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In a Working-Class Stronghold, a Push for Scotland ‘to Stand on Its Own’ In a Working-Class Stronghold, a Push for Scotland ‘to Stand on Its Own’
(about 1 hour later)
PAISLEY, Scotland — Between a palatial Baptist church, Europe’s biggest, and a 12th-century abbey, there are five thrift stores, four pawnbrokers and a dozen boarded-up shop fronts.PAISLEY, Scotland — Between a palatial Baptist church, Europe’s biggest, and a 12th-century abbey, there are five thrift stores, four pawnbrokers and a dozen boarded-up shop fronts.
The McDonald’s is still open, but it just announced that it, too, is closing. In the middle distance: a 19th-century smokestack from which smoke never rises.The McDonald’s is still open, but it just announced that it, too, is closing. In the middle distance: a 19th-century smokestack from which smoke never rises.
The main street of Paisley, Scotland, looks like that of any struggling, postindustrial town just south of the border with England. But while English working-class cities like Sunderland and Stoke-on-Trent voted to leave the European Union, this Scottish town, best known for giving the teardrop pattern its name, voted to stay in the bloc — and to leave the United Kingdom.The main street of Paisley, Scotland, looks like that of any struggling, postindustrial town just south of the border with England. But while English working-class cities like Sunderland and Stoke-on-Trent voted to leave the European Union, this Scottish town, best known for giving the teardrop pattern its name, voted to stay in the bloc — and to leave the United Kingdom.
The bid for Scottish independence failed three years ago despite support from working-class communities like Paisley. But this week, Scotland’s leader, Nicola Sturgeon, called for a new referendum. And after Britain’s decision to leave the European Union — opposed by 62 percent of Scots — many here seem more determined than ever to end the 310-year-old union with England.The bid for Scottish independence failed three years ago despite support from working-class communities like Paisley. But this week, Scotland’s leader, Nicola Sturgeon, called for a new referendum. And after Britain’s decision to leave the European Union — opposed by 62 percent of Scots — many here seem more determined than ever to end the 310-year-old union with England.
“We don’t want to be ruled by another country anymore, we don’t want to be pulled out of Europe,” said George McGrattan, 83, a retired factory worker. “It’s time for Scotland to stand on its own two feet.”“We don’t want to be ruled by another country anymore, we don’t want to be pulled out of Europe,” said George McGrattan, 83, a retired factory worker. “It’s time for Scotland to stand on its own two feet.”
The language of identity and nation resonates here as much as in the rest of working-class Britain, but the conversation is entirely different.The language of identity and nation resonates here as much as in the rest of working-class Britain, but the conversation is entirely different.
Where England has veered right and English nationalism tends to be of the nostalgic kind, laced with anti-immigrant rhetoric, Scotland has veered left and embraced a civic-style nationalism, welcoming anyone who wants to live and work in the country.Where England has veered right and English nationalism tends to be of the nostalgic kind, laced with anti-immigrant rhetoric, Scotland has veered left and embraced a civic-style nationalism, welcoming anyone who wants to live and work in the country.
There is enough immigration in Paisley to support a Polish section in the public library and at least one Polish grocery store. The manager, Marcin Sutkowski, plans to vote for Scottish independence — not least because he fears for his right to stay after Britain has left the European Union. “We are scared of Brexit,” he said, referring to the withdrawal. “Scottish people respect us.”There is enough immigration in Paisley to support a Polish section in the public library and at least one Polish grocery store. The manager, Marcin Sutkowski, plans to vote for Scottish independence — not least because he fears for his right to stay after Britain has left the European Union. “We are scared of Brexit,” he said, referring to the withdrawal. “Scottish people respect us.”
Mr. Sutkowski, 28, talked about Polish immigrants in England and how the mood had changed since the vote to leave the European Union. Racist slurs have become more common. Poles now often find themselves accused of stealing jobs and benefits.Mr. Sutkowski, 28, talked about Polish immigrants in England and how the mood had changed since the vote to leave the European Union. Racist slurs have become more common. Poles now often find themselves accused of stealing jobs and benefits.
