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A long wait for a decent life A long wait for a decent life
(20 minutes later)
By John Humphrys Today Programme Security has improved dramatically in Basra in recent monthsWe still have more than 4,000 British soldiers in Iraq but the Defence Secretary Des Browne claims that Basra is now a city transformed. We went to find out if that is true.By John Humphrys Today Programme Security has improved dramatically in Basra in recent monthsWe still have more than 4,000 British soldiers in Iraq but the Defence Secretary Des Browne claims that Basra is now a city transformed. We went to find out if that is true.
It is a much safer place now that the militias have more or less been driven out. But it has not been transformed in a way that makes it a decent place to live.It is a much safer place now that the militias have more or less been driven out. But it has not been transformed in a way that makes it a decent place to live.
The reconstruction that was promised when Saddam was overthrown has not happened and that does not bode well for the future.The reconstruction that was promised when Saddam was overthrown has not happened and that does not bode well for the future.
The madness that is IraqThe madness that is Iraq
Basra airport is seriously weird. Its runway is longer than Heathrow's and its concrete is so thick it can land the world's biggest aircraft. IT has a terminal to match. Basra airport is seriously weird. Its runway is longer than Heathrow's and its concrete is so thick it can land the world's biggest aircraft. It has a terminal to match.
It looks like a real international airport - exactly what southern Iraq needs if it's to develop economically - but it's not. It's all a bit of an illusion.It looks like a real international airport - exactly what southern Iraq needs if it's to develop economically - but it's not. It's all a bit of an illusion.
John Humphrys returned to Basra to investigate the effects of the improved security situationIn pictures I was given a tour of the place by the RAF's senior officer here Group Captain Dean Andrew.John Humphrys returned to Basra to investigate the effects of the improved security situationIn pictures I was given a tour of the place by the RAF's senior officer here Group Captain Dean Andrew.
It was surreal - a perfect illustration of the madness that is Iraq.It was surreal - a perfect illustration of the madness that is Iraq.
Before the airport can be accredited internationally, security has to be improved.Before the airport can be accredited internationally, security has to be improved.
There isn't any at the moment. And the airport manager likes it that way.There isn't any at the moment. And the airport manager likes it that way.
He prefers potted plants to ugly security screens. They'd spoil the look of the place.He prefers potted plants to ugly security screens. They'd spoil the look of the place.
So this world class airport, in all its air conditioned, pristine splendour sits on the edge of a teeming, filthy city where raw sewage runs down the streets and seems to mock the bureaucrats and businessmen who promise reconstruction.So this world class airport, in all its air conditioned, pristine splendour sits on the edge of a teeming, filthy city where raw sewage runs down the streets and seems to mock the bureaucrats and businessmen who promise reconstruction.
Bloody historyBloody history
It really is a godforsaken place - betrayed by its rulers. Saddam hated the Shias who live here and repressed them for decades.It really is a godforsaken place - betrayed by its rulers. Saddam hated the Shias who live here and repressed them for decades.
Basra was on the front line of a vicious war against Iran that lasted for eight years. Then came the invasion of Kuwait and the first Gulf War broke out.Basra was on the front line of a vicious war against Iran that lasted for eight years. Then came the invasion of Kuwait and the first Gulf War broke out.
When it ended, the local people rose against Saddam and were once again betrayed by broken promises of support. Years of vicious repression by Saddam followed.When it ended, the local people rose against Saddam and were once again betrayed by broken promises of support. Years of vicious repression by Saddam followed.
That came to an end with the invasion of 2003 and again they were let down.That came to an end with the invasion of 2003 and again they were let down.
It's more than five years since the war ended. The people of Basra are beginning to lose their patience. Fanatical militias were allowed to terrorise them.It's more than five years since the war ended. The people of Basra are beginning to lose their patience. Fanatical militias were allowed to terrorise them.
And now they too have been driven out.And now they too have been driven out.
