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| 20 Wines Under $20: Touring the World, Familiar to Obscure | 20 Wines Under $20: Touring the World, Familiar to Obscure |
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| Wine comes in seemingly endless varieties, from a growing number of places and in countless styles. While the choices may sometimes seem overwhelming, they also present a wonderful opportunity for pleasure and experimentation. | Wine comes in seemingly endless varieties, from a growing number of places and in countless styles. While the choices may sometimes seem overwhelming, they also present a wonderful opportunity for pleasure and experimentation. |
| On a recent expedition through a handful of Manhattan shops, I found these 20 excellent bottles, all under $20. They come from eight different countries, and even more regions. Most of these are red, in deference to the season, when most people gravitate toward heartier dishes. But in winter I still eat foods that call for white wines, and I always like sparkling wines, so both are represented as well. | On a recent expedition through a handful of Manhattan shops, I found these 20 excellent bottles, all under $20. They come from eight different countries, and even more regions. Most of these are red, in deference to the season, when most people gravitate toward heartier dishes. But in winter I still eat foods that call for white wines, and I always like sparkling wines, so both are represented as well. |
| The $20 price is crucial. Budget-minded shoppers may recoil, believing they can find plenty of bottles under $10. That’s true, and most of those wines will be technically sound. They will also be boring, the scourge of mass-market wines today. | The $20 price is crucial. Budget-minded shoppers may recoil, believing they can find plenty of bottles under $10. That’s true, and most of those wines will be technically sound. They will also be boring, the scourge of mass-market wines today. |
| By contrast, most of these are from small producers who work traditionally and sometimes iconoclastically. Wines like these cost a little more, from $15 to $25, but for that price, the level of interest and pleasure in the wines increases exponentially. | By contrast, most of these are from small producers who work traditionally and sometimes iconoclastically. Wines like these cost a little more, from $15 to $25, but for that price, the level of interest and pleasure in the wines increases exponentially. |
| Among these selections are merlot and chardonnay, seemingly the most mundane of wines, but delicious when carefully and conscientiously produced. Alongside are rarities, made from grapes like vespolina, xinomavro, vernatsch and persan, which have long local histories but are largely unknown in the United States. Why not give them a try? | Among these selections are merlot and chardonnay, seemingly the most mundane of wines, but delicious when carefully and conscientiously produced. Alongside are rarities, made from grapes like vespolina, xinomavro, vernatsch and persan, which have long local histories but are largely unknown in the United States. Why not give them a try? |
| These 20 bottles were the top results from my own shopping. Invariably, different stores in other parts of the country will have entirely different inventories and selections. If you cannot find any of these bottles, ask a good local wine shop what their best values are for around $20, specifying any broad preferences you may have, like red or white. | These 20 bottles were the top results from my own shopping. Invariably, different stores in other parts of the country will have entirely different inventories and selections. If you cannot find any of these bottles, ask a good local wine shop what their best values are for around $20, specifying any broad preferences you may have, like red or white. |
| It’s possible that some merchants will simply try to unload bottles they cannot otherwise sell. The best stores will not want to saddle you with rejects. They will honor your request and give you what they think is best for the price. That’s how you get customers to return. | It’s possible that some merchants will simply try to unload bottles they cannot otherwise sell. The best stores will not want to saddle you with rejects. They will honor your request and give you what they think is best for the price. That’s how you get customers to return. |