At a local pub, a group of middle-aged Paisley “buddies,” as residents call themselves, placed the blame for the lack of decent work and strained public services not on immigrants but on “Westminster” — shorthand for the unpopular Conservative government in London — and spent the next half-hour discussing currency options for an independent Scotland.At a local pub, a group of middle-aged Paisley “buddies,” as residents call themselves, placed the blame for the lack of decent work and strained public services not on immigrants but on “Westminster” — shorthand for the unpopular Conservative government in London — and spent the next half-hour discussing currency options for an independent Scotland.
“The euro is hopeless — just look at Greece,” one man scoffed.“The euro is hopeless — just look at Greece,” one man scoffed.
“Aye, but we can’t keep the pound if England is outside of Europe, can we?” his friend replied.“Aye, but we can’t keep the pound if England is outside of Europe, can we?” his friend replied.
“Scotland needs its own money,” a third concluded, prompting more earnest chat about who should be featured on the notes. (William Wallace, Scotland’s most celebrated freedom fighter, who was born just outside Paisley and hanged, drawn and quartered by King Edward I of England in 1305, is a clear favorite; followed by Mary Stuart, beheaded by Queen Elizabeth three centuries later.)“Scotland needs its own money,” a third concluded, prompting more earnest chat about who should be featured on the notes. (William Wallace, Scotland’s most celebrated freedom fighter, who was born just outside Paisley and hanged, drawn and quartered by King Edward I of England in 1305, is a clear favorite; followed by Mary Stuart, beheaded by Queen Elizabeth three centuries later.)
On the second floor of Paisley Museum, Dan Coughlan, the curator for textiles, is more skeptical about secession. Leafing through an 18th-century pattern book, Mr. Coughlan told the story of how Paisley had benefited from the 1707 union with England, which gave its weavers and cotton mills access to foreign markets, ideas and technology and made it one of the most productive towns in the British Empire.On the second floor of Paisley Museum, Dan Coughlan, the curator for textiles, is more skeptical about secession. Leafing through an 18th-century pattern book, Mr. Coughlan told the story of how Paisley had benefited from the 1707 union with England, which gave its weavers and cotton mills access to foreign markets, ideas and technology and made it one of the most productive towns in the British Empire.
“Paisley was at the frontier of globalization before the term ‘globalization’ was coined,” Mr. Coughlan said. He backed independence in 2014. But now that Britain is leaving the European Union, he is not so sure.“Paisley was at the frontier of globalization before the term ‘globalization’ was coined,” Mr. Coughlan said. He backed independence in 2014. But now that Britain is leaving the European Union, he is not so sure.
“Who knows whether the European Union will still be there in a few years’ time?” he said. “Scotland could be on its own, outside the U.K. and Europe.”“Who knows whether the European Union will still be there in a few years’ time?” he said. “Scotland could be on its own, outside the U.K. and Europe.”
Well aware of such fears, Prime Minister Theresa May’s Conservative government has already indicated that it plans to withhold approval for a legally binding secession vote in Scotland until after Britain has actually left the European Union. Well aware of such fears, Prime Minister Theresa May reiterated on Thursday her intention to withhold approval for a legally binding secession vote in Scotland until after Britain has left the European Union.
“At this point, all our energies should be focused on our negotiations with the European Union about our future relationship,” Mrs. May said. “To be talking about an independence referendum will make it more difficult for us to be able to get the right deal for Scotland, and the right deal for the U.K.”
This week, there was little sign that such maneuvering would subdue the pro-independence buzz. Within minutes of Ms. Sturgeon’s call for a new vote, nationalists were putting up banners in Scotland’s blue-and-white national colors.This week, there was little sign that such maneuvering would subdue the pro-independence buzz. Within minutes of Ms. Sturgeon’s call for a new vote, nationalists were putting up banners in Scotland’s blue-and-white national colors.
