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Isolated Armenia leans on Iran | Isolated Armenia leans on Iran |
(about 11 hours later) | |
By Robin Forestier BBC News, Yerevan | By Robin Forestier BBC News, Yerevan |
Iran does not have too many friends these days, but in a far corner of the Caucasus, on the edge of Europe, it is forming a special relationship. | Iran does not have too many friends these days, but in a far corner of the Caucasus, on the edge of Europe, it is forming a special relationship. |
Noy Brandy's wine-tasting sessions are popular with Iranian touristsDeep in the cellar of the Noy Brandy factory in Yerevan, Armenia, there is a pungent, but not unpleasant smell of ageing, fortified wine. | Noy Brandy's wine-tasting sessions are popular with Iranian touristsDeep in the cellar of the Noy Brandy factory in Yerevan, Armenia, there is a pungent, but not unpleasant smell of ageing, fortified wine. |
On an upturned wooden cask sit a dozen glasses, and a bottle of 1944 sherry. The company's wine-tasting sessions are popular with tourists and most of them, according to tour guide Anna, come from Iran. | On an upturned wooden cask sit a dozen glasses, and a bottle of 1944 sherry. The company's wine-tasting sessions are popular with tourists and most of them, according to tour guide Anna, come from Iran. |
"Ten metres underground, they think Allah is out of range," she smiles. "They don't want to taste the wine, they want to drink it." | "Ten metres underground, they think Allah is out of range," she smiles. "They don't want to taste the wine, they want to drink it." |
Across town, Omid Mojahed is one such Iranian looking for more than just a taste of Armenia. He is a 28-year-old student and an entrepreneur at heart. | Across town, Omid Mojahed is one such Iranian looking for more than just a taste of Armenia. He is a 28-year-old student and an entrepreneur at heart. |
We attach great importance to our relations with Iran. One can choose one's friends but not one's neighbours Armen MovsisyanArmenian minister | We attach great importance to our relations with Iran. One can choose one's friends but not one's neighbours Armen MovsisyanArmenian minister |
He spends most of his time away from his books, working on his businesses, which include a travel agency working exclusively in the Iranian market. | He spends most of his time away from his books, working on his businesses, which include a travel agency working exclusively in the Iranian market. |
"In summer I think that 90% of tourists are Iranian. Armenia is so close by and has attractive things - cafes and nightclubs, and beautiful Lake Sevan." | "In summer I think that 90% of tourists are Iranian. Armenia is so close by and has attractive things - cafes and nightclubs, and beautiful Lake Sevan." |
Omid has also just opened a Persian restaurant, catering for locals as well as Iranian expats, keen for some home cuisine. | Omid has also just opened a Persian restaurant, catering for locals as well as Iranian expats, keen for some home cuisine. |
Gathered at the bar around a smoking pipe, a group of Iranian students are relaxing after their exams. | Gathered at the bar around a smoking pipe, a group of Iranian students are relaxing after their exams. |
Twenty-year-old Mehdez explains that Armenia is popular with thousands of young people who cannot get a place in Iran's over-subscribed higher education system. | Twenty-year-old Mehdez explains that Armenia is popular with thousands of young people who cannot get a place in Iran's over-subscribed higher education system. |
"I chose to study in Yerevan because it's an easier situation. Here we have more freedom," she says. | "I chose to study in Yerevan because it's an easier situation. Here we have more freedom," she says. |
"But of course anything that we do here, we can do in Iran - just not in public." | "But of course anything that we do here, we can do in Iran - just not in public." |
Geographic isolation | Geographic isolation |
Part of that freedom includes an increasingly liberalised economy, and that makes Armenia attractive to foreign investment. | Part of that freedom includes an increasingly liberalised economy, and that makes Armenia attractive to foreign investment. |
The Armenian capital is hardly an international economic powerhouse, but there are signs that Iranian investors sense an opportunity. | The Armenian capital is hardly an international economic powerhouse, but there are signs that Iranian investors sense an opportunity. |
On one street, many of the stores are Iranian-run. One of them is owned by Muhammad Rahimi. | On one street, many of the stores are Iranian-run. One of them is owned by Muhammad Rahimi. |
Muhammad Rahimi benefits from Armenia's dependence on Iran | Muhammad Rahimi benefits from Armenia's dependence on Iran |
He started trading household goods 10 years ago. Business, he says, gets better and better. Practically every item he sells - from pots and pans to air-fresheners - has been imported from Iran. | |
