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French restaurants feel the pinch | French restaurants feel the pinch |
(1 day later) | |
By Hugh Schofield Paris | By Hugh Schofield Paris |
Restaurateur Jean-Pierre Difolco says the average bill has plummetedEconomic gloom is hitting the French where it hurts most - their tastebuds - as they rein in their eating habits to balance the monthly budget. | Restaurateur Jean-Pierre Difolco says the average bill has plummetedEconomic gloom is hitting the French where it hurts most - their tastebuds - as they rein in their eating habits to balance the monthly budget. |
New figures show that the bankruptcy rate among restaurants and cafes has skyrocketed since the start of the year - because ordinary people lack the means to dine out. | New figures show that the bankruptcy rate among restaurants and cafes has skyrocketed since the start of the year - because ordinary people lack the means to dine out. |
A long-standing trend from the sit-down towards the take-away is now being exacerbated by financial penury, and many fear that an essential part of the nation's art de la vie is under threat. | A long-standing trend from the sit-down towards the take-away is now being exacerbated by financial penury, and many fear that an essential part of the nation's art de la vie is under threat. |
Alarm bells were rung this week following a report by financial insurance company Euler Hermes, which found that about 3,000 establishments went out of business in the six months from January. | |
Of these, some 1,790 were traditional restaurants - a 25% increase on the year before - 530 were fast-food outlets (up 19%); and 610 were cafes and bars (up 56%). | Of these, some 1,790 were traditional restaurants - a 25% increase on the year before - 530 were fast-food outlets (up 19%); and 610 were cafes and bars (up 56%). |
'No improvement' | 'No improvement' |
"We are very worried," said Daniele Deleval, vice-president of the Union of Hotel and Catering Trades. | "We are very worried," said Daniele Deleval, vice-president of the Union of Hotel and Catering Trades. |
"Since the start of the year the number of people going to restaurants has fallen by 20%, and we see no sign of improvement." | "Since the start of the year the number of people going to restaurants has fallen by 20%, and we see no sign of improvement." |
There are several reasons for the decline. | There are several reasons for the decline. |
For one thing, the move towards American-style snacking is already a long-established phenomenon - with the traditional long lunch steadily being replaced by le sandwich. | For one thing, the move towards American-style snacking is already a long-established phenomenon - with the traditional long lunch steadily being replaced by le sandwich. |
Meanwhile, the ban on tobacco in bars and restaurants that came in earlier this year has hit hard - especially in rural areas. Many customers prefer the liberty of domestic indulgence to the half-pleasure of the smokeless meal. | Meanwhile, the ban on tobacco in bars and restaurants that came in earlier this year has hit hard - especially in rural areas. Many customers prefer the liberty of domestic indulgence to the half-pleasure of the smokeless meal. |
On the one hand the cost of our raw materials is going up, and on the other the disposable income of customers is going down Jean-Pierre Difolco, restaurateur | On the one hand the cost of our raw materials is going up, and on the other the disposable income of customers is going down Jean-Pierre Difolco, restaurateur |
And in Paris and other tourist cities, the strength of the euro has frightened off the Americans - and to a lesser extent the British - who in normal times spend lavishly on French cuisine. | And in Paris and other tourist cities, the strength of the euro has frightened off the Americans - and to a lesser extent the British - who in normal times spend lavishly on French cuisine. |
But the major factor is undoubtedly the French public's own money worries. | But the major factor is undoubtedly the French public's own money worries. |
With spending power in decline, the meal out with friends or family has become a dispensable luxury. | With spending power in decline, the meal out with friends or family has become a dispensable luxury. |
"This is above all an economic crisis," said critic Francois Simon, creator of the Simon-Says food blog. | "This is above all an economic crisis," said critic Francois Simon, creator of the Simon-Says food blog. |
"Along with some other trades - like building - restaurants are the first to be hit when times are bad. | "Along with some other trades - like building - restaurants are the first to be hit when times are bad. |
"People are going out less, and when they do go out they are consuming less. They are cutting down by not having aperitifs or coffee, or by having tap-water instead of mineral water. For a restaurateur, that can make a huge difference." | "People are going out less, and when they do go out they are consuming less. They are cutting down by not having aperitifs or coffee, or by having tap-water instead of mineral water. For a restaurateur, that can make a huge difference." |
No starter | No starter |
According to Simon, some restaurateurs look askance at a growing tendency among clients to order simply a main course with no starter.The smoking ban has made some people stay at home | According to Simon, some restaurateurs look askance at a growing tendency among clients to order simply a main course with no starter.The smoking ban has made some people stay at home |
For example, at the Aux Lyonnais restaurant owned by top chef Alain Ducasse, waiters pointedly warn that the main course may in that case take rather a long time in coming. | For example, at the Aux Lyonnais restaurant owned by top chef Alain Ducasse, waiters pointedly warn that the main course may in that case take rather a long time in coming. |
And at Au Quincy near the Gare de Lyon, two couples were recently asked to leave the establishment after they asked for just a main course. | And at Au Quincy near the Gare de Lyon, two couples were recently asked to leave the establishment after they asked for just a main course. |
"How do you expect me to survive?" the chef exclaimed. | "How do you expect me to survive?" the chef exclaimed. |
Jean-Pierre Difolco, who runs the French-Italian restaurant Il Gallo Nero in Montparnasse, says that in recent months the average bill paid by a customer has fallen from more than 30 euros (£23) to under 25 euros (£19). | Jean-Pierre Difolco, who runs the French-Italian restaurant Il Gallo Nero in Montparnasse, says that in recent months the average bill paid by a customer has fallen from more than 30 euros (£23) to under 25 euros (£19). |
"Nowadays people take a carafe of house wine instead of ordering a bottle, and the vast majority order the set menu instead of a la carte," he says. | "Nowadays people take a carafe of house wine instead of ordering a bottle, and the vast majority order the set menu instead of a la carte," he says. |
"If I hadn't introduced the set menu option, I would have gone under by now," he says. | "If I hadn't introduced the set menu option, I would have gone under by now," he says. |
"On the one hand, the cost of our raw materials is going up, and on the other, the disposable income of customers is going down. | "On the one hand, the cost of our raw materials is going up, and on the other, the disposable income of customers is going down. |
"It means that we have to cut out anything that gives added value - anything that means we can charge more. | "It means that we have to cut out anything that gives added value - anything that means we can charge more. |
"In effect we have to lower quality in order to satisfy the customer," he laments. | "In effect we have to lower quality in order to satisfy the customer," he laments. |
"But then the whole spirit of the restaurant has changed. Ten years ago people played the game. Eating out was fun. Now it's just a way of filling up the stomach. Customers take the menu and their eyes are on the price column, not on the food. It's a great shame." | "But then the whole spirit of the restaurant has changed. Ten years ago people played the game. Eating out was fun. Now it's just a way of filling up the stomach. Customers take the menu and their eyes are on the price column, not on the food. It's a great shame." |
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