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Ugly scars of war in DR Congo Ugly scars of war in DR Congo
(about 18 hours later)
BY David Loyn BBC News By David Loyn BBC News
The current conflict in the Democratic Republic of Congo is centred around the eastern town of Goma, but the effects are felt far beyond that.The current conflict in the Democratic Republic of Congo is centred around the eastern town of Goma, but the effects are felt far beyond that.
The way to the village of Mutwanga is a bone-crushing journey, plunging down from a high ridge along a dirt track. Rival armies are recruiting and indoctrinating childrenThe way to the village of Mutwanga is a bone-crushing journey, plunging down from a high ridge along a dirt track. Rival armies are recruiting and indoctrinating children
In places, we had to stop the vehicle altogether to rebuild bridges of branches and planks across drainage ditches, where rainwater had tried to reclaim the track for the jungle again.In places, we had to stop the vehicle altogether to rebuild bridges of branches and planks across drainage ditches, where rainwater had tried to reclaim the track for the jungle again.
At the bottom of the valley, the vegetation is thick and giant tropical palms are laced together by an impenetrable thicket of creepers - a jungle out of a dream, flanking the River Nile.At the bottom of the valley, the vegetation is thick and giant tropical palms are laced together by an impenetrable thicket of creepers - a jungle out of a dream, flanking the River Nile.
Even up here, half a continent away from its mouth near Cairo, it is a mighty river. As wide as the Thames as it comes into London, but far more intense - deep, muddy, mysterious, cutting its way through the thick tropical forest.Even up here, half a continent away from its mouth near Cairo, it is a mighty river. As wide as the Thames as it comes into London, but far more intense - deep, muddy, mysterious, cutting its way through the thick tropical forest.
Ugly scarsUgly scars
After travelling up the other side into the foothills of the Ruwenzori range, including Africa's third-highest peak, shrouded in mist above us, the air is thinner and breathing becomes harder as we walk through the village.After travelling up the other side into the foothills of the Ruwenzori range, including Africa's third-highest peak, shrouded in mist above us, the air is thinner and breathing becomes harder as we walk through the village.
This mountain fastness was remote from the front line, even when 11 nations fought in what is now called Africa's Great War in the late 1990s, when three, four or five million people died. Nobody knows how many for sure.This mountain fastness was remote from the front line, even when 11 nations fought in what is now called Africa's Great War in the late 1990s, when three, four or five million people died. Nobody knows how many for sure.
But even if there was no physical fighting here, the war came all the same.But even if there was no physical fighting here, the war came all the same.
A schoolgirl shows the ugly scar of a bullet hole in her leg after being held for four years by militiamen, who had seized her from her home in the night.A schoolgirl shows the ugly scar of a bullet hole in her leg after being held for four years by militiamen, who had seized her from her home in the night.
And this year the militia have come back.And this year the militia have come back.
One day recently, as two brothers aged eight and 12 were tending a vegetable patch in front of their house, gunmen emerged into the village and took them away as recruits. Their mother told me 20 other boys were taken that morning too.One day recently, as two brothers aged eight and 12 were tending a vegetable patch in front of their house, gunmen emerged into the village and took them away as recruits. Their mother told me 20 other boys were taken that morning too.
Although all sides use child soldiers, the kidnappers were probably the Mai-Mai, who portray themselves as a defence force, protecting the community at a time of unrest against the rebel army led by Laurent Nkunda.Although all sides use child soldiers, the kidnappers were probably the Mai-Mai, who portray themselves as a defence force, protecting the community at a time of unrest against the rebel army led by Laurent Nkunda.
They believe their warriors are invested with magical powers that can turn stones into bombs, and protect them from bullets.They believe their warriors are invested with magical powers that can turn stones into bombs, and protect them from bullets.
Their roots lie among the Mai-Mai rebels who began a campaign to force an end to Belgian rule in the late 1950s.Their roots lie among the Mai-Mai rebels who began a campaign to force an end to Belgian rule in the late 1950s.
While filming an interview with an ex-Mai-Mai commander, I heard one of those things you hear very occasionally that you cannot quite believe you heard properly.While filming an interview with an ex-Mai-Mai commander, I heard one of those things you hear very occasionally that you cannot quite believe you heard properly.
"C'etait mon pere qui a mange le premier belge," he said in a matter-of-fact way. "My father was the first to eat a Belgian.""C'etait mon pere qui a mange le premier belge," he said in a matter-of-fact way. "My father was the first to eat a Belgian."
