This article is from the source 'nytimes' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.

You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/11/world/middleeast/hajj-mecca-saudi-arabia.html

The article has changed 11 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.

Version 8 Version 9
Throwing Stones and Slaughtering Sheep at the Hajj Throwing Stones and Slaughtering Sheep at the Hajj
(35 minutes later)
Usually, the post office is how you send mail or pay your bills. In Saudi Arabia during the hajj, it’s where you pay for your animal sacrifice.Usually, the post office is how you send mail or pay your bills. In Saudi Arabia during the hajj, it’s where you pay for your animal sacrifice.
It costs 460 riyals, or about $120, to have a sheep slaughtered. The sacrifice, known as the hadi, is incumbent on all pilgrims, who must donate at least two-thirds of the meat to the poor.It costs 460 riyals, or about $120, to have a sheep slaughtered. The sacrifice, known as the hadi, is incumbent on all pilgrims, who must donate at least two-thirds of the meat to the poor.
Modern pilgrims usually have a slaughterhouse near Mecca do this for them, via the local post office.Modern pilgrims usually have a slaughterhouse near Mecca do this for them, via the local post office.
How do you know your animal was sacrificed? By text message, of course.How do you know your animal was sacrificed? By text message, of course.
Outside Saudi Post in Mina, the sprawling tent city where pilgrims live for part of the hajj, Marwan Nabil, 22, who is from Yemen, began to worry when he had not received his confirmation.Outside Saudi Post in Mina, the sprawling tent city where pilgrims live for part of the hajj, Marwan Nabil, 22, who is from Yemen, began to worry when he had not received his confirmation.
“The system is down, but don’t worry, it will be done in an hour,” said Faisal Al-Harbi, a postal worker.“The system is down, but don’t worry, it will be done in an hour,” said Faisal Al-Harbi, a postal worker.
It was all so neat and tidy.It was all so neat and tidy.
Not so in a humid, sweaty slaughterhouse on the edge of Mecca: Men in stained robes hauled flailing sheep into the building. One man dragged his prey by its leg, and another carried one of the animals on his back.Not so in a humid, sweaty slaughterhouse on the edge of Mecca: Men in stained robes hauled flailing sheep into the building. One man dragged his prey by its leg, and another carried one of the animals on his back.
Butchers in red T-shirts hacked with curved blades at skinned sheep hanging on hooks. Cleaners in yellow T-shirts dumped sheep guts into drains under the killing floor.Butchers in red T-shirts hacked with curved blades at skinned sheep hanging on hooks. Cleaners in yellow T-shirts dumped sheep guts into drains under the killing floor.
Nearby, men in muddy clothes sat on a dirty red carpet, watching animals being chopped up. Outside the slaughterhouse, a Pakistani woman shook an empty plastic bag. “Meat?” she asked, hoping charitable locals would oblige.Nearby, men in muddy clothes sat on a dirty red carpet, watching animals being chopped up. Outside the slaughterhouse, a Pakistani woman shook an empty plastic bag. “Meat?” she asked, hoping charitable locals would oblige.
For pilgrims who are not strong enough to endure the long trek of the hajj, there are men with wheelchairs for hire who will push them from site to site, ritual to ritual.For pilgrims who are not strong enough to endure the long trek of the hajj, there are men with wheelchairs for hire who will push them from site to site, ritual to ritual.
But it’s not cheap. One wheelchair pusher told me he charged older clients 200 riyals, or about $53, for a day.But it’s not cheap. One wheelchair pusher told me he charged older clients 200 riyals, or about $53, for a day.
I asked him how he set his price, and if he charged by weight.I asked him how he set his price, and if he charged by weight.
On the third day of the hajj, pilgrims throw rocks at three stone pillars near Jamarat Bridge in a re-enactment of Ibrahim (or Abraham) stoning the devil as he tries to follow God’s commandment.On the third day of the hajj, pilgrims throw rocks at three stone pillars near Jamarat Bridge in a re-enactment of Ibrahim (or Abraham) stoning the devil as he tries to follow God’s commandment.
Jamarat has been a notorious choke point for hajj crowds. That’s where hundreds, maybe thousands, of pilgrims died last year in a crush of people. In 2004, my sister was caught in one of the hajj throngs.Jamarat has been a notorious choke point for hajj crowds. That’s where hundreds, maybe thousands, of pilgrims died last year in a crush of people. In 2004, my sister was caught in one of the hajj throngs.
