This article is from the source 'nytimes' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.

You can find the current article at its original source at https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/20/dining/pasta-bake-recipe.html

The article has changed 2 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.

Version 0 Version 1
A Baked Pasta for Anytime (but Especially Now) A Baked Pasta for Anytime (but Especially Now)
(about 13 hours later)
The blustery, freezing December weather is bad for many things — my hair, my commute, my morning run. But it’s awfully good for baking a cheesy pasta in a skillet.The blustery, freezing December weather is bad for many things — my hair, my commute, my morning run. But it’s awfully good for baking a cheesy pasta in a skillet.
That’s not to say that I wouldn’t make this cozy, gooey Cheddar-rich casserole in nicer weather. But the colder, darker and gloomier the day, the more entitled I feel to plunge my spoon into the still-bubbling pan as soon as it comes out of the oven, devouring bite after bite.That’s not to say that I wouldn’t make this cozy, gooey Cheddar-rich casserole in nicer weather. But the colder, darker and gloomier the day, the more entitled I feel to plunge my spoon into the still-bubbling pan as soon as it comes out of the oven, devouring bite after bite.
What makes this pasta casserole a little different from others of its cheese-laden, tomato-sauced ilk is the addition of onions and spices.What makes this pasta casserole a little different from others of its cheese-laden, tomato-sauced ilk is the addition of onions and spices.
The onions, sautéed until golden all over and very tender, do double duty. After being cooked hot and fast in a deep-sided skillet until they brown and collapse, some are left in the pan to bolster the tomato sauce and form the foundation of the dish’s flavor. The rest are combined with the Cheddar topping so that the sweet oniony strands can mingle with the melted cheese, adding silkiness to every forkful.The onions, sautéed until golden all over and very tender, do double duty. After being cooked hot and fast in a deep-sided skillet until they brown and collapse, some are left in the pan to bolster the tomato sauce and form the foundation of the dish’s flavor. The rest are combined with the Cheddar topping so that the sweet oniony strands can mingle with the melted cheese, adding silkiness to every forkful.
The onions here aren’t just jammy and sweet: They’ve got spunk. They’re spiced with both ground and whole cumin seeds for earthiness, coriander and allspice for depth, and cayenne and black pepper for a sharp bite. As the sauce simmers, a heady fragrance will waft from the pan and settle over your kitchen, brightening the dampest evenings even before you dig in.The onions here aren’t just jammy and sweet: They’ve got spunk. They’re spiced with both ground and whole cumin seeds for earthiness, coriander and allspice for depth, and cayenne and black pepper for a sharp bite. As the sauce simmers, a heady fragrance will waft from the pan and settle over your kitchen, brightening the dampest evenings even before you dig in.
Mozzarella is usually the cheese of choice for baked pastas, but I use Cheddar here for its tanginess, which is better able to hold its own against the cumin-scented onions and zippy tomato sauce. Cheddar, especially the kind that’s been aged for more than six months, also has a slightly lower moisture content than most mozzarella, so it is more likely to singe and blacken at the edges of the skillet you bake it in. These nearly burned spots are my favorite, and it takes all my willpower not to pick them off before bringing the pan to the table for everyone to share.Mozzarella is usually the cheese of choice for baked pastas, but I use Cheddar here for its tanginess, which is better able to hold its own against the cumin-scented onions and zippy tomato sauce. Cheddar, especially the kind that’s been aged for more than six months, also has a slightly lower moisture content than most mozzarella, so it is more likely to singe and blacken at the edges of the skillet you bake it in. These nearly burned spots are my favorite, and it takes all my willpower not to pick them off before bringing the pan to the table for everyone to share.
But share them I do, because a golden-topped pan full of baked pasta studded with crisp shards of browned onion and cheese is a savory and satisfying delight, whether it’s a bone-chilling December evening, or a temperate spring afternoon.But share them I do, because a golden-topped pan full of baked pasta studded with crisp shards of browned onion and cheese is a savory and satisfying delight, whether it’s a bone-chilling December evening, or a temperate spring afternoon.
Recipe: Baked Skillet Pasta With Cheddar and Spiced OnionsRecipe: Baked Skillet Pasta With Cheddar and Spiced Onions
Some dishes cry out for a certain type of wine. This one depends on your mood. The sweetness of the onions and the richness of the melted cheese will be the dominant flavors, which argue for a crisp white, the sort you find all over Italy. Fiano from Campania, vermentino from Liguria, a good Orvieto from Umbria, all should work well. At the same time, the cooked tomato sauce will be inviting to a red, preferably one that’s not too tannic or oaky. Barbera — a red that often acts like a white because of its high acidity and modest tannins — would be ideal. Dolcetto would also be lovely, as would a dry Lambrusco. From the more esoteric side, you might try a cesanese from Lazio, which can be deliciously fresh and aromatic. ERIC ASIMOV
Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.