A New Trend at Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Yellow Vests?

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/16/fashion/yellow-vest-protests-dior-france.html

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Over nine straight weekends, the antigovernment demonstrations against President Emmanuel Macron of France and his economic policies by members of the so-called Yellow Vest movement have caused some of the country’s worst civil unrest in more than a decade. The luxury goods industry, one of France’s top export categories and a major driver of tourism in Paris, has been especially hard hit, with scores of boutiques vandalized and poor sales during the all-important holiday season, when nervous shoppers stayed away.

Now, the disruption has changed the fashion calendar.

This week, as the season of Paris men’s shows began and a 10th Saturday of demonstrations was anticipated, the official schedule was turned upside down by brands trying to avoid the delays caused by blocked roads and police lines, or worse, violent skirmishes with protesters.

The domino effect began with one of the biggest names on the lineup: Dior. The heritage fashion house, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has become one of several luxury companies seized upon by protesters as a potent symbol of inequality and elitism. On Nov. 25, demonstrators ransacked the Dior store on the Champs-Élysées, stealing goods and causing damage reportedly worth €1 million ($1.14 million). Last week, Dior told guests via an email that it had rescheduled its men’s show — which will introduce the second men’s collection by Kim Jones — from Saturday at 5 p.m. to Friday at 6 p.m.

Next, Thom Browne said that, upon advice given by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body of the French fashion industry that oversees fashion week schedules, it would move its Saturday show from 2 p.m. to an 11 a.m. slot. Loewe followed suit, jumping to 10 a.m., bumping Sacai from that slot to a 9 a.m. start.

Ralph Toledano, the federation president, confirmed in a statement that the organization had been “working with the Paris police, which have made a number of recommendations concerning locations and time slots. Naturally, they are implementing every possible and imaginable measure, so we have followed those recommendations in a responsible manner.”

And the result? Unless there are additional changes later this week, there will be a sizable gap on Saturday between the Browne show midmorning and Hermès at 8 p.m. Also, most brands are opting to keep their show locations confidential until the last possible moment to deter any interruptions from protesters.

No brand would make any official statement about the changes this week, underscoring the climate of fear that has enveloped luxury houses in recent weeks (and included a drop in share prices for groups including LVMH, Richemont and Kering). And as of midday Wednesday, the federation’s online calendar, labeled the “definitive schedule,” reflected none of the recent changes.

As yet, no end appears to be in sight for the protests, which have taken place in cities around France and initially were triggered by a planned rise in fuel taxes. The complaints have since widened to include anger at the cost of living and income inequities, as well as a wide-ranging list of demands. For now, the yellow vests — once just worn by construction and road workers and required to be carried in vehicles across France — appear to be the most omnipresent garment of all.