Security officials this year are trying to limit the number of pilgrims who can go to Jamarat at any given time. To avoid dangerous backups, officials have instituted one-way pedestrian roads for pilgrims from the tent city of Mina to the Jamarat building. And directions flash in English and Arabic to keep people moving.Security officials this year are trying to limit the number of pilgrims who can go to Jamarat at any given time. To avoid dangerous backups, officials have instituted one-way pedestrian roads for pilgrims from the tent city of Mina to the Jamarat building. And directions flash in English and Arabic to keep people moving.
I collected 49 small rocks in an empty water bottle for the ritual, and some more experienced pilgrims showed me how to carefully but purposefully throw my stones. Tip: Nobody likes a lefty. After throwing my first batch of stones with my left hand, I was politely corrected. I joked that any devil could duck my left-handed throw. I collected 49 small rocks in an empty water bottle for the ritual, and some more experienced pilgrims showed me how to carefully but purposefully throw my stones. Tip: Nobody likes a lefty. After throwing my first batch of stones with my left hand, I was politely corrected. I joked that any devil could duck my right-handed throw.
I grew up in an observant Muslim family in Canberra, Australia, but stopped wearing a head scarf in college and now, at 38, lead a largely secular life. Naturally, as a reporter, I came on my first hajj — the five-day pilgrimage, filled with rituals, that is required of every Muslim — with many questions.I grew up in an observant Muslim family in Canberra, Australia, but stopped wearing a head scarf in college and now, at 38, lead a largely secular life. Naturally, as a reporter, I came on my first hajj — the five-day pilgrimage, filled with rituals, that is required of every Muslim — with many questions.
How would people from stunningly different places, like Inner Mongolia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and New Jersey, interact? Who gets to kiss the rock lodged inside the Kaaba, the black cube that pilgrims circle seven times? What would I pray for on the second day atop Mount Arafat, a time and place in which our tradition tells us God answers petitions? Where do two million people poop?How would people from stunningly different places, like Inner Mongolia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and New Jersey, interact? Who gets to kiss the rock lodged inside the Kaaba, the black cube that pilgrims circle seven times? What would I pray for on the second day atop Mount Arafat, a time and place in which our tradition tells us God answers petitions? Where do two million people poop?
I’m still working on my list (scroll down for video and snapshots), but I took some time to answer questions that readers submitted on nytimes.com.I’m still working on my list (scroll down for video and snapshots), but I took some time to answer questions that readers submitted on nytimes.com.
What is inside the Kaaba? Has it been rebuilt over the centuries? Do men and women walk around the Kaaba at the same time?What is inside the Kaaba? Has it been rebuilt over the centuries? Do men and women walk around the Kaaba at the same time?
— Swaroop Conjeevaram, North Royalton, Ohio— Swaroop Conjeevaram, North Royalton, Ohio
Are women and men allowed to circle the Kaaba together, or are the genders segregated?Are women and men allowed to circle the Kaaba together, or are the genders segregated?
— Mary Ann Hall, North Charleston, S.C.— Mary Ann Hall, North Charleston, S.C.
Only very high-level delegations are allowed in the Kaaba, and not often. There are blurry videos online that seem to show it mostly empty save for two pillars, an altar, incense lamps and plaques on the wall. What we can say for sure is what is not there: images of the gods that pre-Islamic Arabs once worshiped and kept inside the Kaaba. I love the idea that the place Muslims must pray to is empty. Muslims are internalizing in every prayer that the one god they worship cannot be represented in an image and cannot be imagined, to the point where the house sanctified to God is empty.Only very high-level delegations are allowed in the Kaaba, and not often. There are blurry videos online that seem to show it mostly empty save for two pillars, an altar, incense lamps and plaques on the wall. What we can say for sure is what is not there: images of the gods that pre-Islamic Arabs once worshiped and kept inside the Kaaba. I love the idea that the place Muslims must pray to is empty. Muslims are internalizing in every prayer that the one god they worship cannot be represented in an image and cannot be imagined, to the point where the house sanctified to God is empty.
The Kaaba is renovated from time to time, but sparingly so, out of respect for the structure’s importance to Islam.The Kaaba is renovated from time to time, but sparingly so, out of respect for the structure’s importance to Islam.
Men and women do walk around the Kaaba at the same time. In that way, it’s a unique holy site in Islam where the sexes mix and undertake their rites together.Men and women do walk around the Kaaba at the same time. In that way, it’s a unique holy site in Islam where the sexes mix and undertake their rites together.
What is the connection between the Kaaba and Allah?What is the connection between the Kaaba and Allah?
