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| Paris Partygoers, Bored and Short on Cash, Turn Suburbs Into Movable Fête | Paris Partygoers, Bored and Short on Cash, Turn Suburbs Into Movable Fête |
| (about 5 hours later) | |
| MONTREUIL, France — In a darkened makeshift theater in a former movie studio, dozens of 20-somethings recently sipped beer from plastic cups as they watched a film about their shared passion: the rise of suburban dance parties. | MONTREUIL, France — In a darkened makeshift theater in a former movie studio, dozens of 20-somethings recently sipped beer from plastic cups as they watched a film about their shared passion: the rise of suburban dance parties. |
| Even before the projector stopped and the film’s soundtrack ended, a rising bass line of techno music drove the crowd toward an expansive dance floor, where a full-fledged party broke out at Espace Albatros, an arts center in Montreuil, a suburb east of Paris. | Even before the projector stopped and the film’s soundtrack ended, a rising bass line of techno music drove the crowd toward an expansive dance floor, where a full-fledged party broke out at Espace Albatros, an arts center in Montreuil, a suburb east of Paris. |
| Though most major European cities have lively urban party scenes — Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg in Berlin and Leidseplein in Amsterdam — Paris has witnessed much of its night life decamp to the socially and historically estranged suburbs, like Montreuil. | Though most major European cities have lively urban party scenes — Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg in Berlin and Leidseplein in Amsterdam — Paris has witnessed much of its night life decamp to the socially and historically estranged suburbs, like Montreuil. |
| There, a new generation of partygoers have homed in on local communities, establishing a cheaper, more energetic alternative to the mainstream urban dance clubs. | There, a new generation of partygoers have homed in on local communities, establishing a cheaper, more energetic alternative to the mainstream urban dance clubs. |
| “They’ve been bored with the parties that used to be in Paris,” said Leny Decret, a 26-year-old junior manager at a digital advertising agency. He is a co-founder of Tangible Utopia, a music collective that produced the documentary film shown at Espace Albatros. | “They’ve been bored with the parties that used to be in Paris,” said Leny Decret, a 26-year-old junior manager at a digital advertising agency. He is a co-founder of Tangible Utopia, a music collective that produced the documentary film shown at Espace Albatros. |
| Mr. Decret’s parents came to watch the documentary and told him the whole phenomenon had a hippie vibe, he said. | Mr. Decret’s parents came to watch the documentary and told him the whole phenomenon had a hippie vibe, he said. |
| “Maybe it’s this thing about coming together for real, sharing a moment,” he said. | “Maybe it’s this thing about coming together for real, sharing a moment,” he said. |
| The shift of the dance party scene from the city to the outskirts started around 2009, when a headline in Le Monde called Paris the “European capital of boredom.” | The shift of the dance party scene from the city to the outskirts started around 2009, when a headline in Le Monde called Paris the “European capital of boredom.” |
| In an effort to revive the city’s after-dark appeal, Eric Labbé, a record-store owner turned dance-club promoter, started an online petition to urge city authorities to ease strict noise ordinances and improve late-night public transportation. His effort garnered 16,000 signatures, but it did little to loosen public restrictions. | In an effort to revive the city’s after-dark appeal, Eric Labbé, a record-store owner turned dance-club promoter, started an online petition to urge city authorities to ease strict noise ordinances and improve late-night public transportation. His effort garnered 16,000 signatures, but it did little to loosen public restrictions. |
| So young and mostly middle-class Parisians banded together to establish informal collectives of musicians and other artistic types to perform regularly at venues in suburbs, with immigrant and working-class histories. | So young and mostly middle-class Parisians banded together to establish informal collectives of musicians and other artistic types to perform regularly at venues in suburbs, with immigrant and working-class histories. |
| “There’s an adventurous side to going beyond the périphérique to party,” said Mr. Labbé, who manages public relations for the Zig Zag club in the Eighth Arrondissement of Paris, referring to the ring road that separates the French capital from its suburbs. | “There’s an adventurous side to going beyond the périphérique to party,” said Mr. Labbé, who manages public relations for the Zig Zag club in the Eighth Arrondissement of Paris, referring to the ring road that separates the French capital from its suburbs. |