Like many of his compatriots, Muhammad benefits from Armenia's geographical isolation. | Like many of his compatriots, Muhammad benefits from Armenia's geographical isolation. |
War with Azerbaijan over Nagorno-Karabakh in the 1990s led to the closure of its borders with Azerbaijan and an unsympathetic Turkey. | War with Azerbaijan over Nagorno-Karabakh in the 1990s led to the closure of its borders with Azerbaijan and an unsympathetic Turkey. |
That leaves landlocked Armenia looking towards Georgia to the north, and Iran to the south. | That leaves landlocked Armenia looking towards Georgia to the north, and Iran to the south. |
"Georgia, economically, is worse than Armenia," says Alexander Iskandarian, director of the Caucasus Media Institute. | "Georgia, economically, is worse than Armenia," says Alexander Iskandarian, director of the Caucasus Media Institute. |
"But Iran has a population of 70 million and it has oil and gas. It's rich by regional standards, so you should have normal relations with them. It's dangerous not to do so." | "But Iran has a population of 70 million and it has oil and gas. It's rich by regional standards, so you should have normal relations with them. It's dangerous not to do so." |
Yet trade turnover between the two countries remains modest, at just $200m (£100m) a year, according to the economic department at the Iranian embassy. | Yet trade turnover between the two countries remains modest, at just $200m (£100m) a year, according to the economic department at the Iranian embassy. |
US disapproval | US disapproval |
That has not stopped the United States from expressing concern about Armenia's ties with its neighbour. Those ties include the new Iran-Armenia gas pipeline, frequent bilateral talks and state visits, not to mention a sizeable Armenian minority in northern Iran. | That has not stopped the United States from expressing concern about Armenia's ties with its neighbour. Those ties include the new Iran-Armenia gas pipeline, frequent bilateral talks and state visits, not to mention a sizeable Armenian minority in northern Iran. |
In this year's Country Reports on Terrorism, the US state department said warming relations between the two countries made Armenia "reluctant to criticise publicly objectionable Iranian conduct". | In this year's Country Reports on Terrorism, the US state department said warming relations between the two countries made Armenia "reluctant to criticise publicly objectionable Iranian conduct". |
The little country courts the Americans, Europeans and Russians. It is a difficult balancing act to follow. | The little country courts the Americans, Europeans and Russians. It is a difficult balancing act to follow. |
Iranian students say they enjoy more freedom in Armenia | Iranian students say they enjoy more freedom in Armenia |
But Armenia's unique relationship with the regional power - Iran - is one it cannot afford to abandon. | But Armenia's unique relationship with the regional power - Iran - is one it cannot afford to abandon. |
Moreover, the two countries are united by a shared sense of isolation from the rest of the world. | Moreover, the two countries are united by a shared sense of isolation from the rest of the world. |
"Let's not forget that Armenia is in a virtual blockade. We attach great importance to our relations with Iran. One can choose one's friends but not one's neighbours," says Armen Movsisyan, Armenia's minister of energy. | "Let's not forget that Armenia is in a virtual blockade. We attach great importance to our relations with Iran. One can choose one's friends but not one's neighbours," says Armen Movsisyan, Armenia's minister of energy. |
For those Iranians who have chosen to make a home in Armenia, geopolitics may not be foremost in their minds, but they are equally as pragmatic as the politicians. | For those Iranians who have chosen to make a home in Armenia, geopolitics may not be foremost in their minds, but they are equally as pragmatic as the politicians. |
"I'm no expert in international relations. All I know is we always had good relations with Armenia and that's why I like working here," says the trader Muhammad Rahimi. | "I'm no expert in international relations. All I know is we always had good relations with Armenia and that's why I like working here," says the trader Muhammad Rahimi. |
Back in his restaurant, Omid Mojahed has no plans to leave while the going is good. | Back in his restaurant, Omid Mojahed has no plans to leave while the going is good. |
"Everything will be okay for me here, that's why I prefer to stay," he says. | "Everything will be okay for me here, that's why I prefer to stay," he says. |
"I like Armenian people, and it's difficult for me to want to leave my friends. When you come to Yerevan for a month, you will stay in Yerevan forever!" | "I like Armenian people, and it's difficult for me to want to leave my friends. When you come to Yerevan for a month, you will stay in Yerevan forever!" |
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