— Daan Bijdevaate, the Netherlands— Daan Bijdevaate, the Netherlands
Muslims believe that the prophet Ibrahim — the biblical Abraham — built the Kaaba to worship the one true God. Some think it sits on the site where Adam, the first human, had his own prayer space. In all cases, Muslims see it as the oldest house of worship for the one God; it is also called Beit Allah, House of God. The pilgrim, in turn, is a “guest of the House of God.”Muslims believe that the prophet Ibrahim — the biblical Abraham — built the Kaaba to worship the one true God. Some think it sits on the site where Adam, the first human, had his own prayer space. In all cases, Muslims see it as the oldest house of worship for the one God; it is also called Beit Allah, House of God. The pilgrim, in turn, is a “guest of the House of God.”
Are non-Muslims allowed to watch the hajj, such as tourists or visitors?Are non-Muslims allowed to watch the hajj, such as tourists or visitors?
— Sarah C., Santiago, Chile— Sarah C., Santiago, Chile
Why are non-Muslims not allowed in Mecca?Why are non-Muslims not allowed in Mecca?
— Fabian Babich, Sydney, Australia— Fabian Babich, Sydney, Australia
Are Christians welcome to observe the rituals?Are Christians welcome to observe the rituals?
— Erin Bunting, Aliquippa, Pa.— Erin Bunting, Aliquippa, Pa.
Only on the live television broadcasts. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the holy sites, based on the Quran’s Chapter 9, Verse 28, which says, “Oh believers, verily the polytheists are impure, so let them not approach the Masjid al-Haram after this, their final year.” This is so rigidly enforced that there is a special highway bypassing the area.Only on the live television broadcasts. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the holy sites, based on the Quran’s Chapter 9, Verse 28, which says, “Oh believers, verily the polytheists are impure, so let them not approach the Masjid al-Haram after this, their final year.” This is so rigidly enforced that there is a special highway bypassing the area.
In any case, there’s no room. The Saudi government already limits the number of people allowed into Mecca during hajj to about two million; many countries have a lottery system to select pilgrims. I met a Palestinian man who had applied for seven years and, at 72, had worried he might die before seeing the holy sites.In any case, there’s no room. The Saudi government already limits the number of people allowed into Mecca during hajj to about two million; many countries have a lottery system to select pilgrims. I met a Palestinian man who had applied for seven years and, at 72, had worried he might die before seeing the holy sites.
How is it going with the bathroom situation?How is it going with the bathroom situation?
— Lynn Bender, Davis, Calif.— Lynn Bender, Davis, Calif.
I think the Saudis have gone to some effort to try to make bathrooms as available as possible. Nobody has peed in front of me, as happened to members of my family when they came here. But we are on the move so much that sometimes I have to hold it in for hours. Luckily, we’re not eating much heavy food. Also, since my journalist visa makes me a V.I.P. guest of the Saudi government, I’m staying in a compound where there are clean toilets and showers.I think the Saudis have gone to some effort to try to make bathrooms as available as possible. Nobody has peed in front of me, as happened to members of my family when they came here. But we are on the move so much that sometimes I have to hold it in for hours. Luckily, we’re not eating much heavy food. Also, since my journalist visa makes me a V.I.P. guest of the Saudi government, I’m staying in a compound where there are clean toilets and showers.
How accessible are relief stations for, say, heatstroke?How accessible are relief stations for, say, heatstroke?
— Ahad Chowdhury, Chino, Calif.— Ahad Chowdhury, Chino, Calif.
That was something I worried about a lot before I came. I have not seen many medic stations, but I have seen ambulances and hospitals. Also, pilgrims are constantly spraying one another with water to avoid overheating, and many places have structures that emit a fine mist to cool you down.That was something I worried about a lot before I came. I have not seen many medic stations, but I have seen ambulances and hospitals. Also, pilgrims are constantly spraying one another with water to avoid overheating, and many places have structures that emit a fine mist to cool you down.
Do people stay with the people they came with (or stay alone), or do they also connect with strangers and make new friends?Do people stay with the people they came with (or stay alone), or do they also connect with strangers and make new friends?
— Ani Grosser, Lenox, Mass.— Ani Grosser, Lenox, Mass.
Well, my mum was hoping I’d find a husband here! Usually pilgrims come in delegations and stay with them in the same hotels, travel on the same buses and share the same meals. Except for interviews, it’s been hard to meet people because they tend to move in big units.Well, my mum was hoping I’d find a husband here! Usually pilgrims come in delegations and stay with them in the same hotels, travel on the same buses and share the same meals. Except for interviews, it’s been hard to meet people because they tend to move in big units.
