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Battling on in war-scarred Kodori Battling on in war-scarred Kodori
(about 19 hours later)
The BBC's Tom Esslemont reports from Abkhazia's strategic Kodori gorge - the scene of fierce fighting between Abkhaz and Russian forces and the Georgian army in August.The BBC's Tom Esslemont reports from Abkhazia's strategic Kodori gorge - the scene of fierce fighting between Abkhaz and Russian forces and the Georgian army in August.
He is one of few foreign journalists to have been granted access to the area in Georgia's breakaway territory since the conflict.Destroyed Georgian tanks still litter the areaHe is one of few foreign journalists to have been granted access to the area in Georgia's breakaway territory since the conflict.Destroyed Georgian tanks still litter the area
The Kodori gorge, with its steep, snow-capped peaks, is the most isolated community in Abkhazia.The Kodori gorge, with its steep, snow-capped peaks, is the most isolated community in Abkhazia.
It is a five-hour ride from Abkhazia's capital Sukhumi along a narrow, rocky road. The only other vehicles we pass are those belonging to the Abkhaz authorities.It is a five-hour ride from Abkhazia's capital Sukhumi along a narrow, rocky road. The only other vehicles we pass are those belonging to the Abkhaz authorities.
For years, this mountainous region was a strategic Georgian military stronghold - its last outpost in the disputed territory.For years, this mountainous region was a strategic Georgian military stronghold - its last outpost in the disputed territory.
When fighting broke out in the other breakaway region of South Ossetia, Abkhaz separatists and Russian forces seized the opportunity and the gorge fell into their hands after violent clashes with Georgian troops.When fighting broke out in the other breakaway region of South Ossetia, Abkhaz separatists and Russian forces seized the opportunity and the gorge fell into their hands after violent clashes with Georgian troops.
Now a Russian army base commands the head of the valley. Abkhaz forces patrol the eerie, abandoned villages.Now a Russian army base commands the head of the valley. Abkhaz forces patrol the eerie, abandoned villages.
'Abkhaz marauders''Abkhaz marauders'
Many ethnic Georgians fled this region during the intense fighting. They left behind schools and shops which bore the brunt of the clashes. Many buildings have been torn to shreds.Many ethnic Georgians fled this region during the intense fighting. They left behind schools and shops which bore the brunt of the clashes. Many buildings have been torn to shreds.
Tsaled Deliwalia, an ethnic Georgian, says he lives in constant fearTsaled Deliwalia, an ethnic Georgian, says he lives in constant fear
A handful of Georgian people remain, including Tsaled Deliwalia and his wife Malena. In their compound farm animals roam freely. The bells of their goats and cattle can be heard in the hills above.A handful of Georgian people remain, including Tsaled Deliwalia and his wife Malena. In their compound farm animals roam freely. The bells of their goats and cattle can be heard in the hills above.
The rural life may, at first, appear tranquil, but there are frequent disturbances. For Mr and Mrs Deliwalia, looting is problem number one.The rural life may, at first, appear tranquil, but there are frequent disturbances. For Mr and Mrs Deliwalia, looting is problem number one.
"We did not catch them. In the darkness we did not see them. But we know who they are. They have been stealing our chickens and our crops," says Mr Deliwalia. He has a welcoming smile, but his face shows signs of strain."We did not catch them. In the darkness we did not see them. But we know who they are. They have been stealing our chickens and our crops," says Mr Deliwalia. He has a welcoming smile, but his face shows signs of strain.
He points the finger at "Abkhaz marauders", but the Abkhaz authorities say they are doing everything they can to stem the growing crime rate in the area.He points the finger at "Abkhaz marauders", but the Abkhaz authorities say they are doing everything they can to stem the growing crime rate in the area.
A regional branch of Georgia's bank now lays in ruins Sergei Dzhonua, the Abkhaz presidential representative in Kodori, says anyone is welcome to return to the region, irrespective of their ethnicity.A regional branch of Georgia's bank now lays in ruins Sergei Dzhonua, the Abkhaz presidential representative in Kodori, says anyone is welcome to return to the region, irrespective of their ethnicity.
"We want to make improvements to the quality of life here," he says. "We will soon repair the schools and shops so that people can come again to live here.""We want to make improvements to the quality of life here," he says. "We will soon repair the schools and shops so that people can come again to live here."
Looking around at the ruined buildings, it seems the pace of change is not very fast.Looking around at the ruined buildings, it seems the pace of change is not very fast.
Playing 'catch-up'Playing 'catch-up'
United Nations personnel no longer monitor the Kodori gorge. The fighting in the summer forced them to leave.United Nations personnel no longer monitor the Kodori gorge. The fighting in the summer forced them to leave.
"When they were here we did not have many problems, no-one got shot. When they went away everything began," Mr Deliwalia tells me."When they were here we did not have many problems, no-one got shot. When they went away everything began," Mr Deliwalia tells me.
