown who built Paris’s first stand-alone puppet theater in 1933. Back then, the Luxembourg Gardens, owned by the French Senate, swarmed with three times as many visitors as today.Mr. Desarthis was smitten by marionettes as a boy, inspired by his father, Robert, a former toy seller and clown who built Paris’s first stand-alone puppet theater in 1933. Back then, the Luxembourg Gardens, owned by the French Senate, swarmed with three times as many visitors as today.
“There were almost no cars, and people didn’t leave on vacations and holidays,” he said. “Le tout Paris went there, and every puppet show was packed.”“There were almost no cars, and people didn’t leave on vacations and holidays,” he said. “Le tout Paris went there, and every puppet show was packed.”
When Françis-Claude was born in 1948, his parents put marionettes in his crib. At 6, he said, he told his teacher: “It’s no use teaching me to read. I want to do puppets.” His father enrolled him in diction and acting courses, and sent him to a top marionette training school in Czechoslovakia at age 16. When Françis-Claude was born in 1946, his parents put marionettes in his crib. At 6, he said, he told his teacher: “It’s no use teaching me to read. I want to do puppets.” His father enrolled him in diction and acting courses, and sent him to a top marionette training school in Czechoslovakia at age 16.
These days, Mr. Desarthis said, children have more distractions.These days, Mr. Desarthis said, children have more distractions.
“They have technology, videos, TV, phones,” he said. “But once they come inside my theater, they have a direct interaction with the Guignols, and they forget about all that.”“They have technology, videos, TV, phones,” he said. “But once they come inside my theater, they have a direct interaction with the Guignols, and they forget about all that.”
He slipped his hand into a floppy piece of brown fabric topped with a wooden ball. Suddenly, Guignol sprang up, waving his arms and pointing around the theater.He slipped his hand into a floppy piece of brown fabric topped with a wooden ball. Suddenly, Guignol sprang up, waving his arms and pointing around the theater.
“People don’t understand how much of an art it is, to make a puppet come to life,” he said. “The magic is in the wrist,” he continued. “If you know the craft, you give him energy, vibrancy and a real personality.”“People don’t understand how much of an art it is, to make a puppet come to life,” he said. “The magic is in the wrist,” he continued. “If you know the craft, you give him energy, vibrancy and a real personality.”
The marionette dates to the Middle Ages, when icons of the Virgin Mary were paraded in religious processions. “Marion,” a diminutive for Mary, took on a life of its own in the 17th century, when puppets inspired by the commedia dell’arte in Italy appeared in street shows, just as the French playwright Moliere popularized traveling plays in villages around France.The marionette dates to the Middle Ages, when icons of the Virgin Mary were paraded in religious processions. “Marion,” a diminutive for Mary, took on a life of its own in the 17th century, when puppets inspired by the commedia dell’arte in Italy appeared in street shows, just as the French playwright Moliere popularized traveling plays in villages around France.
The characters were aimed at adults, and grew more satirical after the French Revolution. The most popular was Guignol, created in 1808 by Laurent Mourguet, an illiterate silk weaver-turned tooth-puller in Lyon who used marionettes to attract clients in the city’s central square.The characters were aimed at adults, and grew more satirical after the French Revolution. The most popular was Guignol, created in 1808 by Laurent Mourguet, an illiterate silk weaver-turned tooth-puller in Lyon who used marionettes to attract clients in the city’s central square.
Guignol quickly struck a chord among Lyon’s working class. He railed against misery and injustice, mocked authority and beat police puppets who harassed the poor. The message was so pointed that Napoleon III briefly censored Guignol plays.Guignol quickly struck a chord among Lyon’s working class. He railed against misery and injustice, mocked authority and beat police puppets who harassed the poor. The message was so pointed that Napoleon III briefly censored Guignol plays.
“People identified with Guignol,” said Lucile Bodson, the former director of the International Institute of Marionettes. “He entered the popular culture and gave them power to express themselves against the powerful.”“People identified with Guignol,” said Lucile Bodson, the former director of the International Institute of Marionettes. “He entered the popular culture and gave them power to express themselves against the powerful.”
So enduring is Guignol’s satire that a television show, “Les Guignols d’Info,” featuring life-size puppets, aired on France’s Canal+ channel for 20 years before ending last year. President Emmanuel Macron was depicted as a penguin while running for office, and a gun-toting Sylvester Stallone symbolized America.So enduring is Guignol’s satire that a television show, “Les Guignols d’Info,” featuring life-size puppets, aired on France’s Canal+ channel for 20 years before ending last year. President Emmanuel Macron was depicted as a penguin while running for office, and a gun-toting Sylvester Stallone symbolized America.
These days, Guignol is a toned-down version of his former self, playing to a generation of parents that eschews spanking and violence.These days, Guignol is a toned-down version of his former self, playing to a generation of parents that eschews spanking and violence.
“Today, there’s no brutality or beatings,” Mr. Desarthis said. “We shouldn’t be teaching children that — au contraire.”“Today, there’s no brutality or beatings,” Mr. Desarthis said. “We shouldn’t be teaching children that — au contraire.”
But the message remains the same. “It’s the tension between good and evil, and that justice rewards the good,” Mr. Desarthis said.But the message remains the same. “It’s the tension between good and evil, and that justice rewards the good,” Mr. Desarthis said.
He stepped backstage to prepare for another show. As a new group of children toddled in, a ballad about the puppeteer played on a video.He stepped backstage to prepare for another show. As a new group of children toddled in, a ballad about the puppeteer played on a video.
“He’s hot, and his arms hurt,” the song went. “But he makes the children laugh. What a beautiful thing, my friends, to be a child forever!”“He’s hot, and his arms hurt,” the song went. “But he makes the children laugh. What a beautiful thing, my friends, to be a child forever!”
In a moment, dozens of motionless puppets would spring to life on Mr. Desarthis’s arms. An 80-year-old Parisienne and her cat, Minouchette, who lived under the rooftops of Montmartre. A heartless chef, Lustucru, who planned to butcher innocent rabbits — and the cat — for dinner.In a moment, dozens of motionless puppets would spring to life on Mr. Desarthis’s arms. An 80-year-old Parisienne and her cat, Minouchette, who lived under the rooftops of Montmartre. A heartless chef, Lustucru, who planned to butcher innocent rabbits — and the cat — for dinner.
And, of course, Guignol. He would free the oppressed, save the old lady and kick the chef down a chimney — much to the delight of his young audience.And, of course, Guignol. He would free the oppressed, save the old lady and kick the chef down a chimney — much to the delight of his young audience.