In my news media delegation, there is a Yemeni woman who looks like a sweet granny until she flips on her niqab. She’s always smiling and she’s my favorite.In my news media delegation, there is a Yemeni woman who looks like a sweet granny until she flips on her niqab. She’s always smiling and she’s my favorite.
Do young men and women try to make friends?Do young men and women try to make friends?
— Mo Kareem, Houston— Mo Kareem, Houston
I don’t see much mixing, and it’s hard to see where it could happen, except perhaps while circulating the Kaaba. Men and women mostly pray separately, and they sleep in separate quarters. It’s also forbidden for even married people to have sex during hajj, so I’m guessing that any premarital mixing, which Islam already sees as sinful, would be considered doubly bad!I don’t see much mixing, and it’s hard to see where it could happen, except perhaps while circulating the Kaaba. Men and women mostly pray separately, and they sleep in separate quarters. It’s also forbidden for even married people to have sex during hajj, so I’m guessing that any premarital mixing, which Islam already sees as sinful, would be considered doubly bad!
I saw an ad for the hajj at a tour company and one package had ANIMAL SACRIFICE as an option. What is the deal with this?I saw an ad for the hajj at a tour company and one package had ANIMAL SACRIFICE as an option. What is the deal with this?
— Beth Harrison, Millburn, N.J.— Beth Harrison, Millburn, N.J.
I wish I had that option! One requirement of the hajj is for each pilgrim to ritually slaughter an animal — sheep, cow, camel or goat — at the end. If your hajj package does not have a sacrifice option, which means the tour company does it on your behalf, you can also buy a coupon here in Mecca for a slaughterhouse to take care of it. Pilgrims who do it soon enough receive a confirmation by text message that their chosen animal has been slaughtered, and the government undertakes to distribute the meat to the poor around the world.I wish I had that option! One requirement of the hajj is for each pilgrim to ritually slaughter an animal — sheep, cow, camel or goat — at the end. If your hajj package does not have a sacrifice option, which means the tour company does it on your behalf, you can also buy a coupon here in Mecca for a slaughterhouse to take care of it. Pilgrims who do it soon enough receive a confirmation by text message that their chosen animal has been slaughtered, and the government undertakes to distribute the meat to the poor around the world.
I am interested to know your (inner) feelings about bikini and burkini before and after the hajj.I am interested to know your (inner) feelings about bikini and burkini before and after the hajj.
— Mohammed Basith, New York— Mohammed Basith, New York
I think both bikinis and burkinis — the full-body swimsuits designed to adhere to Islamic modesty codes and banned recently by some French beach towns — are fine. I find it offensive when any faith (including, yes, Islam) dictates what a woman should wear. I also find the contemporary secular obsession with women needing to be thin and to look young to be depressing.I think both bikinis and burkinis — the full-body swimsuits designed to adhere to Islamic modesty codes and banned recently by some French beach towns — are fine. I find it offensive when any faith (including, yes, Islam) dictates what a woman should wear. I also find the contemporary secular obsession with women needing to be thin and to look young to be depressing.
Is there an off-season where one can do the full hajj but with fewer teeming multitudes?Is there an off-season where one can do the full hajj but with fewer teeming multitudes?
— Steven Adkins, Aucamville, France— Steven Adkins, Aucamville, France
Nice idea, but the full hajj can begin only on the 8th of Dhul-Hijjah, the last month of the Islamic calendar. The good news is that it’s a lunar calendar, so sometimes hajj is in the winter, a lovely time to visit this desert plain.Nice idea, but the full hajj can begin only on the 8th of Dhul-Hijjah, the last month of the Islamic calendar. The good news is that it’s a lunar calendar, so sometimes hajj is in the winter, a lovely time to visit this desert plain.
If you really can’t handle crowds, there is always umrah, a kind of mini-pilgrimage Muslims can do anytime. You mainly circle the Kaaba and walk between the hills of Safa and Marwa, which are now enclosed within the sprawling (and air-conditioned) Grand Mosque.If you really can’t handle crowds, there is always umrah, a kind of mini-pilgrimage Muslims can do anytime. You mainly circle the Kaaba and walk between the hills of Safa and Marwa, which are now enclosed within the sprawling (and air-conditioned) Grand Mosque.
I get nervous and tetchy in crowds, but so far I’ve done O.K. The fear melts away, and at some point you stop caring about the sweat and viruses everybody is sharing.I get nervous and tetchy in crowds, but so far I’ve done O.K. The fear melts away, and at some point you stop caring about the sweat and viruses everybody is sharing.
