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| James Monroe’s Home May Not Have Been So Humble After All | James Monroe’s Home May Not Have Been So Humble After All |
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| CHARLOTTESVILLE, Va. — For decades, tour guides led visitors through a modest two-room cottage on the outskirts of this city, recounting the accomplishments of James Monroe, the country’s fifth president, and highlighting details of life at Highland, the homestead where he lived with his wife, Elizabeth Kortright Monroe, from 1799 to 1823. | CHARLOTTESVILLE, Va. — For decades, tour guides led visitors through a modest two-room cottage on the outskirts of this city, recounting the accomplishments of James Monroe, the country’s fifth president, and highlighting details of life at Highland, the homestead where he lived with his wife, Elizabeth Kortright Monroe, from 1799 to 1823. |
| But that chapter of the home’s history came to an abrupt and slightly embarrassing end last month when the estate’s director revealed what some recent explorations turned up at the site: a fieldstone foundation for a much larger house with a footprint of approximately 74 feet by 30 feet. The humble house that tourists had been touring was, in fact, merely a guesthouse — and Monroe’s actual home, a mansion, had probably burned down after he sold the property. | But that chapter of the home’s history came to an abrupt and slightly embarrassing end last month when the estate’s director revealed what some recent explorations turned up at the site: a fieldstone foundation for a much larger house with a footprint of approximately 74 feet by 30 feet. The humble house that tourists had been touring was, in fact, merely a guesthouse — and Monroe’s actual home, a mansion, had probably burned down after he sold the property. |
| “These exceptionally well-preserved remains are just beneath the ground,” said Sara Bon-Harper, the executive director of Highland. “This finding represents a breakthrough in how the nation understands Monroe and how he lived.” | “These exceptionally well-preserved remains are just beneath the ground,” said Sara Bon-Harper, the executive director of Highland. “This finding represents a breakthrough in how the nation understands Monroe and how he lived.” |
| The exploration of the property was spurred in part by research into primary documents, and in part by a hunch shared by several experts in the rich 18th-century history of this region. “Whenever I was there, I had an uncomfortable feeling,” said Brian Broadus, a local preservation architect. “He lived in Paris — he’s not the guy who’s going to have a plain house.” | The exploration of the property was spurred in part by research into primary documents, and in part by a hunch shared by several experts in the rich 18th-century history of this region. “Whenever I was there, I had an uncomfortable feeling,” said Brian Broadus, a local preservation architect. “He lived in Paris — he’s not the guy who’s going to have a plain house.” |
| Confusion over the estate’s buildings may have originated in the 1900s, when a later owner opened the estate as a tourist attraction. How historians became convinced that a two-room cottage could have been a president’s home is more complicated. | Confusion over the estate’s buildings may have originated in the 1900s, when a later owner opened the estate as a tourist attraction. How historians became convinced that a two-room cottage could have been a president’s home is more complicated. |
| Monroe had a less lavish upbringing than some of his peers, said Ms. Bon-Harper, and he called Highland his “cabin-castle.” | Monroe had a less lavish upbringing than some of his peers, said Ms. Bon-Harper, and he called Highland his “cabin-castle.” |
| “What we saw before us, as well as his modest prose about his ‘cabin-castle’ — we bought it,” Ms. Bon-Harper said. “We bought it for over a century.” | “What we saw before us, as well as his modest prose about his ‘cabin-castle’ — we bought it,” Ms. Bon-Harper said. “We bought it for over a century.” |
| But after examining some insurance sketches and old newspaper clippings, which hinted at a larger house, she built a case to have scientists delve into the property’s history. | |
| In 2014, she hired Rivanna Archaeological Services to explore the site, and one of the group’s principals, Benjamin P. Ford, began probing the ground for traces of Monroe’s mansion. Before long, Mr. Ford said, the crew found what it was looking for. | In 2014, she hired Rivanna Archaeological Services to explore the site, and one of the group’s principals, Benjamin P. Ford, began probing the ground for traces of Monroe’s mansion. Before long, Mr. Ford said, the crew found what it was looking for. |
| “Our shovel-testing identified significant architectural debris — broken pieces of window pane glass, nails, mortar, brick — artifacts that suggested that a structure might be in this location,” he said. | “Our shovel-testing identified significant architectural debris — broken pieces of window pane glass, nails, mortar, brick — artifacts that suggested that a structure might be in this location,” he said. |
| Architectural experts pointed out that some features of the surviving cottage appeared to have been built after the Monroes moved in. Last winter, studies of the cottage’s framing showed that the wood dated from around 1818, which squares with a letter Monroe wrote during his first term as president about building a guesthouse. | Architectural experts pointed out that some features of the surviving cottage appeared to have been built after the Monroes moved in. Last winter, studies of the cottage’s framing showed that the wood dated from around 1818, which squares with a letter Monroe wrote during his first term as president about building a guesthouse. |
| “One of the great messages here is the application of science to history,” said Dan Jordan, a consultant on historic sites and the former director of Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s home. | “One of the great messages here is the application of science to history,” said Dan Jordan, a consultant on historic sites and the former director of Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s home. |