| Here are the 20 bottles, in no particular order. | Here are the 20 bottles, in no particular order. |
| Domaine du Facteur Vouvray Extra Brut NV $19.99 | Domaine du Facteur Vouvray Extra Brut NV $19.99 |
| This sparkling Vouvray is foaming, voluminous and bone dry. While it tastes more like the grape than the place, with a true honeysuckle, herbal, chamomile flavor of chenin blanc, it is rich and satisfying enough for a cold and snowy day. (Zev Rovine Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.) | This sparkling Vouvray is foaming, voluminous and bone dry. While it tastes more like the grape than the place, with a true honeysuckle, herbal, chamomile flavor of chenin blanc, it is rich and satisfying enough for a cold and snowy day. (Zev Rovine Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.) |
| Meinklang Burgenland Blaufränkisch 2015 $18.99 | Meinklang Burgenland Blaufränkisch 2015 $18.99 |
| Meinklang is one of the more interesting and unusual Austrian estates. It farms biodynamically, as many good wineries do nowadays, but it strives for a true biodiversity, as is not always possible in monocultural areas like Burgundy. The results, in my experience, have been clear, pure wines like this bright blaufränkisch, with aromas of fresh, ripe dark fruits and a welcome touch of bitterness. (Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, Vt.) | Meinklang is one of the more interesting and unusual Austrian estates. It farms biodynamically, as many good wineries do nowadays, but it strives for a true biodiversity, as is not always possible in monocultural areas like Burgundy. The results, in my experience, have been clear, pure wines like this bright blaufränkisch, with aromas of fresh, ripe dark fruits and a welcome touch of bitterness. (Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, Vt.) |
| Château de Brézé Saumur Rouge Clos Mazurique 2016 $18.99 | Château de Brézé Saumur Rouge Clos Mazurique 2016 $18.99 |
| The cabernet franc wines of the Loire have been perennially great values, and this remains true even though wine writers have for years been desperately trying to give away the secret. Arnaud Lambert of Château de Brézé is among the leading vignerons raising the level of quality in the Saumur region. The lovely Clos Mazurique is rich, spicy, earthy and floral, characterized more by its acidity than its tannins. (Becky Wasserman & Co./Grand Cru Selections, New York) | The cabernet franc wines of the Loire have been perennially great values, and this remains true even though wine writers have for years been desperately trying to give away the secret. Arnaud Lambert of Château de Brézé is among the leading vignerons raising the level of quality in the Saumur region. The lovely Clos Mazurique is rich, spicy, earthy and floral, characterized more by its acidity than its tannins. (Becky Wasserman & Co./Grand Cru Selections, New York) |
| De Martino Chile Viejas Tinajas Cinsault 2012 $19.99 | De Martino Chile Viejas Tinajas Cinsault 2012 $19.99 |
| This wine, the first I have had from this producer, was a revelation: juicy, fresh and full of energy, with aromas of dark fruits, graphite and minerals. It was made from cinsault grapes grown in granitic soils. The grapes were fermented and aged in terra-cotta amphorae, a traditional method in the Chilean countryside, according to the importer. (Broadbent Selections, Sonoma, Calif.) | This wine, the first I have had from this producer, was a revelation: juicy, fresh and full of energy, with aromas of dark fruits, graphite and minerals. It was made from cinsault grapes grown in granitic soils. The grapes were fermented and aged in terra-cotta amphorae, a traditional method in the Chilean countryside, according to the importer. (Broadbent Selections, Sonoma, Calif.) |
| Lise & Bertrand Jousset Vin de France Éxileé Rosé Pétillant 2016 $16.99 | Lise & Bertrand Jousset Vin de France Éxileé Rosé Pétillant 2016 $16.99 |
| Another sparkling wine from the Loire, yet so different from the Vouvray. This beautiful pink pétillant naturel is made from gamay grapes, bottled before the initial fermentation was completed. The carbon dioxide that was trapped in the bottle gives the wine its gentle sparkle. It smells like fresh strawberries and earth, and tastes slightly steely, in a good way. (T. Edward Wines, New York) | Another sparkling wine from the Loire, yet so different from the Vouvray. This beautiful pink pétillant naturel is made from gamay grapes, bottled before the initial fermentation was completed. The carbon dioxide that was trapped in the bottle gives the wine its gentle sparkle. It smells like fresh strawberries and earth, and tastes slightly steely, in a good way. (T. Edward Wines, New York) |
