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Overcoming enmity in Bosnia | |
(40 minutes later) | |
Srebrenica's police chief Zelko Vidovic says the war has left scarsThirteen years after its civil war ended, Bosnia-Hercegovina is taking its first step towards joining the EU. But Humphrey Hawksley says it could be a long and detailed process. | Srebrenica's police chief Zelko Vidovic says the war has left scarsThirteen years after its civil war ended, Bosnia-Hercegovina is taking its first step towards joining the EU. But Humphrey Hawksley says it could be a long and detailed process. |
"We must show them we're working together," announced the police chief of Srebrenica, striding into the mayoral office without knocking. | "We must show them we're working together," announced the police chief of Srebrenica, striding into the mayoral office without knocking. |
"But it's a lie," retorted the deputy mayor Ramo Dautbasic, "because we don't." | "But it's a lie," retorted the deputy mayor Ramo Dautbasic, "because we don't." |
"We will," said the police chief, sitting in an armchair across from the coffee table, as my interpreter whispered a translation of what they were saying. | "We will," said the police chief, sitting in an armchair across from the coffee table, as my interpreter whispered a translation of what they were saying. |
'Genocidal massacre' | 'Genocidal massacre' |
The police chief, Zelko Vidovic, is a stocky, tough Serb, with a shock of grey hair, dressed in a neatly pressed blue summer uniform. | |
His eyes darted around the unfamiliar room. | His eyes darted around the unfamiliar room. |
It did not take much imagination to visualise how a few years ago these two men, instead of arguing, could simply have been trying to kill each other | It did not take much imagination to visualise how a few years ago these two men, instead of arguing, could simply have been trying to kill each other |
The deputy mayor is a local Muslim from Srebrenica itself. | The deputy mayor is a local Muslim from Srebrenica itself. |
He wore a dark, crumpled jacket, hair cropped to the skull, his face a mix of anger and frustration. | He wore a dark, crumpled jacket, hair cropped to the skull, his face a mix of anger and frustration. |
He had just been telling us how, in Srebrenica in July 1995, he helped six members of his family escape Europe's worst genocidal massacre since the World War II by hiding and walking for six days, keeping mainly to woodland, until they reached safety. | He had just been telling us how, in Srebrenica in July 1995, he helped six members of his family escape Europe's worst genocidal massacre since the World War II by hiding and walking for six days, keeping mainly to woodland, until they reached safety. |
His father, though, failed to escape and became one of the thousands of Muslim men and boys who were murdered by Serb militia. | His father, though, failed to escape and became one of the thousands of Muslim men and boys who were murdered by Serb militia. |
He had been showing us his father's photograph, which now lay on the table amid a pile of city hall documents. | He had been showing us his father's photograph, which now lay on the table amid a pile of city hall documents. |
Mr Vidovic had nothing to do with the massacre itself. | |
"I was fleeing from another army at the time," he said dismissively, with a wave of the hand. | |
Heated exchange | Heated exchange |
The tension in the room was edgy and suffocating. | The tension in the room was edgy and suffocating. |
It did not take much imagination to visualise how a few years ago these two men, instead of arguing, could simply have been trying to kill each other. | It did not take much imagination to visualise how a few years ago these two men, instead of arguing, could simply have been trying to kill each other. |
Mr Dautbasic began a string of complaints with an accusation that three years ago Serb extremists tried to blow up the memorial built for victims of the massacre. | |
"You found explosives," he said, "but why have you closed the investigation when no-one has been arrested? And what about all the other war crimes?" | "You found explosives," he said, "but why have you closed the investigation when no-one has been arrested? And what about all the other war crimes?" |
Mr Vidovic shook his head. "We only have normal crimes in Srebrenica," he countered. "There are no ethnic crimes and we're working closely together on it." | |
"That's not true," snapped Mr Dautbasic, drawing out a document from a folder. "And what about this. We have two vehicles given to us by the Turkish government and you've only registered one. Why can't you register the other one?" | |
A sharp exchange followed, until I interrupted. "Hold on. How often do you two guys actually meet, because you're meant to be running this town together, aren't you?" | A sharp exchange followed, until I interrupted. "Hold on. How often do you two guys actually meet, because you're meant to be running this town together, aren't you?" |
It turned out they rarely met at all. | It turned out they rarely met at all. |