Mrs. May is not the first British leader to be alarmed by happenings north of the English border. A 19th-century prime minister, Benjamin Disraeli, once wrote in a novel, “Keep your eye on Paisley.” One of his characters, a fictional cotton mill owner, fretted about workers starting a revolution.Mrs. May is not the first British leader to be alarmed by happenings north of the English border. A 19th-century prime minister, Benjamin Disraeli, once wrote in a novel, “Keep your eye on Paisley.” One of his characters, a fictional cotton mill owner, fretted about workers starting a revolution.
Rebellion weaves through Paisley’s history like a red thread, beginning with Wallace.Rebellion weaves through Paisley’s history like a red thread, beginning with Wallace.
The radical weavers that Disraeli warned about are still celebrated every July in the Sma’ Shot festival, where residents pound a drum and burn an effigy of a factory owner (last year’s bore a striking resemblance to Nigel Farage, then leader of the pro-Brexit, anti-immigrant U.K. Independence Party, which has failed to win a single seat in Scotland).The radical weavers that Disraeli warned about are still celebrated every July in the Sma’ Shot festival, where residents pound a drum and burn an effigy of a factory owner (last year’s bore a striking resemblance to Nigel Farage, then leader of the pro-Brexit, anti-immigrant U.K. Independence Party, which has failed to win a single seat in Scotland).
When Glasgow banned punk bands in the 1970s, Paisley welcomed them. Two years ago, the town elected Mhairi Black, a fiery 20-year-old nationalist who had yet to complete her university exams, making her Britain’s youngest member of Parliament in at least 185 years. That also made her the face of Scotland’s anti-establishment revolt, one that ended decades of Labour Party rule and put the nationalists in charge.When Glasgow banned punk bands in the 1970s, Paisley welcomed them. Two years ago, the town elected Mhairi Black, a fiery 20-year-old nationalist who had yet to complete her university exams, making her Britain’s youngest member of Parliament in at least 185 years. That also made her the face of Scotland’s anti-establishment revolt, one that ended decades of Labour Party rule and put the nationalists in charge.
“Paisley is kind of synonymous with Scotland,” said Ms. Black, who recently conceded that she found Parliament in London “depressing” and was ready to quit, one recent afternoon. “There was a lack of confidence, but that is changing.”“Paisley is kind of synonymous with Scotland,” said Ms. Black, who recently conceded that she found Parliament in London “depressing” and was ready to quit, one recent afternoon. “There was a lack of confidence, but that is changing.”
Paisley was once one of the richest towns in Scotland, exporting intricately woven shawls featuring the namesake pattern made fashionable by the young Queen Victoria (and, much later, by The Beatles and by Jimi Hendrix, who is featured in his own mural in Paisley). It was also home to the Coats thread-making empire, which at one point produced 90 percent of the world’s sewing thread.Paisley was once one of the richest towns in Scotland, exporting intricately woven shawls featuring the namesake pattern made fashionable by the young Queen Victoria (and, much later, by The Beatles and by Jimi Hendrix, who is featured in his own mural in Paisley). It was also home to the Coats thread-making empire, which at one point produced 90 percent of the world’s sewing thread.
Monuments to its past wealth dot the town. With only 76,000 inhabitants, Paisley has the highest density of buildings listed as architecturally and historically significant in Scotland, outside of Edinburgh. They include the Baptist church; a domed Victorian observatory; an imposing neoclassical town hall; and the abbey, the cradle of the royal House of Stewart. The painter and playwright John Byrne is from Paisley, as are the actor Gerard Butler and the singer Paolo Nutini, “the best voice since Otis Redding,” in the opinion of one local resident.Monuments to its past wealth dot the town. With only 76,000 inhabitants, Paisley has the highest density of buildings listed as architecturally and historically significant in Scotland, outside of Edinburgh. They include the Baptist church; a domed Victorian observatory; an imposing neoclassical town hall; and the abbey, the cradle of the royal House of Stewart. The painter and playwright John Byrne is from Paisley, as are the actor Gerard Butler and the singer Paolo Nutini, “the best voice since Otis Redding,” in the opinion of one local resident.
