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| Playing Dead for a Day in Gratitude for Being Spared | |
| (about 3 hours later) | |
| SANTA MARTA DE RIBARTEME, Spain — Inside a small church in this tiny Galician village, Pilar Domínguez Muñoz adjusted her dress, put on her sunglasses and stepped into her coffin. | SANTA MARTA DE RIBARTEME, Spain — Inside a small church in this tiny Galician village, Pilar Domínguez Muñoz adjusted her dress, put on her sunglasses and stepped into her coffin. |
| Her daughter, Uxía, watched anxiously as pallbearers hoisted her mother onto their shoulders. But Ms. Domínguez Muñoz seemed to rest peacefully as they paraded her through the streets to the sound of a brass band. | Her daughter, Uxía, watched anxiously as pallbearers hoisted her mother onto their shoulders. But Ms. Domínguez Muñoz seemed to rest peacefully as they paraded her through the streets to the sound of a brass band. |
| She was, after all, perfectly alive. So was her daughter. But then, that was the point. | She was, after all, perfectly alive. So was her daughter. But then, that was the point. |
| Ms. Domínguez Muñoz was among nine people who took part in the extraordinary funeral ritual, celebrated every July 29 in Santa Marta de Ribarteme, a village of a few hundred residents perched high in northwestern Spain. | Ms. Domínguez Muñoz was among nine people who took part in the extraordinary funeral ritual, celebrated every July 29 in Santa Marta de Ribarteme, a village of a few hundred residents perched high in northwestern Spain. |
| Morbid though it may seem, the festival is a celebration for those who in the previous year snatched life back from the jaws of death. It is performed on the feast day of the local parish’s most important saint, Martha, whose brother Lazarus was raised from the dead when Jesus visited their home in the Bible’s account. | Morbid though it may seem, the festival is a celebration for those who in the previous year snatched life back from the jaws of death. It is performed on the feast day of the local parish’s most important saint, Martha, whose brother Lazarus was raised from the dead when Jesus visited their home in the Bible’s account. |
| “I know some people think we’re crazy, because even my mother told me so when I decided to take part a few years ago,” said Karina Domínguez, who had previously staged her own funeral and was a pallbearer this year. | “I know some people think we’re crazy, because even my mother told me so when I decided to take part a few years ago,” said Karina Domínguez, who had previously staged her own funeral and was a pallbearer this year. |
| Some devotees enact their own death after surviving a serious accident or illness, while others do so to thank the saint for saving a relative. | Some devotees enact their own death after surviving a serious accident or illness, while others do so to thank the saint for saving a relative. |
| Ms. Domínguez Muñoz was taking part for the second consecutive year because she wanted to show gratitude for her daughter’s improved health. Uxía suffers from osteogenesis imperfecta, or brittle bone disease. | Ms. Domínguez Muñoz was taking part for the second consecutive year because she wanted to show gratitude for her daughter’s improved health. Uxía suffers from osteogenesis imperfecta, or brittle bone disease. |
| “Last year, I was in my coffin and she was in her wheelchair, with both ankles broken,” Ms. Domínguez Muñoz said. “My daughter is walking today thanks to Santa Marta.” | “Last year, I was in my coffin and she was in her wheelchair, with both ankles broken,” Ms. Domínguez Muñoz said. “My daughter is walking today thanks to Santa Marta.” |
| The funeral march, which dates to medieval times, is an example of both pagan and religious fervor in Galicia, where legends abound about the healing powers of local witches, or meigas. | The funeral march, which dates to medieval times, is an example of both pagan and religious fervor in Galicia, where legends abound about the healing powers of local witches, or meigas. |
| Though the festival in this village is unusual, healing — both physical and spiritual — is at the heart of some of the world’s main Catholic pilgrimages, like Lourdes in France and Fatima in Portugal. | Though the festival in this village is unusual, healing — both physical and spiritual — is at the heart of some of the world’s main Catholic pilgrimages, like Lourdes in France and Fatima in Portugal. |
| Xosé Manuel Rodríguez Méndez, a town hall official, said the feast observed “the victory of life over death.” The origins of the feast are unclear, but he suggested that it was also linked to the poverty and isolation of villages around his region. | Xosé Manuel Rodríguez Méndez, a town hall official, said the feast observed “the victory of life over death.” The origins of the feast are unclear, but he suggested that it was also linked to the poverty and isolation of villages around his region. |
| “This was a feudal society well into the 20th century, where people relied on their faith and local healers because they had no access to modern medicine,” he said. | “This was a feudal society well into the 20th century, where people relied on their faith and local healers because they had no access to modern medicine,” he said. |
| The pilgrimage has drawn larger crowds in recent years, to the point that the local authorities said they would lobby to add the event to the long list of official Spanish feasts that also receive public subsidies for tourism activities. | The pilgrimage has drawn larger crowds in recent years, to the point that the local authorities said they would lobby to add the event to the long list of official Spanish feasts that also receive public subsidies for tourism activities. |
