A $1,000 Day in Sydney for $100

http://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/31/travel/sydney-budget-travel-frugal-traveler.html

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I stumbled into the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel in Sydney after having suffered through a night at a particularly ratty Airbnb in the Surry Hills neighborhood, a once-scruffy inner suburb about 15 minutes south of the main tourist waterfront. The gleaming, spacious lobby, where Jorge Sousa, the chief concierge, greeted me, was a cruel contrast to the roach-infested, cat-hair-laden rental where I had spent the night tossing and turning. (No matter how good the reviews are, if it’s suspiciously inexpensive, run for the hills.)

Mr. Sousa, born in Mozambique to Portuguese parents, started in the hospitality industry when he moved to Australia in 1986. Working at the now-defunct Gazebo Hotel as a bellman, he remembers being in awe of his chief concierge at the time and becoming inspired to follow the same path: “How can you make what people perceive to be impossible, to make it possible? And for me, I just wanted to master that art.”

After I related my horror-Airbnb story, it was Mr. Sousa’s turn: Concierges all have war stories about guests’ odd requests. “There was a guest who came from Indonesia, and he really wanted to kill a goat in a room,” he told me over a cup of coffee. “Witchcraft had told him that if he didn’t kill a goat within 24 hours, all his family would die. And he was very serious about this particular matter.” The request was not accommodated. “Eventually the police had to be called,” Mr. Sousa said, declining to name the hotel where this had happened.

I was not there for any ritual sacrifice, however (though my lodging situation had left me considering all possible options). I was instead there to ask Mr. Sousa to create a daylong itinerary for a fictitious high-rolling guest amounting to $1,000, or roughly 1,320 Australian dollars.

I would then endeavor to recreate the itinerary — with some inevitable tweaks — on a decidedly more frugal $100. Sydney is a glamorous city that has nearly everything: world-famous landmarks, a glittering harbor, great beaches and food that holds its own against any in the world. It’s expensive, too, making it a fine challenge for the $100 treatment.

HIGH The chef Bill Granger opened his first place, Bills, in the Darlinghurst neighborhood of Sydney at age 24. His relaxed, feel-good modern Australian cuisine soon widened its reach in multiple locations. “I’m crazy for their poached eggs,” Mr. Sousa said. A “Fresh Aussie,” with gravlax, kale, avocado, poached eggs and cherry tomato on sourdough toast will run 28.50 dollars. Spice things up with a Bloody Mary made with Korean chile for an additional 18.50.

LOW Bourke Street Bakery, opened in 2004, has become a go-to spot throughout the Sydney area for pastries, breads, sweets and coffee. I recommend the original Bourke Street location, a shop on the corner with a quaint vibe and cute atmosphere. A bowl of crunchy muesli, poached pears, milk and a dollop of tart yogurt cost 8 dollars. (I know what you’re thinking — yogurt and milk? Trust me, it works.) A short black (3 dollars) to caffeinate and one of their lemon tarts (5.50) rounded off the meal. That their food tends to be highly Instagramable certainly doesn’t hurt, either.

HIGH If money is no object, why not see the sights from a helicopter? Mr. Sousa recommends the Sydney Heli Grand Flight from Sydney HeliTours, which covers a lot of ground in a relatively short period. In just 30 minutes, tourists can see some of the city’s notable landmarks, including the Sydney Opera House, Sydney Harbor Bridge and Sydney Cricket Ground, as well the coastline and well-known beaches like Manly and Bondi. The tour, which costs 350 dollars per person, includes refreshments and transportation to and from your hotel.

LOW I certainly couldn’t afford the chopper tour, but I was hoping to find an alternative that would also let me see the bridge and opera house. I found my solution, believe it or not, in the city’s public transportation system. In Sydney, whose lifeblood is the harbor and its series of small inlets and bays, hopping a ferry is as natural as hopping a train in New York City.

Using my pay-as-you-go Opal card (you add value as needed; this can be done in person, online and even by phone), I hopped a ferry from Circular Quay to Rose Bay. We pulled out of the wharf, passing the opera house and the bridge. From the upper deck of the ferry, mist cooling our faces on the hot day, we headed east, past Fort Denison, a former penal colony, and had fantastic views of the harbor and skyline. Once we arrived in Rose Bay, I simply stayed on the ferry and enjoyed the ride back to my origin point. Rose Bay was really just an arbitrary destination; there is an entire network of ferry lines to explore. Total cost to me: about 5.75 dollars. Even better, on Sundays you can ride all day for only 2.50.

HIGH Mr. Sousa wagered that our high roller would enjoy an expensive seafood lunch — a likely bet, given Sydney’s location and reputation for excellent fish. Nick’s Seafood Restaurant, overlooking the harbor, offers a seafood platter for two (175 dollars) that showcases a veritable cornucopia of marine delicacies: lobster, mussels, rock oysters, fresh and tempura-battered king prawns, blue swimmer crab, calamari and more.