'State-building' blueprint | 'State-building' blueprint |
The view from the hills overlooking the Bosnian capital Sarajevo is one of church towers, mosque minarets and a fair number of cemeteries. | The view from the hills overlooking the Bosnian capital Sarajevo is one of church towers, mosque minarets and a fair number of cemeteries. |
To face the challenges, there must be a vision and the only possible vision for Bosnia is the European Union Miroslav LajcakHigh Representative to Bosnia Some moments, you can hear the call to prayer mingling with the sound of church bells, because for centuries this country was both melting pot and frontier between the Islamic east and Christian Europe. | To face the challenges, there must be a vision and the only possible vision for Bosnia is the European Union Miroslav LajcakHigh Representative to Bosnia Some moments, you can hear the call to prayer mingling with the sound of church bells, because for centuries this country was both melting pot and frontier between the Islamic east and Christian Europe. |
It was also the starting point of two wars last century: the 1990s civil war and, in 1914, World War I, with the assassination there of the Austro-Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand by Serb nationalists. | It was also the starting point of two wars last century: the 1990s civil war and, in 1914, World War I, with the assassination there of the Austro-Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand by Serb nationalists. |
But Bosnia could now become a blueprint for what is known in diplomatic terms as "state-building". | But Bosnia could now become a blueprint for what is known in diplomatic terms as "state-building". |
The country of about four million is self-governing, but ultimate authority still lies with an internationally-appointed High Representative, who has enormous powers. He can fire politicians and order in troops. | The country of about four million is self-governing, but ultimate authority still lies with an internationally-appointed High Representative, who has enormous powers. He can fire politicians and order in troops. |
At present, the job is done by a Slovakian diplomat, Miroslav Lajcak, who believes the days of ethnic massacres are over, and that by far the majority of Bosnians are determined now to join the European Union. Although that could be another 10 years away. | At present, the job is done by a Slovakian diplomat, Miroslav Lajcak, who believes the days of ethnic massacres are over, and that by far the majority of Bosnians are determined now to join the European Union. Although that could be another 10 years away. |
"Would it be possible to rebuild Bosnia if there was no goal of European Union membership?" I asked. "Do you need that beacon?" | "Would it be possible to rebuild Bosnia if there was no goal of European Union membership?" I asked. "Do you need that beacon?" |
"Oh sure," he said. "To face the challenges, there must be a vision and the only possible vision for Bosnia is the European Union." | "Oh sure," he said. "To face the challenges, there must be a vision and the only possible vision for Bosnia is the European Union." |
New path | New path |
From the coffee shops to the new skyscrapers of Sarajevo, the EU vision is everywhere, but it has barely begun to seep through to more out-of-the-way places like Srebrenica. | From the coffee shops to the new skyscrapers of Sarajevo, the EU vision is everywhere, but it has barely begun to seep through to more out-of-the-way places like Srebrenica. |
In the town hall, as the bickering between the police chief and the deputy mayor reached full flow, I ask what each could do to make the other's job easier. | |
"He needs to implement the decisions of the city council," said Mr Dautbasic, jabbing his finger across the table. | |
"And he doesn't," Mr Vidovic shrugged. | |
"Maybe we should meet more often," continued Mr Dautbasic. | |
"Maybe we should," retorted the Serb police chief, getting up. He shook hands with each of us, then offered his hand to the Muslim deputy mayor, who deliberately did not respond. | "Maybe we should," retorted the Serb police chief, getting up. He shook hands with each of us, then offered his hand to the Muslim deputy mayor, who deliberately did not respond. |
His eyes were locked on the documents and the picture of his murdered father. | His eyes were locked on the documents and the picture of his murdered father. |
For a few unpredictable seconds, no-one spoke. | For a few unpredictable seconds, no-one spoke. |
Then Mr Dautbasic turned and took the police chief's hand, his expression reflecting the huge and complex personal decision that he had just taken. | |
It is one that will be replicated time and time again throughout Bosnia as it moulds itself into a modern European nation. | |
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 19 June, 2008, at 1100 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times. | From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 19 June, 2008, at 1100 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times. |