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Pakistan climber rescue: 'I held my breath listening for his' | |
(about 4 hours later) | |
A man who saved a Scottish climber from perishing on a 22,500ft (6,858m) peak in Pakistan has described how he feared his friend would not return from the expedition alive. | A man who saved a Scottish climber from perishing on a 22,500ft (6,858m) peak in Pakistan has described how he feared his friend would not return from the expedition alive. |
What started as a much-anticipated trip for five highly-experienced climbers to Koyo Zum in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province ended in drama and a very long night for Tom Livingstone and Scot Ally Swinton. | What started as a much-anticipated trip for five highly-experienced climbers to Koyo Zum in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province ended in drama and a very long night for Tom Livingstone and Scot Ally Swinton. |
A mistake with his footing led to Ally, from Leven in Fife, falling about 65ft (20m) and suffering a number of injuries. | A mistake with his footing led to Ally, from Leven in Fife, falling about 65ft (20m) and suffering a number of injuries. |
Seven days earlier, the five friends had split up to tackle different sides of the mountain. | Seven days earlier, the five friends had split up to tackle different sides of the mountain. |
Koyo Zum is a long, narrow mountain with steep icy slopes. The experienced climbers in the British expedition broke into three groups to tackle it. | Koyo Zum is a long, narrow mountain with steep icy slopes. The experienced climbers in the British expedition broke into three groups to tackle it. |
William Sim and John Crook took the left-hand skyline on the east and Tom and Ally took the unclimbed west face. Fellow Scot Uisdean Hawthorn had returned to base camp. | William Sim and John Crook took the left-hand skyline on the east and Tom and Ally took the unclimbed west face. Fellow Scot Uisdean Hawthorn had returned to base camp. |
The pair were enjoying the challenge, reaching a height of 18,000ft (5486m). They described it as an "amazing, testing experience". | The pair were enjoying the challenge, reaching a height of 18,000ft (5486m). They described it as an "amazing, testing experience". |
Then Ally, 30, fell into a crevasse. | Then Ally, 30, fell into a crevasse. |
Tom, 28, said: "I did what anyone would do and cared for him as I'm sure he would for me. | Tom, 28, said: "I did what anyone would do and cared for him as I'm sure he would for me. |
"He was covered in blood from a head wound. I sliced open his trousers to check his leg pain, hoping my fingers wouldn't meet a sharp bone and soft, wet flesh. Thankfully the leg was only badly bruised." | "He was covered in blood from a head wound. I sliced open his trousers to check his leg pain, hoping my fingers wouldn't meet a sharp bone and soft, wet flesh. Thankfully the leg was only badly bruised." |
Tom said he tried to reason through the adrenaline rushing through him. | Tom said he tried to reason through the adrenaline rushing through him. |
He knew they were in a remote region of Pakistan, and the only photo he had seen of their planned descent looked like a "gnarly, long glacier". It would take at least a day to make it down, if they were lucky. | He knew they were in a remote region of Pakistan, and the only photo he had seen of their planned descent looked like a "gnarly, long glacier". It would take at least a day to make it down, if they were lucky. |
Ally was bleeding badly from his head and shivering. | Ally was bleeding badly from his head and shivering. |
They had no gas left and only a few energy bars and nuts left to eat. | They had no gas left and only a few energy bars and nuts left to eat. |
He said: "I knew Ally needed more medical attention than our single bandage could provide. After a few minutes of thought, I pressed the SOS button on our satellite communicator." | He said: "I knew Ally needed more medical attention than our single bandage could provide. After a few minutes of thought, I pressed the SOS button on our satellite communicator." |
Ally stayed conscious as they waited for the helicopter rescue, but in the first afternoon Tom noticed he seemed very faint, unresponsive and weak. | Ally stayed conscious as they waited for the helicopter rescue, but in the first afternoon Tom noticed he seemed very faint, unresponsive and weak. |
He admitted: "For a time, I was genuinely concerned he might die in the night. | He admitted: "For a time, I was genuinely concerned he might die in the night. |
"It was quite an experience to spoon Ally, covered in blood, throughout the night. I can still smell the blood. | "It was quite an experience to spoon Ally, covered in blood, throughout the night. I can still smell the blood. |
"I listened to his breathing, already irregular from the altitude, and when his breath paused for seconds... and seconds... and I'd give him a nudge, my own breath held for his next inhale." | "I listened to his breathing, already irregular from the altitude, and when his breath paused for seconds... and seconds... and I'd give him a nudge, my own breath held for his next inhale." |
Thankfully, his condition improved by the next day and relief came in the form of the sound of helicopter rotor blades. | Thankfully, his condition improved by the next day and relief came in the form of the sound of helicopter rotor blades. |
Thanks to the Pakistani army, all five were then rescued. | Thanks to the Pakistani army, all five were then rescued. |
Tom and Ally were taken off the mountain on 30 September and Ally received the medical treatment he needed in Gilgit-Baltistan. | Tom and Ally were taken off the mountain on 30 September and Ally received the medical treatment he needed in Gilgit-Baltistan. |
The pair are now home and grateful for the rescue. But they want to remember the climb as one of the best they have ever done. | The pair are now home and grateful for the rescue. But they want to remember the climb as one of the best they have ever done. |
Tom said: "I hold myself to high standards and ethics. I want to push the limits of climbing high and free. I have echoed others' comments in the past about these standards: 'If you get frostbite on a route, you lose. If you get rescued on a route, you lose.' | Tom said: "I hold myself to high standards and ethics. I want to push the limits of climbing high and free. I have echoed others' comments in the past about these standards: 'If you get frostbite on a route, you lose. If you get rescued on a route, you lose.' |
"We got rescued. We ultimately lost by those terms. The main thing is that we're both safe and well and we had an amazing adventure." | "We got rescued. We ultimately lost by those terms. The main thing is that we're both safe and well and we had an amazing adventure." |
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