Holiday time in the Argentine capital

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By Daniel Schweimler BBC News, Argentina

The flash-floods in the Argentine capital, Buenos Aires, may mark the beginning of the end of another burning summer. The city seems to grind to a halt at this time of year and life is full of inconveniences for the sweaty few who cannot escape to the seaside.

Argentina's city dwellers tend to head for the coast in the summer

The ice-cream parlours are still open and doing a roaring trade.

And there is a semblance of life at the banks and post offices, although they are working summer hours and the employees will head for the cool of home as soon as the boss's back is turned.

The other day, the family and I headed to our favourite restaurant, only to find the shutters down and a signed taped up saying: "Closed for the holidays. Back in March."

It is a similar story all over the city. You want your shoes repaired? Wait until March.

You need an electrician? He is on the beach.

And the builders we had doing some work on our house disappeared in January and have been out of contact ever since - we must have been paying them far too much!

Former President Juan Peron... attracted the support of the workers in the 1940s and 1950s by giving them long vacations

The Argentine legal system closes down in January, bad news for those prisoners awaiting trial, and the acquittal they are sure the judge cannot fail to grant them.

On hold

At least they can be comforted that their lawyers will return to represent them tanned and rested.

Buenos Aires streets have been flooded and more rain is forecast

A friend of mine could not get confirmation that she was pregnant with the couple's first, long-awaited baby since her doctor - along with anyone who might have been able to stand in for him - was away.

And if you have not had your car serviced and repaired by December, forget it. If you can find a mechanic still working, he will not be able to find the parts.

Police officers are transferred from Buenos Aires to the Atlantic coast to guard holiday homes and deal with rowdy youngsters at the resort discos.

News from the capital pretty much dries up.

The new President, Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner, has done little since taking over in December.

One of her main meetings was with the visiting president of the African state of Equatorial Guinea.

No disrespect to the former Spanish colony with a much-maligned human rights record, but it was hardly the kind of reunion to stir the world of international relations.

When a cruise ship full of gay passengers docked in Buenos Aires, they were startled to find a bank of cameras greeting them and then following them to the city's bars and restaurants.

"We've stopped in many places," said one passenger, "but we've never been such big news before."

Pity the reporters

So the journalists too are sent to the coast.

It may sound like a dream job - trousers rolled up to the knees, transmitting daily reports from the beach - but it is a tough challenge trying to fill 24-hour news channels with stories about an increase in the price of ice-cream and traffic jams on the roads to the beach.

Wealthier sun-seekers head for... the posh people's resort of Punta del Este in Uruguay

"And now to our correspondent in Mar de Ajo. Juan, what can you tell us?"

"Well, Maria, another hot day, the beaches are filling up and I believe there's a volleyball tournament scheduled for later this afternoon."

It reached a low point the other day with a TV report on a surfing dog which filled at least 10 minutes of air time and was repeated constantly.

Only the dog did not really surf, he sort of stood on a piece of wood in the water!

One prominent union leader holds an annual barbeque at his holiday home to plan strategy for the year ahead knowing that, if he holds the meeting in Buenos Aires, few will attend and the sandwiches will go to waste.

The only places to find the customary bustle and noise of Buenos Aires are the airports and the major bus terminal, Retiro.

Every hour, hundreds of sleek, double-decker coaches queue up to leave for the coast, packed with impatient passengers, poking one another with their fishing rods and spades and trying to control the over-excited children and grandparents.

Popular move

The former President, Juan Domingo Peron, is partly responsible for this Argentine passion for their holidays.

One of the ways he attracted the support of the workers in the 1940s and 1950s was by giving them long vacations.

Holiday camps were set up and beach resorts were developed along the Atlantic coast to cater for all pockets and social classes.

Later and wealthier sun-seekers headed for Brazil and the posh people's resort of Punta del Este, in Uruguay.

And with subsequent economic crises, one of the things the workers were loathe to give up was their precious weeks on the coast, a veritable orgy of sun-tan lotion, beach football and barbequed meat.

The school holidays run from the middle of December to the beginning of March, which is a frighteningly long time to keep the kids entertained - especially when temperatures in downtown Buenos Aires have soared.

School resumes shortly and there are hints that normal life is returning to Buenos Aires.

Sun-tanned and sunburnt holiday-makers are slinking back and the rattle of metal shutters being lifted so that business can reopen is beginning to disturb the tranquillity of the waking city.

However, before Buenos Aires returns to its normal frenetic hustle and bustle, I will try to grab a couple of days at the beach myself.

And, if I do come across that surfing dog, rest assured you will be the first to know.

From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 1 March, 2008 at 1130 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the <a class="inlineText" href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/3187926.stm">programme schedules </a> for World Service transmission times.