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Local concerns over Indian utopia | Local concerns over Indian utopia |
(about 11 hours later) | |
Some call The Matrimandir, the giant golden golf ball.Enlarge Image Auroville sounds like a throwback to the 60s, advocating no rules and leaders and promising peace and harmony, but Rachel Wright hears claims of exploitation and abuse at the southern Indian community. | Some call The Matrimandir, the giant golden golf ball.Enlarge Image Auroville sounds like a throwback to the 60s, advocating no rules and leaders and promising peace and harmony, but Rachel Wright hears claims of exploitation and abuse at the southern Indian community. |
Some call it the giant golden golf ball, and the description is just right. The Matrimandir - literally the temple of the Mother - is a huge eight-sided almost-spherical building. | Some call it the giant golden golf ball, and the description is just right. The Matrimandir - literally the temple of the Mother - is a huge eight-sided almost-spherical building. |
It is surrounded by carefully manicured lawns, something of an achievement in arid southern India, and visitors are allowed in only by special appointment. | It is surrounded by carefully manicured lawns, something of an achievement in arid southern India, and visitors are allowed in only by special appointment. |
I joined a group of tourists, mainly Indians, who were being shown around by a middle-aged Frenchman called Gilles. It struck me as a little strange that a European was showing Indians round a town in their own country. | I joined a group of tourists, mainly Indians, who were being shown around by a middle-aged Frenchman called Gilles. It struck me as a little strange that a European was showing Indians round a town in their own country. |
But then Auroville is a strange place. Gilles, who has lived there since the early 1980s had helped build the Matrimandir. | But then Auroville is a strange place. Gilles, who has lived there since the early 1980s had helped build the Matrimandir. |
He enthused about the symbolism, about the symmetry, and about a woman known as the mother, while we stood under an enormous banyan tree, sheltering from the blistering south Indian sun. | He enthused about the symbolism, about the symmetry, and about a woman known as the mother, while we stood under an enormous banyan tree, sheltering from the blistering south Indian sun. |
The mother was a French woman called Mirra Alfassa, who lived in nearby Pondicherry, a former French colony. | The mother was a French woman called Mirra Alfassa, who lived in nearby Pondicherry, a former French colony. |
She was a disciple of a well-known Indian philosopher called Shri Aurobindo, who had moved to the town after he was imprisoned under the British Raj. | She was a disciple of a well-known Indian philosopher called Shri Aurobindo, who had moved to the town after he was imprisoned under the British Raj. |
Pixie dust | Pixie dust |
Shri Aurobindo believed that evolution was not at an end. The mother decided that Auroville would be where that evolution could continue, a universal town where people from around the world could live together in harmony and unity, without having to worry about food and shelter. | Shri Aurobindo believed that evolution was not at an end. The mother decided that Auroville would be where that evolution could continue, a universal town where people from around the world could live together in harmony and unity, without having to worry about food and shelter. |
A place where there were no rules, no leaders and no money. | A place where there were no rules, no leaders and no money. |
She proclaimed that at its centre would be the Matrimandir, the soul of Auroville. It was only finished this year, in time for the 40th anniversary. | She proclaimed that at its centre would be the Matrimandir, the soul of Auroville. It was only finished this year, in time for the 40th anniversary. |
Gilles took us inside. Everything was completely white; the carpets on the floor, the marble on the walls, even the socks we were given to wear so we would not dirty the floors. | Gilles took us inside. Everything was completely white; the carpets on the floor, the marble on the walls, even the socks we were given to wear so we would not dirty the floors. |
We ascended a walkway to the upper chamber, and opened the door to see what was said to be the largest crystal in the world, lit by a single shaft of sunlight. | We ascended a walkway to the upper chamber, and opened the door to see what was said to be the largest crystal in the world, lit by a single shaft of sunlight. |
As my eyes adjusted to the gloom, specks of fluff rose up from the carpet twinkling like pixie dust. | As my eyes adjusted to the gloom, specks of fluff rose up from the carpet twinkling like pixie dust. |
We all sat down on mats in front of white pillars that did not actually connect to the ceiling. | We all sat down on mats in front of white pillars that did not actually connect to the ceiling. |
Cushions were handed out to protect the columns from being marked when we lent against them. We sat in silence for 15 minutes. | Cushions were handed out to protect the columns from being marked when we lent against them. We sat in silence for 15 minutes. |
The idea is not necessarily to pray, but rather to be quiet in a holy place. | The idea is not necessarily to pray, but rather to be quiet in a holy place. |
