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Is Victoria’s Secret finally embracing all women? | Is Victoria’s Secret finally embracing all women? |
(3 days later) | |
This week has been a big one for the lingerie industry. | This week has been a big one for the lingerie industry. |
Victoria's Secret - home of the impossibly-sculpted, minutely-clad supermodel - unveiled the first "plus-size" model to grace its stores in its 42-year history. | Victoria's Secret - home of the impossibly-sculpted, minutely-clad supermodel - unveiled the first "plus-size" model to grace its stores in its 42-year history. |
As part of a campaign with British lingerie firm BlueBella, the US underwear giant is featuring body positive campaigner Ali Tate Cutler in its shops alongside transgender model May Simón Lifschitz. | As part of a campaign with British lingerie firm BlueBella, the US underwear giant is featuring body positive campaigner Ali Tate Cutler in its shops alongside transgender model May Simón Lifschitz. |
It is a far cry for a company which, in the words of its now departed chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, had no interest using "plus-size" or transgender models, who the septuagenarian referred to as "transsexuals". | It is a far cry for a company which, in the words of its now departed chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, had no interest using "plus-size" or transgender models, who the septuagenarian referred to as "transsexuals". |
The reaction to the Victoria's Secret-BlueBella campaign, entitled #loveyourself, has been surprise. | The reaction to the Victoria's Secret-BlueBella campaign, entitled #loveyourself, has been surprise. |
Model and influencer Elenna Owen, 22 who attended the launch at the Victoria's Secret Bond Street store in London, said: "Victoria's Secret models are usually very skinny and tall and in the past they made a big fuss about not using other types of models." | Model and influencer Elenna Owen, 22 who attended the launch at the Victoria's Secret Bond Street store in London, said: "Victoria's Secret models are usually very skinny and tall and in the past they made a big fuss about not using other types of models." |
"To be honest, I've never been interested in Victoria's Secret because I'm more on the curvy side myself and it doesn't really relate to me. | "To be honest, I've never been interested in Victoria's Secret because I'm more on the curvy side myself and it doesn't really relate to me. |
"But now I would be more open and in general...when brands celebrate curvier women I'm more inclined to shop there." | "But now I would be more open and in general...when brands celebrate curvier women I'm more inclined to shop there." |
Could it be that Victoria's Secret is finally representing all women of all body types? | Could it be that Victoria's Secret is finally representing all women of all body types? |
'Slow' | 'Slow' |
The answer is not quite. | The answer is not quite. |
Ms Tate-Cutler, who is a UK size 14 to 16, and May Simón Lifschitz are employed by BlueBella, not Victoria's Secret. | Ms Tate-Cutler, who is a UK size 14 to 16, and May Simón Lifschitz are employed by BlueBella, not Victoria's Secret. |
A recent campaign Victoria's Secret ran featuring the models Solange Van Doorn was also a collaboration, this time with LA-firm For Love & Lemons. | A recent campaign Victoria's Secret ran featuring the models Solange Van Doorn was also a collaboration, this time with LA-firm For Love & Lemons. |
And while Victoria's Secret's sister brand, Pink, used its first trans model this year when it hired Valentina Sampaio, the bigger lingerie group is yet to really commit to a fundamental shift that has taken place in the industry. | And while Victoria's Secret's sister brand, Pink, used its first trans model this year when it hired Valentina Sampaio, the bigger lingerie group is yet to really commit to a fundamental shift that has taken place in the industry. |
The company has been "slow to implement meaningful change", according to Citigroup analyst Paul Lejuez, who said that "cultural norms" were "shifting away" from Victoria's Secret. | The company has been "slow to implement meaningful change", according to Citigroup analyst Paul Lejuez, who said that "cultural norms" were "shifting away" from Victoria's Secret. |
