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| Rich Flanders seeks more autonomy | Rich Flanders seeks more autonomy |
| (about 8 hours later) | |
| Belgian politicians are struggling to end a crisis that has paralysed the government for 15 months. At the heart of the stalemate are the rival aspirations of Dutch and French-speakers. In the first of a series of articles on divided Belgium, Henri Astier profiles Flanders. | Belgian politicians are struggling to end a crisis that has paralysed the government for 15 months. At the heart of the stalemate are the rival aspirations of Dutch and French-speakers. In the first of a series of articles on divided Belgium, Henri Astier profiles Flanders. |
Beautiful Antwerp exudes the prosperity and confidence of Flanders | Beautiful Antwerp exudes the prosperity and confidence of Flanders |
| Speed cameras - hardly popular anywhere - are a source of particular irritation in Flanders. | Speed cameras - hardly popular anywhere - are a source of particular irritation in Flanders. |
| More than 1,000 have been installed across the Dutch-speaking northern part of Belgium, while Wallonia, the French-speaking southern half, has only a handful. | More than 1,000 have been installed across the Dutch-speaking northern part of Belgium, while Wallonia, the French-speaking southern half, has only a handful. |
| Yet revenue from fines is collected centrally and redistributed. Many Flemish motorists not only resent being caught speeding, but feel they are subsidising freewheeling Walloons in the process. | Yet revenue from fines is collected centrally and redistributed. Many Flemish motorists not only resent being caught speeding, but feel they are subsidising freewheeling Walloons in the process. |
| The speed cameras provide a neat snapshot of Flemish grievances. | The speed cameras provide a neat snapshot of Flemish grievances. |
| "The hard-working north is supporting the south, just like in Italy," says Pascal Francois, 42, an architect from the town of Aalst. | "The hard-working north is supporting the south, just like in Italy," says Pascal Francois, 42, an architect from the town of Aalst. |
| Flanders indeed has wealth, a hard-working population, and beautiful, world-famous cities - like Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp. | Flanders indeed has wealth, a hard-working population, and beautiful, world-famous cities - like Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp. |
| Many there are asking why their taxes should prop up what they regard as a lagging, mismanaged region. | Many there are asking why their taxes should prop up what they regard as a lagging, mismanaged region. |
| "Walloons should be responsible for what they do," says Roger Vandervoorde, 65, a retired sales director, sipping a drink in front of Ghent's picture-perfect cathedral. | "Walloons should be responsible for what they do," says Roger Vandervoorde, 65, a retired sales director, sipping a drink in front of Ghent's picture-perfect cathedral. |
| "The best would be a confederation, with each part responsible for itself and only a few small matters handled federally." | "The best would be a confederation, with each part responsible for itself and only a few small matters handled federally." |
| Deadlock | Deadlock |
| Such reform is precisely what the Belgian government, dominated by Flemish conservatives, has in mind. | |
| BELGIAN DEVOLUTION Federal government: foreign affairs, defence, justice, health, welfareLanguage-based communities: education, cultureRegional governments: economic policy, labour, housing, environment, energy, transport Belgium's federal conundrum | BELGIAN DEVOLUTION Federal government: foreign affairs, defence, justice, health, welfareLanguage-based communities: education, cultureRegional governments: economic policy, labour, housing, environment, energy, transport Belgium's federal conundrum |
| But the Walloons are digging in their heels. They regard confederation as secession in all but name, and insist on keeping tax and welfare policies at federal level. | But the Walloons are digging in their heels. They regard confederation as secession in all but name, and insist on keeping tax and welfare policies at federal level. |
| As a result Belgium has not had an effective government since the June 2007 elections. | As a result Belgium has not had an effective government since the June 2007 elections. |
| Pressure in Flanders for more devolution is coming from both ordinary voters and business leaders. | Pressure in Flanders for more devolution is coming from both ordinary voters and business leaders. |
| Luc De Bruyckere, chairman of the Ghent-based food group Ter Beke and vice-president of FEB, Belgium's main employers' federation, says a more regional approach to economic policy is urgently needed. | Luc De Bruyckere, chairman of the Ghent-based food group Ter Beke and vice-president of FEB, Belgium's main employers' federation, says a more regional approach to economic policy is urgently needed. |
