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Afghanistan's shattered history Afghanistan's shattered history
(1 day later)
By Martin Patience BBC News, Kabul Afghanistan is used to war on its land, but many Afghans still hope for a more peaceful and stable future.By Martin Patience BBC News, Kabul Afghanistan is used to war on its land, but many Afghans still hope for a more peaceful and stable future.
Ahmed Shah Massoud was also known as the 'Lion of Panshir'Ahmed Shah Massoud was also known as the 'Lion of Panshir'
With its steep sides, glistening blue river and green patchwork of fields, the Panshir valley is firmly associated with one man, Ahmed Shah Massoud, the so-called Lion of the Panshir.With its steep sides, glistening blue river and green patchwork of fields, the Panshir valley is firmly associated with one man, Ahmed Shah Massoud, the so-called Lion of the Panshir.
It was from this valley - with its crevices and caves - that Shah Massoud kept the Soviet army at bay throughout the 1980s.It was from this valley - with its crevices and caves - that Shah Massoud kept the Soviet army at bay throughout the 1980s.
He then fought the Taleban, which controlled most of the country from the mid-1990s until 2001.He then fought the Taleban, which controlled most of the country from the mid-1990s until 2001.
Not long before the 11 September attacks in the US, Shah Massoud was killed in a suicide bombing attack by a team masquerading as a TV crew.Not long before the 11 September attacks in the US, Shah Massoud was killed in a suicide bombing attack by a team masquerading as a TV crew.
Today many Afghans regard him as a national hero and his mausoleum can be found on a hilltop in the Panshir valley.Today many Afghans regard him as a national hero and his mausoleum can be found on a hilltop in the Panshir valley.
Its construction began in 2002, but six years on it is still not finished.Its construction began in 2002, but six years on it is still not finished.
The huge building is surrounded by scaffolding. Bamboo ladders reach up to a criss-cross of wooden platforms. Afghans want, and need, an escape from the pastThe huge building is surrounded by scaffolding. Bamboo ladders reach up to a criss-cross of wooden platforms. Afghans want, and need, an escape from the past
Every Friday, people from across Afghanistan come on a pilgrimage to this spot.Every Friday, people from across Afghanistan come on a pilgrimage to this spot.
One man called Farhad and a friend had driven for three hours to get here from Kabul.One man called Farhad and a friend had driven for three hours to get here from Kabul.
"It's beautiful," Farhad told me. "But I wish that the builders would hurry up and finish it.""It's beautiful," Farhad told me. "But I wish that the builders would hurry up and finish it."
Lost opportunitiesLost opportunities
It is seven years since the mainly American and British forces came to Afghanistan to drive out the Taleban and the al-Qaeda forces the movement was hosting. There is still a colossal amount of work to be done here.It is seven years since the mainly American and British forces came to Afghanistan to drive out the Taleban and the al-Qaeda forces the movement was hosting. There is still a colossal amount of work to be done here.
Yes, there has been some progress. More children - many of them girls - are going to school now. Health clinics have popped up across the country.Yes, there has been some progress. More children - many of them girls - are going to school now. Health clinics have popped up across the country.
Roads have been built, and travel times between many cities have been cut significantly. There is a parliament, although it doesn't always act in a democratic fashion.Roads have been built, and travel times between many cities have been cut significantly. There is a parliament, although it doesn't always act in a democratic fashion.
But for most people here, this progress isn't really enough.But for most people here, this progress isn't really enough.
(The south) is an extremely dangerous part of the country for Afghans, never mind foreigners(The south) is an extremely dangerous part of the country for Afghans, never mind foreigners
"We thought things would be better," is something that you hear constantly from Afghans. "The politicians and international community told us that things would become much better.""We thought things would be better," is something that you hear constantly from Afghans. "The politicians and international community told us that things would become much better."
It is not a comment made in anger, it is more a lament, an aching sense that opportunities have been lost.It is not a comment made in anger, it is more a lament, an aching sense that opportunities have been lost.
This is a country worn down by 30 years of war, where hopes are higher and disappointments crushingly lower than in almost any other country.This is a country worn down by 30 years of war, where hopes are higher and disappointments crushingly lower than in almost any other country.
Afghans want, and need, an escape from the past.Afghans want, and need, an escape from the past.
But fragments of the country's shattered history are everywhere But fragments of the country's shattered history are everywhere.