| Matthiasson California Tendu Red 2016 $19.99 | Matthiasson California Tendu Red 2016 $19.99 |
| In the old days, this might have been called a jug wine, in the best sense of the phrase. Indeed, the Tendu is sold in 1-liter bottles — there’s added value. It’s so delicious and low in alcohol (just 11.7 percent) that you’ll want to gulp it down. It’s an Italian-style blend of barbera, montepulciano and aglianico, plus some unidentified others. It’s made without sulfur dioxide, a common stabilizer, yet I’ve never seen a flawed bottle. Try it with burgers, pizza and even Cantonese food. | In the old days, this might have been called a jug wine, in the best sense of the phrase. Indeed, the Tendu is sold in 1-liter bottles — there’s added value. It’s so delicious and low in alcohol (just 11.7 percent) that you’ll want to gulp it down. It’s an Italian-style blend of barbera, montepulciano and aglianico, plus some unidentified others. It’s made without sulfur dioxide, a common stabilizer, yet I’ve never seen a flawed bottle. Try it with burgers, pizza and even Cantonese food. |
| Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2013 $17.99 | Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2013 $17.99 |
| Cerasuolo di Vittoria is one of the great wines of Sicily, made in the Vittoria region in the southeastern part of the island. This refreshing bottle from Valle dell’Acate is a fantastic value, earthy and lightly tannic, with rippling acidity and aromas of red and dark fruit. The high notes come from the frappato grape, the baritone from nero d’Avola. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.) | Cerasuolo di Vittoria is one of the great wines of Sicily, made in the Vittoria region in the southeastern part of the island. This refreshing bottle from Valle dell’Acate is a fantastic value, earthy and lightly tannic, with rippling acidity and aromas of red and dark fruit. The high notes come from the frappato grape, the baritone from nero d’Avola. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.) |
| Knauss Württemberg Weisswein Trocken 2016 $18.99 | Knauss Württemberg Weisswein Trocken 2016 $18.99 |
| This bright, refreshing white comes from the Württemberg region, near Stuttgart in southwestern Germany. It’s a blend of kerner, Müller-Thurgau and riesling and is beautifully balanced, with lively flavors of apricot and citrus. While not particularly complex, it is thoroughly delicious. (Selection Massale, Oakland, Calif.) | This bright, refreshing white comes from the Württemberg region, near Stuttgart in southwestern Germany. It’s a blend of kerner, Müller-Thurgau and riesling and is beautifully balanced, with lively flavors of apricot and citrus. While not particularly complex, it is thoroughly delicious. (Selection Massale, Oakland, Calif.) |
| La Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Clos des Briords Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2016 $18.99 | La Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Clos des Briords Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2016 $18.99 |
| The Muscadets of La Pépière are wonderful values year in and year out. This one is naturally made from melon grapes grown in granitic soil. It’s rich and savory, with a spine of mineral and lemon flavors. While Muscadet is famously great with oysters, do not restrict yourself. It also goes well with other seafood and poultry dishes. Drink young or save for a decade. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) | The Muscadets of La Pépière are wonderful values year in and year out. This one is naturally made from melon grapes grown in granitic soil. It’s rich and savory, with a spine of mineral and lemon flavors. While Muscadet is famously great with oysters, do not restrict yourself. It also goes well with other seafood and poultry dishes. Drink young or save for a decade. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) |
| Domaine des Forges Savennières Le Moulin du Gué 2015 $19.99 | Domaine des Forges Savennières Le Moulin du Gué 2015 $19.99 |