| This year, the village church charged for the first time for renting coffins, 100 euros for each coffin, which the priest, the Rev. Alfonso Besada, also justified as a way to weed out flaky participants who join “just for the folklore” rather than because of any religious faith. | This year, the village church charged for the first time for renting coffins, 100 euros for each coffin, which the priest, the Rev. Alfonso Besada, also justified as a way to weed out flaky participants who join “just for the folklore” rather than because of any religious faith. |
| To gain salvation, “doing this on its own isn’t enough, you also of course need to go to Mass and confession,” he said. | To gain salvation, “doing this on its own isn’t enough, you also of course need to go to Mass and confession,” he said. |
| Ms. Domínguez Muñoz, however, was upset to have to pay for her funeral. “I’m here for Santa Marta and certainly not because of any priest,” she said. | Ms. Domínguez Muñoz, however, was upset to have to pay for her funeral. “I’m here for Santa Marta and certainly not because of any priest,” she said. |
| A few hours before the coffin procession, devotees had already gathered around the church, for an outdoor Mass, as well as to line up to touch the saint’s statue. | A few hours before the coffin procession, devotees had already gathered around the church, for an outdoor Mass, as well as to line up to touch the saint’s statue. |
| Many rubbed a white kerchief on Martha’s feet, before touching their own face with it. A few then started the procession on their knees, while others walked holding a long burning candle. | Many rubbed a white kerchief on Martha’s feet, before touching their own face with it. A few then started the procession on their knees, while others walked holding a long burning candle. |
| Marching right behind the coffins, a small chorus of faithful repeatedly sang a hymn glorifying Martha. | Marching right behind the coffins, a small chorus of faithful repeatedly sang a hymn glorifying Martha. |
| Some felt uneasy about watching living corpses. | Some felt uneasy about watching living corpses. |
| “I love everything about this pilgrimage, but not these coffins,” said Josefa Díaz Domínguez, a pensioner. “I’m sure God doesn’t ask anybody to go this far.” | “I love everything about this pilgrimage, but not these coffins,” said Josefa Díaz Domínguez, a pensioner. “I’m sure God doesn’t ask anybody to go this far.” |
| Bernardo Alonso, a graphic designer, said that he was impressed by the procession, but too scared to ever step into a coffin himself. “We all live with our own individual fears, but I think you must feel completely desperate to lie down in a casket,” he said. | Bernardo Alonso, a graphic designer, said that he was impressed by the procession, but too scared to ever step into a coffin himself. “We all live with our own individual fears, but I think you must feel completely desperate to lie down in a casket,” he said. |
| In fact, 11 people were scheduled to join this year’s procession, but two coffins stayed behind in the church, including a small white coffin that had been saved for a child. | In fact, 11 people were scheduled to join this year’s procession, but two coffins stayed behind in the church, including a small white coffin that had been saved for a child. |
| Marta Domínguez, the sacristan of the church, said no-shows were rare, and were due to either a last-minute panic attack or a serious physical problem. Last year, she said, “somebody had to cancel because of their chemotherapy.” | Marta Domínguez, the sacristan of the church, said no-shows were rare, and were due to either a last-minute panic attack or a serious physical problem. Last year, she said, “somebody had to cancel because of their chemotherapy.” |
| By the time the procession began, a drizzly morning had turned into a hot summer noon. Lying in their coffins, some devotees used an umbrella to protect their faces from the beating sun while others cooled themselves down with a hand or small electric fan. | By the time the procession began, a drizzly morning had turned into a hot summer noon. Lying in their coffins, some devotees used an umbrella to protect their faces from the beating sun while others cooled themselves down with a hand or small electric fan. |
| One of the living dead wore a white Panama hat. Ms. Domínguez Muñoz kept one arm dangling from her coffin, to clutch the hand of one of her pallbearers. | One of the living dead wore a white Panama hat. Ms. Domínguez Muñoz kept one arm dangling from her coffin, to clutch the hand of one of her pallbearers. |
| After the coffins returned to the church, their occupants stepped out, shook their heavy limbs and wiped away the sweat and tears. Marcos Rodríguez, 38, said he felt “huge relief” as he embraced his 6-year-old son, Nicolás, who looked both happy and confused about why his father kept sobbing. | After the coffins returned to the church, their occupants stepped out, shook their heavy limbs and wiped away the sweat and tears. Marcos Rodríguez, 38, said he felt “huge relief” as he embraced his 6-year-old son, Nicolás, who looked both happy and confused about why his father kept sobbing. |
| Last July 29, Nicolás successfully underwent brain surgery. “I promised Santa Marta I would thank her if she saved my son,” Mr. Rodríguez said. | Last July 29, Nicolás successfully underwent brain surgery. “I promised Santa Marta I would thank her if she saved my son,” Mr. Rodríguez said. |
| “I’ve been crying a lot today, remembering what happened to Nicolás, but if I have ever to face such a terrible situation again, I will of course do this once more.” | “I’ve been crying a lot today, remembering what happened to Nicolás, but if I have ever to face such a terrible situation again, I will of course do this once more.” |