As we walked out into a wall of heat, Gilles explained that the building of the universal town was going very slowly. | As we walked out into a wall of heat, Gilles explained that the building of the universal town was going very slowly. |
When they began in 1968 the plan had been for a city for 50,000, 40 years later there are only 2,000 people living there, two thirds of them Westerners. | When they began in 1968 the plan had been for a city for 50,000, 40 years later there are only 2,000 people living there, two thirds of them Westerners. |
I asked my French guide whether he thought the ideals of the mother had been realised. | I asked my French guide whether he thought the ideals of the mother had been realised. |
Ideal society? | Ideal society? |
"For an ideal society," he replied, "you have to have ideal people, and we don't have ideal people." | "For an ideal society," he replied, "you have to have ideal people, and we don't have ideal people." |
"So how do you make them ideal?" I asked. | "So how do you make them ideal?" I asked. |
Well, the answer is, according to the philosophy of Auroville, through practising yoga. Later I asked Gilles whether there were some residents here less ideal than others. | Well, the answer is, according to the philosophy of Auroville, through practising yoga. Later I asked Gilles whether there were some residents here less ideal than others. |
"I'd get rid of half of them," he told me conspiratorially. | "I'd get rid of half of them," he told me conspiratorially. |
Around 4,000 people are employed at Auroville | |
Aurovillians receive a small maintenance grant, partly funded by the Indian government. In exchange they are supposed to volunteer for a few hours work every day, "the rest of the time they are seeking the divine", supposedly. | Aurovillians receive a small maintenance grant, partly funded by the Indian government. In exchange they are supposed to volunteer for a few hours work every day, "the rest of the time they are seeking the divine", supposedly. |
Actually, they are also in the business of making money, there are at least 120 commercial enterprises operating here, making incense, clothes, silk paintings and so on. | Actually, they are also in the business of making money, there are at least 120 commercial enterprises operating here, making incense, clothes, silk paintings and so on. |
Under the rules, they can keep two-thirds of the profits and pay no tax. | Under the rules, they can keep two-thirds of the profits and pay no tax. |
The locals think it is not fair. They are the ones who work full-time, and often for less than the Aurovillians get in maintenance grants. | The locals think it is not fair. They are the ones who work full-time, and often for less than the Aurovillians get in maintenance grants. |
"I feel like a slave," one of them told me. | "I feel like a slave," one of them told me. |
It's like being back in the days of the British Raj Worker at Auroville | It's like being back in the days of the British Raj Worker at Auroville |
"Of course they do provide us with jobs," he said, "but it's very difficult for us local Tamils to become members." | "Of course they do provide us with jobs," he said, "but it's very difficult for us local Tamils to become members." |
"It's like being back in the days of the British Raj," said another. | "It's like being back in the days of the British Raj," said another. |
Abuse claims | Abuse claims |
"They are allowed to get away with whatever they like, including paying our children to have sex with them, and we are powerless to complain." | "They are allowed to get away with whatever they like, including paying our children to have sex with them, and we are powerless to complain." |
To be fair Auroville does do a great deal for the local community; it employs 4000 people, runs schools for local children and has reforested an enormous area that was once a barren landscape. | To be fair Auroville does do a great deal for the local community; it employs 4000 people, runs schools for local children and has reforested an enormous area that was once a barren landscape. |
But even the Aurovillian authorities admit that the community did in the mid-90s include a convicted paedophile. | But even the Aurovillian authorities admit that the community did in the mid-90s include a convicted paedophile. |
They say they have strict procedures in place to deal with any incidents that might arise in the future. | They say they have strict procedures in place to deal with any incidents that might arise in the future. |
Auroville is certainly a strange sort of place, but some way short, I would say, of being an ideal society. | Auroville is certainly a strange sort of place, but some way short, I would say, of being an ideal society. |
Watch a full investigation by BBC Two's Newsnight into Auroville which includes a detailed response to the allegations from Carel Thieme of the Auroville Working Committee. | Watch a full investigation by BBC Two's Newsnight into Auroville which includes a detailed response to the allegations from Carel Thieme of the Auroville Working Committee. |
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 24 May, 2008 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times. | From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 24 May, 2008 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times. |
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