Michel Richard, Acclaimed Chef at Citronelle, Dies at 68

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/16/dining/michel-richard-dead.html

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Michel Richard, a French-born chef whose French-Californian hybrid Citrus was one of the top restaurants in Los Angeles for more than a decade, and who gave Washington a major claim to be a serious dining city after he opened Citronelle there in 1993, died on Saturday in Washington. He was 68.

The cause was complications of a stroke, said Mel Davis, his longtime publicist.

Mr. Richard (pronounced ree-SHAR), a pastry chef by training, was an adventurous, jovial chef, fond of experimentation and open to the myriad culinary influences of his adopted country.

He loved to cook, to please, to amuse and to astonish. His many signature dishes included “begula” (a play on “beluga”), a trick caviar made from Israeli couscous cooked in squid ink and served in a tin. His trompe l’oeil “lemon egg-ceptional” fooled diners by presenting them with an eggshell made of white chocolate encasing a “yolk” made of lemon meringue. On one occasion, at Citronelle, he served an entire dessert plate made to resemble breakfast foods: French toast with butter, a fried egg, a strip of bacon.

“I want to create a festive feeling,” he told The Washington Post in 1998. “I want people to be surprised, to be happy. It doesn’t take a genius to do this. Just someone like me.”

His sense of play rested on a solid foundation in French classical technique, although he was self-taught as a savory chef. In 2007, the James Beard Foundation named him outstanding chef of the year.

Michel Louis-Marie Richard was born on March 7, 1948, in Pabu, Brittany. His laborer father, André, seeking construction work, moved the family to the Ardennes region. An abusive drunk, he left when Michel was 6. Michel’s mother, Muguette, supported the family, barely, by working in a factory.

Michel found his vocation early, cooking for the family while still a child. When he was 9, a friend took Michel on a visit to his parents’ restaurant. “When we opened the back door of the restaurant and I entered the kitchen, it was for me paradise,” he told The Washington Post in 2006. “I helped the pastry chef to make a little tart. I looked into the dining room and saw these elegant people having a good time. I fell in love with it all.”

At 14, he signed on as an apprentice with a baker in Reims, France, where he showed early signs of his inventive nature. “I began doing dinners at night in the pastry shop,” he told The New York Times in 2013. “You could say they were the first pop-ups.”

He satisfied his military obligation by serving as a cook in the Army and then found work at a mediocre pastry shop in Paris. His luck turned when he was hired by the famed caterer and patissier Gaston Lenôtre, who sent him to New York in 1974 to open an American outpost, the Château France.

The venture failed after three years, but Mr. Richard decided to stay, traveling to Santa Fe, N.M., to run the French Pastry Shop in La Fonda Hotel. In 1977 he opened a pastry shop on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles, where he began experimenting with savory dishes on the side as he expanded the menu.

With Citrus, he came into his own. The restaurant, which opened in 1987, offered a French interpretation of the local cuisine that Mr. Richard sometimes described as California Provençal. Influenced by nouvelle cuisine, he cut back on butter, cream and heavy sauces. Making use of his pastry training, he delighted the eye with fanciful forms and striking color combinations.

Dishes like crab coleslaw and fried shrimp wrapped in filaments of shredded phyllo pastry became overnight stars, copied by chefs throughout the United States. Critics were dazzled by his oyster custard in spinach sauce, and by a “lasagna” of escargots and fried parsley. “Citrus has captured the mood of Los Angeles right now, and it has thereby captured the city’s imagination,” Ruth Reichl wrote in her review of the restaurant for The Los Angeles Times.

The restaurant closed in 2001.

In 1997 Mr. Richard sold half his interest in Citrus to the hotel management company Meristar, his partner in the first Citronelle, which opened in the Santa Barbara Inn Hotel in 1989. Subsequent versions of Citronelle opened in Baltimore, Tokyo and Carmel, Calif.

His home base was the Citronelle in Washington, in the Latham Hotel in the Georgetown neighborhood. It became the city’s premier restaurant virtually overnight, a shooting star in a city long dominated by old-line steakhouses and embassy kitchens. It closed in 2012 after its building developed structural problems.

In 2007 Mr. Richard opened Central Michel Richard on Pennsylvania Avenue, six blocks from the White House. Described on its website as a “modern American bistro with a French twist,” it was named the best new restaurant in the United States by the James Beard Foundation the next year.

Mr. Richard, who lived in Potomac, Md., returned to New York to open Villard Michel Richard in the Villard Houses on Madison Avenue, formerly home to Gilt and Le Cirque 2000, in 2013. It was greeted with a punishing review by Pete Wells in The New York Times and closed in less than a year, although a bakery in the same building, Pomme Palais, remains open.

Mr. Richard’s first two marriages ended in divorce. He is survived by his wife, the former Laurence Retourné; five sons, Michael, Sebastien, Christophe, Luc and Clement; and a daughter, Christelle Richard.

He was the author of “Richard’s Home Cooking with a French Accent” (1993) and “Sweet Magic: Easy Recipes for Delectable Desserts” (2010), but the title that best expressed his philosophy was “Happy in the Kitchen: The Craft of Cooking, the Art of Eating” (2006).

“The way we should represent France is to make the food fun, charming, good, not pretentious,” Mr. Richard told The Times. “It should be like Renoir, Manet.”