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| Princess Diana inspires Off-White look in Paris | Princess Diana inspires Off-White look in Paris |
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| The most important outfit shown at Paris fashion week so far was not an intricate silk gown or a tastefully cut trouser suit. It was a pair of white cycling shorts and a double-breasted blazer worn by Naomi Campbell as she stood in front of a troupe of 36 models dressed in looks inspired by Diana, Princess of Wales. | The most important outfit shown at Paris fashion week so far was not an intricate silk gown or a tastefully cut trouser suit. It was a pair of white cycling shorts and a double-breasted blazer worn by Naomi Campbell as she stood in front of a troupe of 36 models dressed in looks inspired by Diana, Princess of Wales. |
| This tableau was the finale of Off-White’s spring/summer 2018 fashion show, held in the sumptuous 19th-century Salle Wagram theatre. Off-White is a youth-centric brand with a tendency towards irony – the straps on its most popular handbags look like police barriers – overseen by Virgil Abloh, Kanye West’s creative director. Diana was the inspiration for the collection, which sought to explore more complex territory than the princess myth of glamour and tiaras. | |
| Some of the looks were loosely inspired by the princess, such as the first model’s leather skirt and matching leather blouson, its most Diana-ish touch the white popped collar. Others were more direct: here was Diana dropping the kids off at school in double denim, or Diana in her dotty pink dress, or Diana on her way to the gym, as suggested by Campbell’s cycling shorts. | Some of the looks were loosely inspired by the princess, such as the first model’s leather skirt and matching leather blouson, its most Diana-ish touch the white popped collar. Others were more direct: here was Diana dropping the kids off at school in double denim, or Diana in her dotty pink dress, or Diana on her way to the gym, as suggested by Campbell’s cycling shorts. |
| There were glass slippers of a kind in high heels and boots covered in clear plastic created in collaboration with Jimmy Choo (the protective-layer look is a big trend this season). Five outfits riffed on Diana’s ballgowns: two bandeau dresses with huge hooped skirts, worn over T-shirts; three frilly tulle multilayered dressed – items that would have been unlikely to feature in Diana’s strategically ruffle-free wardrobe, at least not after the frou frou extravaganza of her wedding day. | |
| Models held clutch bags designed to look like the logos of celebrity magazines – Time and Life and People – a somewhat oblique reference that suggested an American, Abloh’s-eye view of Diana’s legacy. | Models held clutch bags designed to look like the logos of celebrity magazines – Time and Life and People – a somewhat oblique reference that suggested an American, Abloh’s-eye view of Diana’s legacy. |
| Just days before, Campbell had starred in a catwalk tribute to mark 20 years since the death of Gianni Versace, a good friend of Diana’s, at Milan fashion week. To millennials, both Gianni and Diana are symbols of an exotic pre-internet era that they are only now discovering on Instagram and Tumblr. | Just days before, Campbell had starred in a catwalk tribute to mark 20 years since the death of Gianni Versace, a good friend of Diana’s, at Milan fashion week. To millennials, both Gianni and Diana are symbols of an exotic pre-internet era that they are only now discovering on Instagram and Tumblr. |