| Organizers of these suburban dance-music festivals have created a more open, free-spirited milieu than the exclusive — and expensive — club scene in Paris. | Organizers of these suburban dance-music festivals have created a more open, free-spirited milieu than the exclusive — and expensive — club scene in Paris. |
| “It’s different,” Armand Poulhen, a 24-year-old graduate student, said during a recent daytime party in Montreuil. “People don’t judge here,” he added. | “It’s different,” Armand Poulhen, a 24-year-old graduate student, said during a recent daytime party in Montreuil. “People don’t judge here,” he added. |
| The groovy beats, flashy lights and abundance of balloons contribute to the block-party vibe. | The groovy beats, flashy lights and abundance of balloons contribute to the block-party vibe. |
| The dance parties are held mostly on weekends, and many of the events during the spring and summer months are held outside and in the daytime. Entrance fees are usually less than the 20 euros, or about $22, that clubs in Paris charge, and some parties are free. | The dance parties are held mostly on weekends, and many of the events during the spring and summer months are held outside and in the daytime. Entrance fees are usually less than the 20 euros, or about $22, that clubs in Paris charge, and some parties are free. |
| The events on the outskirts of Paris draw young urbanites to neighborhoods they would not normally visit, and some partygoers say the sense of adventure is part of the appeal. | The events on the outskirts of Paris draw young urbanites to neighborhoods they would not normally visit, and some partygoers say the sense of adventure is part of the appeal. |
| At Espace Albatros, the arts center in Montreuil, Nicolas Boivin, a 24-year-old who works in advertising, said his curiosity about places outside the city had him on the lookout for parties in the suburbs, away from the Parisian “standard.” | At Espace Albatros, the arts center in Montreuil, Nicolas Boivin, a 24-year-old who works in advertising, said his curiosity about places outside the city had him on the lookout for parties in the suburbs, away from the Parisian “standard.” |
| The dance parties emerge as iridescent bubbles of sound and energy that burn bright on nondescript streets of otherwise neglected neighborhoods outside Paris. | The dance parties emerge as iridescent bubbles of sound and energy that burn bright on nondescript streets of otherwise neglected neighborhoods outside Paris. |
| One arts center and occasional club, 6B, in a former industrial building in St.-Denis, north of Paris, draws well-heeled electronic music fans to a neighborhood where unemployment has been nearly 20 percent, twice the national rate. | One arts center and occasional club, 6B, in a former industrial building in St.-Denis, north of Paris, draws well-heeled electronic music fans to a neighborhood where unemployment has been nearly 20 percent, twice the national rate. |
| “Walking out of the 6B, that’s a slap in the face,” said Benedetta Bertella, 31, half of a husband-and-wife D.J. team that tours parties in the suburbs. She describes homeless camps just outside some of the clubs where she plays, adding, “You think, damn, we’re partying here.” | “Walking out of the 6B, that’s a slap in the face,” said Benedetta Bertella, 31, half of a husband-and-wife D.J. team that tours parties in the suburbs. She describes homeless camps just outside some of the clubs where she plays, adding, “You think, damn, we’re partying here.” |
| Some who live in the communities that host these dance parties view the Parisian partygoers as intruders. | Some who live in the communities that host these dance parties view the Parisian partygoers as intruders. |
| Several noise complaints were filed in 2015 with local authorities, and a few residents of L’Île-St.-Denis, across the Seine from 6B, filed an online complaint to the mayor and the owner of the arts center. | Several noise complaints were filed in 2015 with local authorities, and a few residents of L’Île-St.-Denis, across the Seine from 6B, filed an online complaint to the mayor and the owner of the arts center. |
| On a blog hosted by residents, a neighbor identified as Eric complained about “Parisian partygoers who come ruining our nights because people elsewhere don’t want their parties.” | |
| But others, like Mady Senga-Remoué, 35, who lives near 6B, said the changes were overwhelmingly perceived as having a positive influence on the neighborhood. The space, she emphasized, acted as a community center and encouraged activities. | But others, like Mady Senga-Remoué, 35, who lives near 6B, said the changes were overwhelmingly perceived as having a positive influence on the neighborhood. The space, she emphasized, acted as a community center and encouraged activities. |
| “It’s like a hive,” said Ms. Senga-Remoué, who added that she and some of the neighbors occasionally attended the parties. | “It’s like a hive,” said Ms. Senga-Remoué, who added that she and some of the neighbors occasionally attended the parties. |
