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Benoît Violier, Top French-Swiss Chef, Dies at 44 Benoît Violier, Top French-Swiss Chef, Dies at 44
(about 2 hours later)
LONDON — The French-Swiss chef Benoît Violier, who scaled the heights of gastronomy to preside over a small Swiss restaurant that was named the best in the world in December, has died in what appears to have been a suicide, according to the police. He was 44. LONDON — Benoît Violier, the French-Swiss chef who scaled the heights of gastronomy to preside over a small Swiss restaurant that was named the best in the world in December, has died by what appears to have been suicide. He was 44.
The Swiss police said in a statement that Mr. Violier’s body was found late Sunday at his home in Crissier, Switzerland, near Lausanne. The Swiss police said in a statement that Mr. Violier’s body was found late Sunday at his home in Crissier, Switzerland, near Lausanne. “It would seem that he has ended his life with a firearm,” the statement said.
Mr. Violier, a perfectionist known for his acumen in cooking game, ran the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville with his wife, Brigitte. It has been awarded three Michelin stars and in December took the number one spot in La Liste, France’s ranking of 1,000 restaurants in 48 countries.Mr. Violier, a perfectionist known for his acumen in cooking game, ran the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville with his wife, Brigitte. It has been awarded three Michelin stars and in December took the number one spot in La Liste, France’s ranking of 1,000 restaurants in 48 countries.
The restaurant’s menu has included dishes such as “pigs trotters from the Jura with black truffles and glazed with Madeira wine,” roast Bresse chicken served with “Blue Winter” leeks and truffles, and a “fantasy of shellfish from the Saint-Brieuc Bay served raw in the shell on a delicate velouté.” The restaurant’s menu has included dishes like “pigs trotters from the Jura with black truffles and glazed with Madeira wine,” roast Bresse chicken served with “Blue Winter” leeks and truffles, and a “fantasy of shellfish from the Saint-Brieuc Bay served raw in the shell on a delicate velouté.”
The precise circumstances of Mr. Violier’s death remained unclear, but other top chefs have been pushed to suicide, buffeted by a high-pressure world that demands perfection and where culinary demigods can be demoted with the stroke of a pen.The precise circumstances of Mr. Violier’s death remained unclear, but other top chefs have been pushed to suicide, buffeted by a high-pressure world that demands perfection and where culinary demigods can be demoted with the stroke of a pen.
In 2003, Bernard Loiseau, the chef and owner of the Côte d’Or, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Burgundy, was found dead in his home at 52. In 2003, Bernard Loiseau, the chef and owner of the Côte d’Or, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Burgundy, was found dead in his home at 52. Last April, the chef Homaro Cantu, whose Chicago restaurant, Moto, had received a Michelin star, hanged himself. He was 38.
According to the French news media, the chef had been distraught over a slight demotion in the Gault & Millau guide and was worried that he could lose a star in the next edition of the Michelin guide. According to the French news media, Mr. Violier had been distraught over a slight demotion in the Gault & Millau guide, one of the world’s most influential arbiters of culinary excellence, and was worried that he could lose a star in the next edition of the Michelin guide.
Gabriel Waterhouse, a young and innovative British chef, who until recently was at Galvin La Chapelle, which has one Michelin star, said star chefs like Mr. Violier operated in an extremely competitive atmosphere, in which speaking about fears was taboo.Gabriel Waterhouse, a young and innovative British chef, who until recently was at Galvin La Chapelle, which has one Michelin star, said star chefs like Mr. Violier operated in an extremely competitive atmosphere, in which speaking about fears was taboo.
“People are quite macho in the industry, and people don’t feel they can really talk about their problems or the stresses of what is being asked of them,” he said.“People are quite macho in the industry, and people don’t feel they can really talk about their problems or the stresses of what is being asked of them,” he said.
“It is considered a sign of weakness if you complain,” he added, “and that is intensified the higher and higher you go.”“It is considered a sign of weakness if you complain,” he added, “and that is intensified the higher and higher you go.”
Mr. Violier was born in La Rochelle, a coastal city in western France, to a family of winemakers. In 2013, he was named chef of the year by the Gault & Millau guide, one of the world’s most influential arbiters of culinary excellence. Mr. Violier was born in La Rochelle, a coastal city in western France, to a family of winemakers. In 2013, the Gault & Millau guide named him chef of the year.
“It would seem that he has ended his life with a firearm,” the statement from the police said, adding that an investigation into the circumstances of his death had been opened. Out of respect for the family, the authorities said, no further statements would be made. Towering figures of French cuisine, like the chefs Paul Bocuse and Marc Veyrat, paid homage to Mr. Violier, some expressing shock and remarking on his culinary artistry, which had garnered him many followers.