| He points out that Flanders has a very tight labour market, while Wallonia is suffering from 17% unemployment. | He points out that Flanders has a very tight labour market, while Wallonia is suffering from 17% unemployment. |
| "We have to organise ourselves in such a way that the different problems can be answered," Mr De Bruykere says. | "We have to organise ourselves in such a way that the different problems can be answered," Mr De Bruykere says. |
| "One size fits all is not a solution." | "One size fits all is not a solution." |
| Remi Vermeiren, a former chairman of the banking giant KBC, contends that Flemish people "believe more in a market economy" than Walloons, and argues for outright independence for Flanders. | Remi Vermeiren, a former chairman of the banking giant KBC, contends that Flemish people "believe more in a market economy" than Walloons, and argues for outright independence for Flanders. |
| Flemish and Walloons give their views on tensions in BelgiumIn pictures | Flemish and Walloons give their views on tensions in BelgiumIn pictures |
| But resurgent Flemish pride is based on much deeper forces than just material wealth. | But resurgent Flemish pride is based on much deeper forces than just material wealth. |
| The cultural divide between Europe's Germanic north and Latin south has run through the middle of Belgium since the Roman Empire. | The cultural divide between Europe's Germanic north and Latin south has run through the middle of Belgium since the Roman Empire. |
| "We are a very dual country with two areas that differ in many, many ways," Mr Vermeiren says. | "We are a very dual country with two areas that differ in many, many ways," Mr Vermeiren says. |
| Language problem | Language problem |
| The sense of Flemish identity is all the more acute as it was suppressed by the French-speaking elites that ran Belgium after the 1830 revolution. | The sense of Flemish identity is all the more acute as it was suppressed by the French-speaking elites that ran Belgium after the 1830 revolution. |
| The constitution was written in French. A Dutch version, written a century later, was not given equal legal force until 1967. | The constitution was written in French. A Dutch version, written a century later, was not given equal legal force until 1967. |
| As the Dutch-speaking majority demanded recognition, it was mainly pressing claims against the Belgian state. | As the Dutch-speaking majority demanded recognition, it was mainly pressing claims against the Belgian state. |
| From the 1960s - with the south's old mining and steel industries in terminal decline and the north powering ahead - a series of constitutional reforms gradually devolved more powers to the regions. | From the 1960s - with the south's old mining and steel industries in terminal decline and the north powering ahead - a series of constitutional reforms gradually devolved more powers to the regions. |
| But for all its economic dominance and political assertiveness, the Flemish still feels culturally on the back foot - and this contributes to their prickliness. | But for all its economic dominance and political assertiveness, the Flemish still feels culturally on the back foot - and this contributes to their prickliness. |
| You don't have a Belgian language or a Belgian nation - you only have Flemish and Walloon people, plus a few Germans Johann DaelmanVlaams Belang | You don't have a Belgian language or a Belgian nation - you only have Flemish and Walloon people, plus a few Germans Johann DaelmanVlaams Belang |
| Wallonia may be poorer, but it is part of the 200m-strong francophone community. | Wallonia may be poorer, but it is part of the 200m-strong francophone community. |
| The Flemish are not standing on the shoulders of a friendly giant next door - and can be irked by Walloon cultural self-assurance. | The Flemish are not standing on the shoulders of a friendly giant next door - and can be irked by Walloon cultural self-assurance. |
| Language is a particular sore point. Like their Dutch brethren, the Flemish are taught from an early age the need to learn foreign languages. Walloons are not. | Language is a particular sore point. Like their Dutch brethren, the Flemish are taught from an early age the need to learn foreign languages. Walloons are not. |
| "If we take part in a meeting with, say, eight Dutch-speakers and two French-speakers - we often all end up speaking French so everyone can understand," says Naima Charkaoui of Minderhedenforum, a Brussels-based umbrella group for immigrant associations. | "If we take part in a meeting with, say, eight Dutch-speakers and two French-speakers - we often all end up speaking French so everyone can understand," says Naima Charkaoui of Minderhedenforum, a Brussels-based umbrella group for immigrant associations. |
| Suburban fears | Suburban fears |
| Flemish defensiveness is at its sharpest near Brussels. The capital, which used to have a Dutch-speaking majority until the early 20th Century, is now overwhelmingly francophone. | Flemish defensiveness is at its sharpest near Brussels. The capital, which used to have a Dutch-speaking majority until the early 20th Century, is now overwhelmingly francophone. |
