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Denis Dubourdieu, Who Elevated Bordeaux White Wines, Dies at 67 Denis Dubourdieu, Who Elevated Bordeaux White Wines, Dies at 67
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Denis Dubourdieu, a scientist, vineyard owner and winemaker who modernized the white wines of Bordeaux and, as a professor of enology at the University of Bordeaux, educated a generation of French vineyard managers, died on Tuesday in Bordeaux. He was 67.Denis Dubourdieu, a scientist, vineyard owner and winemaker who modernized the white wines of Bordeaux and, as a professor of enology at the University of Bordeaux, educated a generation of French vineyard managers, died on Tuesday in Bordeaux. He was 67.
The cause was brain cancer, his son Jean-Jacques said.The cause was brain cancer, his son Jean-Jacques said.
Mr. Dubourdieu (pronounced due-boor-DYU), often referred to in the French news media as the pope of white wine, or the professor of Bordeaux, owned and managed several estates in Bordeaux, where his family has made wine since the late 18th century.Mr. Dubourdieu (pronounced due-boor-DYU), often referred to in the French news media as the pope of white wine, or the professor of Bordeaux, owned and managed several estates in Bordeaux, where his family has made wine since the late 18th century.
He was best known, however, for his research on wine chemistry and vinification, and his forward-looking techniques for making a new style of white Bordeaux, previously an afterthought to the region’s great reds that was too often heavy and dull.He was best known, however, for his research on wine chemistry and vinification, and his forward-looking techniques for making a new style of white Bordeaux, previously an afterthought to the region’s great reds that was too often heavy and dull.
“Rejecting fashion and fads, he argued vehemently for finesse, elegance and freshness in Bordeaux wines,” the magazine Le Point wrote in an appreciation after his death. His approach influenced winemakers throughout Bordeaux and won the admiration of critics around the world.“Rejecting fashion and fads, he argued vehemently for finesse, elegance and freshness in Bordeaux wines,” the magazine Le Point wrote in an appreciation after his death. His approach influenced winemakers throughout Bordeaux and won the admiration of critics around the world.
“The old days of insipid, tasteless, technically correct but uninteresting dry white wines from Bordeaux have ended,” the critic Robert M. Parker wrote in the 1990s. “Denis Dubourdieu is the man who profoundly changed white winemaking in this region.”“The old days of insipid, tasteless, technically correct but uninteresting dry white wines from Bordeaux have ended,” the critic Robert M. Parker wrote in the 1990s. “Denis Dubourdieu is the man who profoundly changed white winemaking in this region.”
Denis Dubourdieu was born on July 1, 1949, in Barsac, France, and grew up on the family wine estate, Château Doisy-Daëne, which his paternal grandfather had bought in 1924.Denis Dubourdieu was born on July 1, 1949, in Barsac, France, and grew up on the family wine estate, Château Doisy-Daëne, which his paternal grandfather had bought in 1924.
After studying agronomy and economics, he enrolled in the University of Bordeaux, where he earned a doctorate in 1978 with a dissertation on the molecular structure of grapes affected by botrytis, a fungus responsible for the “noble rot” that makes possible the sweet, nectarlike wines of Barsac and Sauternes.After studying agronomy and economics, he enrolled in the University of Bordeaux, where he earned a doctorate in 1978 with a dissertation on the molecular structure of grapes affected by botrytis, a fungus responsible for the “noble rot” that makes possible the sweet, nectarlike wines of Barsac and Sauternes.
He received a second doctorate in 1982, writing a dissertation on the filtering and clarifying of dessert wines like Sauternes, and in 1987 he was named a professor of enology at the university.He received a second doctorate in 1982, writing a dissertation on the filtering and clarifying of dessert wines like Sauternes, and in 1987 he was named a professor of enology at the university.
His many scientific papers explored, among other topics, the causes of premature oxidation in red and white wines and the origin of the green, vegetal flavor prominent in underripe grapes. With the enologist Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon and others, he revised and updated the two-volume “Handbook of Enology,” a standard text in the field.His many scientific papers explored, among other topics, the causes of premature oxidation in red and white wines and the origin of the green, vegetal flavor prominent in underripe grapes. With the enologist Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon and others, he revised and updated the two-volume “Handbook of Enology,” a standard text in the field.