The Love & Lemons campaign, which Victoria's Secret describes as a "north star" in terms of where its marketing is heading, was only launched in September. | The Love & Lemons campaign, which Victoria's Secret describes as a "north star" in terms of where its marketing is heading, was only launched in September. |
Katharine Carter, fashion and retail analyst at Edited, says that women now want more comfortable, softer and naturally-shaped underwear inspired by the popularity of athleisure. | |
"Styles like bralettes and triangle bras have risen to the fore whereas push-up bras and balconette bras used to be the drivers of the market," says Ms Carter. | "Styles like bralettes and triangle bras have risen to the fore whereas push-up bras and balconette bras used to be the drivers of the market," says Ms Carter. |
UK retailers have, for example, stocked 39% more triangle bras this year compared to 2018. | UK retailers have, for example, stocked 39% more triangle bras this year compared to 2018. |
Societal changes are also influencing what woman want to see from retailers, including the #metoo movement, which gained momentum in 2017 following widespread allegations of sexual abuse against film producer Harvey Weinstein, | Societal changes are also influencing what woman want to see from retailers, including the #metoo movement, which gained momentum in 2017 following widespread allegations of sexual abuse against film producer Harvey Weinstein, |
Ms Carter says that female empowerment has "eclipsed outdated ideals of what sexy is". | Ms Carter says that female empowerment has "eclipsed outdated ideals of what sexy is". |
She says it is "about women dressing for themselves [and] no longer needing to conform to the stereotypical views of lingerie". | She says it is "about women dressing for themselves [and] no longer needing to conform to the stereotypical views of lingerie". |
Maria Stockova, 26, from the Czech Republic, says that Victoria's Secret is "sometimes too sexy". Nevertheless, she is a fan of the brand and was happy to see Ms Tate Cutler in its store "because I am not thin". | Maria Stockova, 26, from the Czech Republic, says that Victoria's Secret is "sometimes too sexy". Nevertheless, she is a fan of the brand and was happy to see Ms Tate Cutler in its store "because I am not thin". |
'Evolution' | 'Evolution' |
John Mehas, Victoria's Secret's new chief executive - its third in three years - admitted at a recent investor day that the company needs to evolve. | John Mehas, Victoria's Secret's new chief executive - its third in three years - admitted at a recent investor day that the company needs to evolve. |
Though when asked about how he was positioning the company against this backdrop, his answer was somewhat garbled: "The feedback that we get from the social component of the business and the #metoos and some of all of that sort of blended all together, we're going to be responding to." | Though when asked about how he was positioning the company against this backdrop, his answer was somewhat garbled: "The feedback that we get from the social component of the business and the #metoos and some of all of that sort of blended all together, we're going to be responding to." |
The lack of clarity over its marketing has affected sales at Victoria's Secret. | The lack of clarity over its marketing has affected sales at Victoria's Secret. |
It is still a huge brand, with last year's revenue reaching $7.3bn, but its like-for-like store sales - which ignore the boost that a retailer gets from opening new stores - have been heading in the wrong direction for some time. | It is still a huge brand, with last year's revenue reaching $7.3bn, but its like-for-like store sales - which ignore the boost that a retailer gets from opening new stores - have been heading in the wrong direction for some time. |
In contrast, brands who have fully embraced showing all sorts of women in their marketing, have thrived. | In contrast, brands who have fully embraced showing all sorts of women in their marketing, have thrived. |
Aerie, the clothing firm owned by American Eagle Outfitters, launched a campaign in 2014 using models with no airbrushing. It recently reported a 16% rise in like-for-like sales for the three months to 3 August - its 19th consecutive quarter of double digit growth. | Aerie, the clothing firm owned by American Eagle Outfitters, launched a campaign in 2014 using models with no airbrushing. It recently reported a 16% rise in like-for-like sales for the three months to 3 August - its 19th consecutive quarter of double digit growth. |
Who is Victoria? | Who is Victoria? |