The pilgrims’ chants of “Here I am, O Lord” were barely audible over the crunch-crunch of plastic water bottles squashed underfoot as we jostled toward Mount Arafat on Sunday, the greatest day of the annual hajj. Muslims believe it is when God will answer all sincere prayers offered there.The pilgrims’ chants of “Here I am, O Lord” were barely audible over the crunch-crunch of plastic water bottles squashed underfoot as we jostled toward Mount Arafat on Sunday, the greatest day of the annual hajj. Muslims believe it is when God will answer all sincere prayers offered there.
As the sun blazed, men and boys splashed the crowds gleefully with the last ounces from their bottles. Some ducked their heads under gushes from a supply tower, and a few kind souls offered to turn their spray bottles onto strangers’ faces.As the sun blazed, men and boys splashed the crowds gleefully with the last ounces from their bottles. Some ducked their heads under gushes from a supply tower, and a few kind souls offered to turn their spray bottles onto strangers’ faces.
At first I was disappointed to see the mess of bottles and mud, a cleaning man in bright yellow and green looking on helplessly: I had thought Arafat would be austere and clean. But the pilgrims’ cheery mood brightened my own.At first I was disappointed to see the mess of bottles and mud, a cleaning man in bright yellow and green looking on helplessly: I had thought Arafat would be austere and clean. But the pilgrims’ cheery mood brightened my own.
Of course it was dirty. Two million people were walking together on a hot day to a rocky hill and sucking down bottles of water. Of course the cleaner couldn’t sweep it up — yet; he could cause a deadly crush if he got in the way of that river of pilgrims. So I, too, crunched the bottles, tried not to slip, let people spray me with water. I even prayed.Of course it was dirty. Two million people were walking together on a hot day to a rocky hill and sucking down bottles of water. Of course the cleaner couldn’t sweep it up — yet; he could cause a deadly crush if he got in the way of that river of pilgrims. So I, too, crunched the bottles, tried not to slip, let people spray me with water. I even prayed.
At the end of the hajj, men are required to shave their heads, and women to cut a lock of hair. At the busy barber complex near the Grand Mosque, they’ll buzz you with a razor (disposable) or scissors for $4; a machine cut is $2.70. Signs around the mosque warn pilgrims not to cut hair inside the complex — it turns out some people like to D.I.Y. at Islam’s holiest site.At the end of the hajj, men are required to shave their heads, and women to cut a lock of hair. At the busy barber complex near the Grand Mosque, they’ll buzz you with a razor (disposable) or scissors for $4; a machine cut is $2.70. Signs around the mosque warn pilgrims not to cut hair inside the complex — it turns out some people like to D.I.Y. at Islam’s holiest site.
I mean no disrespect when I say Mecca is, well, a mecca for shopping. People have come here to pray, but even five times daily leaves time for the glittering gold shops that line Ajyad Street.I mean no disrespect when I say Mecca is, well, a mecca for shopping. People have come here to pray, but even five times daily leaves time for the glittering gold shops that line Ajyad Street.
This year’s big sellers: lightweight rings and white, rose and yellow bracelets so finely spun that they feel like cotton candy on the wrist. Traders, as they do, lament that last year was better — instability throughout the Middle East has left fewer buyers for the higher-priced bling.This year’s big sellers: lightweight rings and white, rose and yellow bracelets so finely spun that they feel like cotton candy on the wrist. Traders, as they do, lament that last year was better — instability throughout the Middle East has left fewer buyers for the higher-priced bling.
For those with lighter wallets, children hawk velvet prayer rugs decorated with images of the Kaaba for $2.60. People sell flip-flops for the inevitable pilgrim who has lost her shoes somewhere around the Grand Mosque, calling out the prices in Urdu: “Panj! Panj! Panj!” Five! Five! Five! The pharmacy on Ajyad Street is constantly packed, doing a roaring trade in antibiotics — hajj flu again — and anti-diarrhea pills.For those with lighter wallets, children hawk velvet prayer rugs decorated with images of the Kaaba for $2.60. People sell flip-flops for the inevitable pilgrim who has lost her shoes somewhere around the Grand Mosque, calling out the prices in Urdu: “Panj! Panj! Panj!” Five! Five! Five! The pharmacy on Ajyad Street is constantly packed, doing a roaring trade in antibiotics — hajj flu again — and anti-diarrhea pills.