So you can understand why the locals feel the promises of reconstruction and a new prosperity cannot be trusted.So you can understand why the locals feel the promises of reconstruction and a new prosperity cannot be trusted.
They're not asking for much: clean water and a decent electricity supply, which is essential when summer temperatures top 120 degrees.They're not asking for much: clean water and a decent electricity supply, which is essential when summer temperatures top 120 degrees.
Reconstruction promisesReconstruction promises
One state employee, a man better off than most as he works for the water company, told me that life was better under Saddam.One state employee, a man better off than most as he works for the water company, told me that life was better under Saddam.
But Saddam has gone and there's a new government in Baghdad.But Saddam has gone and there's a new government in Baghdad.
It is not popular down here. Governor Waili runs Basra and the province around.It is not popular down here. Governor Waili runs Basra and the province around.
Basra has waited a long time for peace and prosperity"There are mistakes, there is exploitation and there is certainly a great deal of inefficiency.Basra has waited a long time for peace and prosperity"There are mistakes, there is exploitation and there is certainly a great deal of inefficiency.
"The ministry of oil is still not able to export a much bigger amount of oil to the world."The ministry of oil is still not able to export a much bigger amount of oil to the world.
"I think if Basra were to become a region it could become better than Kuwait," he says."I think if Basra were to become a region it could become better than Kuwait," he says.
Kuwait City is Basra's neighbour, barely three hours by road but light years in terms of prosperity.Kuwait City is Basra's neighbour, barely three hours by road but light years in terms of prosperity.
Not like New YorkNot like New York
Of course Iraq has more oil and in its time it's seen great wealth.Of course Iraq has more oil and in its time it's seen great wealth.
The British consul general Nigel Hayward believes the good days can return. But he has to be optimistic. That's part of his job.The British consul general Nigel Hayward believes the good days can return. But he has to be optimistic. That's part of his job.
"This place could be far beyond Kuwait. The potential here is massive," he says."This place could be far beyond Kuwait. The potential here is massive," he says.
But when will it come? The people of Basra have waited a long time for a decent life.But when will it come? The people of Basra have waited a long time for a decent life.
Mahmoud al Bachari is a journalist in this city. I spoke to him when I was here two years ago. He's had enough of the humiliation of life in a city where the water that comes out of your taps is so filthy you can't even wash your hands in it.Mahmoud al Bachari is a journalist in this city. I spoke to him when I was here two years ago. He's had enough of the humiliation of life in a city where the water that comes out of your taps is so filthy you can't even wash your hands in it.
"Our money goes to water, generators. Half our salaries go to the health side. We are waiting for a miracle."Our money goes to water, generators. Half our salaries go to the health side. We are waiting for a miracle.
"What can I say? Your country run my city so I must ask your country - I want electricity. We haven't got the ability to control our city," he says."What can I say? Your country run my city so I must ask your country - I want electricity. We haven't got the ability to control our city," he says.
The best sand in the GulfThe best sand in the Gulf
One of the more bizarre conversations I've had in the past few days was with a couple of businessmen who boasted about their sand.One of the more bizarre conversations I've had in the past few days was with a couple of businessmen who boasted about their sand.
The best sand in the Gulf they said - with real pride.The best sand in the Gulf they said - with real pride.
To a visitor like me, struggling to cope when the searing winds from the desert blast you with the stuff, it was surreal.To a visitor like me, struggling to cope when the searing winds from the desert blast you with the stuff, it was surreal.
In the middle of a sandstorm Basra is hellish. Is it too cynical to feel that the promises of reconstruction, creating a new Kuwait of air conditioned bridges, is also surreal?In the middle of a sandstorm Basra is hellish. Is it too cynical to feel that the promises of reconstruction, creating a new Kuwait of air conditioned bridges, is also surreal?
Perhaps. It's more than five years since the war ended. The people of Basra are beginning to lose their patience.Perhaps. It's more than five years since the war ended. The people of Basra are beginning to lose their patience.