| Sofiane Meza, 37, who runs a bar and tobacco shop in L’Île-St.-Denis, said the party scene brought a bourgeois-bohemian touch to the neighborhood. | |
| “Every time there’s a party at the 6B, I end up with empty stocks of additive-free tobacco,” he said with a smile, adding, “It makes for a few more clients.” | |
| Mr. Meza said the noise did not bother him. | Mr. Meza said the noise did not bother him. |
| Leaning on the bar, Rachid Dendoume, a 48-year-old foreman living nearby, strongly disagreed. “There’s no respect,” he said. “It’s noise pollution. There are too many noise issues here already.” | |
| But Mr. Dendoume said that the noise was the main issue and that he did not mind having Parisians partying in his neighborhood. “It brings a different population,” he said. | But Mr. Dendoume said that the noise was the main issue and that he did not mind having Parisians partying in his neighborhood. “It brings a different population,” he said. |
| Béatrice Néhémie, a private secretary to the mayor of St.-Denis, said not all activities offered by 6B attracted the same audience, with locals taking part in daily activities and workshops. | Béatrice Néhémie, a private secretary to the mayor of St.-Denis, said not all activities offered by 6B attracted the same audience, with locals taking part in daily activities and workshops. |
| The music played at parties may keep more locals from attending those events. “It’s quite edgy,” Ms. Néhémie said. “It targets a specific audience.” | The music played at parties may keep more locals from attending those events. “It’s quite edgy,” Ms. Néhémie said. “It targets a specific audience.” |
| Some of the neighborhoods that host parties have undergone changes. In the last decades, Parisians fleeing expensive rents have moved to the suburbs, resulting in cutting-edge galleries, microbreweries and arts centers opening far from Haussmannian avenues. How much this has affected those living in the suburbs is not clear, although some sociologists have pointed to growing gentrification in specific neighborhoods, like in Montreuil. In 2013, the French newspaper Libération highlighted some of the inhabitants’ concerns over rising housing prices. | Some of the neighborhoods that host parties have undergone changes. In the last decades, Parisians fleeing expensive rents have moved to the suburbs, resulting in cutting-edge galleries, microbreweries and arts centers opening far from Haussmannian avenues. How much this has affected those living in the suburbs is not clear, although some sociologists have pointed to growing gentrification in specific neighborhoods, like in Montreuil. In 2013, the French newspaper Libération highlighted some of the inhabitants’ concerns over rising housing prices. |
| Parties may now be added to the list. Though some residents complain, local officials see opportunities to put a more attractive face on their towns and have a diverse cultural agenda. A recent weekend of events in Bobigny, northwest of Paris, took place on city-owned land. | Parties may now be added to the list. Though some residents complain, local officials see opportunities to put a more attractive face on their towns and have a diverse cultural agenda. A recent weekend of events in Bobigny, northwest of Paris, took place on city-owned land. |
| In Nanterre, La Ferme du Bonheur, or the Farm of Happiness, a wooden shack that has hosted parties organized by La Mamie’s, a collective, is featured on the City Hall’s website, although it was built illegally on public ground. | In Nanterre, La Ferme du Bonheur, or the Farm of Happiness, a wooden shack that has hosted parties organized by La Mamie’s, a collective, is featured on the City Hall’s website, although it was built illegally on public ground. |
| The City of Paris, which tries to coordinate with adjacent municipalities, has tried to encourage the area’s rise as a techno-music destination. | The City of Paris, which tries to coordinate with adjacent municipalities, has tried to encourage the area’s rise as a techno-music destination. |
| In central Paris, parks are opening all night this summer. | In central Paris, parks are opening all night this summer. |
| A Night Council, where bar and club owners meet with the authorities twice a year, has been started at City Hall. | A Night Council, where bar and club owners meet with the authorities twice a year, has been started at City Hall. |
| Its “night life counselor,” Frédéric Hocquard, sees it as part of his job to encourage the city to loosen up and have a little fun. | Its “night life counselor,” Frédéric Hocquard, sees it as part of his job to encourage the city to loosen up and have a little fun. |
| “The City of Paris may not have developed or promoted its night life enough,” he said. | “The City of Paris may not have developed or promoted its night life enough,” he said. |
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