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The Dinner Everyone Freaks Out Over The Dinner Everyone Freaks Out Over
(about 8 hours later)
On Saturday night, we had dinner at my brother’s place, pulling up to his house at the end of a blazing hot day to find he had made a full taco night spread, a mirage shimmering just past the front door. These were not tacos in the “It was like I was at the market in Mexico City!” sense. It was a taco kit-style deal, with seasoned sautéed ground beef and turkey; a platter of soft tortillas and hard shells; bowls of shredded lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, sliced avocado, salsa; black beans and rice on the side; cold beer. It was a blast, the most fun I’d seen kids and grown-ups have sharing the exact same meal together in a long time.On Saturday night, we had dinner at my brother’s place, pulling up to his house at the end of a blazing hot day to find he had made a full taco night spread, a mirage shimmering just past the front door. These were not tacos in the “It was like I was at the market in Mexico City!” sense. It was a taco kit-style deal, with seasoned sautéed ground beef and turkey; a platter of soft tortillas and hard shells; bowls of shredded lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, sliced avocado, salsa; black beans and rice on the side; cold beer. It was a blast, the most fun I’d seen kids and grown-ups have sharing the exact same meal together in a long time.
A superb non-kit recipe is below, and I highly recommend reading the thoughtful and joyous column that goes with it, by Sam Sifton, and I’m not just saying that because he’s my boss. (He also told me that when he makes this dish he likes to load up a hard shell taco and then wrap a flour tortilla around it, creating a sort of edible napkin that soaks up flavor.) A superb non-kit recipe is below, and I highly recommend reading the thoughtful and joyous column that goes with it, by Sam Sifton, and I’m not just saying that because he’s my boss. (He also told me that when he makes this dish he likes to load up a hard-shell taco and then wrap a flour tortilla around it, creating a sort of edible napkin that soaks up flavor.)
And two follow-ups to recent newsletters: First, Georgia peach lovers really came at me (in a kind way) when I asserted that nectarines were superior. It’s true, I’ve never had a freshly picked Georgia peach! Only the ones that are shipped up north. I now know that I haven’t truly lived, and I would love to fix that as soon as possible. I also made Alison Roman’s lamb skewers with lemony onions, but I had only ground pork (and no actual skewers), so I mixed the spices into the meat, made little patties about two inches across, and pan-fried them. It was great. (Have you made any newsletter recipes lately? Tell me what you thought at dearemily@nytimes.com.)And two follow-ups to recent newsletters: First, Georgia peach lovers really came at me (in a kind way) when I asserted that nectarines were superior. It’s true, I’ve never had a freshly picked Georgia peach! Only the ones that are shipped up north. I now know that I haven’t truly lived, and I would love to fix that as soon as possible. I also made Alison Roman’s lamb skewers with lemony onions, but I had only ground pork (and no actual skewers), so I mixed the spices into the meat, made little patties about two inches across, and pan-fried them. It was great. (Have you made any newsletter recipes lately? Tell me what you thought at dearemily@nytimes.com.)
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Here are five dishes for the week:Here are five dishes for the week:
1. Middle-School Tacos1. Middle-School Tacos
I would not hold back on the toppings with this recipe, since they contribute texture, flavor and fireworks. (And let’s be real: You are not having a salad on the side, so you need your shredded lettuce, your avocado, your diced tomatoes.) Swap turkey for the beef if you like, and serve with black beans or maybe sautéed corn on the side.I would not hold back on the toppings with this recipe, since they contribute texture, flavor and fireworks. (And let’s be real: You are not having a salad on the side, so you need your shredded lettuce, your avocado, your diced tomatoes.) Swap turkey for the beef if you like, and serve with black beans or maybe sautéed corn on the side.
View this recipe.View this recipe.