In Kabul, you might see an old man with a walking stick, and then you look closer and realise he has only got one leg. The other one was blown off by a landmine.In Kabul, you might see an old man with a walking stick, and then you look closer and realise he has only got one leg. The other one was blown off by a landmine.
Or a beggar, led by his relative, who has sidled up to my car on two or three occasions asking for money. You look into his eye and all you see is a barren socket.Or a beggar, led by his relative, who has sidled up to my car on two or three occasions asking for money. You look into his eye and all you see is a barren socket.
Afghanistan's ministries and public institutions are largely threadbare, ill-equipped, with untrained staff. In a country where a public official is likely to earn only a very small wage, corruption is like a virus.Afghanistan's ministries and public institutions are largely threadbare, ill-equipped, with untrained staff. In a country where a public official is likely to earn only a very small wage, corruption is like a virus.
In the south, Taleban insurgents and drug cartels rule the land.In the south, Taleban insurgents and drug cartels rule the land.
Many of those involved also have jobs with the government or even as policemen. This is an extremely dangerous part of the country for Afghans, never mind foreigners.Many of those involved also have jobs with the government or even as policemen. This is an extremely dangerous part of the country for Afghans, never mind foreigners.
Country of contrastsCountry of contrasts
The BBC's young reporter Abdul Samad Rohani was shot earlier this month in Helmand province. The Taleban reportedly denied involvement in Rohani's murder The BBC's young reporter Abdul Samad Rohani was shot earlier this month in Helmand province. The Taleban denied involvement in Rohani's murder
I met him once. He was a young, vivacious kid, full of life. But then his bullet-ridden corpse was found and the circumstances of the killing may never be known.I met him once. He was a young, vivacious kid, full of life. But then his bullet-ridden corpse was found and the circumstances of the killing may never be known.
But among the despair, there are glimpses of happiness, of better times.But among the despair, there are glimpses of happiness, of better times.
Weddings - the cement of Afghan society - continue to take place despite the instability and violence.Weddings - the cement of Afghan society - continue to take place despite the instability and violence.
The middle class in Kabul get married in a district of the city that is like a corner of Las Vegas. Neon lights jazz up the streets, and there is even an illuminated Eiffel tower, several storeys high, dominating the skyline. It is Kabul kitsch, but the Afghans seem to love it.The middle class in Kabul get married in a district of the city that is like a corner of Las Vegas. Neon lights jazz up the streets, and there is even an illuminated Eiffel tower, several storeys high, dominating the skyline. It is Kabul kitsch, but the Afghans seem to love it.
And there is Qargha lake, a half an hour's drive from the city. It is a beautiful, turquoise-blue stretch of water, where Afghans gather for Friday afternoon picnics.And there is Qargha lake, a half an hour's drive from the city. It is a beautiful, turquoise-blue stretch of water, where Afghans gather for Friday afternoon picnics.
There are speedboats, and pedaloes. Families sit in small huts and eat ice-cream.There are speedboats, and pedaloes. Families sit in small huts and eat ice-cream.
But even amid such beauty and apparent tranquillity, there is still much uncertainty.But even amid such beauty and apparent tranquillity, there is still much uncertainty.
Back at the Panshir valley, more people have arrived, their cars kicking up clouds of dust.Back at the Panshir valley, more people have arrived, their cars kicking up clouds of dust.
Through my translator, I asked one of the builders who was lounging in the shade, when the mausoleum would be finished. "In six months," he said, not terribly convincingly, as a lizard ran across the concrete steps.Through my translator, I asked one of the builders who was lounging in the shade, when the mausoleum would be finished. "In six months," he said, not terribly convincingly, as a lizard ran across the concrete steps.
Inside the mausoleum, a bare light bulb hangs above Shah Massoud's tomb.Inside the mausoleum, a bare light bulb hangs above Shah Massoud's tomb.
I ask the watchful guard when he thinks the mausoleum will be completed. He said possibly a year, but even then, he did not look terribly sure.I ask the watchful guard when he thinks the mausoleum will be completed. He said possibly a year, but even then, he did not look terribly sure.
A bit like Afghanistan itself, nobody, it seems, knows when this project will ever end.A bit like Afghanistan itself, nobody, it seems, knows when this project will ever end.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 26 June, 2008 at 1100 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 26 June, 2008 at 1100 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.