But a mere five-minute drive away is Ferguslie Park, a notorious housing estate, parts of which rank at the bottom of the Scottish Index of Multiple Deprivation. Child poverty is high, and knife fights not uncommon. Advertised on the white board in the community center: a Narcotics Anonymous meeting and a coffee afternoon with Chest, Heart and Stroke Scotland.But a mere five-minute drive away is Ferguslie Park, a notorious housing estate, parts of which rank at the bottom of the Scottish Index of Multiple Deprivation. Child poverty is high, and knife fights not uncommon. Advertised on the white board in the community center: a Narcotics Anonymous meeting and a coffee afternoon with Chest, Heart and Stroke Scotland.
As recently as the 1960s, people had plenty of work in the cotton mills, in a large carpet factory and at a Chrysler plant, among other places. But since the factories closed, work is often unskilled and poorly paid. One mother of two recounted how she worked three part-time jobs and still had only the equivalent of a little over $100 a month to spend after paying rent and electrical bills.As recently as the 1960s, people had plenty of work in the cotton mills, in a large carpet factory and at a Chrysler plant, among other places. But since the factories closed, work is often unskilled and poorly paid. One mother of two recounted how she worked three part-time jobs and still had only the equivalent of a little over $100 a month to spend after paying rent and electrical bills.
Down Gauze Street, past Silk Street and up Mill Street, Mark Macmillan lives in a former cotton mill that is now an apartment building. The leader of the local council and a member of the ailing Labour Party, Mr. Macmillan is stepping down before local elections in May, which, if polls are to be believed, will also be won by the Scottish nationalists.Down Gauze Street, past Silk Street and up Mill Street, Mark Macmillan lives in a former cotton mill that is now an apartment building. The leader of the local council and a member of the ailing Labour Party, Mr. Macmillan is stepping down before local elections in May, which, if polls are to be believed, will also be won by the Scottish nationalists.
A marble mason-turned-politician, Mr. Macmillan is no fan of nationalism, not even the Scottish “cuddly” variety, he says. He quotes Jeremy Corbyn, the Labour leader: “You can’t eat a flag.”A marble mason-turned-politician, Mr. Macmillan is no fan of nationalism, not even the Scottish “cuddly” variety, he says. He quotes Jeremy Corbyn, the Labour leader: “You can’t eat a flag.”
Since the last referendum, Scotland’s oil and gas revenues have fallen sharply and growth has dipped. But if the economic case for independence has weakened, for many here, the political and emotional case has strengthened.Since the last referendum, Scotland’s oil and gas revenues have fallen sharply and growth has dipped. But if the economic case for independence has weakened, for many here, the political and emotional case has strengthened.
George Adam, who represents Paisley in the Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh, wears only ties that carry the Paisley pattern, or the black and white colors of the local soccer club. He joined the nationalists in 1987, a time when Margaret Thatcher, then the Conservative prime minister, left her mark on Scotland with regressive taxes and anti-union policies, even though few Scots voted for her.George Adam, who represents Paisley in the Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh, wears only ties that carry the Paisley pattern, or the black and white colors of the local soccer club. He joined the nationalists in 1987, a time when Margaret Thatcher, then the Conservative prime minister, left her mark on Scotland with regressive taxes and anti-union policies, even though few Scots voted for her.
“Scotland felt like a different country then,” he recalled. “Today, it does so more than ever.”“Scotland felt like a different country then,” he recalled. “Today, it does so more than ever.”
There is one thing that Paisley has in common with Stoke-on-Trent and Sunderland: They are all competing to become Britain’s City of Culture in 2021. The designation could bolster local pride and confidence, officials say. But by then, Scotland might be an independent country.There is one thing that Paisley has in common with Stoke-on-Trent and Sunderland: They are all competing to become Britain’s City of Culture in 2021. The designation could bolster local pride and confidence, officials say. But by then, Scotland might be an independent country.
Mr. Adam chuckled, adding, “We could be the first City of Culture in a newly independent Scotland.”Mr. Adam chuckled, adding, “We could be the first City of Culture in a newly independent Scotland.”