Sitting next to a group of Saudi women who resembled large black crows in their billowing robes, double face veils and gloves, I noticed they all wore little rings that looked like miniature pedometers. When I asked how many miles one woman had walked that day, she laughed.Sitting next to a group of Saudi women who resembled large black crows in their billowing robes, double face veils and gloves, I noticed they all wore little rings that looked like miniature pedometers. When I asked how many miles one woman had walked that day, she laughed.
It turned out the rings were electronic prayer counters. Muslims often keep track of individual prayers like “I seek God’s forgiveness,” believing that they earn credit for a good deed, or hasana, with each supplication. Prayers uttered at the Grand Mosque are said to be worth 100,000 times those said elsewhere.It turned out the rings were electronic prayer counters. Muslims often keep track of individual prayers like “I seek God’s forgiveness,” believing that they earn credit for a good deed, or hasana, with each supplication. Prayers uttered at the Grand Mosque are said to be worth 100,000 times those said elsewhere.
One of the women, Hanan, showed me her counter: 266, and it was only noon. Then she thrust the device into my hands and told me to “keep it, so you can always count your prayers.” I politely declined.One of the women, Hanan, showed me her counter: 266, and it was only noon. Then she thrust the device into my hands and told me to “keep it, so you can always count your prayers.” I politely declined.
The big and the small. For Syria. For refugees to find homes and acceptance. That children would go to sleep with full stomachs and mothers able to love and care for them. I prayed for my friend’s mother who has cancer, and tried to remember all the other friends, most of them secular, who shyly asked me to sneak in a word for them.The big and the small. For Syria. For refugees to find homes and acceptance. That children would go to sleep with full stomachs and mothers able to love and care for them. I prayed for my friend’s mother who has cancer, and tried to remember all the other friends, most of them secular, who shyly asked me to sneak in a word for them.
Right before we had to leave Arafat, I remembered Mum making me promise to pray for a husband, and so I did.Right before we had to leave Arafat, I remembered Mum making me promise to pray for a husband, and so I did.
My mum, of course, has instructed me to pray for a husband as I make my first hajj, the pilgrimage to Mecca required of every Muslim. Also: the health of her best friend and the release, from jail in Egypt, of the son of my aunt’s maid.My mum, of course, has instructed me to pray for a husband as I make my first hajj, the pilgrimage to Mecca required of every Muslim. Also: the health of her best friend and the release, from jail in Egypt, of the son of my aunt’s maid.
On the second day of the hajj — this year, Sunday, Sept. 11 — pilgrims will clamber onto Mount Arafat to ask for God’s forgiveness and make specific requests by prayer. Muslims believe that a supplication at that place at that time will be answered.On the second day of the hajj — this year, Sunday, Sept. 11 — pilgrims will clamber onto Mount Arafat to ask for God’s forgiveness and make specific requests by prayer. Muslims believe that a supplication at that place at that time will be answered.
Along with Mum’s list, I’ll be praying for the health of a friend’s mother who is fighting cancer, and the continued happiness and health of my family and friends. A few friends who are secular Muslims like me asked that I throw in a word for them, and I will. God, if you are listening, peace would be really nice. I’m not so sure about the husband.Along with Mum’s list, I’ll be praying for the health of a friend’s mother who is fighting cancer, and the continued happiness and health of my family and friends. A few friends who are secular Muslims like me asked that I throw in a word for them, and I will. God, if you are listening, peace would be really nice. I’m not so sure about the husband.
I have been asking all the people I meet in Mecca what they’ll be praying for on Mount Arafat:I have been asking all the people I meet in Mecca what they’ll be praying for on Mount Arafat:
■ Mervat, a 30-year-old cardiologist from Yemen, said she would ask “to go to paradise with my parents” and that her war-torn country might find peace.■ Mervat, a 30-year-old cardiologist from Yemen, said she would ask “to go to paradise with my parents” and that her war-torn country might find peace.
■ Hassan Abbas, a doctor from Nigeria, hopes that his war-torn country might find peace.■ Hassan Abbas, a doctor from Nigeria, hopes that his war-torn country might find peace.
■ Sayida Bakri, 68, seeks for terrorism to be defeated and “for Egypt to stand on its feet” after years of instability.■ Sayida Bakri, 68, seeks for terrorism to be defeated and “for Egypt to stand on its feet” after years of instability.
■ Abd Aziz Hj Johari — who is 18 and from Brunei, and who wore a T-shirt proclaiming, “I Love the Prophet” — shrugged at my question. His mother, Siti Hayun Hj Abdul Qadi, patted him affectionately and said she would ask that her son “become a good boy in the future, a good husband, especially, a good son.”■ Abd Aziz Hj Johari — who is 18 and from Brunei, and who wore a T-shirt proclaiming, “I Love the Prophet” — shrugged at my question. His mother, Siti Hayun Hj Abdul Qadi, patted him affectionately and said she would ask that her son “become a good boy in the future, a good husband, especially, a good son.”