LOW Sydney does nearly every Asian cuisine well, and Thai is no exception. Spice I Am has qualities that every lunch spot should strive for: It’s good, fast and inexpensive. An order of fiery pad kee mao with prawns was hugely filling and cost only 14.50 dollars. The chewy noodles with blazing hot chile (I ordered it “medium” — get mild if you can’t handle spice) and Thai basil brought a refreshing food sweat and energized me for the rest of the day.

Another worthy contender is the nahm prik nuum sandwich at Boon Cafe, recommended to me by Pat Nourse, the restaurant critic for Australian Gourmet Traveller. Boon Cafe is a casual spot on Pitt Street that makes up for its slow service (when I was there, at least) with some wonderful dishes. Take a fistful of fresh herbs, pickled cabbage, a dollop of pork sausage and some sinus-clearing Northern Thai green chile relish and you have a sandwich that contends with some of the best I’ve had.

HIGH The extraordinary Sydney Opera House, the Danish architect Jorn Utzon’s masterpiece, needs little introduction. But few realize that the Dane, who won the commission of the building in a 1957 competition, never got to see the completed structure. After butting heads with the incoming government over suppliers and the cost of materials in 1966, Mr. Utzon left Australia, the opera house unfinished. It wasn’t until 1973 that it was officially opened by Queen Elizabeth II, in a ceremony Mr. Utzon was not invited to.

The 165-dollar backstage tour of the opera house, which includes full breakfast and runs around two and a half hours, allows for a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the workings of the venue, with access to the stage and backstage areas. After that, why not take in a show? The Puccini classic “La Bohème” is running through March 24 in the Joan Sutherland Theater. You can expect to pay upward of 260 dollars for a decent seat to witness the trials and travails of Rodolfo, Mimi and Musetta.

LOW Many recognize the opera house’s distinctive profile, but the building’s appearance changes greatly depending on one’s viewing angle. This is because the opera house is actually a grouping of shells housing multiple performance areas, including a 2,679-seat concert hall and a more intimate studio with 280 fixed seats.

I passed on the more elaborate backstage tour for the regular 37-dollar one (33.30 dollars when booked online) — and found it very enjoyable, thanks in part to Laura Gomez, my group’s entertaining and capable tour guide. “‘A Flea in Her Ear,’” Ms. Gomez announced matter-of-factly during one stop on our tour, “is a farce. A farce involves going in and out of doors, up and down stairs, and usually a lover is in a wardrobe.” The rest of the tour was interesting, a mix of history and a look into the workings of the performance space. A highlight was being able to sit in on a rehearsal of “Coppélia,” a comic ballet set to the music of Delibes.

Instead of taking in a show at the opera house, which would definitely have blown my budget, I went instead to the Old Fitz Theater, at the Old Fitzroy Hotel, about a half-hour walk from the opera house. There I saw a less-polished but still energetic production of “Babes in the Woods,” which has ended its run (there are 10 shows planned for 2017).

The sharp-tongued comedy, which featured ridiculous costumes and sets done with the charm (and production value) of a Charlie Brown Christmas pageant, was more complex than the brainless farce it seemed to be during the first 10 minutes. There were some pointed critiques of Australian society in the pages of the script, particularly regarding policy toward indigenous Australians. Audience members can boo loudly, cheer lustily and throw pieces of cabbage and bread at the performers (a policy that nearly backfired during the show I attended thanks to one particularly aggressive person), and cast members peddle 5-dollar tinnies, or cans of beer. For 28 dollars, it wasn’t Puccini, but it was certainly entertaining.

HIGH Mr. Sousa calls Aria Restaurant his “personal favorite.” Matt Moran, the chef, helms this acclaimed fine dining destination, which showcases modern Australian cuisine and favors local produce. A seasonal tasting menu (320 dollars with wine pairing) might feature roasted lamb loin with labneh and cucumber, coral trout sashimi with kombu and chile, or champagne lobster French toast. In addition to elegant food, the restaurant offers some stunning views of the harbor.

LOW I had a view with my meal, too, but it wasn’t the harbor — it was the Pacific Ocean. Coogee Pavilion, located right on the beach a few miles outside the center of town, is a multilevel, family-friendly destination with a good seafood and pizza selection, a spacious rooftop bar, and entertaining novelty games appropriate for all ages (giant magnetic wall-mounted Scrabble, anyone?). For about 30 dollars, I got a very decent margherita pizza, which I shared with a friend, as well as a Boag’s, a local beer. There is better food to be had in the city, certainly, but I found that the focus in Australia is frequently more on atmosphere than anything else. That’s where Coogee Pavilion excels: a thoroughly enjoyable, no-worries vibe that captures the spirit of Sydney itself.