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2. Pasta With Marinated Tomatoes and Summer Herbs2. Pasta With Marinated Tomatoes and Summer Herbs
Here’s how I made I slightly streamlined version of this salty, delicious, sort of sexily Italian pasta work on a Monday: Arrived home at 6:40. (Toddler had already eaten.) Alexa played “Baby Shark” six times while toddler danced, and I diced the tomatoes and salted them in one bowl, and combined the remaining ingredients (canned tuna, capers, herbs, oil, lemon zest) in another. After 30 minutes, I drained the tomatoes, stirred the tuna-herb mixture, and put a pot of water on to boil. After another 30 minutes — 1 hour total — I tossed it all together with the cooked pasta, and the adults devoured it. Note that I halved the recipe, but it’s just as easy to make the whole thing. It’s also easy to make vegetarian (swap out tuna for mozzarella) or vegan (don’t use either).Here’s how I made I slightly streamlined version of this salty, delicious, sort of sexily Italian pasta work on a Monday: Arrived home at 6:40. (Toddler had already eaten.) Alexa played “Baby Shark” six times while toddler danced, and I diced the tomatoes and salted them in one bowl, and combined the remaining ingredients (canned tuna, capers, herbs, oil, lemon zest) in another. After 30 minutes, I drained the tomatoes, stirred the tuna-herb mixture, and put a pot of water on to boil. After another 30 minutes — 1 hour total — I tossed it all together with the cooked pasta, and the adults devoured it. Note that I halved the recipe, but it’s just as easy to make the whole thing. It’s also easy to make vegetarian (swap out tuna for mozzarella) or vegan (don’t use either).
View this recipe.View this recipe.
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3. Classic Chicken Schnitzel With Smashed Cucumbers3. Classic Chicken Schnitzel With Smashed Cucumbers
I love schnitzel, but I want you to focus on those juicy smashed cucumbers and their craggy edges. Smashed cucumbers are never better than in the middle of summer, and this is a superb way to deploy them. If you don’t have or care for harissa, you could toss the cucumbers with lemon juice and olive oil, or a mixture of rice wine vinegar and toasted sesame oil with a bit of soy sauce. I’d just eat this for dinner, but you could add rice or another grain on the side.I love schnitzel, but I want you to focus on those juicy smashed cucumbers and their craggy edges. Smashed cucumbers are never better than in the middle of summer, and this is a superb way to deploy them. If you don’t have or care for harissa, you could toss the cucumbers with lemon juice and olive oil, or a mixture of rice wine vinegar and toasted sesame oil with a bit of soy sauce. I’d just eat this for dinner, but you could add rice or another grain on the side.
View this recipe.View this recipe.
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4. Zucchini Salad With Pecorino, Basil and Almonds4. Zucchini Salad With Pecorino, Basil and Almonds
The raw zucchini salad you’ve been looking for. This one is crunchy and cool and a little spiky in its flavors. To make it into a meal, toss it with penne or pearl couscous, eat it with ricotta toast or serve it as a side dish with simple pan-roasted fish.The raw zucchini salad you’ve been looking for. This one is crunchy and cool and a little spiky in its flavors. To make it into a meal, toss it with penne or pearl couscous, eat it with ricotta toast or serve it as a side dish with simple pan-roasted fish.
View this recipe.View this recipe.
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5. Crispy Parmesan Eggs5. Crispy Parmesan Eggs
This is more of a trick than a recipe, using salty, lacy fried Parmesan to turn fried eggs up to 11. I’d eat these with tomato salad and toast, or garlicky tomato toast, but they’d also be excellent over simple sautéed zucchini, summer corn or kale. Or slide one of these eggs on top of a bowl of farro e pepe! You’d be a hero.This is more of a trick than a recipe, using salty, lacy fried Parmesan to turn fried eggs up to 11. I’d eat these with tomato salad and toast, or garlicky tomato toast, but they’d also be excellent over simple sautéed zucchini, summer corn or kale. Or slide one of these eggs on top of a bowl of farro e pepe! You’d be a hero.
View this recipe.View this recipe.
As always, thanks for reading. Follow NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest for an endless stream of good food ideas; follow me on Instagram to see what I’m cooking. Previous newsletters are archived here. Love NYT Cooking? Consider becoming a subscriber. I’m dearemily@nytimes.com, and if you have any problems with your account, email cookingcare@nytimes.com.As always, thanks for reading. Follow NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest for an endless stream of good food ideas; follow me on Instagram to see what I’m cooking. Previous newsletters are archived here. Love NYT Cooking? Consider becoming a subscriber. I’m dearemily@nytimes.com, and if you have any problems with your account, email cookingcare@nytimes.com.