In 2009, he played a leading role in creating the Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences at the University of Bordeaux, a multidisciplinary research center that works with wine producers to introduce the latest technology and winemaking techniques.In 2009, he played a leading role in creating the Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences at the University of Bordeaux, a multidisciplinary research center that works with wine producers to introduce the latest technology and winemaking techniques.
Mr. Dubourdieu’s life as a researcher took a new turn in 1976 when his wife, the former Florence David, inherited Château Reynon in Béguey, whose wines carry the designation Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux.Mr. Dubourdieu’s life as a researcher took a new turn in 1976 when his wife, the former Florence David, inherited Château Reynon in Béguey, whose wines carry the designation Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux.
The chateau, where he lived with his family for the rest of his life, became a testing ground for his ideas, which included aging wine in new oak barrels and extending the time that the grape skins remained in contact with the wine. He was an early advocate of organic winemaking and in recent years had explored new ways of adapting winemaking to climate change.The chateau, where he lived with his family for the rest of his life, became a testing ground for his ideas, which included aging wine in new oak barrels and extending the time that the grape skins remained in contact with the wine. He was an early advocate of organic winemaking and in recent years had explored new ways of adapting winemaking to climate change.
He produced both red and white wines on several other estates that he later managed with his wife and two sons, Jean-Jacques and Fabrice: Clos Floridene and Château Haura in Graves and Château Cantegril in Barsac. In 2000 he took over the management of Château Doisy-Daëne from his father, Pierre, who survives him. In addition to his wife and sons, he is also survived by a granddaughter.He produced both red and white wines on several other estates that he later managed with his wife and two sons, Jean-Jacques and Fabrice: Clos Floridene and Château Haura in Graves and Château Cantegril in Barsac. In 2000 he took over the management of Château Doisy-Daëne from his father, Pierre, who survives him. In addition to his wife and sons, he is also survived by a granddaughter.
In the late 1980s, Mr. Dubourdieu branched out into a consulting career that took him to the top estates in Bordeaux, including Cheval Blanc and Yquem. Initially he concentrated on white wines, but in 1998, at the invitation of a former student, Véronique Sanders, the director of Château Haut-Bailly in Bordeaux, he turned his attention to red wines, opening a new chapter in his career.In the late 1980s, Mr. Dubourdieu branched out into a consulting career that took him to the top estates in Bordeaux, including Cheval Blanc and Yquem. Initially he concentrated on white wines, but in 1998, at the invitation of a former student, Véronique Sanders, the director of Château Haut-Bailly in Bordeaux, he turned his attention to red wines, opening a new chapter in his career.
He advised dozens of estates in Bordeaux, including Château Margaux and Château de Rayne-Vigneau, as well as prominent estates and winemakers elsewhere in France and around the world.He advised dozens of estates in Bordeaux, including Château Margaux and Château de Rayne-Vigneau, as well as prominent estates and winemakers elsewhere in France and around the world.
This year he was made a knight of the Legion of Honor for his contributions to French wine. He was the enology adviser to the most recent edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine.This year he was made a knight of the Legion of Honor for his contributions to French wine. He was the enology adviser to the most recent edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine.
Mr. Dubourdieu was an enemy of pretense and impatient with the traditional secretiveness of the Bordeaux wine trade. Accessible, enthusiastic and keen to share information, he embodied the qualities that he championed in his wines.Mr. Dubourdieu was an enemy of pretense and impatient with the traditional secretiveness of the Bordeaux wine trade. Accessible, enthusiastic and keen to share information, he embodied the qualities that he championed in his wines.
“I like wines that are sensitive and poetic,” he told Gilles Berdin, the author of “Conversations Over a Bottle with Denis Dubourdieu” (2012). “They are the opposite of bragging-rights wines, the ones that basically are made to flatter the egos of the producers and even more so of the buyers.” “I like wines that are sensitive and poetic,” he told Gilles Berdin, the author of “Conversations Over a Bottle With Denis Dubourdieu” (2012). “They are the opposite of bragging-rights wines, the ones that basically are made to flatter the egos of the producers and even more so of the buyers.”