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Joël Robuchon Is Ready to Resurrect His New York Restaurant Joël Robuchon Is Ready to Resurrect His New York Restaurant
(about 1 hour later)
The French chef Joël Robuchon is back in New York after an absence of more than 10 years. Next week, he will open L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, an updated version of the signature restaurant he ran for six years in the Four Seasons hotel in Midtown. The French chef Joël Robuchon is back in New York after an absence of five years. Next week, he will open L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, an updated version of the signature restaurant he ran for six years in the Four Seasons hotel in Midtown.
The rebooted restaurant, the 12th in a string of Ateliers across the globe, is on the edge of the meatpacking district, on 10th Avenue at 15th Street, a reflection of the shift that has moved the epicenter of Manhattan’s new-restaurant scene downtown.The rebooted restaurant, the 12th in a string of Ateliers across the globe, is on the edge of the meatpacking district, on 10th Avenue at 15th Street, a reflection of the shift that has moved the epicenter of Manhattan’s new-restaurant scene downtown.
“I have excellent memories of being in the Four Seasons hotel and the exceptional clientele,” Mr. Robuchon said in an interview Monday in the new place. “But the decision was not just up to me.” His partners were looking for younger customers, who are more likely to dine late and on weekends.“I have excellent memories of being in the Four Seasons hotel and the exceptional clientele,” Mr. Robuchon said in an interview Monday in the new place. “But the decision was not just up to me.” His partners were looking for younger customers, who are more likely to dine late and on weekends.
The novelty of the original restaurant, in Paris, was its counter-only seating, unusual for a dining room from a top Parisian chef. The new Atelier’s counter has 34 seats and a curved contour, unlike the rectilinear design of most Ateliers. “It’s more convivial, like the one in Tokyo,” Mr. Robuchon said. The new restaurant, like many other Ateliers, also has tables.The novelty of the original restaurant, in Paris, was its counter-only seating, unusual for a dining room from a top Parisian chef. The new Atelier’s counter has 34 seats and a curved contour, unlike the rectilinear design of most Ateliers. “It’s more convivial, like the one in Tokyo,” Mr. Robuchon said. The new restaurant, like many other Ateliers, also has tables.
The designer, Pierre-Yves Rochon, has replaced the pale wood of the uptown restaurant with glossy rosewood, with strong red and black accents. Huge windows lend light, drama and a more open look.The designer, Pierre-Yves Rochon, has replaced the pale wood of the uptown restaurant with glossy rosewood, with strong red and black accents. Huge windows lend light, drama and a more open look.
If the interior suggests other Ateliers, so does much of the menu, with small plates like steak tartare, carpaccio of artichokes with foie gras, and caviar with shellfish gelée and cauliflower cream. Beets with apple, avocado and green mustard sorbet is new for New York; there is also a vegetable tasting. Mr. Robuchon is full of praise for American and local New York ingredients.If the interior suggests other Ateliers, so does much of the menu, with small plates like steak tartare, carpaccio of artichokes with foie gras, and caviar with shellfish gelée and cauliflower cream. Beets with apple, avocado and green mustard sorbet is new for New York; there is also a vegetable tasting. Mr. Robuchon is full of praise for American and local New York ingredients.
“The vegetables here have become so much better,” he said. “The United States has moved further along than France when it comes to organics.”“The vegetables here have become so much better,” he said. “The United States has moved further along than France when it comes to organics.”
A bar and bistro-style restaurant, called Le Bar de Joël Robuchon, occupies the front portion of the space, with typical meatpacking district elements like brick walls and black industrial columns. A straightforward menu of sandwiches, rotisserie chicken and veal Milanese is served at banquettes, tables and a black granite bar. There are two visually striking private dining rooms.A bar and bistro-style restaurant, called Le Bar de Joël Robuchon, occupies the front portion of the space, with typical meatpacking district elements like brick walls and black industrial columns. A straightforward menu of sandwiches, rotisserie chicken and veal Milanese is served at banquettes, tables and a black granite bar. There are two visually striking private dining rooms.
The New York kitchen will be run by the executive chef, Christophe Bellanca; the bread-baker, Tetsuya Yamaguchi; and the executive pastry chef, Salvatore Martone. The restaurant has hired away Mario Wainer as maître d’hôtel, a position he held for decades at Le Cirque.The New York kitchen will be run by the executive chef, Christophe Bellanca; the bread-baker, Tetsuya Yamaguchi; and the executive pastry chef, Salvatore Martone. The restaurant has hired away Mario Wainer as maître d’hôtel, a position he held for decades at Le Cirque.
Mr. Robuchon has more on tap for New York City. An elaborate restaurant showcasing classic techniques in contemporary dishes is planned for a new tower at 100 East 53rd Street. It will be on the second floor; a more casual restaurant will occupy the ground level in that 15,000-square- foot complex. Construction is to start around the end of the year.Mr. Robuchon has more on tap for New York City. An elaborate restaurant showcasing classic techniques in contemporary dishes is planned for a new tower at 100 East 53rd Street. It will be on the second floor; a more casual restaurant will occupy the ground level in that 15,000-square- foot complex. Construction is to start around the end of the year.
Now 72, Mr. Robuchon announced his retirement at age 50 in 1995 but then opened his first counter restaurant in 2003. He is often on the road these days, and by contract must be at the New York restaurant for at least four weeks a year, but hinted that he might show up more often.Now 72, Mr. Robuchon announced his retirement at age 50 in 1995 but then opened his first counter restaurant in 2003. He is often on the road these days, and by contract must be at the New York restaurant for at least four weeks a year, but hinted that he might show up more often.
“I could move to New York,” he said. “I love it here.”“I could move to New York,” he said. “I love it here.”
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