| Another chenin blanc value from the Loire Valley: This Savennières, from sandy schist soils in the Anjou region, is richly textured, bright and succulent. Serve with richer seafood or poultry dishes. (V.O.S. Selections, New York) | Another chenin blanc value from the Loire Valley: This Savennières, from sandy schist soils in the Anjou region, is richly textured, bright and succulent. Serve with richer seafood or poultry dishes. (V.O.S. Selections, New York) |
| Foxglove Central Coast Chardonnay 2014 $16.99 | Foxglove Central Coast Chardonnay 2014 $16.99 |
| Foxglove is the value label from Varner, which makes excellent wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is rich, ample California chardonnay, unadulterated by oak and made without the softening influence of malolactic fermentation, which turns firm malic acid into creamy lactic acid. The chardonnay is juicy, lively and full-bodied, not complex or subtle — just a big, clean wine that feels good. | Foxglove is the value label from Varner, which makes excellent wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is rich, ample California chardonnay, unadulterated by oak and made without the softening influence of malolactic fermentation, which turns firm malic acid into creamy lactic acid. The chardonnay is juicy, lively and full-bodied, not complex or subtle — just a big, clean wine that feels good. |
| Shinn Estate North Fork of Long Island Red Table Wine NV $13.99 | Shinn Estate North Fork of Long Island Red Table Wine NV $13.99 |
| A nonvintage red? Why not, especially in an inexpensive wine like this one, where the aim is deliciousness and drinkability. It’s spicy, brambly and precise, made mostly of merlot and cabernet franc, as well as trace amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec. From the terrific Shinn Estate, which changed ownership last summer. With luck, that will be the extent of the changes. | A nonvintage red? Why not, especially in an inexpensive wine like this one, where the aim is deliciousness and drinkability. It’s spicy, brambly and precise, made mostly of merlot and cabernet franc, as well as trace amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec. From the terrific Shinn Estate, which changed ownership last summer. With luck, that will be the extent of the changes. |
| Broadside Paso Robles Margarita Vineyard Merlot 2014 $18.99 | Broadside Paso Robles Margarita Vineyard Merlot 2014 $18.99 |
| California merlot may never escape its besmirched reputation, courtesy of the 2004 movie “Sideways,” which memorably, and with good reason, dismissed it. While insipid or pretentious merlot abounds, this one, from the consistently good Broadside, is fresh and plummy, well balanced and lip-smacking, with a pleasant bitterness to invite the next sip. | California merlot may never escape its besmirched reputation, courtesy of the 2004 movie “Sideways,” which memorably, and with good reason, dismissed it. While insipid or pretentious merlot abounds, this one, from the consistently good Broadside, is fresh and plummy, well balanced and lip-smacking, with a pleasant bitterness to invite the next sip. |
| Château Milon St.-Émilion Cuvée Caprice 2016 $19.99 | Château Milon St.-Émilion Cuvée Caprice 2016 $19.99 |
| A rare bargain from the prestigious St.-Émilion region, this is merlot from a Bordeaux point of view. As with all good Bordeaux, this is a refreshing drink of wine. At first it’s a bit tight, but with time in the glass it becomes quite floral, with firm tannins, focused and linear. It’s not an aperitif wine; drink it with food. (Polaner Selections) | |
| Kokkinos Naoussa Xinomavro 2013 $18.99 | Kokkinos Naoussa Xinomavro 2013 $18.99 |
| Greek whites like assyrtiko from Santorini have gotten popular, but what of the reds? Here’s an excellent start, from the northern appellation of Naoussa, made of the xinomavro grape. It’s exuberant, bright, lively, rich and succulent. Serve with lamb, grilled or stewed. (Verity Wine Partners, New York) | Greek whites like assyrtiko from Santorini have gotten popular, but what of the reds? Here’s an excellent start, from the northern appellation of Naoussa, made of the xinomavro grape. It’s exuberant, bright, lively, rich and succulent. Serve with lamb, grilled or stewed. (Verity Wine Partners, New York) |