Towering figures of French cuisine paid homage to Mr. Violier, remarking on his self-effacing character, his kindness and a rare artistry that garnered him a legion of followers.
One of France’s most celebrated chefs, the octogenarian Paul Bocuse, wrote on Twitter that Mr. Violier had been a “great chef, great man, a gigantic talent.”
“The planet has been orphaned by the loss of this exceptional chef, Benoît Violier. I am devastated,” another renowned French chef, Marc Veyrat, wrote on Twitter.
The Michelin guide released its list of starred restaurants in France for 2016 on Monday, and although Mr. Violier’s establishment is in Switzerland, he had been planning to attend a ceremony in Paris for the new rankings, according to the Swiss news media. Instead, the proceedings began with a minute of silence for him.The Michelin guide released its list of starred restaurants in France for 2016 on Monday, and although Mr. Violier’s establishment is in Switzerland, he had been planning to attend a ceremony in Paris for the new rankings, according to the Swiss news media. Instead, the proceedings began with a minute of silence for him.
“We are shocked by the death of Benoît Violier, a chef of immense talent,” the Michelin guides said on Twitter. “Our thoughts are with his family and his colleagues.” Patricia Zizza, who has worked by Mr. Bocuse’s side for 40 years and has known some of the world’s greatest chefs, including Mr. Violier, said the expectation of creating a masterwork every day could push some chefs to depression and exhaustion.
Patricia Zizza, who has worked by Mr. Bocuse’s side for 40 years and has known some of the world’s greatest chefs, including Mr. Violier, said that leading chefs were under intense pressure and that the expectation of creating a masterwork every day could push some to depression and exhaustion. “Chefs are in the theater and must produce great work, and there is strong pressure to maintain that excellence,” Ms. Zizza said. “It requires an enormous amount of attention, from assuring the quality of the products to directing teams of people. And it entails many sacrifices, including to one’s personal life.”
“Every day, chefs are in the theater and must produce great work, and there is strong pressure to maintain that excellence,” Ms. Zizza said. “It requires an enormous amount of attention, from assuring the quality of the products to directing teams of people. And it entails many sacrifices, including to one’s personal life.” Ms. Zizza said Mr. Violier had been shaken by the death last year of his mentor, the Swiss chef Philippe Rochat, who died after falling ill while cycling. Mr. Violier and his wife began running the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville in 2012, after Mr. Rochat retired. Information about his other survivors was not immediately available.
She said it was possible that Mr. Violier’s success at a young age had weighed on him, although she noted his exceptional calm under pressure.
“He was very calm and mastered every situation. He was young to be in his position and have such success,” Ms. Zizza said. “Being on top of La Liste no doubt put a lot of pressure. When someone says you are the best today, you have to be the best tomorrow.”
Ms. Zizza said Mr. Violier had been particularly shaken by the death last year of his mentor, the Swiss chef Philippe Rochat, who died after falling ill while cycling. Mr. Violier and his wife began running the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville in 2012, after Mr. Rochat retired.
When Mr. Violier was awarded the top place in La Liste’s ranking in December, he responded with characteristic modesty.When Mr. Violier was awarded the top place in La Liste’s ranking in December, he responded with characteristic modesty.
“I feel a heavy responsibility to be named number one,” he said in an interview with The New York Times published in December. He added that the key to his success was consistency, not flashiness, and he singled out his loyal team, including Louis Villeneuve, his maître d’hôtel who has been in his post for four decades. “I feel a heavy responsibility to be named number one,” he said in an interview with The New York Times. He added that the key to his success was consistency, not flashiness, and he singled out his loyal team, including Louis Villeneuve, his maître d’hôtel, who has been in his post for four decades.
“This ranking is a recognition of seriousness, of delivering the same fidelity and level of excellence from the beginning of January to the end of December,” Mr. Violier said. “It’s a great tribute to the team.”“This ranking is a recognition of seriousness, of delivering the same fidelity and level of excellence from the beginning of January to the end of December,” Mr. Violier said. “It’s a great tribute to the team.”
The French Foreign Ministry commissioned La Liste, apparently as a response to the London-based World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The British rankings were criticized by some in France for failing to give French restaurants their rightful due, but other members of the culinary establishment have said they regard the alternative effort as misguided. The French Foreign Ministry commissioned La Liste, apparently as a response to the London-based World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The British rankings were criticized by some in France for failing to give French restaurants their due, but other members of the culinary establishment have said that they regard the alternative effort as misguided.