With a Little Wine (and a Lot of Herbs), Clams Turn On the Charm

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/20/dining/steamed-clams-recipe.html

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I have more than a few unpopular opinions about food (sandwiches are just O.K.), but I think one that really gets people going is this: Clams are the best bivalves. There, I said it. Raw, they are milder, brinier and cleaner than an oyster. Steamed, they are juicier, meatier and less fishy than a mussel. They are perfect in every way.

To convince you that this is true, I suggest cooking clams in a pool of toasted garlic oil with a dry, acidic white wine (nothing you wouldn’t drink, please) and lots of thinly sliced celery, topped with tons of herbs and a squeeze of lemon.

There could be smoked or spiced pork like chorizo, sausage or bacon added at the beginning with the garlic if that’s your thing (it is absolutely my thing), but no pressure.

To eat, I like to set the pot I’ve steamed them in on the table along with some buttered toast or torn hunks of crusty bread for dipping and soaking up all the juices.

If the clams are especially large, I have been known to go through the trouble of picking them from their shells, coarsely chopping them, and adding them back to the broth with the celery and chorizo, then spooning this mixture onto the toast, eating the whole thing in a civilized fashion with a knife and fork (alternatively, bare hands).

When you’re selecting the clams for this purpose, smaller is better. Littlenecks can come in varying sizes, but the sweet spot for me is one that is roughly between the size of a large grape and small apricot. They are the most popular and widely available clams, but if you have access to varieties like Manila clams (one of the smallest) or cockles (a small clamlike bivalve) then go for those, because they are sweet and mild and incredibly delicious.

Recipe: Littleneck Clams With Celery and Toasted Garlic

This steamed clam dish calls for a bone-dry, taut white that is as bracing and refreshing as a dunk in the ocean. That leaves a lot of territory: Both France and Italy abound in these sorts of wines. Muscadet from the Atlantic end of the Loire is a natural choice, as is Etna Bianco, made of the carricante grape, from Sicily. Vermentino from Liguria or Corsica (where it is called vermentinu) would be delicious. The sauvignon blanc wines of the Loire would likewise work well, as long as they are not too fruity or flamboyant. Chablis would be a slightly more elevated choice, while good aligoté from Burgundy would be a delightful outlier. For sherry lovers, it will not get much better than a good bottle of manzanilla. ERIC ASIMOV

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