There are no pockets on the ihram that men wear during the hajj — the traditional dress consists of just two white sheets draped around their bodies. And it’s difficult for men and women to carry bulky bags in tight quarters. So the air rights above their heads become valuable personal real estate.There are no pockets on the ihram that men wear during the hajj — the traditional dress consists of just two white sheets draped around their bodies. And it’s difficult for men and women to carry bulky bags in tight quarters. So the air rights above their heads become valuable personal real estate.
I’ve seen people carrying canteens of Zamzam water on their heads; others balancing their prayer mats like hats; and men from Afghanistan, Sudan, Oman and Egypt top themselves with carefully arranged turbans that seem to delicately float above their heads.I’ve seen people carrying canteens of Zamzam water on their heads; others balancing their prayer mats like hats; and men from Afghanistan, Sudan, Oman and Egypt top themselves with carefully arranged turbans that seem to delicately float above their heads.
When I was a little girl and we traveled from Australia to Egypt to visit my mum’s family, I remember the enchanting women with large baskets perched on their heads, walking casually down crowded market streets, their empty arms swaying freely. I see some Palestinian women doing the same thing in the West Bank and East Jerusalem, where I work as a correspondent in The Times’s Jerusalem bureau.When I was a little girl and we traveled from Australia to Egypt to visit my mum’s family, I remember the enchanting women with large baskets perched on their heads, walking casually down crowded market streets, their empty arms swaying freely. I see some Palestinian women doing the same thing in the West Bank and East Jerusalem, where I work as a correspondent in The Times’s Jerusalem bureau.
A good idea knows no borders.A good idea knows no borders.
The hajj is hot and grueling, and pilgrims flock to the Aesra ice cream shop near the Grand Mosque, where there are separate lines for men and women. “After worship, there’s a treat,” said Arar Hafsi, 51, an Algerian pilgrim, giggling.The hajj is hot and grueling, and pilgrims flock to the Aesra ice cream shop near the Grand Mosque, where there are separate lines for men and women. “After worship, there’s a treat,” said Arar Hafsi, 51, an Algerian pilgrim, giggling.
I met one young woman in a niqab, her face and body covered in heavy black cloth, clutching a plastic cup filled with swirls of mango and strawberry. She said, laughing, that maybe she had one after every prayer — that’s five times a day.I met one young woman in a niqab, her face and body covered in heavy black cloth, clutching a plastic cup filled with swirls of mango and strawberry. She said, laughing, that maybe she had one after every prayer — that’s five times a day.
“Is it good?” I asked. “Well,” she said, “it’s all there is.”“Is it good?” I asked. “Well,” she said, “it’s all there is.”
I know you want to know, so: A woman wearing a niqab eats ice cream by filling the spoon, then raising her veil just a bit and sticking the spoon in her mouth.I know you want to know, so: A woman wearing a niqab eats ice cream by filling the spoon, then raising her veil just a bit and sticking the spoon in her mouth.
Qasim, 16, a worker I interviewed at the shop, gave free cups to me and Abdul-Rahman, the Saudi minder who follows me everywhere under the government’s rules for journalists covering the hajj. The ice cream tasted good. Also: It’s all there is.Qasim, 16, a worker I interviewed at the shop, gave free cups to me and Abdul-Rahman, the Saudi minder who follows me everywhere under the government’s rules for journalists covering the hajj. The ice cream tasted good. Also: It’s all there is.
So as I made my first hajj, joining millions of Muslims from around the world on the annual pilgrimage to our holiest places, I did not have the antibiotics or disinfectant gel my family had insisted I carry to ward off what we call “the hajj flu.” I did not have a proper head scarf or even a prayer mat.So as I made my first hajj, joining millions of Muslims from around the world on the annual pilgrimage to our holiest places, I did not have the antibiotics or disinfectant gel my family had insisted I carry to ward off what we call “the hajj flu.” I did not have a proper head scarf or even a prayer mat.
As the call to prayer sounded, I stood in a line of women on the street leading to the Grand Mosque and realized I would have no clean place to put my head during the full prostrations we make in a symbolic act of submission to God. I figured, never mind, this is the hajj, once in a lifetime. Then the woman standing next to me said, “I’ve made space for you.” We had to pray very close together, our heads were touching on that tiny mat.As the call to prayer sounded, I stood in a line of women on the street leading to the Grand Mosque and realized I would have no clean place to put my head during the full prostrations we make in a symbolic act of submission to God. I figured, never mind, this is the hajj, once in a lifetime. Then the woman standing next to me said, “I’ve made space for you.” We had to pray very close together, our heads were touching on that tiny mat.