| Highland has long been a runner-up to Monticello, which is two miles away, and gets about one-tenth of its neighbor’s traffic, according to Ms. Bon-Harper. | Highland has long been a runner-up to Monticello, which is two miles away, and gets about one-tenth of its neighbor’s traffic, according to Ms. Bon-Harper. |
| “Monticello has been the big dog that gets all the attention,” said Leni Sorensen, a local expert in historical crafts. | “Monticello has been the big dog that gets all the attention,” said Leni Sorensen, a local expert in historical crafts. |
| It also gets more money. Monticello has a full-time archaeology department as part of its $27 million budget. Until this year, Highland, which is owned by the College of William & Mary, Monroe’s alma mater, was expected to be self-sustaining on a budget of just over $1 million, Ms. Bon-Harper said. Until Ms. Bon-Harper arrived in 2012 with a mandate to conduct research, there were just two full-time employees. | It also gets more money. Monticello has a full-time archaeology department as part of its $27 million budget. Until this year, Highland, which is owned by the College of William & Mary, Monroe’s alma mater, was expected to be self-sustaining on a budget of just over $1 million, Ms. Bon-Harper said. Until Ms. Bon-Harper arrived in 2012 with a mandate to conduct research, there were just two full-time employees. |
| It is no accident that the presidential estates are neighbors. Monroe was lured to the area by Jefferson, his mentor, “to create a society to our taste” in a 1786 letter. | It is no accident that the presidential estates are neighbors. Monroe was lured to the area by Jefferson, his mentor, “to create a society to our taste” in a 1786 letter. |
| Monroe bought the land in 1793. Whether he named it Highland for its foothills location, his Scottish ancestry or some other reason is not known, Ms. Bon-Harper said. He held on to it until 1826, by which time he had moved to Oak Hill, a mansion in Loudoun County, Va., near Washington. Highland changed hands several times before it was donated to the College of William & Mary in 1974. | Monroe bought the land in 1793. Whether he named it Highland for its foothills location, his Scottish ancestry or some other reason is not known, Ms. Bon-Harper said. He held on to it until 1826, by which time he had moved to Oak Hill, a mansion in Loudoun County, Va., near Washington. Highland changed hands several times before it was donated to the College of William & Mary in 1974. |
| Over the last decade or so, some of the estate’s more colorful features have been altered. Peacocks that once strolled the grounds have been relegated to a pen, and a summertime opera company that invited the public to picnic and listen amid boxwoods has moved downtown to an air-conditioned theater. | Over the last decade or so, some of the estate’s more colorful features have been altered. Peacocks that once strolled the grounds have been relegated to a pen, and a summertime opera company that invited the public to picnic and listen amid boxwoods has moved downtown to an air-conditioned theater. |
| A frequent visitor, Carly Nicholson, said one of the greatest impressions from her visits was Monroe’s humble nature. “This is why we came today, because we wanted to see the transition of the story,” she said. | A frequent visitor, Carly Nicholson, said one of the greatest impressions from her visits was Monroe’s humble nature. “This is why we came today, because we wanted to see the transition of the story,” she said. |
| The days since the discovery have been very interesting, said Hugh Ames, a tour guide. “It’s so exciting, but you have to forget everything you learned,” he said. | The days since the discovery have been very interesting, said Hugh Ames, a tour guide. “It’s so exciting, but you have to forget everything you learned,” he said. |
| Ms. Bon-Harper said future projects could include rebuilding the mansion. | Ms. Bon-Harper said future projects could include rebuilding the mansion. |
| William Hosley, a Connecticut-based house museum consultant, called last month’s revelation an “occupational hazard” of preserving historic sites. “They’re all works in progress,” he said. “You’ve got to play the cards you’ve got.” | William Hosley, a Connecticut-based house museum consultant, called last month’s revelation an “occupational hazard” of preserving historic sites. “They’re all works in progress,” he said. “You’ve got to play the cards you’ve got.” |
| He said he relished his recent tour of Highland because of his guide’s verve and knowledge. “This business of history is about storytelling and authenticity,” Mr. Hosley said. “The assignment is to give people a great experience.” | He said he relished his recent tour of Highland because of his guide’s verve and knowledge. “This business of history is about storytelling and authenticity,” Mr. Hosley said. “The assignment is to give people a great experience.” |
| For Ms. Bon-Harper, this episode offers a chance to learn more about Monroe. | For Ms. Bon-Harper, this episode offers a chance to learn more about Monroe. |
| “The tour here is not about the wallpaper and the floor coverings, nor is it about Monroe’s biography. It is about the arc of human history,” she said. | “The tour here is not about the wallpaper and the floor coverings, nor is it about Monroe’s biography. It is about the arc of human history,” she said. |
| Monroe held more elected offices than any other president, she said, and went to France to negotiate the Louisiana Purchase. He declared the Western Hemisphere off-limits to European incursions. And he entered the presidency as a Revolutionary War hero carrying a bullet in his shoulder from the Battle of Trenton. | Monroe held more elected offices than any other president, she said, and went to France to negotiate the Louisiana Purchase. He declared the Western Hemisphere off-limits to European incursions. And he entered the presidency as a Revolutionary War hero carrying a bullet in his shoulder from the Battle of Trenton. |
| “But go into a bookstore,” Ms. Bon-Harper said. “There are more biographies of Marilyn Monroe than James Monroe.” | “But go into a bookstore,” Ms. Bon-Harper said. “There are more biographies of Marilyn Monroe than James Monroe.” |