Victoria is not just a name used by the firm to sell underwear. she is a collection of ideas about who the company's customer is, according to Mr Mehas. | Victoria is not just a name used by the firm to sell underwear. she is a collection of ideas about who the company's customer is, according to Mr Mehas. |
He said: "She's college educated. Her parents are French and English...we've updated it a bit...she's a USC film student now and not fully at Oxford. | He said: "She's college educated. Her parents are French and English...we've updated it a bit...she's a USC film student now and not fully at Oxford. |
"She's got a fabulous life, she's travelled around the world...and she's in her late 20s, really early 30s, cosmopolitan, has a lot of friends." | "She's got a fabulous life, she's travelled around the world...and she's in her late 20s, really early 30s, cosmopolitan, has a lot of friends." |
One tangible thing Victoria's Secret is doing is "re-evaluating" its flashy annual fashion show, famed for the procession of so-called "Angels" in wings, high heels and underwear. | One tangible thing Victoria's Secret is doing is "re-evaluating" its flashy annual fashion show, famed for the procession of so-called "Angels" in wings, high heels and underwear. |
The televised catwalk show that once drew viewers of 12.4 million, pulled in just 3.3 million viewers in 2018 - a record low. | The televised catwalk show that once drew viewers of 12.4 million, pulled in just 3.3 million viewers in 2018 - a record low. |
It has arguably been eclipsed in recent years by Savage X Fenty, the lingerie line by singer, actress and businesswoman Rihanna, whose events showcase a huge range of body types. | It has arguably been eclipsed in recent years by Savage X Fenty, the lingerie line by singer, actress and businesswoman Rihanna, whose events showcase a huge range of body types. |
Turmoil | Turmoil |
Perhaps one of the reasons Victoria's Secret has struggled to find its way in recent years is the turmoil both inside and outside the company. | Perhaps one of the reasons Victoria's Secret has struggled to find its way in recent years is the turmoil both inside and outside the company. |
As it prepared to unveil the #loveyourself campaign with BlueBella, it emerged that Victoria's Secret executive vice president of stores, April Holt, was stepping down. | As it prepared to unveil the #loveyourself campaign with BlueBella, it emerged that Victoria's Secret executive vice president of stores, April Holt, was stepping down. |
The company also said it was laying off around 15% of its staff at its Ohio headquarters. | The company also said it was laying off around 15% of its staff at its Ohio headquarters. |
Then there's Jeffrey Epstein. | Then there's Jeffrey Epstein. |
The late US financier, was a long-time financial adviser to Les Wexner, the billionaire founder and chief executive of L Brands, the parent company of Victoria's Secret. | The late US financier, was a long-time financial adviser to Les Wexner, the billionaire founder and chief executive of L Brands, the parent company of Victoria's Secret. |
He died in prison in August, while awaiting trial for sex trafficking charges in August. | He died in prison in August, while awaiting trial for sex trafficking charges in August. |
At L Brands' investor day last month, Mr Wexner made it clear he was keen to move forward - as is Victoria's Secret. | At L Brands' investor day last month, Mr Wexner made it clear he was keen to move forward - as is Victoria's Secret. |
Mr Mehas assured shareholders that they would soon "start to see an evolution". | Mr Mehas assured shareholders that they would soon "start to see an evolution". |
"For us, it is being very thoughtful about this precious brand that has been built over the course of 30-40 years," he said. | "For us, it is being very thoughtful about this precious brand that has been built over the course of 30-40 years," he said. |
The campaign with BlueBella could give Victoria's Secret a much-needed injection of energy. | The campaign with BlueBella could give Victoria's Secret a much-needed injection of energy. |
Kate Ormrod, lead retail analyst at WorldData said it is a "good step" for the company. | Kate Ormrod, lead retail analyst at WorldData said it is a "good step" for the company. |
"But perhaps it is a little late in the day." | "But perhaps it is a little late in the day." |
Victoria's Secret declined a request for an interview. | Victoria's Secret declined a request for an interview. |