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Diary: The road to Bethlehem Why am I doing this?
(about 6 hours later)
BBC correspondent Aleem Maqbool writes an online diary as he walks from Nazareth to Bethlehem, with Cynthia the donkey, retracing the Christmas journey made by Joseph and Mary in the New Testament. BBC correspondent Aleem Maqbool explains his motivation for retracing the Christmas journey made by Joseph and Mary in the New Testament.
WHY AM I DOING THIS?
For all the sacred places in this region - Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Jericho - it is the land in-between where you can often feel most connected to history.For all the sacred places in this region - Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Jericho - it is the land in-between where you can often feel most connected to history.
The hills and valleys have played a part in so many of the stories that still shape the lives of millions around the world today.The hills and valleys have played a part in so many of the stories that still shape the lives of millions around the world today.
Whether you believe Mary and Joseph's walk ever took place or not, most of us became familiar with the story at a young age.Whether you believe Mary and Joseph's walk ever took place or not, most of us became familiar with the story at a young age.
Many of us are even scarred by embarrassing moments acting in school nativity plays - or perhaps that is just me... I once played a sheep.Many of us are even scarred by embarrassing moments acting in school nativity plays - or perhaps that is just me... I once played a sheep.
If it did happen, the journey of around 150km (93 miles), along Roman roads and dirt tracks, is likely to have been an arduous one, particularly for a heavily pregnant woman.If it did happen, the journey of around 150km (93 miles), along Roman roads and dirt tracks, is likely to have been an arduous one, particularly for a heavily pregnant woman.
What does not get included in the nativity plays, is the probability that the couple also faced hostility from Samaritans who lived in what is now the northern West Bank.What does not get included in the nativity plays, is the probability that the couple also faced hostility from Samaritans who lived in what is now the northern West Bank.
Complex landComplex land
Of course, there are new difficulties today. The supposed route goes through areas of continued conflict between Israelis and Palestinians.Of course, there are new difficulties today. The supposed route goes through areas of continued conflict between Israelis and Palestinians.
Click here for route mapClick here for route map
Army incursions, militancy, and checkpoints manned by soldiers are commonplace, and all have the potential to interrupt my journey.Army incursions, militancy, and checkpoints manned by soldiers are commonplace, and all have the potential to interrupt my journey.
Still, the notion of a walk from Nazareth to Bethlehem is, for me, a romantic one.Still, the notion of a walk from Nazareth to Bethlehem is, for me, a romantic one.
When I have told people here what I intend to do, they have generally seemed quite amused, but understand that it is a vehicle to tell modern day stories along this ancient route.When I have told people here what I intend to do, they have generally seemed quite amused, but understand that it is a vehicle to tell modern day stories along this ancient route.
It will hopefully help me to get to know at least a little bit more about this complex land through getting to hear people's stories on the way.It will hopefully help me to get to know at least a little bit more about this complex land through getting to hear people's stories on the way.
For carrying daily provisions and equipment, a donkey seemed as practical a solution now as it might have done two millennia ago, and will, of course, be an added connection to the tale that inspired the journey.For carrying daily provisions and equipment, a donkey seemed as practical a solution now as it might have done two millennia ago, and will, of course, be an added connection to the tale that inspired the journey.
MONDAY, 15 DECEMBER: NAZARETH
I am due to start where tradition has it that Mary and Joseph started. Two thousand years ago, Nazareth is thought to have been a tiny agricultural hamlet.
Now, the remains of what many people believe to be Mary's home are enshrined in a massive basilica.
A little way up the hill, another church houses the excavated ruins of what was thought to be Joseph's carpentry workshop.
My guide, Najib, proudly told me that St Joseph's had always been his local church, and the place where he was baptised.
Nazareth is thought to have remained mainly Christian until 1948. Then it took in a massive influx of refugees, as people from surrounding Arabs towns (mainly Muslims) fled, or were forced out of their homes, when the state of Israel was created.
While a lot of the people that live here now are happy to be called "Arab Israelis", many of even the younger generations identify themselves as Palestinian.
People in a kebab shop on the main street told me that a lot of young people are choosing to move away.
Fitness concerns
Tourism to Nazareth, and employment here, suffered greatly in the early part of this decade, with an upsurge in the conflict.
News of the frequent bomb attacks around Israel, and retaliatory military action, caused many potential pilgrims to think twice about their trip.
Now, the suicide bombings have become relatively rare, and the tourism industry is slowly picking up again, but this remains, of course, an unpredictable region.
It is close to the Church of the Annunciation - where many Christians believe the angel, Gabriel, appeared to Mary in her home - that I have arranged to meet Cynthia, the donkey.
From there, the two of us will head south (mainly downhill, thankfully) to the town of Afula, towards the Israeli checkpoint that I hope to cross into the West Bank, on Day Two.
I am worried about my fitness... 150km in 10 days suddenly seems like quite a lot.
However, I have a had a final read of Luke's Gospel (though it is thin on details about the journey), and have downloaded the rest of the New Testament onto my mp3 player, so feel ready to hit the road.