| Alvar de Dios Hernández Toro Tío Uco 2016 $15.99 | Alvar de Dios Hernández Toro Tío Uco 2016 $15.99 |
| This exceptional tempranillo from Toro, northwest of Madrid, is juicy and exuberant, powerful but tempered by good acidity. The ripe red fruit flavors have a tart little edge that makes you want to take another sip. (An Eric Solomon Selection/European Cellars, Charlotte, N.C.) | This exceptional tempranillo from Toro, northwest of Madrid, is juicy and exuberant, powerful but tempered by good acidity. The ripe red fruit flavors have a tart little edge that makes you want to take another sip. (An Eric Solomon Selection/European Cellars, Charlotte, N.C.) |
| Boniperti Colline Novaresi Favolalunga Vespolina 2015 $19.99 | Boniperti Colline Novaresi Favolalunga Vespolina 2015 $19.99 |
| Colline Novaresi is a small appellation in the northern part of the Piedmont region in northwestern Italy, near the better-known areas of Gattinara and Ghemme. Nebbiolo is grown there, but also a host of other related red grapes like vespolina. Favolalunga from Boniperti is made entirely of vespolina, gorgeously floral, spicy and fruity, and absolutely delicious. (Artisanal Cellars) | Colline Novaresi is a small appellation in the northern part of the Piedmont region in northwestern Italy, near the better-known areas of Gattinara and Ghemme. Nebbiolo is grown there, but also a host of other related red grapes like vespolina. Favolalunga from Boniperti is made entirely of vespolina, gorgeously floral, spicy and fruity, and absolutely delicious. (Artisanal Cellars) |
| Diego Losada La Senda Bierzo “1984” 2015 $19.99 | Diego Losada La Senda Bierzo “1984” 2015 $19.99 |
| In contrast to the more delicate sorts of wines made in Ribeira Sacra from the red mencía grape, the mencías from Bierzo, grown in slate and clay like this one from Diego Losada, tend to be more robust. It’s earthy, herbal and fruity, with a firm tannic spine, but also has a refreshing lift to it. Serve with roasted meats. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, Calif.) | In contrast to the more delicate sorts of wines made in Ribeira Sacra from the red mencía grape, the mencías from Bierzo, grown in slate and clay like this one from Diego Losada, tend to be more robust. It’s earthy, herbal and fruity, with a firm tannic spine, but also has a refreshing lift to it. Serve with roasted meats. (José Pastor Selections/Llaurador Wines, Fairfax, Calif.) |
| Franz Gojer Glögglhof Südtirol-Alto Adige Vernatsch Alte Reben 2016 $18.99 | Franz Gojer Glögglhof Südtirol-Alto Adige Vernatsch Alte Reben 2016 $18.99 |
| The Franz Gojer winery is also known as Glögglhof, which makes sense: You simply want to glug this red down. It is made from a grape called vernatsch in Tyrolean Italy, which is also known in Lombardy as schiava and in Germany as trollinger (a word derived from Tyrol). By whichever name, this wine is fresh, bright, floral and fruity, with refreshing, lively acidity. (Polaner Selections) | The Franz Gojer winery is also known as Glögglhof, which makes sense: You simply want to glug this red down. It is made from a grape called vernatsch in Tyrolean Italy, which is also known in Lombardy as schiava and in Germany as trollinger (a word derived from Tyrol). By whichever name, this wine is fresh, bright, floral and fruity, with refreshing, lively acidity. (Polaner Selections) |
| Domaine Giachino Isère Frères Giac 2016 $19.99 | Domaine Giachino Isère Frères Giac 2016 $19.99 |
| The brothers Giachino, Frédéric and David (Frères Giac, get it?), farm organically in Isère, near the Alps in Savoie in eastern France. This fresh, pure, earthy red is made from gamay, a fairly widespread grape, and persan, which almost disappeared from the regon before it began a small comeback. With the aromas of ripe red fruit and flowers, Frères Giac makes you want to sing lullabies. (Jeffrey Alpert Selection/Grand Cru Selections, New York) | The brothers Giachino, Frédéric and David (Frères Giac, get it?), farm organically in Isère, near the Alps in Savoie in eastern France. This fresh, pure, earthy red is made from gamay, a fairly widespread grape, and persan, which almost disappeared from the regon before it began a small comeback. With the aromas of ripe red fruit and flowers, Frères Giac makes you want to sing lullabies. (Jeffrey Alpert Selection/Grand Cru Selections, New York) |
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