| Its population is spreading outward in search of greenery and cheaper homes - a move that many in the Flemish suburbs find threatening. | Its population is spreading outward in search of greenery and cheaper homes - a move that many in the Flemish suburbs find threatening. |
| Liederkerke, a traditionally working-class town 15 miles (25km) west of Brussels, is one of many suburbs that have seen an influx of both rich expatriates and African immigrants. | Liederkerke, a traditionally working-class town 15 miles (25km) west of Brussels, is one of many suburbs that have seen an influx of both rich expatriates and African immigrants. |
| In Liederkerke, the Flemish are at home, and respectful guests welcome | In Liederkerke, the Flemish are at home, and respectful guests welcome |
| "That cocktail is leading to Liederkerke being more French and that is growing fast," says town councillor Johan Daelman, who worries about the "invasion" faced by the city. | "That cocktail is leading to Liederkerke being more French and that is growing fast," says town councillor Johan Daelman, who worries about the "invasion" faced by the city. |
| The number of families without a Dutch-speaking parent has doubled in the past four years, to reach almost a quarter of the 13,000-strong population. | The number of families without a Dutch-speaking parent has doubled in the past four years, to reach almost a quarter of the 13,000-strong population. |
| The town clearly feels the need to remind newcomers where they are. | The town clearly feels the need to remind newcomers where they are. |
| One sign, featuring the Flemish lion, proclaims: "Liedekerke, where the Flemish are at home." Another reads: "Welcome to our Flemish commune." | One sign, featuring the Flemish lion, proclaims: "Liedekerke, where the Flemish are at home." Another reads: "Welcome to our Flemish commune." |
| From Mr Daelman, the message is: "You can come, but don't bring big-city problems and respect local people." | From Mr Daelman, the message is: "You can come, but don't bring big-city problems and respect local people." |
| Mr Daelman belongs to the right-wing Vlaams Belang (Flemish Interest) party, which seeks a separate Flemish Republic. | Mr Daelman belongs to the right-wing Vlaams Belang (Flemish Interest) party, which seeks a separate Flemish Republic. |
| "Belgium will not stay united," he predicts. "You don't have a Belgian language or a Belgian nation. You only have Flemish and Walloon people - plus a few Germans." | "Belgium will not stay united," he predicts. "You don't have a Belgian language or a Belgian nation. You only have Flemish and Walloon people - plus a few Germans." |
| Allegiance | Allegiance |
| Vlaams Belang, widely regarded as xenophobic, is shunned by mainstream parties and in opposition everywhere, including the Liedekerke municipality. | Vlaams Belang, widely regarded as xenophobic, is shunned by mainstream parties and in opposition everywhere, including the Liedekerke municipality. |
| Despite - or perhaps because of - its pariah status, the party has achieved considerable success in recent years by attracting protest votes. | Despite - or perhaps because of - its pariah status, the party has achieved considerable success in recent years by attracting protest votes. |
| It is the largest single party in the Flemish parliament. | It is the largest single party in the Flemish parliament. |
| However a wide majority in Flanders reject Flemish separatism. Most people just want more autonomy within the Belgian state. | However a wide majority in Flanders reject Flemish separatism. Most people just want more autonomy within the Belgian state. |
| "The problem with parties like Vlaams Belang is that they make our job a lot more difficult," says Sam Custers, director of a Flemish cultural centre in Kraainem, another suburb of Brussels. | "The problem with parties like Vlaams Belang is that they make our job a lot more difficult," says Sam Custers, director of a Flemish cultural centre in Kraainem, another suburb of Brussels. |
| "They create a negative image of Flanders. Our message is: we're open to everyone." | "They create a negative image of Flanders. Our message is: we're open to everyone." |
| Flemish pride rarely takes a virulent form. French-speakers visiting Flanders are not in hostile territory. The worst risk they might take is not being served until they make a token attempt to speak Dutch. | Flemish pride rarely takes a virulent form. French-speakers visiting Flanders are not in hostile territory. The worst risk they might take is not being served until they make a token attempt to speak Dutch. |
| But even the least nationalist among the Flemish know where their main allegiance lies. | But even the least nationalist among the Flemish know where their main allegiance lies. |
| "I am Flemish first, Belgian second," says Pascal Francois of Aalst. | "I am Flemish first, Belgian second," says Pascal Francois of Aalst. |