Afterward, I thanked her. Her name is Samira, and she is a professor in Algeria. She kissed me on the cheek and said that was the way a Muslim should behave, and that I was her sister.Afterward, I thanked her. Her name is Samira, and she is a professor in Algeria. She kissed me on the cheek and said that was the way a Muslim should behave, and that I was her sister.
One of the main hajj rituals is to walk seven times around the Kaaba, Islam’s holiest site. My brother and sister, who did the hajj years ago, had told me about the pigeons that circle, seemingly in sync with the pilgrims, overhead. A sign from God? Perhaps, but helped along by the women selling bird feed to people who flung it joyously into the air around the Grand Mosque.One of the main hajj rituals is to walk seven times around the Kaaba, Islam’s holiest site. My brother and sister, who did the hajj years ago, had told me about the pigeons that circle, seemingly in sync with the pilgrims, overhead. A sign from God? Perhaps, but helped along by the women selling bird feed to people who flung it joyously into the air around the Grand Mosque.
A group of Nigerian teenagers stood in a corner, calling out “Zamzam, Zamzam, Zamzam!” and passing out plastic cups of water. Zamzam is a well located within the Haram, the mosque that surrounds the Kaaba, Islam’s holiest site. Muslims believe God made it bubble up as the second wife of Ibrahim (Abraham in the Judeo-Christian bible), tried to soothe her thirsting child. A half-liter bottle sells for $4.95 on the internet.A group of Nigerian teenagers stood in a corner, calling out “Zamzam, Zamzam, Zamzam!” and passing out plastic cups of water. Zamzam is a well located within the Haram, the mosque that surrounds the Kaaba, Islam’s holiest site. Muslims believe God made it bubble up as the second wife of Ibrahim (Abraham in the Judeo-Christian bible), tried to soothe her thirsting child. A half-liter bottle sells for $4.95 on the internet.
I was spooked after reading an article saying Zamzam water had high levels of arsenic. But in the heat and exhaustion of the hajj, it tasted refreshing. I even stopped in front of an Egyptian man spraying people’s faces with the water as a small good deed — he said he did the same during the 2011 uprisings in Cairo. But I was worried when I saw pilgrims returning their empty cups to the Nigerians — this is how hajj flu spreads!I was spooked after reading an article saying Zamzam water had high levels of arsenic. But in the heat and exhaustion of the hajj, it tasted refreshing. I even stopped in front of an Egyptian man spraying people’s faces with the water as a small good deed — he said he did the same during the 2011 uprisings in Cairo. But I was worried when I saw pilgrims returning their empty cups to the Nigerians — this is how hajj flu spreads!
My favorite passage of “The Autobiography of Malcolm X” was when he described the pilgrims being of all races and colors. It’s still like that.My favorite passage of “The Autobiography of Malcolm X” was when he described the pilgrims being of all races and colors. It’s still like that.
A Chinese woman showed me her Mandarin Quran. I saw women from Uzbekistan who had their national flag sewn onto their head scarves, and men with “Kurdistan” emblazoned on their jackets. There were Pakistanis with beards dyed a cartoonish red, and one guy, who knows from where, in a gold sequined hat. He looked fabulous.A Chinese woman showed me her Mandarin Quran. I saw women from Uzbekistan who had their national flag sewn onto their head scarves, and men with “Kurdistan” emblazoned on their jackets. There were Pakistanis with beards dyed a cartoonish red, and one guy, who knows from where, in a gold sequined hat. He looked fabulous.
It reminded me of the little mosque of my childhood in multicultural Canberra, Australia. I grew up thinking it was normal to worship next to Muslims from Bosnia and Vietnam, Afghanistan and Jordan.It reminded me of the little mosque of my childhood in multicultural Canberra, Australia. I grew up thinking it was normal to worship next to Muslims from Bosnia and Vietnam, Afghanistan and Jordan.
Walking around the Kaaba was like Canberra, writ large. There was something very incredible and lovely about being a tiny little human among tens of thousands of other humans, saying the same prayers and doing the same rituals.Walking around the Kaaba was like Canberra, writ large. There was something very incredible and lovely about being a tiny little human among tens of thousands of other humans, saying the same prayers and doing the same rituals.