In the town of Gali, closer to the border with Georgia proper, the UN refugee agency is still able to work. It provides assistance to some 45,000 ethnic Georgians living in Abkhazia's border area.In the town of Gali, closer to the border with Georgia proper, the UN refugee agency is still able to work. It provides assistance to some 45,000 ethnic Georgians living in Abkhazia's border area.
Abkhazia recently celebrated 15 years of self-declared independence The nearby Ingur River makes for a peaceful setting, but when I interview Georgian villager Ruslan Storva, it is the noise of Russian tanks that can be heard in the background.Abkhazia recently celebrated 15 years of self-declared independence The nearby Ingur River makes for a peaceful setting, but when I interview Georgian villager Ruslan Storva, it is the noise of Russian tanks that can be heard in the background.
"How can I feel safe?" he asks. "If the troops and tanks are here how can it feel right?""How can I feel safe?" he asks. "If the troops and tanks are here how can it feel right?"
Russia says its troops are there to protect the population inside Abkhazia. It says it plans to maintain 3,700 soldiers in the region.Russia says its troops are there to protect the population inside Abkhazia. It says it plans to maintain 3,700 soldiers in the region.
But the UN shares Ruslan's concern that the security situation is not improving.But the UN shares Ruslan's concern that the security situation is not improving.
"The number of incidents is growing seasonally and the population is concerned," says Srecko Neuman, a UN field office co-ordinator based in Gali."The number of incidents is growing seasonally and the population is concerned," says Srecko Neuman, a UN field office co-ordinator based in Gali.
"For a long time this zone was without proper police control and different criminal gangs considered it an open territory in which to operate.""For a long time this zone was without proper police control and different criminal gangs considered it an open territory in which to operate."
Mr Neuman says the August fighting disrupted his work, adding that he and his team are playing "catch-up" to assist Georgians returning after the conflict.Mr Neuman says the August fighting disrupted his work, adding that he and his team are playing "catch-up" to assist Georgians returning after the conflict.
Nationalist prideNationalist pride
The Abkhaz capital, Sukhumi, is only about 80km (50 miles) away from the border, but seems a world away from tales of looting and marauding.The Abkhaz capital, Sukhumi, is only about 80km (50 miles) away from the border, but seems a world away from tales of looting and marauding.
Mr Gungia says Abkhazia's security is firmy in Russia's hands Mr Gungia says Abkhazia's security is firmly in Russia's hands
The sub-tropical climate provides warmth even in mid-winter. War scars come not from the recent conflict, but from Abkhazia's earlier struggle for independence in 1992-3.The sub-tropical climate provides warmth even in mid-winter. War scars come not from the recent conflict, but from Abkhazia's earlier struggle for independence in 1992-3.
In the city suburbs concrete shells of burnt-out houses still lie in a state of disrepair 15 years on.In the city suburbs concrete shells of burnt-out houses still lie in a state of disrepair 15 years on.
But I am struck by a strong sense of nationalist pride in the region - red and green Abkhaz flags fly atop many a building - and the sense of change.But I am struck by a strong sense of nationalist pride in the region - red and green Abkhaz flags fly atop many a building - and the sense of change.
Abkhazia's Deputy Foreign Minister Maxim Gungia admits that Abkhazia's security is firmly in the hands of Russian troops. He acknowledges that Abkhazia - which together with South Ossetia was recently recognised as independent by Russia - relies on the Kremlin for security.Abkhazia's Deputy Foreign Minister Maxim Gungia admits that Abkhazia's security is firmly in the hands of Russian troops. He acknowledges that Abkhazia - which together with South Ossetia was recently recognised as independent by Russia - relies on the Kremlin for security.
"It's not that we're happy with the situation. The summer events were started by Georgia. And so, Georgia created the situation whereby it was necessary to attract the Russian army," Mr Gungia says."It's not that we're happy with the situation. The summer events were started by Georgia. And so, Georgia created the situation whereby it was necessary to attract the Russian army," Mr Gungia says.
All sides are in dispute as to who started the war, but Mr Gungia also says Russia's presence was unintended.All sides are in dispute as to who started the war, but Mr Gungia also says Russia's presence was unintended.
"It wasn't the goal. But, it's the current situation and we have to find a way out somehow.""It wasn't the goal. But, it's the current situation and we have to find a way out somehow."
Looking out to the Black Sea, I am reminded that Russia has suggested it may one day want to station its Black Sea fleet in Abkhazia, once its contract with Ukraine, where it is currently based, expires in 2017.Looking out to the Black Sea, I am reminded that Russia has suggested it may one day want to station its Black Sea fleet in Abkhazia, once its contract with Ukraine, where it is currently based, expires in 2017.
If that were to be the case, any such "way out", as Mr Gungia puts it, might become very distant indeed.If that were to be the case, any such "way out", as Mr Gungia puts it, might become very distant indeed.