BrutalityBrutality
Belgian control of the Congo began with the slavery and murder sanctioned by King Leopold in the late 19th Century, as he turned this vast piece of Africa into his personal possession. It is a measure of this dysfunctional society that it should turn to the Mai Mai for defence at a time of crisisBelgian control of the Congo began with the slavery and murder sanctioned by King Leopold in the late 19th Century, as he turned this vast piece of Africa into his personal possession. It is a measure of this dysfunctional society that it should turn to the Mai Mai for defence at a time of crisis
One authoritative estimate has put the number killed by Leopold at 10 million.One authoritative estimate has put the number killed by Leopold at 10 million.
His troops needed to account for every bullet they were given, so they would cut the hands off those they killed as proof.His troops needed to account for every bullet they were given, so they would cut the hands off those they killed as proof.
And if they lost a bullet or used one to kill an animal to eat, then they would have to cut the hand off a living person - just one of the European practices that so brutalised Africa that by the late 1950s eating Belgians felt justifiable.And if they lost a bullet or used one to kill an animal to eat, then they would have to cut the hand off a living person - just one of the European practices that so brutalised Africa that by the late 1950s eating Belgians felt justifiable.
And now the Mai Mai are back, recruiting and indoctrinating boys and girls for another jungle war.And now the Mai Mai are back, recruiting and indoctrinating boys and girls for another jungle war.
My guide was Henri Bura Ladyi, a tireless campaigner for peace, who spends his time trying to keep the community together, mobilising the churches to collect food and blankets and finding shelter for the tens of thousands of displaced people flooding in already as the fighting worsens further south.My guide was Henri Bura Ladyi, a tireless campaigner for peace, who spends his time trying to keep the community together, mobilising the churches to collect food and blankets and finding shelter for the tens of thousands of displaced people flooding in already as the fighting worsens further south.
The displaced are settling into shop fronts, bus stations, the garden of the town hall, anywhere they can find, and Henri is trying to persuade local businesses not to pay the Mai Mai to protect the area again.The displaced are settling into shop fronts, bus stations, the garden of the town hall, anywhere they can find, and Henri is trying to persuade local businesses not to pay the Mai Mai to protect the area again.
It is a measure of this dysfunctional society that it should turn to the Mai Mai for defence at a time of crisis.It is a measure of this dysfunctional society that it should turn to the Mai Mai for defence at a time of crisis.
Government forces are weak, corrupt, poorly-paid and led by regional warlords who do not necessarily owe loyalty to President Joseph Kabila, 1,200 miles (2,000km) away in the capital Kinshasa.Government forces are weak, corrupt, poorly-paid and led by regional warlords who do not necessarily owe loyalty to President Joseph Kabila, 1,200 miles (2,000km) away in the capital Kinshasa.
Many have not been paid for months.Many have not been paid for months.
'Indoctrinated''Indoctrinated'
In the school in the village of Mutwanga, I listen in to a class where an enthusiastic teacher has a catchphrase in English.In the school in the village of Mutwanga, I listen in to a class where an enthusiastic teacher has a catchphrase in English.
David Loyn found children collecting rocks and not attending school "Time is money" he says, "time is money," bustling along to encourage the boys as they write in this unfamiliar language.David Loyn found children collecting rocks and not attending school "Time is money" he says, "time is money," bustling along to encourage the boys as they write in this unfamiliar language.
Twenty boys are missing, though, being indoctrinated in a different way in the jungle.Twenty boys are missing, though, being indoctrinated in a different way in the jungle.
Part of the school day is taken up by the children going out to collect rocks to help for a new building at the school. Remote from central government, they need to help themselves.Part of the school day is taken up by the children going out to collect rocks to help for a new building at the school. Remote from central government, they need to help themselves.
That is how conflict causes poverty.That is how conflict causes poverty.
In a place full of valuable mineral wealth and surrounded by a landscape that should be a tourist paradise, schoolchildren collect rocks when they should be in lessons.In a place full of valuable mineral wealth and surrounded by a landscape that should be a tourist paradise, schoolchildren collect rocks when they should be in lessons.
This report will be broadcast on BBC Two's Newsnight on Friday 12 December at 2235 GMT.This report will be broadcast on BBC Two's Newsnight on Friday 12 December at 2235 GMT.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 6 December, 2008 at 1130 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 6 December, 2008 at 1130 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.